mikaleda

If it is the heater core you can smell the anti freeze also you could take a hose and have an assistant run water around the windshield gasket to find out if it is a windshield leak

I know Chevy is like that when coolant temp sensor goes out but I have no idea about Subaru temp sensors

Nope I know that my top hats are fine I was thinking control arm bushing

My two bluebaroos Left is 1980 gl 4wd right is 90 legacy awd

I have exactly the same problems you are describing I thought the clunk was something else till now I've replace struts ball joints a hub a c.v. I have a ripped boot on my rack and pinion but on the other side. I think it might be a bushing but I still haven't pulled it apart

There should be a way of testing it with the computer and I would check your codes before you buy any parts. you don't need a code reader there are two plugs you connect and it will flash you the code

+1 on empi

Finished progect on the front end and it looks a little better

I like this idea the best just because it doesn't require any specialized tools or knowledge and would be simple enough that anyone could do it.

I like the grease zerk idea

This is interesting I will try some of these ideas out but since this is going to be my daily driver for a while, I will have to find a replacement control arm swap them out and experiment with my old one. Btw what year range should I look for in replacement control arms, I know it would have to be in the eightys and would it have to be a 4wd? Also is there any other things I should look for?

I'm ok with eletrical but not enough to mess around in my alternator. I want it to be flawless especially since I got my center lamp working I will be usuing that a lot

I take all my alternators to the only shop within at least fifty miles he has been doing alternators and starters for over twenty years they come back with a better warranty than napa and i have never had any problems. Actually it will probably cost the same as at napa it usually does

I was going to wrap the whole thing but I used really nice wire that lasts for a long time it's got a thicker wrap around it, I figured that way if I have to I have access to single wires also

Fixed my center light I had make a whole new wiring harness here's some pics

I probably should mention my passenger side headlight is busted in the back, the one that is in there is decrotive

It works!!! I had to make a wiring harness all the way from the light to the switch I repurposed the endes of the old harness they are good I checked the connections and for corrosion. I wired the switch like this http://www.indysworld.com/80s/general/USRM/3rdEye/center-lamp.html Pics below Harness I reused the ends off the old harness I used the power source from the old switch for temporary I will reuse the plug later I used sensor safe rtv to seal the solder conections on the motor The rubber plug I used to go through the firewall I ran the harness through the driver side strut tower Around the charcoal canister (don't worry it still fits right) Ends on the drivers side if the radiator and meets the plug on the light it self

I was kinda thinking the same thing but was worried it would weaken the metal.

Well new voltage regulator in and it didn't fix the problem, so time to rebuild the alternator. I have started wireing a new wiring harnes that will go to a dpdt switch I will post pics later I need to get more wire to finish.

Well the voltage regulator made the voltage go up a little but it must be a bad alternator. I am going to have to talk to the parts house that tested my alternator this really is ticking me off. So I am going to have the alternator rebuilt.

Dang, unfortunately the only one I know of I had to use in another car. I'll try my local machine shop they are pretty good hopefully they can do it.

Does anyone have tips on how to get the bushing out of the control arm on the old subies 1980 4wd wagon to be exact I know I need to replace mine it is wearing my tire weird badly. I don't have acces to a press is there any other way to change them

Well I messed with it all night and it ended up being the wireing harness so I am going to wire in a dpdt switch. I think the problem was also the colors changed on mine once it got up to the relay, green/ white turned to green/ blue and red turned to green/ red.

Motor defiantly works. Ok I went out and wired in a dpdt switch like this http://www.indysworld.com/80s/general/USRM/3rdEye/center-lamp.html The lamp turns on but the lid doesn't open. So I ran 12 volts to the Motor and it spun the lid open, when I switched it to the off position the lid closed. So I am thinking that the relay is not the problem since the switch did the same thing. Does anyone know what could be causing this?

I was thinking the same thing defiantly don't want it corroding again. Update: well I plugged in my newly rewired light and the light came on but the door didn't move. I think the relay is the culprit, I think when they tried to turn the light on after it was seized it probably fried that part of the relay. I am going to buy one of those dpdt relays and wire it in.