wtdash

^+1 If power isn't an issue - hauling/towing/3 linemen @ your dinner table - the 2.2 will do. Otherwise, R&R that 2.5 and hope for the best. As stated, there are MANY (including me) that have replaced the HG only to have a rod pop out of the block shortly thereafter due to failed rod bearings. Or throw in the '95 EJ22 - if it's from an Auto trans it'll have the EGR you need; if not, you'll need @ least an IM w/EGR from a '95-'98 SOHC 2.2 and do that 'Non-EGR mod' on here. Keep the 2.5's flexplate if the Fozzie is an AT, and then sell that ticking time-bomb (aka EJ25D) as is for $300-500? They're getting rarer and someone may want it. Td

^ Yes...which is why I posted the attachment of the Inlet/Outlet lines from the Trans. I don't want to deal w/a fan/T-stat, and I think/hope the add-on cooler will enough, but probably should do another ATF change w/Synthetic. I'd still like to find another 2.5 4EAT w/the 4.44 FD ratio as a backup...as I'll probably turn up the boost b4 too long. And No 5-speed swaps....been there, done that. Thanks

Installed a Hayden 401 (402 is too long/wide) AT trans cooler inline w/the stock cooler. According to the attached from the FSM the UPPER attachment on the radiator is the RETURN to trans....makes no sense that the fluid flows UP and out.....?

Hi, What engine/year is in your 'new outback'? Since you've had Turbo'd Subarus you probably have a reference point for whether the NA is Enuff. This might be useful: http://www.cars101.com/baja.html Also, I-Active valves (VVL intake side) on 06+ were avl., but not noted on the link above - so not sure Baja's got those or not....bumped hp/torque a bit. Don't take this as arguing w/subarubrat's comments, as I'm no mechanic. But I'd double-check on the valve adjustments (screw-type on the SOHC; Buckets on the DOHC turbos, IIRC???), as I thought only the early '90's 2.2 and 2.5 have the HLA's that 'auto-adjust'. Also, I'm not a fan of Subaru's turbo'd EJ205/EJ255/EJ257 series of engines>>>>Unless you get a low mile, 'granny-driven', one-owner, maintenance history from Day One....seen too many broken ringlands, blown turbos, and more....but I'm inferring you knew that.

Hi, I'm w/LT - The lack of a MAP is going to likely cause 'limp' mode or @ least 'impaired function'. The '95 2.2 engine is very similar to the '90-'94 used in the OBD1 cars - other than the different TPS, EGR - on the Automatics, engine harness, and maybe a couple other things. But the '95 ECU is OBD2 and more 'picky'. ....and before you ask, the ECU and wiring harness connectors are different, so you can't easily swap it in....although on your buggy it may not be near as tough. This LINK is for the '90-'94 ECU codes and there is a code 45 for the 'Atmos. Sensor', which may be the MAP?? It shows that it 'Sets sensor to 760 mmHg' - I'm not sure what that is, but it sounds like a 'limp/fail-safe' mode. So, either OBD1 or 2 you need the MAP, IMHO. GL, TD

HI, I'd suggest that Yes that door light can drain the battery. The light on the dash is triggered by that door's sensor. You should be able to wire that sensor so the LIGHT IS OFF all the time...but w/out seeing it I can't tell you how. I'd think this would be easier than pulling the dash cluster and removing the corresponding bulb. If you can't close the door, then I'm guessing the door is already damaged, so the light working or not isn't an issue....I'd be more concerned if it can/not be locked. Edit: There's likely a fuse that controls the 'door ajar' lights, but it may also control something you WANT to work....look on the fuse cover or in the Owner's Manual. GL, TD

Hmmmm, see attached from my step-son's '00 OB. Can't tell where it goes, but doesn't look to link into the PCV, as you can see the PCV and it appears to just go from block>>TB. I can't get to opposedforces.com @ work...but it 'should' show it, too.

+1 for the PCV -should be a another port on the PCV 'T' connector from the block to the IM that goes there. Like this post? And if that pic was about 2 feet farther back.....we could see the PCV. What year?

Hi, To clarify - those are 215/60R-16 not 265, I'd guess. They'll fit under the '96-'99 OB struts, which is my setup, too. You'll notice less off-the-line speed and passing...as you've effectively dropped your FD ratio. Your speedo will also be off about 7%....so it'll show 70mph, but you'll be @ almost 75mph actual.......be advised. GL, TD

