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HI, Yes, from what I've read you'll need the airbag controller (@ least), too....but keep Searching on here/online, as it's been covered. GL, Td

With the FWD fuse installed/inserted in fuse holder, do you have FWD ONLY or does the torque bind go away (assuming it has TB)? If so, it's mechanical. If the fuse makes NO difference in the AWD funtion than it's electrical. TD codes: Trouble Code Table Trouble Code 11 Duty solenoid A 12 Duty solenoid B 13 Shift solenoid 3 14 Shift solenoid 2 15 Shift solenoid 1 21 ATF temp sensor 22 Atmospheric sensor 23 Engine revolution signal 24 Duty solenoid C 25 Engine torque control signal 31 Throttle sensor 32 Vehicle speed sensor 1 33 Vehicle speed sensor 2

Hi, Are you asking because you don't understand what the CTS does? Or some other reason? If the sensor is bad, it's mis-reading the engine temperature and supply the ECU w/mis-information. The ECU then gives the engine too much/not enough fuel which causes it to run poorly when cold. Once the car warms up the CTS may be 'accurate' enough that engine runs normally. There's also the open vs. closed loop ECU function, but I barely understand that myself so won't bother explaining! The CTS is a cheap part (no need for OEM from what I've read), but kind a of PITA to replace. After 11 years it's a good thing to replace regardless. GL, TD

Last tune-up w/NGK plugs and wires? Not in order: 1. CTS - coolant temp sensor 2. MAF 3. Catalytic converters 4. Fuel filter 5. etc? 6. valve adjustment due @ 105K miles, too For curiosity's sake, when were the HG replaced?

See attached. The mark on the BACK of the crank sprocket tooth is the one most miss. don't use the arrow.

I'd find one specifically for UPstream. I neglected to spec which location. ????

16" minimum wheel. All 2003+ Foresters had min.16" wheels, Per Cars101.com Wheels/Tires X - 16" Steel, M&S 215/60R16 Raised white letter XS 16" Alloy, M&S 215/60R16 Raised white letter And bigger front disc rotors: Forester X - 11.4" vented front disc with dual caliper piston, 9" rear drum. Forester XS - 11.4" vented front disc with dual caliper piston, 10.3" rear disc, with EBD Electronic Brake Force I've read about some 15" 'rally-style' (as in WRC) wheels, but none that were stock on Subarus, AFAIK. GL, TD

No MAF on the '00-'04 Ej251, IIRC....just the MAP. Denso on Amazon - <$35 No MAF in/on the intake tube of this 2002 Subaru EXAMPLE: http://images.gtcarlot.com/pictures/60960101.jpg

Assuming it's avl. swap the '03's O2 sensor...but really should get a new one....does NOT have to be OEM. Look for Denso brand on Amazon or similar. GL, TD

+1 on the above. The oil is probably leaking out of the oil pressure sender / sensor = common. Get a new one cheap @ the local auto parts and replace it. IIRC, you 'll need to remove the Alternator. Also, there are two parts to the oil sensor: 1 is the actual sensor; 1 is the housing/fitting/whatever that screws into the top of the block. Put a wrench on the bigger housing and just unscrew the sensor separately. Td

Hi, If this is a serious request...these are about as rare a Subie as you'll find....You'll want to spend more time on NASIOC.com as they deal (almost) exclusively w/the Impreza, and you'll need to look on overseas forums as the USA had NOTHING comparable to the 22B when it was avl. in 1998. Read the Wikipedia article on this page - HERE. Issues: - The engine will be close to impossible to find (actually, very impossible). Yes, you can get close w/an EJ22T block and either EJ20G or EJ25D heads, but that's not a a true 22B - Body panels were unique to the 22B and no longer made. - Others. Most just go for the JDM WRX swap. Buy the front clip off Ebay and swap what you can (it's a Right-Hand Drive remember) into the Impreza. Expect $2500+ for the clip plus another $2-3K in extras. And if you've never wired anything be aware it'll take a complete wiring harness - engine and body - to make this work correctly. Good luck, TD

^+1 Also, what I hate to see is folks buy a newer, but still USED car that is OUT of Warranty, but just @ the limit of what they can afford. And then have an expen$ive repair get 'em. This is why I could never be a used car salesperson....I couldn't sleep @ night. Td

^+1 I would add that the Subaru stock tune is partially @ fault for the engine failures. They are tuned (too) LEAN from the factory to make EPA ratings look better @ the expense of proper fueling when in boost. For those of us that may actually 'drive' it as a performance car, this isn't to our benefit. This is documented over on NASIOC. And as a recovering Subaru Turbo addict, I can tell you to 'just say no' to USED turbocharged Subarus. Unless your maintenance budget includes new/rebuilt blocks, heads (valves), HG ('though not as bad as the NA 2.5s), turbos, CV axles, wheel bearings......@ least the manual transmissions are usually capable (Autos are tough, but limit performance/enjoyment). For about the same stock performance (but very limited upgrade options) the 3.0/3.6 H-6 engine-equipped models are a better option over the lackluster HG-blowing 2.5 NA models. But you're stuck w/the 4/5EAT, which sux. My .02. GL, TD

HI, Anything w/the EJ engine is likely to have HG issues..sooner or later. They were used up until about 2010 - depending on model. If you look on the Subaruforester.org and SubaruOutback.org sites you'll get a feel for other issues. I have an '07 RAV4 w/the V6 (same as Highlander) w/99K miles. It's quick (0-60 6.5 secs.) and fun to drive (for an SUV) but the 3.5 has issues - waterpump @ 96K and the variable Cams are making noise. Plus it's had 4-5 recalls....and a few other issues I've had fixed that SHOULD have been recalls. So although I like it, i'm disappointed in Toyota's reliability record....but I'm not sure any other Mfg is much better these days. I'd also stay away from older nav/infotainment systems....usually 'buggy' and slow. I'd also stay FAR away from an older CVT, esp. Nissans. I would consider one on a new Subaru. GL, Td

Post your year/model. There's a post on here to DIAGNOSE ABS issues, which you'll want to do to narrow it down. GL, TD

Hi, - speed sensor - does the Forester's have the cable/wiring by the transmission's gear oil dipstick? If not, NO. - Do you have the REAR DIFF from the '97 (Should be 3.90 FD Ratio), if not - NO (Forester is either 4.11 or 4.44) Do a Google search, too, as it's likely covered on another Subaru site. GL, Td

Hi, here's a wiper arm link: http://www.subaruoutback.org/forums/66-problems-maintenance/16812-wiper-arm-not-moving-2002-outback.html But there's also a plastic piece that connects the wiper motor to the arms that actuate the wipers...can't recall their name, but you can buy them cheaply @ most auto parts stores. I've had to do it on a couple of the '90s Subies....found link: http://www.subaruforester.org/vbulletin/f88/diy-wiper-bushing-fix-how-stop-those-clunking-slapping-wipers-111525/ The '95 is only year that has EGR (automatic transmission ONLY) - so it has the port in the cylinder head, AND is OBDII - so the harness/electronics are the same, AND has a DUAL -port head and exhaust - just like the 2.5, for the '96-'99 Legacy's w/the 2.5 (GT, OB, LSi). The '96-'98 2.2 can also be used, but more work. The little things are the vacuum lines, which are explained on here/online somewhere (I've done one, but my 'RAM' is full today). The burnt valve can be repaired by a shop (cost varies a LOT, since shops all charge differently) but the heads have to come off and it's easier (IMHO) to pull the engine, and you should plan on the whole reseal routine if the engine comes out......and even if you do it yourself, it's not going to be cheap. Hopefully I'm WRONG about the burnt valve...but be prepared. TD

Hi and Welcome to the USMB. As you found out, '99 was the last year of the DOHC EJ25D in the Legacy Outback / GT. It has an INTERNAL leaking HG -not the EXTERNAL that you refer to in your 1st post above, which started w/the SOHC EJ251/3. But if you're not getting any bubbles in the overflow tank, overheating, or water <>oil mixing, then it's likely something else. The Compression test will tell you a little about the health of the engine, but a LeaK Down will tell a lot more - mainly the health of the valves...and my $$ is on a burn valve. I bet the valves have not been adjusted? I don't know what your issue is w/the wiper blades....no offense, but are you sure you're putting them on correctly? And 55-65 seems to be the common speed where wheel balancing issues seem to appear. ....assuming you're wheels are not full of mud or snow? GL, TD

+1 - beat me to it.....I think your engine is a '95-'96? Valve covers also used on the EJ20G turbo blocks?

Hi, Check for EXTERNAL head gasket leaks. Yes....2007 still had that issue...AFAIK, I'd expect it on ALL EJ-series engines. - Add a WP and T-stat to the timing belt job. Do the math on your MPG savings for your yearly expense. What would your commuter cost vs. the Forester? -25mpg vs. ~35mpg on 'cheap fuel sipping commuter'. -$5K + $1K in initial maintenance (high estimate) and you 'should' be good for another 100K miles. - Don't forget insurance, too. Subaru NON-turbos seem to be reasonable for monthly premiums. Plus the fact you know the history of the Fozzy vs. someone else's unknown maintenance?? GL, Td

Hi and welcome, My 1st question is, 'Why selling after only a month?' -Timing belt - all pulleys/tensioner/WP + Tstat (only OEM/STANT X-act on Tstat). - 1995 was still NON-interference engine. - Front Diff/trans gear oil and rear diff use the same stuff - 75w90 - or get the Subaru Extra-S if you're OEM-only. - fuel filter, CTS, clean the MAF (maf spray only), - check the front CVs...probably due. you'll find more on here

you can also use opposedforces.com. Look under TRAIN in the transmission section....TD

Hi, Have you seen THIS on Wikipedia? You might have the I-Active valve heads? And ANY coil pack from a non-turbo, 2.5, similar year Subaru 'should' work. I would never buy a new one, as they aren't a high failure item (unlike the HG!)..ebay or local wrecking/salvage/parts yard would be my next stop...and usually you can return it if doesn't fix the issue. Td

Since you swapped the pulleys, did you also swap the cam and crank sensors? I don't know if they matter (I'd be surprised), but aren't too tough to swap. And your thoughts about the ECU + Ignitor + coil pack are legit, and since I have no experience w/that, i'll have to defer. BTW, if you Search on NASIOC.com this swap may be more common as the Impreza used the same EJ253(?) as your Foz and you can find more info. Td

Hi, Welcome to the site. You could just drop the EJ22T into your '95 w/the '95's Intake Manifold and drive it...if it's a 5-speed. Autos require the EGR fix I've posted on here. Or throw the '95 EJ22e heads on the EJ22T block...but that's a waste IMHO. Plenty of info on 'how to turbo an NA (non-aspirated / non-turbo)' subaru online. Here's ONE LINK to get you started, albeit they use an NA block. You CAN RUN this w/a LOW boost setup - about 5psi - which is the Wastegate pressure on the EJ22T VF11 stock turbo - 'as is'. It's not recommended, but it'll work. If you can actually FIND the rare EJ22T, it's already setup to run as a turbo so you're risk is lower than running an NA engine, as the EJ22T is 8:1 Compression ratio vs. the ~9.5:1 of the non-turbo. And no offense, but any 'stand alone' is a LOT of wiring....if you've never done it, it's not a 'first-timers' best option. Expect to $pend twice your budget and your time to complete this project. GL, Td