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Read on CARS101.COM to compare the Legacy versions and for the Outback versions.

2004 Forester XT 180K - NEWLY rebuilt engine, w/new CTS (water temp), plugs, wires, new front AFR / O2 sensor... When cold, car runs poorly - stumbles and hesitates for 1st 1-2 minutes 'til it warms up. No CEL. It's worse w/colder weather we've had the the last week - mid 30's F. It did this BEFORE the Rebuild and After. And it does it on the Stock tune, a Cobb OTS tune, and a Custom -online- tune. Leads me to believe it's an 'Open Loop' issue in the ECU's programming? The front O2 sensor is new - Not the rear, but since they're not used until it gets to Closed Loop, they shouldn't matter? I'm not sure what to log on the Cobb AP but guessing that's a place to start. Thanks for any feedback. Td

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Hi, Similar EJ255 engine as in my '04 Forester, which I just had rebuilt @ 180K. #4 cylinder is a common failure point as the piston ringlands crack and require replacment - doesn't require a rebuild, but lots of labor. As stated, check the DOHC timing belt - actually EXPECT to change it @ 115K, unless it's documented. Might show up on the Carfax/Autocheck the dealer can run for you. The turbos have a propensity to go @ around 150K. I've read numerous thread about the TD04 and VF40s blowing seals well before 200K - Go read up on SubaruOutback.org. If it IS 'beat' then I'd be weary that's it not been maintained - but more depends on how the car looks/runs. If you can determine that the car is unmolested/stock, you might give it a go; I personally will no longer buy a used, modded, turbo car - of any brand....FWIW. GL, TD

This will help w/the pinout on the ECU plugs - HERE. GL, Td

Yes, this is an almost 3 year old thread, but I came across it today, & I decided to close it. (Since I can't update the original...Why?? Every other forum allows it.) I bought a used cluster w/the Tach (Brightons don't have one) and the Speedometer, and it had almost the same Odometer (w/in 5k) reading. IIRC it was out of another Legacy L/LS vs. an OB/LSi/GT. I think those might be geared differently since the rear final drive ratio is different?? Still working fine after swapping it out, and it was a pretty easy job, too. Thanks Td

Axiom, This is called 'hijacking' the thread-it's not related to Topic. Please Search and then start a new thread if needed. Also, this thread was 2 years old when you replied initially.....so you may not get a response from the OP (original poster). TD

I'd ask LMDEW or mdjdc as they have Forester parts. Also, post/look over on subaruforester.org. The '98 was an 'odd' year as it had the EJ25D engine and other differences, but was basically the same 'til the '03 model upgrade, minus a few cosmetic differences in '01 - CARS101.com. Don't forget you should be able to use an Impreza CS, too. TD

^ They'll all bolt in, but they'll fit different. I had '02 WRX seats in my '90 Legacy and they were too tall and forward on the Passenger side - if that matters. But fit OK on the Driver's side, since I could lower them. The '90-'04 Legacy/OB/GT should all interchange, and I believe thru 2007 for the Impreza/Forester. Not sure about the '05+Legacy/outback. I've read mixed reviews on the newer Legacy seats, so might do some reading on here. Depending on $$ you could take your seats to a upholstery shop and get 'em fixed up. Td

Hi, You'll get more info over on SubaruForester.org - look up the 'how to turn better than an STI' HERE. I realize you want the reverse but it'll give you some ideas of an 'in between' option. If you like the ride/handling you have now you'll not want a stock setup. I think the stock XT struts w/Swift springs are a popular option. As noted, you could get something like THESE from Paranoid to give you a bit of lift w/what you have. I'd pull a tire and check the P/N's on the struts & springs (if they're labeled). You likely have something other than the stock XT struts - I don't think they can go that low. HERE is my former '98 Forester riding WRX Struts w/ STi springs on 225-50-16's....a little bit more room than yours. I now have an '04 FXT, too, w/the same suspension setup as my '98 SF- no pics yet. GL, TD

Subaru used to publish that info in the Owner's Manuals, but my '98 Forester did not have it....the FSM should have it if you can find one online. Td

