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.02 = Buy it. Worst case w/the alignment is if a shop CAN'T align it for some reason, and you'd need to go back to stock. I've put different struts on different Subies and always been able to align, so odds are in your favor. This will not be a quick/fast/powerful OB, so patience may be needed (by you and your fellow freeway onramp drivers)....depends on what you're used to, I'd guess. Td

Search NASIOC.com...More info over there as they're (mostly) dedicated to the Impreza WRX/STi. Good EJ207 info.

Yes...Harness matches heads + intake manifold. Yes, you could go 2.5 heads, too. Note that ALL the USDM '04+ EJ255/7 heads have @ least single AVCS, if the Stinger supports it, or you can block off the oil ports and run it NON-AVCS. I'm not knowledgeable about the '02+ franken CR's. But NASIOC will have it somewhere, and Outfront should know, too. Note that the Subaru US models all have low 8.0:1 (EJ205 WRX), 8.2:1 (EJ257 STI), 8.4:1 (EJ255 Forester/OB XT, Baja, '06+ WRX). So, 9:1 is doable, but you'll want 93+ Octane and again...TUNED. Most shoot for a lower CR and More Boost w/a larger turbo (18G+). I'm not sure what your 'buggy would like - more off the line (no lag) or more up top (spin to win!).

Dustin, I'm not a big fan of used Subie turbo engines. The EJ205 is known for spinning its bearings & blowing HG.....BUT it really depends on how rough its life has been, too. If you can't get a history lesson, Do NOT Buy. And you MUST get a compression and leak down test done, or you're really taking a risk. From what I've read on NASIOC.com, the JDM motors ARE a gamble. Yes you can (usually) return them but what a hassle.....but they're usually cheap. If you do look @ the JDM's be cautious about year as the JDM motors got the AVCS (adjustable Camshafts) before we did, as well as the DBW (drive by wire). Most of which can be swapped w/USA (USDM) versions w/out those upgrades, but that's another 'gotcha'. You can buy a NEW shortblock for <$2K, and maybe find a set of heads for $500? Obviously, you'll need to source all the other parts, so it may be way over budget, but that's my suggestion. GL< TD P.s. An option to consider is using your 2.2 block w/the WRX heads. I'd consider the 2.2 (assuming it's the older '90-'96 version) just as reliable as the 2.0. The WRX has coated, but not forged pistons. 200hp/torque @the wheels would be a safe, conservative goal w/the stock WRX components. The TUNE is equally important to the build.

Hi, Check out POST to ensure you got all the bolts/nuts separated. Yours is the Phase 2 ('99+), if unclear. In my experience, I've had a few that had separation anxiety. I believe there is a lip along the bellhousing that can be used to pry against. I'd not recommend the chisel as it might crack the housing. Also, I usually support the trans w/a wide piece of wood (don't dent the pan!) to lift it up along w/the engine lift.....so they don't bind while trying to separate. Lift just enough that the engine mount studs clear the cross member. The two bottom studs stay intact...@ least when I pull the engine. Don't damage the threads.... The Pros will certainly chime in w/better ideas. edit: as noted below make sure the TC is disconnected and STAYS w/the trans. READ UP on 'seating the TC' on here/online as it's important. There are 4 bolts that must be removed from the TC where it connects to the flex plate. The flex plate stays w/the engine. They are a PITA to get to and are not well-suited for any standard wrenches/sockets. I remove the Thottle Body for access and use a bolt extractor so I don't round 'em off and create even more grief.

This is a GREAT question......because it's the 'bulletproof' 2.2 and low mileage...but it's an EJxxx engine. I'll be interested to hear others' opinions. I do (most of) my own Subaru repairs and have another car I can drive if needed, so I'd probably just run it as is. If it were the 2.5 I'd definitely change the HG, as they're likely due in the next 10K anyway. :-( I can't advise on the 'white powder'. I'm only a fan of the current OEM HG, so no experience w/the BA kits. FWIW, I just had new rings put in my '96 2.2 due to some smoke @ startup - 128K miles. The Subie tech found a seized/stuck oil ring (likely due to infrequent LOF's - the PO had limited maint. records), which explains the smoke, but otherwise I was told the engine looked clean. P.s. If you have/can get the VIN from the original Legacy you can do a Carfax and if lucky there may be service history. Autocheck may also have it but less likely.

Not sure Where it is, but sounds like a fusible link? Probably where MT Tom pointed to. GL, TD

Yes, I was. So must be the other sensor? Other than the TCU/TCM I don't know what else is involved. GL, TD

HI - and welcome to the USMB, Did you verify the 'original key' wouldn't work either? If it's also dead, I'd just call another dealer (or 3) and verify the facts. I'd also look online/Ebay to see if you can buy the parts there. BTW (and for others' reference), most any Subaru parts department can cut you a key from the VIN, in case your dupe was done elsewhere. That's what I did for my '04 FXT and '02 WRX when I upgraded their separate key + fob = all-in-one keyfob.

