Frank B

Sounds like the plug is missing the gasket/washer. I ran into this years ago on a then girlfriends car, the last dope under it didn't install the thin alunimum(or copper) washer and the damn thing siezed right up. I had to take it to a shop so they could get it up on the lift to get leverage. I recommend either a pipe wrench with a cheater pipe, or drill out the center of it and tap it for a piggy back plug untill you can get it out.

I pulled a secondary cooling fan from a jeep cherokee for a past project. It's only 14" and real thin. If you have a junkyard close by the jeep fan would be a good choice.

The secondary venturi opens as the engine load requires it, not really at a certain speed. When you push the throttle down, do you feel a bit of a hard spot about half way? That's the secondary linkage ingaging. It will start to open mechanically about half throttle. When that happens it creates a vacuum signal and if the engine needs it, it will open up. You really need to disassemble the carb to clean it correctly. Use a Subaru rebuid kit if possible, many of the kits you can get at a parts store are crap. If you have the money, buy a reconditioned carb. http://www.nationalcarburetors.com/cat-subaru.html I have one from them on my hatch and it's awesome!! This may work too, http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Carburetor-1985-1988-Subaru-2-4-Wheel-Drv-1800-Eng_W0QQitemZ170101790248QQihZ007QQcategoryZ33550QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem Change the tranny fluid and filter too, I like the Mercon V fluid. Also the front differential gear oil. Replace the vacuum modulator too while your at it.

So no aftermarket head gaskets are up to snuff? Good to know, but sad.

Yes, follow the FSM at all costs. Why did you test between the coil and the battery?? Did you check the coil with it disconnected? When was the last time new plug wires, plugs, oxygen sensor and fuel filter was replaced? Add a few ground wires to the engine too. One from block to body, one from intake manifold to body, and one from exhaust(near O2) to body. Is the firing order correct? Check the timing with the green connectors connected like the FSM states. Clean the MAF(when cold) with electrical contact cleaner. Have you checked the fault codes" What did you get? I've had a bad TPS, MAF, CTS, distributor pickup(optical whatever), O2, etc and always had a fault code. Oh, and welcome to Subaru FI .

Well I drove it to work today (68 miles) and this little carb is great! The only adjustment I've had to make is to turn the idle down a half turn. But this morning when I got to work, then tonight when I got home, it wouldn't idle for nothing, turns out the egr valve is sticking open. I disconnected it and capped the vacuum port untill I can get around to cleaning it up, again.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&ih=010&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWN%3AIT&viewitem=&item=200095168936&rd=1&rd=1 All new internals, re-bushed shafts, it's nice. I couldn't resist even though I was in the middle of a Weber(Holley 5200) swap. I'll hold off on the swap for now. I don't have time to fiddle with it now anyway. I got lucky and had a free hour to put this on today! In the rain...... Oh, and I must share this, DO NOT use Autozone carb rebuild kits. I did on the stock carb just months ago and the rubber bits like the boot on the acceleration pump was all cracked and had splits in it leaking fuel!!!

They may want to look at the opposite side for the problem. But it sounds like a complete cleaning, bleeding, and re-greasing is in order.

The lower slide bolt is a 12mm head. The caliper mounting bolts are 17mm head. The you need to TURN the caliper piston back in to reset it for new pads.

From what I've read here on the board, you'll have to remove the nuts on the engine mounts, and jack up the engine. I think you'll have to remove the pitch stopper on top two. Just take a good look at how it's set(count the turns, etc). Then it's still a pain since there are baffles inside the pan that get hung up on the pick-up tube. But I have never done one so............

I just looked at mine and the ports for the feedback lines are the 90 degree ones, one front, one back. Just cap them and your good.

That diaphram on the back is for the choke. So as long as the choke works, don't worry about the second one that you will have. You may also have a feedback carb(86). It has air line connections on the sides of the carb leading to the emulsion tubes. One is above the two vacuum connections for the EGR and Distributor, the other is just opposite on the flip side. Cap them.

Sounds like the starter solenoid. It may be best just to replace the starter, since the solenoid is part of the assembly.

Both EA81 engines? If so i would say yes. The EA82 carb is bigger and will not bolt up to an EA81, EA71 manifold.

Probably something like this, http://better-mileage.com/products.html I want to make one, but I suck at such things :-\ . I hope Dylan does reply, I'd like to know what year Neon can get 50 mpg.

Pumping the brake creates a mock vacuum leak. The power booster uses engine vacuum to create the boost. The A/C has a solonoid on the throttle that opens it up , and bumps up the idle when the AC is on. It does that so the engine has a touch more power to turn the AC compressor, and that more coolant and air is flowing to keep everything cool. TPS first, then check for vacuum leaks.

You won't notice any difference with alloys, I put some on a GL-10 I had and they were only 1 pound lighter than the steel wheels. Still no difference. I doubt you'll notice any difference with the brakes either. Those rear drums are so little and light that they may weigh the same as rotors. All that air under the hood exits under the car. If you put openings in the rear of the hood(cowl area), you may get a cowl induction effect and more air will come in from there instead of thru the radiator, causing the car to overheat. Spfi is a good idea. You'll get the same mileage as a well tuned, and perfect stock carb. But we all no that a well tuned perfect hitachi carb is a myth! They need constant attention. The underside of the car is the least aerodynamic. An air dam and side skirts would make a big difference. So will lowering the car. Also, if your state allows it, remove the right side mirror. Also remove the roof rack if it has one. And any other junk that will smooth out the air flow over the body. Other than that, drive slow.

Yup, that's about normal.

Whats good oil pressure?? What I mean is what is the guage reading at start up, then after it's up to operating temp? SeaFoam should be left in the oil. Some say it will evaporate over time but I'm not sure. I put it in and leave it. Same with Marvels but just 16 oz's, not a quart. An additive will help but only if the tick is from gunked up lifters. If one or two trestments of cleaner in the oil doesn't help, then move on to replacing or re-sealing the oil pump as mentioned before.

Thanks, I do plan on using the sensors from the ea81 manifold. But I'm also going to try to keep the EGR and air suction valve operational. This is a weekend only thing so it will be a while before I get it all done.

Well that's my point.

So what. Are you too good to repeat yourself to help other board members? Try doing a search for weber tuning, or weber set-up, or weber anything, the results are mind boggling. I have done several weber related searches and still can not find the answers I was looking for. I did find them on the web. If it's a topic that is that popular, it should be a sticky, or in an FAQ archive.

I like this one........ http://www.redlineweber.com/html/Tech/carburetor_set_up_and_lean_best_.htm

Go throught the A/F mixture and idle set up procedures listed in the links I posted and see what that will do for you. If it still does it, play with the timing. Advance 2 degrees, run it a while to see how it runs. If it still does it, retard it 2 degrees and try it again.

Also, for those that have the EA82 intake on the EA81, did you hook up the EGR? It looks like the pipe will have to be modified, and the EGR valve itself may hit the pitch stopper. I'll find out when I get it on the block I guess. Oh, I used a small grinding and a sanding wheel on my Dremel to clean up all the areas that I used the JB Weld to give it some fresh metal to bond to. And a small wire wheel in the Dremel to clean up the gasket surfaces. Worked like a charm!