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Hi, Just to clarify as I don't see the year of the 2.2 listed.... The y-pipe is only needed on '96+ 2.2 as they were single-port exhaust. '95 EJ22 was also dual-port like the EJ25. And for the EGR in your case it's a non-issue. As far as I've read, ALL EJ25s - 5-speed and AT - have EGR. For the EJ22s it's hit-or-miss, but generally the ATs all do and some 5-speeds. If your 2.2 did NOT have EGR you'd get a CEL and I don't think a work-around has been figured out other than tapping the head/exhaust and IM to 'make your own'. I've not read whether swapping ECUs from a non-EGR car would work to avoid the CEL? BTW, your '98 OB's ECU will run the 2.2....no need to swap it out. GL, Td

Hi, Sounds like THIS that happened on my '96 Brighton. Was a broken CV axle. GL, Td

Hi, Is the AT Temp light flashing when 1st turned on? If so, there's a code stored that can be read. Read codes from this POST - look for the PDF files....read thru all the pages on the Thread as their is 'how to' description on the 'diagnostic switch' on page 2. GL, Td

Read thru this POST about fixing torque bind/delayed AWD engagement. I had that issue on my '90 and used the info in the post to fix it. It shows/explains how to file down the notches/grooves so they don't cause the issue anymore. Notches (page 3 & 6 of the POST shows a "how to"): td

MotorWeek tested the '93 Touring Wagon turbo and '91 SS turbo 5-speed back in the day. Wagon (only came w/the 4EAT): 8.7 sec LINK (1:45) I'd guess the SS 4EAT would be a bit better as it's lighter?? SS-5speed: 8.0 sec. LINK (:58) Td

Do you replace the T-stat?? Td

Not stupid @ all....I shoulda/coulda clarified: If the system is full, then some fluid may spill out and don't bother filling. No place for it to go. :-) TD

Unfortunately, I also think it's the T-stat. Did you use OEM as recommended on here? The gauge on all my Subies never moves once to operating temp - the opening/closing of the Tstat never is really noticed on the gauge. Everett, WA doesn't get that cold, last I checked. I also think you have may still have air...but usually that'll cause an overheating issue, in my experience. To burp: Once it cools off, take off the rad cap and fill it with 50/50 til full. Then, undo the top rad hose from the Rad on the passenger side and using a funnel or what-have-you, fill it 'til you can start to see it in the hose attached to the engine (coolant cross over pipe). Reattach the hose. This has always ensured my system is full and w/out air. GL, Td

What year is your car? Newer ones -'96?+ have both pumps on the tank under the hood on the driver's side strut tower. The older ones are in the back left in the cubby hole for the jack. TD

This is for OBD1, which may not match an OBD2 system. From Legacy Centrall BBS - How to Read Trouble Codes From the ECU: Code:22 Item: Knock sensor Diagnosis: Abnormal voltage produced in knock sensor monitor circuit Fail-Safe <limp> Operation: Sets in regular fuel map and retards ignition timing I don't know what 'sets in regular fuel map' means, but it does affect fueling. TD

On older OBD1 cars a bad KS would cause 'limp mode', but I'd think the car would run Rich not Lean, for safety. If you're over 100K the O2's may be due - should be 2. GL, TD

My car is turbocharged, so the 'too much pressure' makes sense - good catch. I'm redoing my PCV system tonight. I didn't put any sealant on the exposed side of the half-moon. I thought the VC (valve cover) gasket would seal that.....but I can 'see' where there might be leak point on each end of the half-moon if there's a gap where the gasket/VC/half-moon all come together. Thanks much for the feedback. Td

On the passenger side of my EJ25D heads, it's leaking from the lower half-moon on the back. When I put the heads on last year I re-used the half-moons, used that 'Seal-All' stuff:banghead:, and used a new valve cover gasket. It leaked shortly after that so I went back in w/NEW half-moons and the ultra-grey this time - used sparingly, w/the same VC gasket...... It's leaking again! WTH am I doing wrong?? I saw this POST , which sounds similar. Thanks, Td