HI, MUST be bolted down. Don't go back to that mechanic, IMHO. The orientation probably matters, but I don't know for sure. Should be lots-o-pics online showing it. Also, if the CEL doesn't go off/Code go away, there may be a break in the wiring to the KS>.>>>>common enough. Do a search on KS WIre repair and some (me included) have used MIC (rophone) cable as a suitable replacement. TD

Hi, Suggest sending a PM my way for faster response. Can't see the pic @ work, but if the IAC has a hose that goes to the air intake (and is not a coolant line), that should work. I have no experience w/the EJ18. Edit: I don't see a hose off the IAC, but that 1.8 IAC is very different than the 2.2/2.5's. But all you need is a hose that runs into the intake to the throttle body, so you could 'make one' that plugs into it. Just don't use the PCV or Breather as you'll be blowing blue smoke out the exhaust. GL, TD

Post on LC site. (8 years ago!)...doesn't 'help' much other than to confirm your experience. I'd go w/the hi-temp gasket maker, or you can take a template to a Auto parts or exhaust shop and see if they have an exhaust gasket that matches? Also, found this possible option but it's for NON-USA turbos: 14415aa010 Side-note: There were VF8, 10, 12, etc used around the world on the old EJ20G engines, which had the 90° inlet. The VF11 was only used on the EJ22T in the US and Canada. The '91-'94 Legacy turbos in the US/Canada were the only ones that didn't have an intercooler, so it had the unique 'clocked' turbo OUTlet direct to the throttle body. The # used for the VF series did NOT note size; it was related to age. The VF8 was OLDER but BIGGER/Flowed more than the VF11. Just like the VF39>43>48>? used on the STi since 2004+.

Hi, Did you swap the intake manifolds (IM)? The '95 EJ18 'should' be the last of the OBD1 and '96 is the 1st full year of OBD2, so thinking maybe something got 'missed in translation'? :-) Can't see pics @ work..so no help there. TD

HI, What year is your "2.2 1st gen" ? Is this the '90-'94 or all the '90-'98 models or? Are you in Europe, per your Sig? If so, may not be the same as US. For US cars, Most 2.2's w/5-speeds from '95-'99 did NOT have EGR; ALL 2.2 Autos and 2.5's did. You'll get a CEL if EGR is missing. To add to Larry's comments above, reseal the rear separator plate and leave the MAIN seal alone if not leaking. TD

....and listen for REAR wheel bearings, as they're another weak spot....and the Fuel Filler neck likes to get rusty in your 'hood (MidWest). GL, TD

^ He has WRX struts, which come w/205-55R/16 tires (@ least for the '02-'05) models. The 205-60R/15 are almost identical height/diam.to the 205-55R/16, so they'll fit. Look Here for sizes. BTW, you're speedo will be off. At 70mph on the speedo, you'll only be doing about 66MPH actual.

+1 ON the TMIC from an '06-'07 WRX or XT fit the easiest/best. Now that I see the pics, that pipe is probably easier to find here or on the LC website. I'll look thru my stash, too. Td

HI, Tangent: I suggest spending some time over on the Legacy Central site. Lots and lots (and lots) of info on the '90-'94 Legacy, including the '91-'94 turbo SS and TW models. I've got some good news and some bad news. If the piece that is cracked is the 90° elbow the FEEDS the turbo - between the airbox>>MAF>>silencer box, you can't buy that part anymore. Subaru stopped making it and the dealerships finally sold them all in the last few years. READ it HERE. I can't see pics @ work, so hopefully I'm wrong. People have come up w/workarounds but it's tough due to all the 'things' that multi-ported hose does. The good news is that the oil you're seeing is probably normal on a 20+ year old Legacy turbo. A couple other thoughts: - The turbos are usually pretty stout, if the engine is left stock. They're only pushing <9psi from the factory and seem to be reliable. And buying them used it's not as big a gamble as buying someone's over-boosted TD04 ('02 - '08 WRX, FXT, BAJA turbo).* Rebuilding is probably a waste of $$. - Most of the hoses/pipes/wiring will be brittle on that engine - lots of heat = hard plastic. Expect to get creative as things break and need repaired due to Subaru discontinuing many of the parts. Good/better news is some of the newer WRX stuff will work.* And don't forget to look in the Parts Shed on Legacy Central - post a WTB thread. - Expect the nipples/connections on the turbo's coolant tank - by the brake booster - will break when you look @ them funny...touch w/care. Assuming yours is still the stock plastic/composite tank and not the newer metal or composite tanks from a WRX, et al. - The oil pooling could be from the oil sender/sensor below the power steering pump and/or could be P/S fluid (ATF). Both of those have a leaky history. * The TD04 on the models listed above is a good replacement for the VF11 - IF you can find one that's not worn out....Look on NASIOC.com for those. IT REQUIRES FABRICATION to make it work, but it'll work w/the stock ECU, injectors, boost setting, etc. and provides a slight power boost w/out having to worry about blowing up the engine. Other WRX and newer turbo'd Subarus also have potential upgrade parts that can be used as replacments, plus you can still order them new from Subaru. GL, TD

Hi, Is this a Legacy? There was no Touring Wagon (in the USA) 'til the '92 TW w/the turbo. Search online - probably best on Legacy Central - about cleaning the IAC / ISC - Idle air control / idle speed control - valve. You can also replace just the top portion....read up on that too. GL, Td

So, this doesn't create a 'Phase 2 / II ' Frankenstein / Franken Engine w/elevated CR? And since the HG needs to match the bore of the block, I'd look into using an '04-'07 STi HG....from what I've read online. TD

HI, 1996 was 1st year of higher GC, w/bigger tires, struts, etc.('95 was just another trim level). '96 also had the better EJ22e w/the 5-speed, or the EJ25D w/the Automatic. I'd start looking @ the '97+ years. GL, td

Hi Larry, I always 'suspect' that mechanical part that attaches to the pass. side of the trans - part of the cable...that only explains one sensor....maybe fix one>>>both? Td

HI, .02>>>>put the old one back on and/or use its 'setting' to compare to your replacement. Also, put the throttle/Cruise cables so there's no tension as the idle shouldn't be 'faked' w/the cable. The ecu handles it. Look for vacuum lines that are old/cracked/leaking. TD

and no offense to the local experts, but there's even more STi-specific info on NASIOC. GL, TD

Hi, Also, if you look HERE on LC, you can use the AT dropping resistor in place of the BCS/WG Solenoid - If you're running an MBC on the turbo. GL, TD