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HI, Actually, and NO OFFENSE to the USMB, you'll get more info on turbo swaps @ RS25.com (the '98 Impreza RS has the same EJ25D as your OB) and on Legacy Central BBs. I've also seen a couple of turbo'd OB's on the http://www.subaruoutback.org/ site. FWIW, I swapped an EJ22T in my '98 Forester - also the same stock EJ25D engine as your OB. If you're bored read my THREAD HERE on the subaruforester.org site. I reused the DOHC heads from the Forester, which meant I could use the same intake manifold and wiring harness and it was plug-n-play w/the stock OBD2 wiring. I then put in a Greddy Emanage piggy-back to run bigger injectors and manage the boost, but couldn't get it tuned (tried 2 different tuners!). The biggest drawback to the '95-99 USDM Subarus is the lack of ECU support. There was nothing for my '98 Forester. That's why I had to try the piggy-back w/the stock OBD2 system. I also did a swap on a '90 Legacy non-turbo that I swapped w/a EJ22T and did an AT>>5-speed swap. Having the complete donor car helped a lot. On the OBD1 Legacys I only had to swap cam/crank sensors, add 6 wires for the stock turbo sensors and plug in the turbo ECU...too bad it's not that easy going between the OBD2 and OBD1! :-) My .02: If you're going back to OBD1, I'd suggest the Rob Tuned EJ20G The TD04 won't make 250-300 @ the wheels (WHP) - from my experience - even w/the EJ20 heads and a megasquirt. You'll likely need a VF39 or bigger turbo to get there. But 200 WHP should be attainable. Although I've done the above swaps I've not done the OBD1<>OBD2 wiring. I do know the ECUs use different plugs/connectors so you'll have a fair amount of splicing and what have you if you plan on running the EJ22T ECU and putting in its 4 plug ECU connectors. But most of the sensors and such on the intake manifold for the IAC, injectors, CTS, etc are the same. The TPS is different. The engine harness connectors come out the back on the OB; by the battery on the '89-94 Legacy. The Legacy TBE should work on your OB as is... may be a little short. I don't 'think' the DP will connect as is to the OB exhaust, but didn't go that route on my swaps. I also ran the NA radiator on my Legacy turbo swap and it never overheated- even @ Auto-X in summer heat. GL and have fun! You'll have the turbo-mod-bug soon enough! Td

Hi, What are you wanting to do? Just data log, reset CELs, or Reflash/change data in the ECU? The ROMRAIDER site will give you some info on that. It uses the $$ Tactrix cable...although the 'Vag com' cable might work...not sure on that. I also used the VAG-Com cable on my 2004 Forester XT w/the Free SSM software. And I tried the ELM327 OBD-II OBD2 USB cable on my '98 Forester, but it was flaky....meaning it would connect but wouldn't stay connected. There were multiple software programs that would work w/the cable, but not well on my '98...so I returned it. GL, Td

I don't see where you tried the FWD fuse. It'll tell you whether it's mechanical or electrical. Changing the Duty C won't fix your issue if it's mechanical. Unless you're looking to make it like new, which is overkill, IMHO, I'd just do as suggested and get another rear housing and fix it or fix yours as noted, replace the Duty C, install a new gasket or 2 (?) and put it back together. Or just put the FWD fuse in and drive it (if it's mechanical). Here are all the parts you may need-double-check against your VIN: GL, TD

Based on your symptoms, I'd lean toward either the Duty C solenoid or the rear transfer clutches/output hub. The Duty C can be diagnosed by using the FWD fuse under the hood on pass. side. With the fuse in shudder should go away, which means the Duty C is working. No difference w/fuse you'll need to replace Duty C. If the shudder goes away it's a mechanical issue and you'll need to look @ R&R of the rear transfer clutches/output hub. THIS POST and ThIS POST are some of the better ones on the issue. TD

Hi, Try the procedure for reading codes HERE....note there are instructions for Exisiting and Previous codes. An Autozone/parts store may be able to read the codes for you - for free - too. And depending on the # of miles are you due for a ATF refresh? Generally on here, @ least, it's recommended to NOT get a flush as it can makes things worse. Just drain/refill/drive 3X to get the new tranny fluid in and the old out. GL, Td

<<Hijack>> Please explaing the 'steering' button/switch and dash light's function? Thanks, Td

Pull the clip off the injector (squeeze it and carefully wiggle and pull), and there are two pins to test across. See above for my 'edit'. TD

Edit: O2 sensor's do fail on these. The front one is the main one to worry about. The O2 is only used in 'closed-loop' after the car is warmed-up and @ light-medium throttle. The CTS/temp sensor can also cause poor performance/MPG/etc. I'd also check for a bad/leaking fuel injector now that you mention the fuel smell. It would also explain the MPG drop, i believe. -Resistance test on the injectors should be ~12 ohms, IIRC. -One of the smart guys can tell you how to check/test for a leaking injector. TD

Sir, No disrespect, but your info is incorrect. The EJ25D was avl. in '96 on the Automatic transmission cars only OB/GT/LSi - it had the HLA-valve heads and made 155hp/140torque. In '97+ they went w/the shim/bucket adj. valve heads and made 165/162. The '96 OB 5-speeds still had the EJ22e. Wiki: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Subaru_EJ_engine and Cars101: http://www.cars101.com/subaru/outback/outback1996.html Td

