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I swapped in another engine* to my '90 Legacy and it ran well for a day. I drove to work fine and then @ lunch, it cranks and cranks, and finally runs, but idles rough. It smells of fuel after it starts, too. If I turn it off and restart it immediately it starts right up, but if it sits for a couple of hours it's back to the same issue of needing to crank excessively before it'll run. NO CELs. My initial guess is I have a fuel flooding issue, but where do I look? If it's one or more leaking injectors, is that an 'bad injector' or an issue w/the fuel rail, fuel pressure regulator (FPR), fuel filter, fuel pump or ??? Thanks! TD * The engine is an EJ22T (turbo) w/bigger injectors and turbo. I'm running a tuned ECU desiged for the injectors, and as stated, it ran fine when initially installed but just started 'acting stupid' yesterday.

Hi, For others that might be interested, this is sounds like the 'Power Mode' switch mod for the 1st Gen Legacys. It keeps the trans in Power mode all the time (except when the cruise control is engaged). On the '89-94 models it 'lights up' the Power light on the dash for Automatics when the TCU/ECU senses a rapid application of the throttle. I've read that the '95 - '9? models have the same feature, but no light. BUT, this appears to only work on the '92+ Legacys...didn't work on my '90 or '91, until I swapped in a '93 TCU. My install notes: 1. Disconnected TCU's B46/Pin4, connected B46/Pin4 to Ground -Result - POWER Light in D, 3, 2 and Cruise Control still worked! TCU pinout HERE. Notes: -When CC is engaged, the POWER light goes out. Hit the brake, and it comes back on (My '90 didn't come w/a Cancel option on the CC lever). - RPMS @ 70 are same as before @ about- 2750. So I think the TC/OD are working correctly, too. Td

You don't say what year Legacy, but the OB's had dual-piston calipers w/10.7" (?) rotors from ~'96-'00. These will fit under the 15" rims. The '01/'02/'03+ OB/WRX/Forester used the dual-piston calipers w/11.4" rotors, and yes- you'll need the mounting brackets, but they work perfect on my '90 Legacy....you'll also need @ least 16" rims to clear 'em. p.s. make sure you know the exact year if you get the 11.4" version..there were multiple versions installed by Subaru during the '02-03 period, @ least on the WRX, so getting the correct pads depends on the year. GL, Td

We replaced the clutch disk and pressure plate and the issue is fixed. I couldn't see any issues w/the old parts, but not sure what to look for. The pedal also was better - came back quicker and more normal engagement- was what I was told by the driver. Thanks for the replies. GD- Looks like 5-speed is back for sale....unless I do a 5-speed swap into my turbo wagon.

I just (last 1/2 hour) thought of that, too....and I can't be sure we bothered to check...we'll verify when we check the PP. I read about them bending/breaking, so I had a new OEM just in case. We did inspect the fork and it looked fine. Thanks

PITA= Pain in the Arse :-) Not sure what you're asking....but when I installed the engine back in March I had a lot of trouble getting the engine/trans to come together. I probably forced something I shouldn't have and damaged one of the clutch components. Thanks, TD

As far as I know it's correct. It was working fine up until the last couple of weeks, and the shop that turned it was pretty sharp - they'd done a lot of Subaru FWs. Thanks, Td

Subaru PowerTrain warranty - engine and transmission - is for 5 yrs/60K last I checked......so you may not be out of warranty yet...just the bumper-to-bumper. Td

Edit: It was the Pressure plate and/or clutch disk. 1998 Forester 'S', 167K miles. Question: How can I diagnose if the clutch's Pressure Plate is bad vs. the transmission itself? Issue: Starting about 2 weeks ago, car won't shift into 1st or Reverse easily. Usually have to turn off car. Sometimes going into 2nd then into 1st, or into 4th then into Reverse works. Car shifts OK into 2-5 gears. On advice we replaced the Slave and Master cylinders as there was a TSB on the Slave cylinder. Didn't help. Edit: Put in Subaru Extra-S fluid <3K miles ago. We pulled the engine (w/2 people it went quickly), and I noticed the Tranquil sleeve kit TO bearing looked bad so we replaced it along w/the pilot bearing, which looked fine. TO bearing: Here's what a new Tranquil bearing should look like (on the left): After reinstallation (smoothest install ever!) it was a bit better for a few shifts but quickly returned to the same condition. -Took it to the shop and they re-bled the master/slave cylinders which didn't help. They stated it appears the clutch fork is moving properly, just not fully disengaging the clutch. So they're leaning towards the PP vs. the transmission. History: -July '10, during a turbo project, a freshly (properly) turned FW and new clutch/PP/TO(tranquil)/pilot bearing all installed. Shifted and drove fine for about 2K miles, 'til I gave up on turbo project (due to tuning issues). -In March '11 original engine w/new HG's installed. All the same clutch pieces reused - but I had a hell of a time getting the engine installed. Once installed seemed to shift/drive fine 'til 2 weeks ago. But due to the PITA install I'm thinking I messed up something...... Thanks for your time! Td

