mikaleda

Nope switch has to be replaced it is a sealed unit I am just going to deal with it and see what happens

I'm getting a code twelve wich is the open and closed side of the drivers side switch are off. I'm not exactly sure what that is supposed to mean. I'm guessing that means my drivers side switch is probably starting to corrode and is causin the seat belts to get a bad connection, wich would cause them to do their little morning dance. I am going to have to pull the switch and see if I can clean it and see if that fixes it.

Found it the diagnostic plug for the seat belts is under the steering wheel on the right hand side the connector looks like this You have to pull the plastic cover off that is marked tray and it will be close to the radio side I hope this helps anybody looking for this plug

I pulled my glove box and the tray cover under the steering wheel and I still can't find that stupid diagnostic connector anywhere. But I did find a cut wire behind my glove box I know the pic is blurry but the best I can do. the wire is gray two piece wire looks like speaker wire I'm not sure what it goes to but looks like a fresh break

I finally managed to find a thread that talks about a diagnostic for the seat belt system here http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=3251 But not sure where this connecter would be at

I have done a search already but I couldn't quite find anything that matches the problems I have been having. Lately when it is cold out side the first couple times I open my drivers side door my seat belt will act weird it will move down the rail but will start going slow and kind of jump around only on the drivers side though. After I open and close the door a couple times it will start working properly. Another thing that I have noticed is when I am driving down the road my seat belt warning light will start blinking randomly. I have tried pluging in both lap belts and shoulder belts but no matter what it will start blinking. I am thinking relays are the culprit for the sholder belt problem, I know they are behind the glove box but I am not sure how to get at them. I am not too worried about the Seat belt light so much but I thought it might be a sighn that something else might be wrong other than relays. Any help would be appreciated especially about how to get to the seat belt relays I can't find anything about them except that they are behind the glove box somewhere

The nice thing about beldin is if they do fail napa has to replace them for free

Lol what does a caterpillar even smell like? I would check around the engine compartment for a pack rat nest

I totally missed the part about #2 well having oil that is probably culprit, as fairtax4me said oil could have compromised #2 wire

Beldins are napa lifetime wires I use them in all my subies they usually work well. I would do a visual inspection of the knock sensor and see if it is cracked and check the ohms reading on it to sometimes they corrode on the bottom and cause it to malfunction

If your c.v is what is making that noise rebooting probably wont work. Empi makes new c.v.'s for right around 80 bucks they work good.

The only way to properly clean it and not have problems later on down the road is to pull the tank and clean it properly and when done you want to re line the inside of the tank so it won't rust out again. This can all be done fairly easily other than pulling the tank. To clean all the rust out pull the tank drain it put in some fresh gas and a couple hand fulls of ball bearings and rock the tank back and forth on all sides the ball bearings will knock the rust loose. Drain the tank and rinse with more fresh gas. Then to reline tank go to the parts store and get some tank sealer it is a liquid that you coat the inside of the tank with let dry and re install

Well it took a 100 mile trip on the highway four hundred miles after I changed the cap for it to over heat again. I have bought new head gaskets (felpro perma torque) will be tearing into my engine as soon as I get my intake and exaust manifold gaskets. I have heard that when you use the perma tourqe head gaskets that it is not necessary to do the retorque sequence, is that true? I don't want to have to do these again. Also I am going to use GD's write up on DIY head resurfacing before installing new head gaskets

I don't think parts stores test for ac ripple because I had an alternator go out and had the parts store test it, they said it was fine but ended up being a bad diode in the alternator

Cool I learned something new

Agreed :-p

+1 I did this on accident when I was changing my oil pan I forgot to hook up the idle motor hose. It did exactly that easy enough to look over accidentally

Of course you can't use rtv on exaust gaskets duh I have sealed several oil pumps with ultra copper no incidents it is actually what my parts store listed for the oil pump gasket. New gen cars are made to use rtv on the oil pan but old gen arn't you have to use a cork or rubber gasket. And I am talking about oil pump not the thin metal valve covers or oil pans, and as we are talking about subarus I have never seen a Subaru with a timing chain.

Rtv copper is some of the best stuff on the market I use it on a lot of stuff. Actually I have used rtv with paper gaskets never had a problem. Also if you use rtv copper you don't need the paper gasket

This is in the old usrm http://www.indysworld.com/80s/general/USRM/mick-usrm/heatercore/heatercore.html It is a way to replace heater core without pulling the dash. This is for the ea81 body style. I'm not sure if it would work for you but it would be worth looking into

Good write up. I just thought i would say that when I do it I throw away the paper gasket and just use gasoline kerosene resistant rtv silicone that will keep it from developing the drip again

Shifter being hard to move when it is cold is normal in any car I have ever had gear oil gets really thick when cold

Check and make sure it is not the heat shields on the exaust rattling my legacy rattles under load. First time I heard it I thought something came loose crawled under it and it was just the heat shield over the cat converter.

Yes defiantly don't want it to tight that will end up burning your throw out bearing up. As for the pedal I don't see why a bolt wouldn't work.

+1 I just saw a car yesterday sitting in the local mechanics shop they had broken Tie rod and lower ball joint not a pretty site