mikaleda

Ha! I knew it Sam wise was a brat

I don't realy like the way the doors open that looks like the first thing that will have problems. Other than the doors though the design is cool and the hybrid technology sounds good. Not that I will ever be able to afford one though

Look for an inline fuse that is fairly common with aftermarket stero systems especially on the 12v consatant

It looks almost exactly the same as the one in my 80 but its numbered differently

IMHO I would go with the dealer but make sure they change the waterpump at the same time. $1200 for a timing belt change is ridiculous

I know this may sound dumb but maybe as a last resort try running some extra chassis grounding maybe it just isn't getting a good enough ground.

Okay I thought I would post an update my step dad decided to drive it as long as it is working normally again temp gauge still reads just below half but doesn't move on regular road driving it only seems to have a problem when it is being pushed hard. I am almost %100 sure of a bad radiator but its not my car so he is probably just going to drive it till it gives him problems again. I know it's not head gaskets yet, I know all about 2.2 head gasket leaks since I just got through this with my legacy.

Okay I read a little about your problem on nasioc and you said this happened after you changed the oil, you drive it in there fine but after the oil change it wouldn't start. Imho I would check your dash gauge temp sensor and make sure that's not grounding out on something, I don't necessarily think that would make your car not work but it does kinda sound like something somewhere is causing a short. Next I would check all connections going through the firewall and make sure nothing is shorting out there. Other than that I would verify the ECM is getting the correct amount of power

It's a 98 outback, I found your post in nasioc

I really know very little about Nissan, but what I would guess is a grounding problem to the ecu is a likely culprit. Another thing to check for might be main grounding off of the battery itself and maybe check power at the fuse/relay box.

Okay I ordered new rear wheel bearings for both sides $75 a peice plus $10 a peice for seals and I Called the closest stealership an they quoted me for $14 a peice for the cone washers that are bad up front and I still haven't found a steering rack yet

Bump

It just depends on if I back it into its spot or if I drive it forward there is defiantly slack on the left side. It got to do the steering wheel dance to get it to go down the road straight. More about my problems here http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/136146-80-gl-suspension-problems/ and in my build thread Sorry, not trying to hijack your thread uberoo

Now that is a story I would love to hear

I onced fixed a brat that had sat for a few years when I fired it up it started melting the emissions controls (good thing it was weberized) until I revved it up and blew a rats neat out of the muffler

It had a ripped boot when I got it and it probably didn't help that I went up to the rocker panels in mud when I first got it, but ya if you turn it all the way to the left it binds and I can see that I have excessive toe out.

Yep I agree about gm after 70's they were junk for the most part (that's why I got a subaru). I'm fairly sure that the front end is the steering rack. A new rack and new rear wheel bearings an it will be my Daily driver

I swear I am cursed with project cars that never run right. My first truck was a 67 Chevy and it had a blown head gasket twice, then i got a cadillac sevile that had a bunch of sensor problems, then I bought a 93 Buick with a bad trans, then I had a Suzuki sameri for two years that finally lost its trans, then i got my legacy wich has a blown head gasket, then my gl that has tons of problems. None of those cars were ment to be project cars but they all turned into one

Nice write up, lots of pics and well written. :cool:

No kidding!

Just a thought but maybe check the main power supply coming into and out of your main fuse/realy box it may have a bad wire not letting enough power to get to your ignition system to work properly.

Well the p.o. Screwed me over yet again I can't get any parts from him at all :mad: this has made everything a whole lot harder now it is going to take quite a bit longer to get this car going now.

Well that was giagantic waste of time. When I first got this car the p.o. Told me he had a parts car I could come and get parts off of. Well long story short he wouldn't let go of any parts not even the fusible link box or headlight bucket that he doesn't have any use for that will fit my car. I'm really not sure what I'm going to do now this has just tripled what it is going to cost me to fix this car now.

Well I'm not sure why that happened could someone please fix that^ Never mind I fixed it

I'm not sure what you mean. I'm just guessing at this point but is that the reason for the fluctuation of temps after it overheated?