wtdash

Hi, Have you seen THIS on Wikipedia? You might have the I-Active valve heads? And ANY coil pack from a non-turbo, 2.5, similar year Subaru 'should' work. I would never buy a new one, as they aren't a high failure item (unlike the HG!)..ebay or local wrecking/salvage/parts yard would be my next stop...and usually you can return it if doesn't fix the issue. Td

Since you swapped the pulleys, did you also swap the cam and crank sensors? I don't know if they matter (I'd be surprised), but aren't too tough to swap. And your thoughts about the ECU + Ignitor + coil pack are legit, and since I have no experience w/that, i'll have to defer. BTW, if you Search on NASIOC.com this swap may be more common as the Impreza used the same EJ253(?) as your Foz and you can find more info. Td

Hi, Welcome to the site. You could just drop the EJ22T into your '95 w/the '95's Intake Manifold and drive it...if it's a 5-speed. Autos require the EGR fix I've posted on here. Or throw the '95 EJ22e heads on the EJ22T block...but that's a waste IMHO. Plenty of info on 'how to turbo an NA (non-aspirated / non-turbo)' subaru online. Here's ONE LINK to get you started, albeit they use an NA block. You CAN RUN this w/a LOW boost setup - about 5psi - which is the Wastegate pressure on the EJ22T VF11 stock turbo - 'as is'. It's not recommended, but it'll work. If you can actually FIND the rare EJ22T, it's already setup to run as a turbo so you're risk is lower than running an NA engine, as the EJ22T is 8:1 Compression ratio vs. the ~9.5:1 of the non-turbo. And no offense, but any 'stand alone' is a LOT of wiring....if you've never done it, it's not a 'first-timers' best option. Expect to $pend twice your budget and your time to complete this project. GL, Td

you can probably download the Owner's Manual online or parts of it direct from Subaru - you'll need your VIN #. Yes....Lights should be on the switches and the temp gauge. Bulbs have likely burned out. REad on here or on NASIOC.com on 'how to' replace. Td

Hi, Yeah...the TC needs to stay attached to the tranny. Disconnect it from the Flex Plate b4 pulling the engine and secure it so it doesn't accidentally get bumped when the engine comes out/goes in. So, did you swap the Intake Manifold from the EJ25>>>EJ20? I'm assuming so, but not clear. That 'shoulda/coulda/woulda' made some the wiring/hoses/etc. less of an issue? And coil pack from the Ej25 is on the EJ20 now? I'd also suspect it's the cause of your 'no spark' condition. GL, TD

just to be clear, I don't advocate power or chemical FLUSHING of any Subaru trans after 100K - just drain, refill, drive, repeat x 3 . Too many times i've seen it cause other issues....due to the seals in the trans failing, etc. TD

...and how Much of the fluid got changed? Just the pan or ALL of it? Td

and you've tried other gears? you should be able to put it in 2nd or 3rd and see if still happens....not sure What it tells you, but may narrow it down. And you're 100% sure the level is correct? ATF level in 4EAT is a pain to get 'just right'. And I agree w/the possible TPS - h6 or not. Find the FSM and test your TPS. Td

Hi, Welcome to the USMB. Is this a '94 WRX you imported to Canada? I'd also go Search on here: http://bbs.legacycentral.org/ The EJ22T used in the '91-'94 Legacy Turbo uses a very similar setup as your EJ20G..and 99% of the same wiring. and Go look on NASIOC.com and do a general search. The IAC you have is also common/similar to all the '92-'98/'99 Subarus. Sorry, I don't know what the issue is. TD

Hi, Welcome the USMB. Since the FWD ELIMINATED the torque bind (TB) your fix is mechanical not electronic (Duty C)...your Duty C is working and doesn't need replaced...but you might want to anyway while you're in there. HOWEVER...unless the previous owner told you (doesn't sound like they told you much!), try changing ALL the ATF before anything else. Buy 3 gallons of ATF Dexron III-compatible fluid. Drain the pan, Fill it to the proper level (this can be a PITA), Drive it a few miles/minutes, and repeat 2 more times. Drain, Refill, Drive, Repeat. This refreshes 90+% of the fluid out of the transmission AND the Torque Converter. If you've still got TB......keep reading. search on here for Torque Bind and you'll find lots of threads and pics to show you what needs done. Basically the rear transfer clutches need to be replaced or fixed....I fixed mine and it worked great.

Yes...just like the ''96-'99 Legacy Outback/GT/LSi and ''98 Impreza RS...... .....with the '95 dual port heads. .....'96-'98 have the single port and you'll need the exhaust header/manifold to match.

RE: the 'simmering' for the turbo. It is the process of letting the car run w/out the turbo running any boost, either while driving conservatively or actually stopping the car and letting it idle for 5-10 mins b4 turning the car off. This is also known as a 'cool down' and they sell turbo timers to helps w/this. Subarus do NOT need this and if you find it in the Owner's Manual please let me know....as it wasn't listed in my '02 WRX or '04 XT (similar engine to your '09) manuals. The Subarus have a 'convection' setup w/the cooling system, which causes water to cycle thru the turbo after it's turned off. Read all about it HERE. Subaru turbos (since early '90's @ least) are oil and water cooled so they are not over-stressed in regular driving. If you're on the track or daily auto-crossing it, then it probably needs to be treated differently....but your post leads me to believe it is not. In 2008>>2009 the WRX changed to a IHI VF52 turbo, and they may not be as well-built as the former Mitsubishi TD04 used in early models. I know the VF40/VF46 used in the 2005-2009 Legacy GT/Outback XT fails early....based on what I've read online. RE: Longevity....sell it and get a different car....yeah, I'm a blasphemer, but the WRX is a high-maintenance car - @ least compared to any non-turbo / NA car. The 3.0/3.6 H-6 engine is a good compromise, albeit you'll have to move up to the larger Legacy or Outback platform. It has similar power and MPG, w/out the EJ255/7 ringland, bottom-end, turbo failure and eventual head gasket issues likely to occur on the WRX. And no offense? But maybe you 'drive it hard and put it away wet'...either unknowingly or w/out wanting to admit. I'd take a hard look @ your driving style and see if there's any modifications there that need to be done. There are many drivers that ride the clutch and the brakes, which leads to premature wear. TD

HI, This is basically a timing belt job. The crank pulley (drives the belts for P/S, Alt and AC) must come off to remove the middle timing cover to access the timing belt components. The cam gear / sprockets will be on TIGHT so you'll need to look up how to hold them in place to remove. As noted no reason to replace the covers unless you're doing the whole timing belt job A normal T-belt job does NOT require removal of the cam gears unless your cam seals are leaking, too, unless you DO need to replace rear covers. Td

Also, you can call a dealer, give 'em your VIN and they should be able to tell you which tensioner you have. Td

I did THIS on the older models. Will it work on yours? Let us know. You'd need to swap back your EGR-equipped manifold. To disable the code (maybe): - Go look on RomRaider to see if they have info on modifying your ECU. You'd also need a Tactrix cable (or equivalent). Might look around your area for a Tuner that does tunes on the turbocharged Subies...they might help. GL, TD

Hi, Where'd your Owner's Manual get off to? Here's one on Ebay.UK. Good luck, Td

and you're putting oil on the bolt HEADS + WASHER, correct? TD

P1496 EGR Solenoid Valve Signal #3 Circuit Malfunction (Low Input) P1492 Subaru - EGR Signal Line 1 Circuit Low Read more: http://www.engine-codes.com/p1492_subaru.html#ixzz3ptf97TcX Since both are EGR-related, I'd be looking @ the EGR valve. Ensure the Vacuum hose(s) are attached and the electrical connection is connected. I'd UNPLUG it and then plug it back in and check the wires to/from the EGR to ensure they are not broken or somehow damaged. This LINK is for an Impreza (which is nearly identical in its electronics). He CLEANED his EGR and it helped....try that too. GL, TD

I'd go drive it. Maybe the 'mil' you see is the 'not ready' state that the ECU is in after the codes were cleared, which can only be reset by driving (search online for the parameters), from what I've read on here and elsewhere. Assuming this a recently bought 'project'? And the AT Temp light is NOT flashing, correct? That'd be an issue w/ the 'new' trans. GL, TD

Not a mech, but this pic shows the seals. If you can push them in by hand, then I'd say that's an issue......Why did the car come in to the shop?

something else.....you know the history of your '00, and I assume you've either done them or know to be aware of the head gasket issues. The '09, while a newer design, but still an EJ-series engine, will likely have its own issues. To the point....not sure swapping one 'known' car for an 'unknown' is in your best interests. The Legacy/Outback line has traditionally been larger in/outside then the Forester...Have you verified the dimensions? Cars101.com has most of the info you're asking for....look under the 'Archives' link on the left column for older models. And there are lift kits for the Outback that may give you that extra clearance when those freak Front Range snowstorms hit. GL, TD

^...Why recreate the same possible issue? Unless you're buying another Blizzak. Plus the tire size won't be correct....FRS/BRZ use a 215/45R-17....this is 1.6" too short (in diameter)....and FRS BRZ is a REAR-wheel drive so likely the wheel offset is wrong. Your '98 needs 205/70R-15 or 215/60R-16 tires. Anything else and your speedo will be off. And $400 for a set seems steep....not for a brand new set of tires, but for the wrong set of mismatched. Check CL for a set locally w/the above sizes. Put 'em on your existing wheels if needed as the existing tires are doing you no favors. I paid $150 for a nice set of mounted/studded snow tires and $85 for a decent set of summer tires for my car....good deals are out there. GL, TD

Not clear...did you just drain what was in the pan and refill? Or connect the lines to a bucket, etc. and actually cycle ALL the fluid? Half or more is still in the TC when you just drain it. If just a drain, don't wait. Do the Drain>Refill>DRive>Repeat x2 now...and by Drive I mean just go thru each gear....I even done it by just cycling manually thru all the gears a few times while sitting in the garage between each drain and refill. And I DO NOT recommend an ATF Power or Chemical Flush on the 4EAT....I know there's debate on this....but depending on mileage and age of the car, they can do more harm than good by causing seals to leak. A '98 shouldn't have a filter - just a screen in the pan, which shouldn't require maintenance. '99+ Phase 2 trans had the spin-on external filter, which generally was for the 'life of the trans' but in your case may be worth changing...if applicable. TD

So, may or not be applicable, but on my '96 the ABS light would come on and brakes felt 'weird' on occasion - shortly after I bought the car a couple months ago. When I replaced the struts a few weeks later, I removed the ABS sensor @ each wheel and cleaned the sensor off. No more ABS or weird braking since. GL, TD

^New Subarus DO have adaptive cruise control.>>EyeSight<<..it's becoming a standard. Your 2006 does not, and Yes it's normal for the speed to increase going downhill. Read your Owner's Manual. And please don't Double-Post....just because you didn't get an immediate answer is not a reason to repost 2+ hours later. GL, TD