Look @ the bottom of this page and you'll see a list of Similar Threads. A couple may be relevant now that we have your trans ID. Also, go to OpposedForces.com, click the Subaru Parts catalog link, select your Model>>Year>>etc and it shows the similiar part #'s under the AT info HERE. For Legacy Outback 2.5: TZ102Z2ABA '94, November — '96, June TZ102Z2CBA '95, December — '97, July TZ102Z2DBA '96, July — '98, May TZ1A2ZJEBA '97, October — '99, May For Legacy GT 2.5: TZ102Z2AAA '94, November — '96, June TZ102Z2CCA '95, December — '97, July TZ102Z2DCA '96, July — '98, May TZ1A2ZJEAA '97, October — '99, May For a Forester '98-'02 : TZ103ZJ1AA '96, November — '98, June TZ1A3ZC2AA '98, March — '99, June TZ1A3ZC2AA '99, April — '99, December TZ1A3ZC2AA '99, September — '01, February TZ1A3ZC3AA '00, December — '02, February Looks like a Legacy GT....they had smaller/shorter tires 195/60-15 (in '96) vs. the 205/70-15 on the OB , and I'd bet the ratios in the trans are different - I know the 5th gear ratio in the 5-speeds on the OB is different than the GT, to make up for the taller tires??. TD

HI, Please check the DATE on the post; this is 3+years old. Usually anything more than a couple weeks old is no longer active. TD

Google found THIS. The motor has a 'parking switch' that returns the wiper. I would guess that's 'bad' based on the link. I'd grab one from the wrecking yard/pull-n-save. I don't hear/read of them failing often. This LINK states it's an easy repair. GL, Td

Hi, I can't justify a $500 part for a car worth 2-3 times that, so suggesting you go to 'car-part.com' and do a search. You'll find many options and most will ship for a reasonable cost, too. Also, no offense to Gloyale (his posts have helped me many times), but in addition to being longer, the '95+ also use different bolt spacing on the flange that connects to the rear differential. The extra length is on the front half of the drive-line; the back half is the same (IIRC when I did my 5-speed swap and tried to use a newer drive shaft). And after '92, the drive line/drive shaft was 2 pieces. GL, Td

Hi, If you have a few links to these threads I'd be interested to read them --I'm guessing you're referring to the SOHC, since there was no USDM DOHC 'til the '96 EJ25 and the SOHC and DOHC are not interchangeable - @ least on the Phase 1 ('90-98) EJ-series engines. To answer you question about swapping, yes the SOHC intake manifolds (IM) should swap, but be aware of minor differences, as the newer models had EGR on some models and I'm not sure the brackets for the older AC/Alt/PS are compatible w/the newer IM. And make sure you get the fuel rails and injectors w/the newer IM as I'm not sure they're compatible..should be though. GL, Td

HI, Actually, and NO OFFENSE to the USMB, you'll get more info on turbo swaps @ RS25.com (the '98 Impreza RS has the same EJ25D as your OB) and on Legacy Central BBs. I've also seen a couple of turbo'd OB's on the http://www.subaruoutback.org/ site. FWIW, I swapped an EJ22T in my '98 Forester - also the same stock EJ25D engine as your OB. If you're bored read my THREAD HERE on the subaruforester.org site. I reused the DOHC heads from the Forester, which meant I could use the same intake manifold and wiring harness and it was plug-n-play w/the stock OBD2 wiring. I then put in a Greddy Emanage piggy-back to run bigger injectors and manage the boost, but couldn't get it tuned (tried 2 different tuners!). The biggest drawback to the '95-99 USDM Subarus is the lack of ECU support. There was nothing for my '98 Forester. That's why I had to try the piggy-back w/the stock OBD2 system. I also did a swap on a '90 Legacy non-turbo that I swapped w/a EJ22T and did an AT>>5-speed swap. Having the complete donor car helped a lot. On the OBD1 Legacys I only had to swap cam/crank sensors, add 6 wires for the stock turbo sensors and plug in the turbo ECU...too bad it's not that easy going between the OBD2 and OBD1! :-) My .02: If you're going back to OBD1, I'd suggest the Rob Tuned EJ20G The TD04 won't make 250-300 @ the wheels (WHP) - from my experience - even w/the EJ20 heads and a megasquirt. You'll likely need a VF39 or bigger turbo to get there. But 200 WHP should be attainable. Although I've done the above swaps I've not done the OBD1<>OBD2 wiring. I do know the ECUs use different plugs/connectors so you'll have a fair amount of splicing and what have you if you plan on running the EJ22T ECU and putting in its 4 plug ECU connectors. But most of the sensors and such on the intake manifold for the IAC, injectors, CTS, etc are the same. The TPS is different. The engine harness connectors come out the back on the OB; by the battery on the '89-94 Legacy. The Legacy TBE should work on your OB as is... may be a little short. I don't 'think' the DP will connect as is to the OB exhaust, but didn't go that route on my swaps. I also ran the NA radiator on my Legacy turbo swap and it never overheated- even @ Auto-X in summer heat. GL and have fun! You'll have the turbo-mod-bug soon enough! Td