I'd read up on cars101.com about Subaru. Look under the Archives link for each year Forester and its related options/upgrades/etc. My opinions: 1. Most AWD vehicles have 3 open diffs - front>center>rear. It's too confusing for me to explain so search on it. To be 'picky', nothing but a Full Time 4WD w/locking differentials (not limited-slip) will supply 'constant power to ALL four wheels' as the tires must be able to turn @ different speeds while turning on dry/wet pavement, or it'll damage the differentials. These will have a selector on the floor/dash to engage the 4WD. Very few vehicles have this. The Jeep Rubicon, Landcruiser are examples. Many NEWER vehicles achieve a 'virtual' 4WD system via the use of ABS, traction control, etc. to put torque to all 4 wheels as needed. Read up on OPEN differentials, as this is what allows wheels to turn and spin @ different speeds. 2. True 4WD is great for OFF-road. For normal driving on snow-covered, icy or wet roads, AWD is better for most drivers.....if you're a wanna-be rally driver, you may prefer the 4WD. 3. Power is shifted but it depends on the transmission, as noted. There are various systems utilized. Look @ that link above by WC2. From Cars101.com for the 2002 Outback: 4. Overall, the 2003+ are similar in their reliability. The '11 Forester had the new FB25 engine - I've not heard good/bad yet - but I'm not that familiar w/the newer stuff. The CVT transmission was avl. in '14. If you look on here or on SubaruForester.org you'll see enough issues to cause concern, but that's common if you look @ other online forums....it's the nature of forums - people come here to find answers to problems, not to praise their cars. 5. Hitches are avl.. Install isn't that tough - depends on the year and your skills. 6. Forget the Tribeca - Subaru has. Disco'd in '14. They're not bad cars, just much better choices, IMHO. I lived in CO, am a skier, and wouldn't be w/out my AWD and studded snow tires. You mentioned CR and they showed that dedicated snow tires - studded or studless - are an important part of making your vehicle Winter-Ready. Colorado's Big Snow Dumps require AWD/4WD, ground clearance, and snow tires....esp. if you live in the Front Range foothills. I'm also a Toyota fan, and the 4Runner would be a good choice, but you give up MPG, and personally I think Subarus handle better as they're not so hIGH....or as heavy. I'd also add the '06-'12 Rav4 to your list...but I'm biased as that's what we have (in addition to our Subarus). GL, Td

Everything I read says that it doesn't affect the way the car runs it's merely an emissions piece but do some more research on that.

+1 on the EGR. And you'll need to run the Baja's IM w/the EGR so it doesn't throw a CEL. You can try my EGR - work around shown in the link above, but I don't know anyone who's yet tried it on a '99+ Subie. Otherwise, you can CAREFULLY drill and tap that boss on the OB block. I'd be surprised if the OB is actually an '03, but maybe your Baja (or the OB) is CA-spec vs. Fed-spec? GL, TD

Hi and Welcome to the site, Is the Airbag light on AND the cruise control dead? If so it's the Roll Connector / clockspring device that transmits the info thru the steering wheel to the ECU, etc. Please do a Search for Forester Wiring or 'FSM (factory service manual)' to get diagrams. Also, if you're in the UK, yours may differ significantly from us Yanks. GL, TD

Hi, Back of engine...so not an easy fix:

^+1 To start: - Fuel filter - CTS - Coolant temp sensor - Tune up - wires and plugs - MAF (but not likely unless it dies w/out warning) Also, 120K is past due for timing belt/WP/Tstat/Pulleys.....if not done @ 105K.

No idea...but I was able to view it on my iphone. Try this: jdmfsm.info/Auto/Japan/Subaru/

See attached. It has most Subaru's. The USA '95 Legacy models all used the same engine, so don't get hung-up on the 'Legacy Outback' listing.

Yes...do a search on hill-holder - been used in Subies for decades...might be in the Owner's Manual, too. GL, TD

Hi, Did you verify that the ECU connector is latched? There is NO flashing of the ECU / ECM needed....in fact, I've never heard/read that the '96-'99 years could even be flashed. I'd return everything back the way you had it (ensure your battery is charged), and try it. As noted above, Most likely it's the MAF causing your original issue. '92-'98 Subaru Impreza, Legacy (non-turbo), Forester EJ22 and EJ25 all used a green label MAF: 22680AA160 or 22680AA160F i'd try another used one...due to their cost new. $300+ from dealer.

Sorry...don't know what the Subaru engineers were thinking.....but I DID also use the pattern on my non-abs '90 and '96 (brighton) models in the past. If you don't have the Subaru ABS test system, I've read you can bleed the brakes, then go use the brakes that allows the ABS to engage - such as a gravel road - SAFELY- and then re-bleed them to get all the air out???

Hi, Subarus have a unique bleed pattern For USA cars: passenger front driver rear driver front passenger rear.

see attached for URL. $1.50 thru Paypal. It's an AutoCheck which doesn't (usually) have the Maintenance history sometimes found on a Carfax, but otherwise useful. I've used it dozens of times w/out issue.

From owner's manual: Use one of the following types of automatic transmission fluid. Genuine Subaru Automatic Transmission Fluid Type-HP IDEMITSU ATF HP (as noted above - $9.60 a quart on Amaz.) Castrol Transmax J Pennzoil ATF-J* * Available only in the USA (except Alaska and Hawaii) Nissan's ATF-J is also reportedly the same. I think you're going to have to pony up and buy one of these...Dexron III, etc. is NOT recommended. Type-J or the Subaru HP for 5EAT transmissions.

Hi, Give the attached a look. Are your 2.5's down under also known as the EJ25D? GL, TD

HG doesn't affect comp or leak down test.