mikaleda

Lol I helped my mom drive home her $600 legacy and all the struts were just gone like that one. I had a fun drive home

I use wix I'm not worried lol

In my experience they were a little long and hard to install without damaging them, I ended up going o.e.m. I never got the universal to work correctly

Cool paint job on the non photo shoped one.

Back fire and hard to start cold could be to do with choke As for the rest I am guessing in what you mean I think you said coil is good and it sounds like you have one of you air suction valve pipes cut??? I'm not sure No fuel regular? Do you mean you don't run regular octane level? No solden? I'm at a complete loss sorry

Coolant temp sensor has a lot to do with idle IMHO I would start there

Toe in will not cause the problems I am having I already thought about that I will get a pic of my car sitting on flat ground you can clearly see that it is caster camber problems. Yes caster camber is non adjustable on this year and it would mean bent or broken suspension parts I have checked the toe in other than the tire sitting to one side it is fine it is hard to tell though because of how badly it sits This car was abused badly I have worked on the previous owners vehicles they tended to bash this side up more, the under carriage on this side is also in worse shape than the other on p.o.'s cars. i cannot find any bent suspension parts though. i guess the steering rack could be part of the problem the toe in could be fine going straight but not when turning. but tires sitting straight toe in fine the tire leans badly inwards and it feels like i have a really bad ball joint on that side when i am driving (the one on this side is new and the one on the other side is fine i have checked both) that is why i suspected the bushing

8k!!? Thats way to much IMHO like previous people say 2,000-2,500 is about what a car like that is worth

Okay now we're cookin with gas. Heat it up and spray some pb on it an let it sit. The heat will allow the pb to soak in or you can use accitone/ATF mixture as well. And the thread I linked to still has suggestions that can help you even though it is not the same thing some of the tips will work for any two prices of metal that are stuck together. As for a way to clamp it I don't see how other than a good vise Good luck I hope this helps Edit maybe put the nut and a large washer on the end of the stub and use that for something to grab onto just don't mess the threads up

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There is only two ends to an axle I have covered both I don't know what you are talking about this is why I asked for a pic. Whatever figure it out yourself

Yes I have had this problem but your description was lacking,you need a puller Put pressure on the axle and beat on the end of the puller with a BFH that will help a lot

Yep the thread is called "stuck rear axle cup" I posted in that thread as well. If it is the doj cup that is stuck then heat up the cup itself and use even striking force on all sides hope this helps Edit: here is a link to the thread I believe northwet is talking about, the one I mentioned above http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=139022

I'm not sure what you are talking about from your discription it sounds like its stuck where the axle comes through the hub? The part about the stub shaft and the roll pin makes it sound like the doj cup is what is stuck though. Best thing for stuck axles is what you are doing, if you can put heat on it before you start hitting it that would probably help make sure to heat up the outside only that makes the metal expand and easier to break it loose. If you post up a pic I can probably give you a better idea of what to do.

IMHO That sounds more like a voltage regulator than the alternator. Take you alt to napa they can bench test it for free that will tell you if it is your alternator or not, good luck!

Ok here's my dilemma this is my passenger side tire I have been having caster camber problems with this side of the car since I got it. It has new strut, ball joint, good wheel bearings, and Tyrod end on this side. When it is sitting on flat ground you can see this tire leaning out. So I finally got around to pulling out my lower A frame to check the bushing this is what I found The other parts are fine not bent or anything. Is this bad enough to be causing this bad of a caster camber problem? Normally I would just replace it and see what happens but I am very low on funds and neither of my cars are running at the moment so it's not so easy.

IMHO I would spray some white lithium spray grease in the tracks and see what happens. Subaru makes a pretty stout electric window. I've seen legacys with 300k with original electric windows they were slow but they still worked

Okay this what I am planning on doing. I am going to be very broke for a while (insurance renewal this month $$$ ) so this project is going to start moving slowly. I am going to keep going with the delco remy alternator. So first I am going to start wiring new 100 amp fuse for the alt and get a better setup for the fusible link. Next I will be trying to find a good cs130 or cs121 cheap that works and get it wired in properly. I know it doesn't sound like much, but unfortunately I have no car at the moment as well as no Money. I will post updates as I get parts installed.

Well I am going to start working on my fusible links they are pretty bad:dead: I'm going to put an actual fusible link box

Pics from when I pulled the front end apart I forgot about these pics I just found them

Cool I just found this http://store.alternatorparts.com/7130-cs130-series-iceberg-finned-alternator-upgrade-kit.aspx Upgrade kit for cs130 $52 and some change (and whatever shipping is:grin:) but for the price I think I will get this upgrade and rebuild the alt. then I will have a 105 amp alt. Edit: it doesn't come with voltage regulator but this kit does http://store.alternatorparts.com/cs130-series-iceberg-finned-self-exciting-alternator-upgrade-kit.aspx And it comes with a self igniter voltage regulator and at that point I could truly run a one wire setup

Also this alternator can be hooked up by just the L wire going to the charge light but it is not optimal it's better to connect the sense wire so it can control voltage output better wich isn't that hard to do so i will be doing that

I have to agree with you gd I might just do that If I can find one. Also ferox you are right s is sensor wire p is stator all info needed for wiring is here http://alternatorparts.com/cs130_sbpage2.htm

Actually I said stater not starter and I did reaserch this the s goes to solid power and the L goes to the charge light that's it the rest is unnecessary on the plug that is I'm running new heavy gauge wire to battery positive through a new fuse something that will hold up to this alternator and the s connection can be connected to this wire as well and the alt can be run this way but I am going to run a charge light as well L is for the dash indicator light that is what I consider a charge light Also this alt has a four prong plug and a stud that connects to battery positive so that is five connections

Well I started a thread in the retrofitting forum and got some good help and did a little research and found some info on how to hook up my alternator now I just need to get a two wire plug and get the alt fixed and I will be good to go :banana::banana: I accidentally fried it the first time I tried to wire it:dead: