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Hi, REview THIS POST. Basically, you need a '95-'98 SOHC (ONLY) EGR-equipped intake manifold (IM). GL, Td

No. It will not. The USA/USDM Non-turbo DOHC 2.5 engines prior to '00 were the older Phase 1 version ('99 was transistion year and had Phase 2 blocks but used Phase 1 for everything else), and the electronics/sensors were not compatible. You 'could' technically use the short block, but I wouldn't recommend it unless it's new/rebuilt as used ones were probably overheated and/or the rod bearings worn out. And the newer ('11+) FB25 are also DOHC but not compatible either. GL. Td

Hi, Welcome. Although this site handles all Subarus, you may have more luck on NASIOC.com as they deal exclusively w/the Impreza, WRX and STi. Short answer is it won't bolt on 'as is'. The exhaust is made up of multiple sections, and the WRX exhaust is a bigger diameter. Part of it might fit, but you'd likely need to weld it or use adapters to bolt it up....and it provides NO performance improvement.

No offense to Fairtax, but I 'think' the EJ22+4EAT (not the EJ18+ 4EAT) in the '95 Impreza was OBD2...per this Post and this POST, too. Same as the '95 Legacy. It 'might' depend on the build date, but if it has the 2nd Gen (NOT Phase 2) TPS on the throttle body and if it has EGR on the 2.2, I'd also guess it's OBD2. A quick look on ebait and the TCU/TCM's for both Impreza and Legacy from a '95 appear to have the same pin/connectors, but the mounting bracket is different. GL, TD

^+1= LuckyTexan I'd add that the HG WILL FAIL on any Subaru prior to about 2011, when they changed from the EJxxx to the FBxx engines, IMHO (although the FB haven't proven themselves quite yet). Buffalo should have a few decent Subaru mechs that aren't dealer-based, which should be <$2K for the repair....but I'd stick w/a dedicated Subaru repair shop regardless. HERE IS ONE of the better used-car resources and the '06 isn't too bad. Usually the HG's are fixed the car will be (mostly) reliable for a long time. You may want to consider the timing belt/water pump/spark plugs, etc if you do the HG's, as they're due @ 105K miles, I believe....much ofthat stuff has to come off during the HG repair anyway, so may as well do it while it's apart....should save $200-300 (?) in labor costs. p.s. $4200 is Trade-In value (to a dealer) as the KBB Private Party value is $6700 (on Craigslist) w/those low miles...depending on overall condition.

^+1 I'd add: ALL 2.2 and 2.5 (and 1.8??) NON-turbo engines from '92-'98 used the same Green Label JECS or AUTECS MAF. p/n: 22680AA160 or 22680AA160F (same exact part; ones made in Japan the other in USA)

Look up replacing the Wiper Arm Bushings.....surely many posts on here/ online. My '98 Foz had same/similar issue and these fixed it. TD

EGR fix for '90-'94.

Read thru Legacy777/Josh's swap: http://www.surrealmirage.com/subaru/swap/swap.html Basically the reverse, but more work....yours is likely a 'cable' clutch setup vs. the hdyro/hydraulic used on the Turbos and EJ25D cars. The dash doesn't need changed unless you 'need' the AT Gear display on the dash...but the harness could be a real PITA....AT>>MT is MUCH easier. ....personally, I wouldn't bother. It that is a '90 AT it's the 4.11 and should work in any '90, '91, '95-'98 Subaru w/the 2.2. Any torque bind? TD

^ TZ = 1998 GT - see attached.

What's the TZ- code on the trans bellhousing? That's an easy way to verify the trans.

^ 1996-1999 OB should all work. car-part.com should show the interchange, too. EDIT: Car-part.com shows the FRONT and REAR shaft separately. The '96-'99 Front can interchange, but a quick look only shows the '98-'99 REAR interchange. I only checked AT info.

Clear this up a bit: As the OP stated, he can NOT get the codes to show up using the normal diagnostic methods...this is strange. The FWD fuse works regardless as it's directly connected to the Duty C ( I believe). 16 flashes or not. The FWD fuse DID work as stated by the OP and it STOPPED the TB, so YES the Duty C is working (but I'd personally still replace it while i was in there if the tailshaft is removed). There should be Black and Green connectors under the dash. The black were used on the '90-'94 models for CEL codes. Green for diagnostics...albeit, I'm not sure about the SVX use of these; FYI:1995 has turned out be something of a transistion year. SLOWNER44: What is the Maintenance history of the trans? Mileage? TD

^+1 So, the SVX tran plugs (under the hood on top of the trans bellhousing) plugged in perfectly to the GT's? Have you grabbed an SVX and GT FSM to compare TCU/TCM pinouts? TCU's you've tried for the GT or SVX? I've read the SVX trans is the same as the '91-'94 Legacy turbo - just different FD ratio....and the Legacy/Impreza trans are all interchangeable (including turbo) from '90ish-'98 (w/the matching rear diff), so if A=B and B=C, does A=C? :-) Anyway, I'd look @ the pinouts b4 swapping any 'hard'ware. Might be worth browing the http://www.subaru-svx.net/forum/ or similar for info? GL, TD

That harness is awesome. I wired an EMU into a '98 Forester project and ....will not do that again, thank-you. GL w/the swap.....and I'll have to keep this in mind when the next blown-engine Foz comes up on CL.

...and the front diff oil is easy to check -dipstick right there on the pass. side of the trans near speedo cable....the rear is the pain. Now, getting that torx(?) bolt loose to DRAIN the front diff can be a hassle. Td

+1000

Not quite. The Rear top hats are the older style /bolt pattern- like the '90-'94 legacy. And the rear sway bars differ, from what I've read....but may still fit. And looking @ cars101.com shows the same dimensions for the Legacy L, LS, GT Sedan and for the Wagon. If you look on the KYB site it may spec a different strut for the GT, and springs may be stiffer.

My .02: The 2.2 was likely the Phase 1 from a '95-'98 model which WERE compatible w/the electronics/harness/ecu for the '99 GT and OB which both still had the Phase 1 setup>> EJ25D (but a phase 2 shortblock). One way to tell is if the IACV and the TPS are the earlier style of the '96-'98 2.2/2.5 models. also, the Trans may be one of the 'delayed engagement' versions. Some have been fixed ......search for the THREAD on here. GL, TD

HI, Usually we like to know year/(exact)model to help. This POST ON NASIOC might get you started. If your O2 sensors are old/original that's a common 1st step. GL, Td

Hi, If timing is good, probably rod knock. Those JDM engines aren't any better than US...just usually lower miles. And some importers DO drill/tap the head for US customers, from what I've read/heard. GL, TD

Rattle is a better description...'clicking' is kinda misleading. I'll give this look this weekend. Related Question, plz: Should the slots where the -pad 'ears' fit - be greased? Thanks

Sorry, not sure what you're referring to. But the noise likely started a few weeks after I did the front brake swap Thanks

I wouldn't think so. I'm running WRX 16" wheels and these calipers original fit under the OB's 15". thanks Td

- It gets less and less the firmer I press the pedal. (I forgot this little tidbit in my OP.) Thanks TD