wtdash

Hi, They should. The 2.2 will be a cable clutch and the 2.5 is hydraulic (hydro),which shouldn't matter. They are both PUSH-type clutches (some turbo models used a PULL-type). Per OpposedForces.com they use the same clutch: gl, Td

+1 on everything above. I'd stay away from the EJ20 - only because it has so much less HP/torque (30+). For year reference, everything from '99-'05 NON-turbo / SOHC will work. You can just swap the Intake Manifold from yours to another engine from the years mentioned. In '06 the EJ25x went to a variable valve setup so the heads may not work (although I 'think' they should), but the short block should still be OK 'til 2010+?? Looking on car-part.com will give the option to search between different years...and models. Search under Legacy/Forester/Impreza for each year. (I recently swapped an EJ22 into a Forester from an Impreza, which worked great. But I had to search on "Impreza" as it didn't show up under the Legacy searches.) GL TD

Thanks John...I didn't think to check the Europe models. They show the same part number for the trans:TV1A4YN2AA And this for the FD under Train: Differential assembly-rear 1 27011AA680 4.111 VISCOUS LSD '01, April — '02, Octobe

yeah...tried one and they don't do that either...but will see if anyone else does. Thanks

I need a company that the Seller can drop off an Automatic transmission, the company will prep it for shipping (palletize/crate/box) and ship it. This is in the Boston, MA area. Any suggestions? Cost isn't the main concern as I'm getting a good deal (I hope) on the trans. Notes: -The Seller doesn't have the means to do anything except drop it off emptied of fluids.. - Seller can't use Greyhound or go downtown Boston.

Thanks for the replies. Japan 's / JDM stuff doesn't always follow USDM specs, esp. for the turbo models.

Hi, I just bought an '02 WRX w/an AUTOMATIC that needs a new transmission - car doesn't move on its own @ all, per PO. On ebay is a JDM 4EAT : TG5C7CBAAA-Y1 Does anyone know if there's an interchange chart for the ATs? I've seen the manual 5/6-speed chart on NASIOC, etc. but nothing for the 4EATs. I know the US-spec is a 4.11 FD Ratio. Neither the Seller on ebay nor my local Subie dealer can confirm the ratio. Thanks

Hi and welcome to the USMB, If the dealer doesn't know either, then I'm not sure what it is - other than a 'bad' fob. I'd replace/swap the battery w/a known good one for kicks and see if that makes a difference. This site doesn't go to 2011 for the keyless systems, but may be something useful: http://www.cars101.com/subaru/keyless.html GL, Td

Hi, The CEL is NOT on, correct? If it is on for a PAST issue (like an O2 sensor), check it again for new codes. I'd recommend the MAF, but they usually cause the car to stall - not cut out. And the car will die when coming to a stop. The ignition switch on these is known to fail, but I don't know - other than replacing it - how to test it. Can you make the issue occur on purpose - by driving over a bump? It sounds like a wire is shorting out,...but I can't help tell you where to look. GL, Td

^+1 Thanks again. TD

For future reference and if anyone can corroborate, I got this info from another Subie site:

Hi, +1 on everything mr. 'grossgary' listed. -AFAIK, nothing before about '99 had any ECU updates avl.. I was looking for tuning options on a '98 Forester (same as yours) and there was nothing. 87 unleaded is their drink of choice. -If you've got a code reader/scanner/clearer I'd clear the codes after replacing the KS. -I'd say your <22mpg is right in line w/the Subaru est. #'s. -The 'torque box' (football) you're replacing may actually affect your power and noise level. I realize you're doing it for aesthetic reasons, but it may shift the power band, which may or may not actually be better for drivability. It's kind like people putting on an aftermarket intake. -I'd replace the CTS. They fail. - I wouldn't spend the $ on synthetic ATF; buy the good but regular stuff. I've not read where it makes a difference in the way the car shifts. If you've not read my posts about it (or others), I don't recommend getting the tranny chemically flushed or even a 'power-flush'. Jut drain/refill/repeat 3x to replace the old fluid. I would add an aux. tranny cooler. Heat seems to kill the Subaru 4EAT more than anything (other than neglected fluid). 1998 EJ25D specs: Engine model EJ25D Engine type Horizontally opposed, liquid cooled 4 cylinder, 4 stroke gasoline engine Engine displacement 149.9 cu in. (2,457 cc) Bore 3.92 in. (99.5 mm) Stroke 3.11 in. (79.0 mm) Compression ratio 9.7 : 1 Firing order 1 - 3 - 2 - 4 TD

