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^....be aware that the BOLT pattern on the pinion flange (front for rear diff) changed around '95 - Legacy for sure, probably on Imprezas too- , so the drive shaft / line won't bolt up properly.

Looks like you'll need to swap the rear diff and they both should be PUSH style, as are all Subie NON-turbo* clutches -both cable and hydro - hydraulic. * some turbo'd Subies are Push; some are Pull. opposedforces.com\parts....>>>model>>drill down to the parts section>>Train>>Diff (trans) and look under Gear Set-hypoid: '02 TS = 3.9 ; '03 GT = 4.11 Matches the Tranny Chart linked by 'AdSub' The trans code (on the bell housing - TY********) MAY tell you - if you can find a 'decoder', but not sure.

Hi, CEL on? - get the codes. Full tune-up done yet? NGK plugs and wires? The low rpm, surging, bogging, sucking sound, COULD be a vac hose missing/disconnected - there are more than a few on there to reattach after engine installs. MPG depends on your driving habits, speed, etc. At 60mph I'll get upper 20's; Over 75 and around town it's low 20's. The ATF been thru the 3 cycles of Drain>Replace>Drive during/after the Duty C replacement? You only get 1/2 out of the pan from a drain...rest is in the TC.....this helped (somewhat) on my 1-2 shift.

You might be OK w/the power of the SOHC. The Phase 2 ('99+) engines don't make much more HP/torque than the '98's DOHC, but it's lower in the power-band, which makes it feel quicker/faster. Just don't drive the SOHC and then jump in the XT...you'll be finding ways to 'justify' the turbo's 'quirks'. :-) And you can only get the XT w/the Auto/CVT after '09 I believe....and they're not nearly as much fun. TD

Hi, As these are both still using the EJ-series engines, I'd plan on HG for the '09. Usually about 100K things start to show up. The car won't strand you, but do NOT wait to fix it once it's diagnosed as you'll be buying a new engine/block. Once fixed it'll be good for another 100K. The XT has the EJ255 turbo block (also used in the Impreza WRX, Legacy GT/XT and related to the STi) and it's known for ringland-related issues. The turbo may also be suspect if getting over 100K, and if it fails it can leave pieces and parts that get where they don't belong>>engine - and cause grief. Personally, I'm not a fan of USED Subaru Turbo engines as they can be expensive to maintain/fix/replace....and their MPG isn't great. I'd read up on these engines on NASIOC (both used in Impreza/WRX as well) and search online as there's plenty to be aware of. Generally, it comes down to what maintenance history you can get on the car. On the turbo models esp. I'd be wanting a ONE-owner w/all maintenance records. GL, Td

'97 GT FTW! :-) '97-'99 2.5 all were the same between manual and AT versions - as far as interchange - .....both had EGR. One difference - I think - was the 5-speeds have that T-belt guide over the crank sprocket?? '96 was the HLA heads and I've heard conflicting info about the early 2.5 shortblock - pistons, etc. Td

Hi, Sounds like you're @ least familiar w/the process...and you've got a nice collection. No Go on the Phase 2 EJ22- different wiring/harness. For whatever reason Subaru made the '99 model year a challenge. All Legacy models (GT and OB) w/the 2.5 use the EJ25D DOHC HEADS, Intake Manifold, and wiring harness, w/the EJ25 Phase 2 shortblock (might have phase 1 pistons??). All other Subaru models w/the 2.5 use the complete Phase 2 engine. Best/easiest option? Just fix the 2.5 that's in there. DO NOT keep driving it as you'll likely ruin the bottom-end, which is already weak, IMHO. If you CAN re-use the other set of '97 DOHC heads, they could get R-n-R'd and be ready for a SaturDAY swap....provided you don't have any other gotchas. GL, Td

Rear top hats (top strut mounts?) will need swapped to your '93 - (same # of bolts on Forester- but different pattern). There's also possibly an issue w/the tapered springs, and I'm not sure if the '93's are tapered or not, which would require the Forester's springs to match to fit the top hats....I know it's been done. You can also 'ghetto' it by drilling out a hole to match the Forester top hats ...look that up online if interested. I did than on my '90 wagon and it worked fine - thru 3 different suspension setups: OB>>Forester>>WRX TD