Hi, I just did this swap on my '90. I used JoshC/Legacy777's post HERE - This includes some other stuff he did but covers the transmission swap well. Read the Electrical/Wiring stuff especially so the car will start. Besidese the USMB, http://bbs.legacycentral.org, NASIOC and RS25.com are all good resources for info and parts. From your list: Tranny - Your '91 is a 4.11 FD ratio, which should make it easier to find a donor. I used a '98 Forester. TRANS chart LINK. Any Legacy/Forester/Impreza should work up to 2000-ish that has the matching ratio. You can reuse your mechanical speedo cable -even on the newer ones. Just remove it, including the gear portion-not just the cable, from the AT and replace on the MT. Clutch/Press. Plate/FW/TO and pilot bearing -confirm whether you're using a Push or Pull style. You'll need the bolts for the PP>>FW. Flywheel - see above - You'll need the bolts to mount to the engine. The AT's flexplate bolts are too short. (Make sure you disconnect the TC before removing the trans.) Pedal Assm. - using a Cable clutch pedal box is much easier. The good news is your '91 should be pre-drilled if you go w/a hydraulic (hydro) clutch (the Turbo model had them in '91.) I used a cable clutch w/my '98, which was originally a hydro. Front Half of 5mt Driveline - Not sure about this. But a complete '95+ is too long. I ended up using the complete driveline from a '92, and changed the pinion flange on the '00 4.11 rear diff to match the older style. If you get a '95+ driveline the rear flange that mates to the rear diff won't fit your '91. Also, read this about the difference in drivelines between '90-91 and later models: Tranny Brace - I'd replace the bushings and get a new tranny mount. I used an Group N mount/Sti one and it's OK. Here's a pic of some of what I bought. I got most of this from a 'pull-n-save' - the axles are for the rear diff which isn't pictured: More parts: Possible Parts: TCU/Ecu - AT and MT ECUs are the same. You'll remove the TCU completely - 5speed doesn't have one. Additional notes: - All the holes are pre-drilled for the tranny mounts. Just remove the plastic/rubber covers. Parts you'll need/suggested: - shifter - recommend a WRX/Impreza RS There are two parts I replaced w/new; The rear mount for the shifter - underneath the car; and the shifter joint. -starter - MT not the same as AT. There is lot of interchange among years for starters. -plastic surrounding the shifter/shift boot/shift knob -clutch fork/release lever - must match clutch type - hydro or cable. -Pitch mount -clutch slave/master cyl. if going hydro. -cable mounts if cable clutch and new cable for the clutch - You can move the pivot ball if needed on the trans housing - see THIS-. -If you don't care about cruise or starter relay, you don't need the clutch pedal switches; brake switch should be the same as AT. -Cruise control computers are different for the MT vs. AT. Also there were 2 relays attached to my '90's AT computer - a main and inhibitor. Only the Main relay can be reused. The MT uses a clutch relay in place of the AT's inhibitor relay. I initially pulled a '92 and it only had the Main relay. I went back and found a '90 w/both relays to get my cruise working again....get the plug, too - the AT's inhibitor plug won't work in the clutch relay. GL , TD

EDIT: Impreza should be the same. Legacy/Outback probably same for that year range, too '97-99? I'd pull yours and get the P/N to look online...vs. year/model only. GL, Td

I wouldn't bother w/new....get a used one from Yard. They rarely fail from what I've (not) read. They usually can be returned if they don't fix it, too. Dealers are not so lenient on new electrical parts. GL, Td

and yet another tip :-)...don't expect the adjustment that works when stopped to be the same when @ speed....find the 'happy medium'. Oh, and careful when adjusting. The nozzle (it's a ball) can be adjusted completely closed...and hard to get back! (somedays I just hate 'experience'!) Td

According to cars101.com the '98-00 were the same; "The 2001 model was introduced early, in February 2000. The front end, rear end, dashboard, lower body cladding was all mildly redesigned, with new colors, cloth, and the introduction of a new top of the line S Premium model including side air-bags and a factory sunroof". This would include the '02. So you should be good to go, other than the color. The '03 was the next generation, and pretty much all new cosmetically. TD

Just checking: If your horn doesn't work and the Airbag light is on, your steering wheel's Clockspring is the culprit. Td

Hi, Sorry, those are pics I found online - not mine. The P/N's are listed...if you look close. I grabbed the pics from HERE - used in a VW conversion. They're from a '92 Legacy if that helps. TD

Hi, Just to add to the above.....all 'green label' JECS or AUTECS MAFs from '90-98 Subarus will work. Also, the '99 OB and GT should be the same as they were still on the older EJ25D. The '91-94 Hitachi MAFs used on the EJ22T turbo and '90-'91non-turbo 5-speed engines will not. TD

Hi, The rear 02 sensor should be the same/similar for reference. It's a different plug, IIRC, but should work? TD

Another reason is the rails from '90/'91 are physically different than the '92-94 so the 'red top' injectors won't work in the '90/'91 Rails, but any of those years' rails will fit the intake manifold (IM). Also, there are metal spacers that may be used on yours, they sit under the mounting tabs on the rails - they are shown below between the injectors/rail and IM. Sorry, but not sure what years use/need them: GL, Td

You'll be fine.... and GD is right (as usual!). I just remembered 'Why' I got the TSK3: I upgraded to a WRX FW/PP/Clutch when I did this. Sorry I forgot that detail earlier. Td

EDIT: TSK1 is correct. GL, Td