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Hi, To clarify - those are 215/60R-16 not 265, I'd guess. They'll fit under the '96-'99 OB struts, which is my setup, too. You'll notice less off-the-line speed and passing...as you've effectively dropped your FD ratio. Your speedo will also be off about 7%....so it'll show 70mph, but you'll be @ almost 75mph actual.......be advised. GL, TD

I'd read up on cars101.com about Subaru. Look under the Archives link for each year Forester and its related options/upgrades/etc. My opinions: 1. Most AWD vehicles have 3 open diffs - front>center>rear. It's too confusing for me to explain so search on it. To be 'picky', nothing but a Full Time 4WD w/locking differentials (not limited-slip) will supply 'constant power to ALL four wheels' as the tires must be able to turn @ different speeds while turning on dry/wet pavement, or it'll damage the differentials. These will have a selector on the floor/dash to engage the 4WD. Very few vehicles have this. The Jeep Rubicon, Landcruiser are examples. Many NEWER vehicles achieve a 'virtual' 4WD system via the use of ABS, traction control, etc. to put torque to all 4 wheels as needed. Read up on OPEN differentials, as this is what allows wheels to turn and spin @ different speeds. 2. True 4WD is great for OFF-road. For normal driving on snow-covered, icy or wet roads, AWD is better for most drivers.....if you're a wanna-be rally driver, you may prefer the 4WD. 3. Power is shifted but it depends on the transmission, as noted. There are various systems utilized. Look @ that link above by WC2. From Cars101.com for the 2002 Outback: 4. Overall, the 2003+ are similar in their reliability. The '11 Forester had the new FB25 engine - I've not heard good/bad yet - but I'm not that familiar w/the newer stuff. The CVT transmission was avl. in '14. If you look on here or on SubaruForester.org you'll see enough issues to cause concern, but that's common if you look @ other online forums....it's the nature of forums - people come here to find answers to problems, not to praise their cars. 5. Hitches are avl.. Install isn't that tough - depends on the year and your skills. 6. Forget the Tribeca - Subaru has. Disco'd in '14. They're not bad cars, just much better choices, IMHO. I lived in CO, am a skier, and wouldn't be w/out my AWD and studded snow tires. You mentioned CR and they showed that dedicated snow tires - studded or studless - are an important part of making your vehicle Winter-Ready. Colorado's Big Snow Dumps require AWD/4WD, ground clearance, and snow tires....esp. if you live in the Front Range foothills. I'm also a Toyota fan, and the 4Runner would be a good choice, but you give up MPG, and personally I think Subarus handle better as they're not so hIGH....or as heavy. I'd also add the '06-'12 Rav4 to your list...but I'm biased as that's what we have (in addition to our Subarus). GL, Td

Everything I read says that it doesn't affect the way the car runs it's merely an emissions piece but do some more research on that.

+1 on the EGR. And you'll need to run the Baja's IM w/the EGR so it doesn't throw a CEL. You can try my EGR - work around shown in the link above, but I don't know anyone who's yet tried it on a '99+ Subie. Otherwise, you can CAREFULLY drill and tap that boss on the OB block. I'd be surprised if the OB is actually an '03, but maybe your Baja (or the OB) is CA-spec vs. Fed-spec? GL, TD

Hi and Welcome to the site, Is the Airbag light on AND the cruise control dead? If so it's the Roll Connector / clockspring device that transmits the info thru the steering wheel to the ECU, etc. Please do a Search for Forester Wiring or 'FSM (factory service manual)' to get diagrams. Also, if you're in the UK, yours may differ significantly from us Yanks. GL, TD

Hi, Back of engine...so not an easy fix:

^+1 To start: - Fuel filter - CTS - Coolant temp sensor - Tune up - wires and plugs - MAF (but not likely unless it dies w/out warning) Also, 120K is past due for timing belt/WP/Tstat/Pulleys.....if not done @ 105K.

No idea...but I was able to view it on my iphone. Try this: jdmfsm.info/Auto/Japan/Subaru/

See attached. It has most Subaru's. The USA '95 Legacy models all used the same engine, so don't get hung-up on the 'Legacy Outback' listing.

Yes...do a search on hill-holder - been used in Subies for decades...might be in the Owner's Manual, too. GL, TD

Hi, Did you verify that the ECU connector is latched? There is NO flashing of the ECU / ECM needed....in fact, I've never heard/read that the '96-'99 years could even be flashed. I'd return everything back the way you had it (ensure your battery is charged), and try it. As noted above, Most likely it's the MAF causing your original issue. '92-'98 Subaru Impreza, Legacy (non-turbo), Forester EJ22 and EJ25 all used a green label MAF: 22680AA160 or 22680AA160F i'd try another used one...due to their cost new. $300+ from dealer.

Sorry...don't know what the Subaru engineers were thinking.....but I DID also use the pattern on my non-abs '90 and '96 (brighton) models in the past. If you don't have the Subaru ABS test system, I've read you can bleed the brakes, then go use the brakes that allows the ABS to engage - such as a gravel road - SAFELY- and then re-bleed them to get all the air out???