^+1 Hi, Do the Kiwis have an 'interchange' system? We have car-part.com (one example) that has all USED vehicles and will show parts that interchange. I'd also compare the trans ID label on the bell housing...starts w/a TZ for Automatics, in USA...also on the VIN plate by the driver's (passengers for NZ?) strut tower under the hood in USA. Like this (TY is manual/5-speed): GL, TD

- Clean the MAF w/the MAF spray - don't use brake cleaner or anything w/too strong a spray. - Clean the IAC - Tune up time? Td

+1 Limp mode

Use the one that matches the trans....but doubt it matters. ARe they both hydraulic clutches? 2.2 on earlier years was cable; 2.5 were hydro. You have the single-port exhaust y-pipe for the 2.2.? Td

+1 on the P/S pump and/or fluid.

Hi and Welcome, '96 OB had a 2.5 w/the AT and 2.2 w/the 5-speed. 2.2 is NON-interference - if you're so lucky? Also, should be be a CODE stored in the ECU, get a hold of an OBDII scanner and check it. TD

Hi, This doesn't help...now...but did you look @ swapping the throttle body from your '94 1.8 and running it w/the stock ECU on the 2.5? It should've been good to go....but I've not had the pleasure of working on the 1.8 so may not swap.....? Google this: OBD1 JDM 1995 Legacy 2.5 ECU And look under the Rs25.com results. There are others that have done this.....and this one: http://www.rs25.com/forums/f72/t69103-1995-jdm-n-2-5-ecu-into-1995-usdm-n-1-8-car.html GL, TD

Install here: http://www.subaruforester.org/vbulletin/f115/td-s-sf-73979/#post826982 DeatschWerks or Walbro are $100 w/the install kit.

Tangent...interesting the EJ221 - I thought they were EJ222.

Yeah....it'd be if that site goes offline. I can't get to it from work, due to our Firewall, but works from phone and home. If I had 'mad skilz' w/the 'puter I'd grab the whole site for posterity. I had to put in opposedforces.com for it to come up; NO WWW. prefix.

^+1 on axles. For whatever reason the '05-09 seem to wear out axles about 100K. Yours may be due or were done w/cheap replacements. soob-experienced mechanic = Subaru experienced mechanic. Many on here, myself included, prefer a seasoned/trained/etc Subaru mech/tech to work on our cars. Subarus aren't hard to work on, but to save time on diagnostics - and return trips for repairs - you'll be ahead of the game. And not necessarily a dealer, but an independent (indie) shop. And PLEASE change your OIL often - every 3K miles, make sure the filter screens on the oil lines to the heads and turbo are removed, use the best Top Tier fuel w/the 92 Octane (or highest avl. in UT), and do some more research on keeping that turbo engine (EJ255) healthy. If the turbo starts to make noises, do NOT wait to replace it (VF40 model). The turbo in yours doesn't have the best reputation for longevity and when it starts to fail it can throw its broken parts into the engine. - not good. Td

- Trans, Seats, suspension, wheels/tires, should be good. - I don't know about the dash or Back doors - unlikely as body style changed in '03. - I'd also wonder if the driveline/shaft will fit....but probably as I don't think the wheelbase changed (much). Use the '00 or '98. ( you refer to both years??)

Learn something new every day! Thanks

No...see the pics attached in 1st post. I have the stock '96 EJ22e IM installed - w/the EGR valve. I have the one-way valve installed on this and is working fine - @ 5psi. "...with BOOST going..."? or what is 'host'.

Per cars101.com, 2013 was still the 4EAT - No CVT>>2014. From the 2013 OM - section 9-18:

Yes.........our buddies on LegacyCentral.org have a good thread on it: http://bbs.legacycentral.org/viewtopic.php?f=5&t=44555 Td

I see you're in Canda - Nova Scotia?- and pay more than us, but Imprezas start @ $18K new down here in the US....so just for grins, I'd compare this used Impreza to their cheapest new Impreza, if @ a Subaru dealership. Also, the Kelley Blue Book I use in the US has 3 values for their online pricing - Trade-In, Private Party (no dealers), Retail (used or new dealership). I'd work from the Private Party price.