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Hi, You need one of THESE - LINK...assuming it's the STOCK keyless system And there was a CD changer avl. in '98. It should be controlled by the stock deck in the console. And either go to a local Pull and Save (used auto parts), ebay or http://www.subaru.com/owners/index.html and create an account. You can't download the manual all @ once but can search it from the site....and download the parts you want/ each section. Td

Hi, Please go HERE and scroll to the attached images. The bottom RIGHT image has info related to your issue....and it's covered a LOT on subaruforester.org...is a common issue on the 1st Gen Foresters...it seems. Td

Hi, Just to cover our bases...you've installed ALL the CC components, correct? - Need actuator, computer, dash button, brake switch and clutch switch Yes...I 'think' the CC computer is specific to the transmission. It was on some older Legacys. And your '95 is the oddball*..It's an OBD1 - not OBD2 / OBDII - so it should work w/the '93-'95 5-speed version. GL, TD *The '95 AUTOMATiCs had a 2.2 and were OBD2, per cars101.com.

2.2...the Impreza RS had the only 2.5 in '00...so either the year is wrong or he swapped it or it is...just wrong. GL, Td

Try THIS SITE. Baja not listed but 'should' be same as 2005 Legacy/Outback

Hi, This is the security/keyless entry system: One option, but worked on older Subies: This is how I got the lights to stop flashing: I turned the ignition to "on" (but didn't start the car--just left it on). Then I disconnected the Negative battery cable. Waited for about 15 or 20 seconds, then reconnected the Negative cable and lights were no longer flashing!!

Hi and Welcome to the site, -I wouldn't buy any turbo model for a 'low maintenance' car. Turbo models are generally more performance-oriented and therefore driven w/that intent, although the Automatic version is less likely than a 5/6-speed to have been abused, IMHO. The turbo models have more expensive timing belt kits, more frequent oil change intervals (3,500 miles), etc. The turbo 'should' be good for 125,000 miles, but they can fail early. There also oil filter screens that can clog and restrict oil flow. Look up TSB Oil filters on here. -111,000KM = 69,000 miles - not a lot on 7 year old model...unless you all don't drive as much in MB? - What's wrong w/your GV? I've read they're OK SUVs. Per the Owner's manual (on USA models @ least) there is a switch for the Traction Control. If you test drive it, you'll see it, too: GL, TD

HI Josh, You'll want pics from a '00+ car, I believe. I think this was related to the Phase 2 upgrades?? All models should have this setup in the back. Edit: Per this link on opposedforces.com it was around '97. This is a somewhat-related POST that I dealt w/a few years back. And this LINK may have some pics (from work, I can see 'em in Google, but not when I open the thread). GL, tD

Hi, Sorry I can't help, but here's a pic from the '93-'99 Legacy models (2WD and AWD). Anything missing in yours?

Hi, Respectfully disagree, as this is covered on the Legacy Central site and here's a quote from a member on there: "With an EJ22e and EJ22T heads you would be at 9.5:1 CR with the thickest OEM HG and would require some method to pull timing or just run very low boost. The best choice for that swap would be the EJ22T HGs. They are the proper bore and thickness and should match the coolant ports on the heads. The only major benefit/difference of EJ22T heads from regular EJ22e heads are the oil/coolant ports for the turbo on the back of the head, so it would be very similar to an NA-T build that lots of the Impreza guys do."

^Dude - you HiJacked your own thread. Car's worth depends....I paid $700 for a '95 LX wagon that was run out of oil and had been sitting for a year. Sold for $2500 w/a newer engine a year later. Go read up on RS25.com. They have this covered. TD

Hi, That filter is 'maintenance-free' per FSM: I'd recommend an Aux. Trans cooler. GL, Td

How cold does VA get? i never had an issue w/the bypass in N. ID -10 was uncommon but still no issues. GL, TD

Hi, I'm not clear on why neither the EJ22T nor the EJ25D will fit? They'll both easily swap into any NA Legacy or Impreza w/the stock 2.2? BUT I know 0, zilch, nada, as in NoThing about Brat conversions...so there. :-) Read THIS about swapping an NA EJ22e to an EJ22T turbo on Legacy Central for info. The '90-'94 wiring harness is very similar and the ECU from a turbo plugs into the same exact harness as an NA. I personally think putting the turbo heads on the NA block and running WG boost is a relatively safe option...it's on my 'to do' list if I come across a cheap Legacy....but won't be 200hp. Call Delta cams and ask about their Torque Grind. I 'think' it's worth 15-20 lbs-ft? Enough to notice, but still not 200. TD

Don't buy a used WRX that is out of warranty, is a 5-speed, or is modified, unless you have the $$ to repair it. $13K for a '03 is @ least $3K too much...even in my Subaru NW 'hood. Driving an Audi she must know about repairs?? An older WRX isn't much better, just a bit cheaper to fix. No offense, but I'd just step away from this 'deal' and let her do her own thing. Tell her to go test drive a few cars - w/out her purse/wallet/etc (just ID) - and THEN think about it. GL, Td

HI, '98 should still be a Phase 1 trans w/the 4 bolts. I don't think anything newer will work due to electronic differences (although it'll still bolt up), however any Subaru w/the EJ25D trans from '96-'98 should work and have the same 4.44 FD ratio: Legacy OB, GT, LSi, and Impreza RS. Google found THIS and THIS. GL, TD

Hi, I swear I'm NOT ESL, but i don't comprehend this: "change both the tensioner and the hydraulic assembly as well" In the pics I posted what parts did you change? And BTW, you CAN use your EJ25D assembly (I would if it's new-ish), just remove that whole bracket as shown in the pic. It'll bolt onto your 2.2. TD

Correct...a new belt would be marked... I don't know....

Which one do you have and did you RE-compress it?

Hi, Considering it's a high mileage Subaru turbo engine, you'll want to read up on NASIOC about the EJ255 (same as in the in '06-'14 WRX) and over on SubaruOutback.org. I'd recommend you get a compression and leak down test done, and if you're still on the original turbo, it's probably due for replacement. Make sure you check you oil EVERY time you fill up until you get this figure out or fixed. It could be burning oil but not blowing smoke. Td

Hi, - The harness plugged in just like the '99's correct? On the passenger side of the transmission/ rear of engine - 3 plugs? If so, that's all there is to it. - Those 2 hoses are probably vacuum lines for the charcoal canister. The 2.2's/earlier models have them up front; the newer/2.5's are in back. There is info on that on here and what to do w/them....I don't remember. - I 'thought' all the '90-'99's had the ignitor mounted to the firewall similar to this? Fuel, spark, air: - Did you make sure your fuel lines are properly connected? Easy to criss-cross. - Verified plugs and wires are all connected? - MAF is plugged in?

- CR offers a 'buying service' to get invoice prices...but still depends on the dealer. - Costco offers a buying service too. - Contact Joe Spitz from Cars101.com. He deserves the business for keeping his site updated...but not sure about his pricing. - OBs seem to be pretty 'hot' right now....Same thing happened to me when I bought my RAV4...it was popular...and I got no deal. TD

See if the attached would work - Exhaust Flange Clamp repair. I've not used it.

Hi, These cars are infamous for faulty fuel readings. There are TWO sensors in the tank - left and right sides - that share the task. Read up on here (and Legacy Central) about possible fixes. The pump is on the RIGHT-hand side (on USA models), for reference. I'll bet on the MAF, too. GL, TD

Hi, I'd look up ECU RESET and do it. That 'should' speed up the relearning. But if the original problem still exists it'll come back.