The '98 OB is a Push-style clutch (affects the clutch/flywheel/pressure-plate type) and uses a hydraulic actuation. I 'think' all EJ25/2.5 used this type, since it was on my '98 Forester and used on a '97 Legacy GT that I know of. I know the '96 OB w/the 2.2 and 5-speed was Cable actuated, FWIW. The FD ratio should be 4.11 on the OB. I've read that this version/generation of 5-speed is strong enough to handle 300HP; I know mine was still good for the brief period my Forester was close to 250HP. Td

The dealer has the latest version and P/N. Subarugenuineparts.com has good prices. GL, TD

I'd caution on using the '99 specs as it's the Phase 2 2.2, based on what I've read. Likely the same but be aware. GL, TD

From THIS POST: can i exclude this sensor ? Yes. Wire a 100-ohm 2-watt resistor between the ECU's purge control pin and an ignition-switched +12v source. GL, Td

The Delta cams are another $200 last I checked, so if this is a 'budget build' I can see why not. HERE'S a link from NASIOC, and there are many more - search on Frankenstine or Frankenstein and such, for more info than you may have time to read! GL, TD

Hi, Do you have the steering wheel lever, too? I'm wondering if the 'roll connector/clock spring' is the same? There may be a different switch actuated by the brake pedal that turns off the Cruise too....if the cruise controller doesn't see that the cruise may not work. Also, you don't have AC or power windows, correct? If you do then something 'just ain't right'. Looking on cars101.com the 'Value Plus' package included cruise/AC/PW. Td

The '95 OB had wider tires and bigger rims (cars101.com) - 195/60R-15 vs. the L's 185/70R-14, but they are essentially the same height so the speedo would be the same, if both are still 'stock'. Are they both on stock tires??? They should have the same transmission, too, as JC pointed out. The '96-99 OB ran the taller 205/70R-15, and had the 4.44 FD ratio in the 4EAT/4.11 in the 5-speed. I don't know about the 'stamping'....sometime in '94/'95?? Subaru stopped putting the ratio on the rear diff, like this one from the '80's:

HI, Sounds like you're doing it correctly, but this LINK from the cars101.com may have some hints about programming. GL, Td

As stated, double-check or have a shop make sure nothing else is worn out. I recommend new struts w/STi springs. Great combo: Firm but not pogo like full STi takesoffs. You can just grab some springs and struts off NASIOC, or get the struts new, take 'em to a shop to swap out for you if you don't want to deal w/the spring compressor, etc. But these are not adjustable...you'll want to do some research b4 you pull the trigger if you want to consider coilovers, etc. for AutoX. ENSURE you get the right strut for your year, as the '02-03 were different (and sedan is different from wagon) than the '04+, from my research. There is a great 'sticky' on NASIOC HERE. Look online for 'how to installs' as this is not tough, but you'l want to see what you're getting into. GL, Td

My '90 has/had this issue. I'd have to push/pull/push the stalk to get the Hi-beams to work. Do you get Hi-beams if you pull the switch toward you for the 'flash-to-pass' feature? If so, then it's likely in the stalk like mine. Mine seems to be working again, for now, but I don't drive much where I need them, so it's not something I'm going to worry about fixing. TD

The JECS 22680AA160 and AUTECS 22680A160F are interchangeble and used on the USDM NA Legacy/Impreza/Forester- 2.2 and 2.5 - from '89-98 ('99 for the Legacy). I have used them both on my cars successfully. I've read the MAF-specific cleaner isn't as harsh and is a lower pressure spray??? So it doesn't damage the element, I'd guess?

As 'Brus' points out, the Cat Conv. could be causing you issues and the O2 sensor code. But I'd check the KS for cracks (common problem). GL, TD

^ +1 I'd also try swapping the TCU. A '92-94 will be a direct replacement. Td

It's been stated on here many times to use OEM plugs/wires, so maybe worth a shot....esp. since it worked for 2 weeks...me thinks the Bosch just didn't like their new home. Try some NGK plugs, and let us know. GL, Td

Hi, If you buy a NEW or even a 2-3 year old NA Impreza, and put on a turbo kit, say GOOD-BYE to your warranty. If that's not an issue, they you may as well just buy a WRX or STi. :-) P.s. That cheaper insurance may also do you no good when they find it you modified it. TD

^Yeah, All Legacy/Outback/Impreza/WRX/Baja/Forester from '91-2009 (@ least) that are 15" or bigger wheels will fit. The 16" 215/60R-16 from older Foresters are the same height as the stock 205/70R-15's on your OB, FWIW. The only ones to avoid are SVX/'05+ STI/Tribeca, which are all the 5x114.3 bolt pattern. GL, Td