Hi, Subarus have a unique bleed pattern For USA cars: passenger front driver rear driver front passenger rear.

see attached for URL. $1.50 thru Paypal. It's an AutoCheck which doesn't (usually) have the Maintenance history sometimes found on a Carfax, but otherwise useful. I've used it dozens of times w/out issue.

From owner's manual: Use one of the following types of automatic transmission fluid. Genuine Subaru Automatic Transmission Fluid Type-HP IDEMITSU ATF HP (as noted above - $9.60 a quart on Amaz.) Castrol Transmax J Pennzoil ATF-J* * Available only in the USA (except Alaska and Hawaii) Nissan's ATF-J is also reportedly the same. I think you're going to have to pony up and buy one of these...Dexron III, etc. is NOT recommended. Type-J or the Subaru HP for 5EAT transmissions.

Hi, Give the attached a look. Are your 2.5's down under also known as the EJ25D? GL, TD

HG doesn't affect comp or leak down test.

^....be aware that the BOLT pattern on the pinion flange (front for rear diff) changed around '95 - Legacy for sure, probably on Imprezas too- , so the drive shaft / line won't bolt up properly.

Looks like you'll need to swap the rear diff and they both should be PUSH style, as are all Subie NON-turbo* clutches -both cable and hydro - hydraulic. * some turbo'd Subies are Push; some are Pull. opposedforces.com\parts....>>>model>>drill down to the parts section>>Train>>Diff (trans) and look under Gear Set-hypoid: '02 TS = 3.9 ; '03 GT = 4.11 Matches the Tranny Chart linked by 'AdSub' The trans code (on the bell housing - TY********) MAY tell you - if you can find a 'decoder', but not sure.

Hi, CEL on? - get the codes. Full tune-up done yet? NGK plugs and wires? The low rpm, surging, bogging, sucking sound, COULD be a vac hose missing/disconnected - there are more than a few on there to reattach after engine installs. MPG depends on your driving habits, speed, etc. At 60mph I'll get upper 20's; Over 75 and around town it's low 20's. The ATF been thru the 3 cycles of Drain>Replace>Drive during/after the Duty C replacement? You only get 1/2 out of the pan from a drain...rest is in the TC.....this helped (somewhat) on my 1-2 shift.

You might be OK w/the power of the SOHC. The Phase 2 ('99+) engines don't make much more HP/torque than the '98's DOHC, but it's lower in the power-band, which makes it feel quicker/faster. Just don't drive the SOHC and then jump in the XT...you'll be finding ways to 'justify' the turbo's 'quirks'. :-) And you can only get the XT w/the Auto/CVT after '09 I believe....and they're not nearly as much fun. TD

Hi, As these are both still using the EJ-series engines, I'd plan on HG for the '09. Usually about 100K things start to show up. The car won't strand you, but do NOT wait to fix it once it's diagnosed as you'll be buying a new engine/block. Once fixed it'll be good for another 100K. The XT has the EJ255 turbo block (also used in the Impreza WRX, Legacy GT/XT and related to the STi) and it's known for ringland-related issues. The turbo may also be suspect if getting over 100K, and if it fails it can leave pieces and parts that get where they don't belong>>engine - and cause grief. Personally, I'm not a fan of USED Subaru Turbo engines as they can be expensive to maintain/fix/replace....and their MPG isn't great. I'd read up on these engines on NASIOC (both used in Impreza/WRX as well) and search online as there's plenty to be aware of. Generally, it comes down to what maintenance history you can get on the car. On the turbo models esp. I'd be wanting a ONE-owner w/all maintenance records. GL, Td

'97 GT FTW! :-) '97-'99 2.5 all were the same between manual and AT versions - as far as interchange - .....both had EGR. One difference - I think - was the 5-speeds have that T-belt guide over the crank sprocket?? '96 was the HLA heads and I've heard conflicting info about the early 2.5 shortblock - pistons, etc. Td

Hi, Sounds like you're @ least familiar w/the process...and you've got a nice collection. No Go on the Phase 2 EJ22- different wiring/harness. For whatever reason Subaru made the '99 model year a challenge. All Legacy models (GT and OB) w/the 2.5 use the EJ25D DOHC HEADS, Intake Manifold, and wiring harness, w/the EJ25 Phase 2 shortblock (might have phase 1 pistons??). All other Subaru models w/the 2.5 use the complete Phase 2 engine. Best/easiest option? Just fix the 2.5 that's in there. DO NOT keep driving it as you'll likely ruin the bottom-end, which is already weak, IMHO. If you CAN re-use the other set of '97 DOHC heads, they could get R-n-R'd and be ready for a SaturDAY swap....provided you don't have any other gotchas. GL, Td

Rear top hats (top strut mounts?) will need swapped to your '93 - (same # of bolts on Forester- but different pattern). There's also possibly an issue w/the tapered springs, and I'm not sure if the '93's are tapered or not, which would require the Forester's springs to match to fit the top hats....I know it's been done. You can also 'ghetto' it by drilling out a hole to match the Forester top hats ...look that up online if interested. I did than on my '90 wagon and it worked fine - thru 3 different suspension setups: OB>>Forester>>WRX TD