Hi, What are you wanting to do? Just data log, reset CELs, or Reflash/change data in the ECU? The ROMRAIDER site will give you some info on that. It uses the $$ Tactrix cable...although the 'Vag com' cable might work...not sure on that. I also used the VAG-Com cable on my 2004 Forester XT w/the Free SSM software. And I tried the ELM327 OBD-II OBD2 USB cable on my '98 Forester, but it was flaky....meaning it would connect but wouldn't stay connected. There were multiple software programs that would work w/the cable, but not well on my '98...so I returned it. GL, Td

I don't see where you tried the FWD fuse. It'll tell you whether it's mechanical or electrical. Changing the Duty C won't fix your issue if it's mechanical. Unless you're looking to make it like new, which is overkill, IMHO, I'd just do as suggested and get another rear housing and fix it or fix yours as noted, replace the Duty C, install a new gasket or 2 (?) and put it back together. Or just put the FWD fuse in and drive it (if it's mechanical). Here are all the parts you may need-double-check against your VIN: GL, TD

Based on your symptoms, I'd lean toward either the Duty C solenoid or the rear transfer clutches/output hub. The Duty C can be diagnosed by using the FWD fuse under the hood on pass. side. With the fuse in shudder should go away, which means the Duty C is working. No difference w/fuse you'll need to replace Duty C. If the shudder goes away it's a mechanical issue and you'll need to look @ R&R of the rear transfer clutches/output hub. THIS POST and ThIS POST are some of the better ones on the issue. TD

Hi, Try the procedure for reading codes HERE....note there are instructions for Exisiting and Previous codes. An Autozone/parts store may be able to read the codes for you - for free - too. And depending on the # of miles are you due for a ATF refresh? Generally on here, @ least, it's recommended to NOT get a flush as it can makes things worse. Just drain/refill/drive 3X to get the new tranny fluid in and the old out. GL, Td

<<Hijack>> Please explaing the 'steering' button/switch and dash light's function? Thanks, Td

Pull the clip off the injector (squeeze it and carefully wiggle and pull), and there are two pins to test across. See above for my 'edit'. TD

Edit: O2 sensor's do fail on these. The front one is the main one to worry about. The O2 is only used in 'closed-loop' after the car is warmed-up and @ light-medium throttle. The CTS/temp sensor can also cause poor performance/MPG/etc. I'd also check for a bad/leaking fuel injector now that you mention the fuel smell. It would also explain the MPG drop, i believe. -Resistance test on the injectors should be ~12 ohms, IIRC. -One of the smart guys can tell you how to check/test for a leaking injector. TD

Sir, No disrespect, but your info is incorrect. The EJ25D was avl. in '96 on the Automatic transmission cars only OB/GT/LSi - it had the HLA-valve heads and made 155hp/140torque. In '97+ they went w/the shim/bucket adj. valve heads and made 165/162. The '96 OB 5-speeds still had the EJ22e. Wiki: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Subaru_EJ_engine and Cars101: http://www.cars101.com/subaru/outback/outback1996.html Td