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1. Please clarify.. You stated: Is that: - turbo -pipes (exhaust??) - XS BOV - Pink Injectors Pink injectors are probably STi 565cc injectors, from an JDM STi (Called JDM since they were only avl. on Japanese Domestic Models). Even though WRX and STi's are built in Japan, cars have different components depending on where they are being sold - Japan, Australia, Europe, USA, etc. _____________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________ 2.How do you know it's a bigger turbo? Better off to buy a USED lower mileage TD04 from NASIOC or Ebay. GET A REAL SUBARU turbo - not a 'knock-off' or you'll likely be buying another one in less than 10K miles. Guess how I know??? You MUST get a TD04 to be stock.You cannot just swap turbos and expect the car to run correctly,unless you use the exact same model of turbo that's currently installed. _____________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________ 3. Also, if you do have something bigger on there now, it's VERY likely you'll need to get your ECU re-tuned. In other words, your ECU/Computer is setup to run the leaking turbo you have now, and will not run correctly w/a TD04. Do you know what kind of tune is on the car? There are Cobb Accessport, Opensource, and other possibilities. And they'll all cost money to tune, unless you have the knowledge to learn how to use RomRaider and flash (tune) it yourself. Do you know the previous owner??? Where did you buy the car??? IF you knew who/what/where/how/etc it'll save you a LOT of grief figuring out the tune on the car. GL, Td

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Hi, As mentioned in other posts, opposedforces.com is a great resource for this info. Yes, they are both 4.11. Choose your model>>Year>>Engine (choices can be a bit confusing)>>etc and under the TRAIN heading look for "Gear set-hypoid", which shows the FD ratio. Go back to Manual Transmission and choose the Trans Assembly category and under the Supplement heading you'll get the Trans ID which should match what is on your trans. I've noticed that many Trans ID's don't match between models, but the transmissions ARE interchangeable. And you can use a transmission from a '96 - 1999, as long is it's from an Outback/GT/LSi that had the 2.5 (the 2.2 used a 3.90, I believe). Newer models will work, too, but not sure on what years. In '99 Subaru went to the different bellhousing w/more bolt holes (w/the Phase 2 block), but the older trans will still bolt up just fine. BTW, I 'think' the 5th gear ratio on the Legacy OUTBACK model is different than the Forester. There is/was a Subaru transmission chart on the 'Net w/that info....5th on the Outback is higher RPM @ a given speed, IIRC. TD

Thanks GD and CNY. The missing clip makes sense - however I don't know 'where' this clip goes. Is it listed in this pic of the axle - maybe part of #15? There IS a metal band still on the rubber boot - it has the proprietary/OEM-style connector - like #7 above. I may just put back together and see how it holds w/a hose clamp? DIY LINK on RS25.com

2004 Forester 4EAT Auto trans. -Replacing front strut and when installing the new one the hub flopped outward and the rubber boot came off the inner CV joint and grease leaked out. -Can I just put some more grease back in, push it back on, put a hose clamp on it and run it? Or is it 'bad' since it came loose? Here is a pic of what came loose (not my car). The top piece -bearings - was pulled out of the bottom housing. Thanks, TD

Hi, As GD stated you need to match the turbo to what you have to ensure your tune still works. But for $150-200 you can't buy anything more than the original stock TD04 - over on NASIOC. VF39 and bigger are $300+. GL, TD

Hi, ***I found this LINK that states: I read that as meaning it can be added to an existing system?? If you buy the whole replacement/retrofit kit it will have the fittings and hose. They should also be avl. separately. IIRC, the R12 and R134a schrader valves are different sizes.....the kits may have both. GL, Td

Hi, My '00 OB had no EGR and neither did the '01 I swapped in (rod knock). Wikipedia states '00-'04 for the EJ251 - but I guess that doesn't mean it didn't have EGR. The EJ22 had EGR on the '95 Automatics but not on the Manuals...so..... EDIT: Just checked Opposedforces.com and it shows EGR on the '02+ - HERE. Pic of '00 w/out EGR: Pic of '02+ EGR: I've wondered about this swap - I've read on here the intake manifolds supposedly swap, so you could just use that if needed. Please let us know how this works out. GL, Td

It's going to be cheaper overall to change over to the R134a. There are multiple ways to do it - you can buy the kits @ most auto parts stores...but is probably bad for the environment and illegal (if you don't have it evacuated @ a shop); and taking to a shop to convert may be more $$ than the car is worth. Check CL for someone selling R12 - may get lucky. GL, Td

-Best 'bang for buck' is Cobb AP- about $400 each used (can't share between your cars, btw - it's 'married' to the car once a tune is applied). Cobb has OTS (off the shelf) maps that are free to download and install, but a Pro/Custom tune (~$300-500) will get you even more - this is all on the stock car. EDIT: Ensure you get the one for YOUR YEAR/MODEL. -Next, I'd get a Downpipe, which the Cobb can tune for. ($150 ebait>>$600 Cobb) -They both come stock w/the TD04, which is small. Both can benefit from a relatively easy upgrade to an STI VF39/43/48 turbo, and the AP can tune for those as well. ($350-500 - Used) -Intercooler- if you get a bigger turbo, you'll want more cool air. One issue is getting the correct scoop/splitter/diffuser to ensure the incoming air is getting to ALL of the bigger IC. ($200++) -Intake and Exhaust once you decide to get a bigger turbo, as the existing ones are good to @ least 250 WHEEL HP. (too many options to price) Yes, I know people like to get an exhaust and intake, but they're not the best bang for your buck....unless your 'ear-dyno' is more important than the 'butt-dyno'. And no offense to the USMB, but it's time to go Searching on subaruforester.org for the XT, and NASIOC for the WRX, if you haven't already. Just watch out on NASIOC...Search well b4 asking or you'll be wishing you had. I HIGHLY recommend reading Unabomber's Manifesto - it covers a TON of stuff related to your upgrades. GL, TD

That is some impressive mileage...I'd be feeling my age @ 364K miles/22 years old too. +1 on just replacing the whole TB. Does it idle poorly when started cold - after sitting overnight? If so, it's not the 02 sensor, IMHO, as I've read they don't do anything 'til the car is in closed-loop and @ operating temp. 1. I'd clean out the IAC - don't use WD-40 or something that will leave a residue. I think brake cleaner is best? POST on cleaning. 2. Also, clean the MAF sensor w/MAF-specific cleaner. 3. Coolant sensor, aka CTS - if it's giving faulty readings everything else the ECU controls will be messed up. Does it start OK when cold or crank more than usual? 4. O2 sensor 5. ECU could be bad...but unlikely. 6. Fuel pump GL, Td

Here ya go>>LINK

That one injector being unplugged and not changing anything is likely one good symptom....but can't help w/exact issue. Could be it's still drying out. Can you read CELs from the EJ22 ECU? Pull the codes? Until it all dries out, I think you're going to have issues. Besides the snorkel, do you have a full coverage skidplate or other means to prevent water/mud splashing from underneath? It sounds like fun, but water fording/mud bogging are going to get water/mud where 'they ain't 'sposed 2B' unless you've taken extra precautions. I drive a street-only Forester and have water/mud splater on the engine w/one missing little cover.....can't imagine how it'd be w/actually going off-road. GL and have fun tomorrow, TD

Hi, That error # points more to the Secondary Air Pump - P2444 is the Secondary Air Pump 1 Stuck On B1 - not an injector. I didn't read much of the Thread but this POST has some info, and I'd spend time searching on NASIOC anyway. Here's another WRX SITE Post. Also, I'd push the dealer to fix it as I read there's an 8 year/ 80K warranty on emissions stuff, which this should fall under depending on many miles you have on it. If you find it's either the pump or an injector you can buy used parts on NASIOC for your '06. A lot less than new. Also the Forester XT (and maybe Legacy) turbos use this pump. GL, Td