Hi, Just to clarify, the only thing you changed since it was getting 23 mpg - is the trans, correct? (You only replaced the two seals.) It was getting 23 after the HG job? And when you "swapped trans-end sections" you used the '96's? Foresters didn't come out 'til '98, but according to 'opposedforces.com' (choose your model and it's listed under Train) both are 4.44, so that shouldn't be an issue. Wondering if the final gear ratios (?) are a bit different (I've read the Outback 5-speed is different than the Forester's - maybe the 4EAT is, too)...although you stated the speedo is still correct. I looked in a '98 Forester Owner's Manual but didn't see the actual ratios...Subaru used to show that info in the older models' manuals. And since you're in San Diego, do you have 'winter gas' down there, too? Last (only?) idea...if you can get a TCU from the Forester, it may help. Maybe the TC isn't locking up properly? GL, Td

Cool...live and learn. Thanks Td

Local CL ad has a 1990 Subaru 4WD RS 2 door. Looks like an RX to me. It's not a turbo model. After I specifically asked, the owner re-states it's an RS not an RX. And wouldn't it be a 'Loyale' - 1990 was the 1st year using that name? http://spokane.craigslist.org/cto/2760941534.html Pictures on CL aren't good enough to make out the lettering on the car. I was only aware of the RS being applied to the Legacy/Liberty RS avl. overseas in the early 90's. Then applied to the '98+ Impreza. Thanks, Td

Short or long block? I didn't pay so don't know the cost but used a double-walled box and lots of bubble wrap to ship a short block to FL. TD

HI, Welcome to the USMB. Please check the dates as this thread is 2+ years old. Td

Hi, In addition to the above, if you pull the engine- depending on if it's an AT or 5-speed, ensure you disconnect the flexplate from the TC 1st. - Cam (front and rear) and crank seals, reseal rear separator (or get updated new part and bolts), MAYBE the rear main (don't touch if not leaking!), oil pump O-ring, valve covers, new oil sender, and read up on here for other stuff. -FWD and AWD are not the same when it comes to suspension and CV axles, among other things, so make sure you get FWD parts or double-check they're compatible. - The headlights do suck on the '90-91 Legacy and there aren't any really good upgrade options....@ least from my looking for my '90 wagon. Make sure you remove the yellowing/clouding, which usually helps some. GL, Td

Be sure to use MAF cleaner from what I've read...sure you have too. Nothing too strong either in chemical strength or pressure...that 'hot wire' is fragile. By intake I'm guessing you mean air and not the intake manifold.....this POST shows where it is and how to do it...wow..PITA! For the IAC, just remove the hose, which you'll have off anyway to get to the CTS - Right?? :-) - and spray some brake cleaner or other non-residue type cleaner. Look HERE on LC BBS for info. And a on removing it to clean it properly....the valve on the back - where it attaches - is what gets gummed up, I believe. GL, Td

Hi, Yes...on the CTS and I'd also considering cleaning IAC and the MAF. GL, Td

Hi, Just to clarify as I don't see the year of the 2.2 listed.... The y-pipe is only needed on '96+ 2.2 as they were single-port exhaust. '95 EJ22 was also dual-port like the EJ25. And for the EGR in your case it's a non-issue. As far as I've read, ALL EJ25s - 5-speed and AT - have EGR. For the EJ22s it's hit-or-miss, but generally the ATs all do and some 5-speeds. If your 2.2 did NOT have EGR you'd get a CEL and I don't think a work-around has been figured out other than tapping the head/exhaust and IM to 'make your own'. I've not read whether swapping ECUs from a non-EGR car would work to avoid the CEL? BTW, your '98 OB's ECU will run the 2.2....no need to swap it out. GL, Td

Hi, Sounds like THIS that happened on my '96 Brighton. Was a broken CV axle. GL, Td

Hi, Is the AT Temp light flashing when 1st turned on? If so, there's a code stored that can be read. Read codes from this POST - look for the PDF files....read thru all the pages on the Thread as their is 'how to' description on the 'diagnostic switch' on page 2. GL, Td

Read thru this POST about fixing torque bind/delayed AWD engagement. I had that issue on my '90 and used the info in the post to fix it. It shows/explains how to file down the notches/grooves so they don't cause the issue anymore. Notches (page 3 & 6 of the POST shows a "how to"): td

MotorWeek tested the '93 Touring Wagon turbo and '91 SS turbo 5-speed back in the day. Wagon (only came w/the 4EAT): 8.7 sec LINK (1:45) I'd guess the SS 4EAT would be a bit better as it's lighter?? SS-5speed: 8.0 sec. LINK (:58) Td

Do you replace the T-stat?? Td

Not stupid @ all....I shoulda/coulda clarified: If the system is full, then some fluid may spill out and don't bother filling. No place for it to go. :-) TD

Unfortunately, I also think it's the T-stat. Did you use OEM as recommended on here? The gauge on all my Subies never moves once to operating temp - the opening/closing of the Tstat never is really noticed on the gauge. Everett, WA doesn't get that cold, last I checked. I also think you have may still have air...but usually that'll cause an overheating issue, in my experience. To burp: Once it cools off, take off the rad cap and fill it with 50/50 til full. Then, undo the top rad hose from the Rad on the passenger side and using a funnel or what-have-you, fill it 'til you can start to see it in the hose attached to the engine (coolant cross over pipe). Reattach the hose. This has always ensured my system is full and w/out air. GL, Td