Hi, I have a '93 Impreza and I'm looking to upgrade the stock 4EAT - it's not dead yet, but I want to be prepared. Looking @ the '91-'94 Legacy SS/TW or '96 - '98 Legacy Outback, GT or LSi or '98 RS (basically something that can handle more power when I upgrade the engine). My main concern is if the CONNECTOR(S) on top of the transmission - by the pitch-stop- work w/the 1993? And will the TCU in the '93 work w/the newer 4EATs? I know I'll need a different rear diff as the 1993 is a 4.11 and the others are either 3.9 or 4.44. Thanks to John - "johnceggleston" for great info and I'd like to hear from anyone that's done this swap/upgrade/replacement. Thanks, TD

Thanks guys..that seems to be the issue - expecting a 3 bolt-hole gasket - which doesn't exist.

Hmmm, I'm now wondering if the 'new style' is just the 2 bolt hole.....I was thinking it should be 3 bolt holes, since there are 3 studs to hold it on? P/N: 44011AC020 might be correct...which is probably the MS 97055.

Nothing close...must be an east coaster? I tried to search on RockAuto, etc. too...must not be avl. west of the Mississippi! :-( See below...were your gaskets 2 or 3 bolts holes? Thanks

^Thanks, but as noted EDIT: I don't 'think' that's the right part.

Swapping a '96 2.2 into a '98 Forester. Edit: I was thinking I was looking for a 3 bolt-hole gasket- doesn't exist for the SINGLE-PORT heads. #1: Having trouble finding the SINGLE port exhaust gasket that goes between the y-pipe exhaust manifold and cylinder head. It's NOT the DUAL port.: 44022AA020>>> 44011AC030. EDIT found: Subaru part number should be: 44011AC020 EDIT - found: This should be correct (and 1/2 the price of dealer): MS 97055 Felpro. Like this: http://gallery.legacycentral.org/d/17545-2/DSCF4157.JPG This gasket was used on the '96-'98 EJ22 used in the Impreza, Legacy. Not found @ Autozone, NAPA, NOR THE LOCAL SUBIE Dealer. They ONLY showed the DUAL port for all years. WTH? #2: Also, the 2.2 has sat @ the local yard - in their shop - for @ last 3+ years ( I almost bought it 3 years ago for another project). Should I BLEED the HLAs before installing the engine? Thanks, Td

^...other than it's quite LOUD ! :-) I thought that the rod may end up thru the case rendering it scrap? But if we pull it b4 that happens, the block itself can still be rebuilt, correct? Thanks Td

Thanks for the feedback. The car was on a road trip and had been driven about 100 miles from home when the noise started. I bought it used in '11, fixed the head gasket and it was driven approx. 25K miles over the last 3 years before the knock started. IIRC the previous owner had already fixed the HG once before, so I don't know how bad/many times it was overheated.

This is the stock 2.5 / EJ25D. Is this ROD knock or valves? Code for Misfire on 2 cylinders, too Thanks

HuH? What is this "GFYB, MF!" ? I don't get it - and not sure I want to. I was NOT disrespecting you, if that's what you think. TD

EDIT: That's probably your issue.The AC cycling. And I'd bet it's just the O-rings where the metal lines connect to the compressor - unless it's gotten 'fried' due to overuse. Read up on here or over on Subaruoutback.org for info on the o-rings. Easy enough to do yourself, but you'd need to 'recapture' the freon to be legal. And 'subaru nut' is my 'rank' due to # of posts. My user name is 'wtdash', not that it matters, but just for future reference. :-) GL, TD

Hi, Not sure why others haven't jumped in.... Since the MPG seem OK, I'm not as confident in my suggestions...and i'm not that familiar w/the H6- but: - Tune ups? wires and plugs? EDIT: this uses coil packs on the plugs..they could still be the issue, but not sure how to 'check 'em'. - MAF sensor need cleaned (carefully! read up) - Vac line issues? Car is 12 years old so hoses get brittle - try another fuel station GL, Td

Yes...the intake and exhaust valves interfere as they are on separate cams. Depending on the piston protrusion above the deck they can also hit valves. You'll want to do the 'franken motor' search, but you get more hp/torque w/a 2.5 SHORT block and 2.2 heads. Putting 2.5 DOHC heads on any 2.2 - NA or Turbo - will reduce your CR. But w/a turbo block it's still good as it allows MORE boost. The EJ22T block w/EJ25D heads is a 7.7:1 CR; w/the EJ22e it's about 8.5:1. So, it's really only a WIN w/a turbo for either application. TD