Knock sensor: Buy a used one if you've got a yard that sells parts nearby. Uncommon for the '95+ years to fail. Fuel filter: I'd change it. Not difficult technically, but those darned hoses are a pain to remove. Let the car sit overnight so there's little/no pressure on the fuel lines. Spark Plugs: The EJ25 should have platinum plugs, per the owner's manual, which are good for 60K. Pull one to check. If they're not NGK platinums nor NGK coppers, I'd change them to one of those. And 'ditto' on the wires - get the NGK brand. Your MPG should be closer to 20 around town; 27 highway, from my experience w/a couple different OBs. GL, Td

Hi, As stated do the flush/fill 3X to see if that helps and ensure it's Full. And try the Trans-X ATF stop leak. BTW, the ATF is a PITA to check, and make sure you fill in small amounts once it starts to show on the dipstick, as it takes only 1 pint to from Low to Full, from what I've read. For Subaru OEM prices, I recommend: 1: Jason Douglas jdouglas@mikescarffsubaru.com Mike Scarff Subaru of Auburn 3025 Auburn way north Auburn, WA 98002 1-866-456-3025 253-737-1345 Tell him your from the Subaru forum for best pricing. 2. http://www.subarugenuineparts.com/ I read where Jamie is back. If she is, then this site also has good prices and service. GL, Td

Hi, I had a '90 Legacy. I had '93 LS, '97 OB and '02 WRX seats in mine. Even newer seats may work...should be post on here somewhere. The OB seats worked the best and have the up/down adjustment, and if you're handy some were heated -(both the cloth and leather versions) and can be retrofitted to work. The WRX Driver's seat was OK and was well-bolsterd to hold the driver in place, but the passenger seat sat too high and forward- it mounted up fine but something is a bit different between how the Impreza/WRX/Forester and Legacy seats fit. Any of the seats tend to wear on the outside edge by the door, so hopefully you can 'test fit' them in the original car. If not, compare/push down/squeeze the inside to outside to ensure they're similar.....not fun to swap seats and find out the seats are no good! TD

He stated he had the L w/the 15" so, he'll be good to go......and you'll need the mounting bracket for the calipers, if that's not obvious. List: mounting brackets calipers w/pads rotors/discs brake fluid ? TD

Yep...let me know. Thanks, Td

HI, It's been awhile since I did this repair, but I didn't bleed anything. Just put it back together and was good to go. The parking pawl mentioned above is a pain...ensure you note how it comes out! Thanks, TD

Hi check out this POST on cars101.com. The '90-99 EJ22 (?) Legacy L models had the 10.2" single-piston front disc and 10.5" rear. (Brighton had rear drum and NO ABS)....w/either 14" (L) or 15" (LS, LSi-<'96) wheels/rims. Any of the '96-99 EJ25D/2.5 (OB, GT, LSi) and Turbo (Sport Sedan/Touring Wagon) models had the larger 10.5" dual-piston front disc and 10.5" rear disc (vented rear on the turbo models)....and had 15" or 16" (GT) wheels. The Forester had the same as the Outback, AFAIK. More than you asked but may help w/IDing what you need. GL, Td

2004 Forest XT Auto/4EAT This transmission line hose fitting is kinked on my radiator, and I've been told you have to order the radiator to get it! Anyone know the size/dimensions for it? I'd like to buy another 90 degree fitting to replace it. Oh, btw? Tranny fluid is flammable! That hose split, hit the exhaust header and I had a little fire down there! Thanks, Td

Read on CARS101.COM to compare the Legacy versions and for the Outback versions.

2004 Forester XT 180K - NEWLY rebuilt engine, w/new CTS (water temp), plugs, wires, new front AFR / O2 sensor... When cold, car runs poorly - stumbles and hesitates for 1st 1-2 minutes 'til it warms up. No CEL. It's worse w/colder weather we've had the the last week - mid 30's F. It did this BEFORE the Rebuild and After. And it does it on the Stock tune, a Cobb OTS tune, and a Custom -online- tune. Leads me to believe it's an 'Open Loop' issue in the ECU's programming? The front O2 sensor is new - Not the rear, but since they're not used until it gets to Closed Loop, they shouldn't matter? I'm not sure what to log on the Cobb AP but guessing that's a place to start. Thanks for any feedback. Td

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