wtdash

HI, My '90 engaged 4WD after a delay. Fixing the transfer clutches resolved it. It's not an easy fix, but doesn't require pulling the trans. You can R&R your existing clutches or buy new. What's the car worth? I'd just drive it w/the FWD fuse in. If you DO want AWD, you could install the center diff lock switch (10 mins of work) which would override the TCU's control. This has caveats, so read up. TD

The '98 RS is a Phase 1 engine and wiring. Since the '02 Forester IM bolted up, the JDM is Phase 2, as well. The engine harness - all the wires on the intake manifold, etc, the IAC, throttle body, and more are not easily compatible w/the '98. The ECU harness is likely different so unless you plan on tracing the wires from the ECU to each engine component, you may not get it to fire. Supposedly there are a few online that have made this setup work, but you're lucky if you do....devil's advocate, i may be, but mix-and-match wiring is no fun. Time to get online and read up on more compatible swaps, but the easiest - 99% plug and play - are the ''96-'99 DOHC EJ25D engines & '95-'98 EJ22 ( you'll need an exhaust mani for the '96-'98 single-ports). And I don't think Subaru had factory chip keys 'til about '05...but it could have the factory alarm....did you drive this car b4 the swap started? Gl, TD

Hi, Hopefully one of the experts will reply, but a broken timing belt won't necessarily destroy the engine. It'll usually bend/break a valve or two (yours has 16), and sometimes a valve will hit the piston ('interference-type engine'). In this case the piston can be damaged and need replaced, including rings. But to answer your question, No, the valve grind has nothing to do w/rings. However, $5K for just a cylinder head replacement/repair is excessive. Ask the the shop that did the 'rebuild' to explain what $5K covered....or post up your invoice for the work done. If is says engine rebuild vs. head rebuild you should have a case - meaning an ENGINE REBUILD will include new pistons, rings, rod bearings, and other things I can't think of tonight. If you have limited access to decent Subaru shops in Texas, it might be time to find another car.....although Subarus are easy to work on, they seem to fare better (and the owner's wallet) under a dedicated tech. Also,no oil on the dipstick doesn't mean it's out of oil. IIRC, if it's down 1.5-2 quarts (out of 4.7?) it won't register. If the OIL LIGHT has come on or flickered you're probably too late, otherwise, fill it up and start checking it @ every fill-up. 1 quart/1K miles isn't excessive for some cars....even on Subarus. GL, TD

Hi, All '92-'98 ('99 EJ25D, too) NON-turbo 2.2 and 2.5 Subarus used the same green-label plastic MAF. Maybe on the 1.8 too. Part number: JECS 22680AA160 and AutECS 22680AA160F are the same. Jecs is made in Japan, I believe. And although they do fail, they're cheap used. And buy some MAF Cleaner (don't use brake cleaner -too abrasive/corrosive/bad for the sensor) to clean it b4 install. Another post HERE.

Hi, Depending on your 2.2 - HLA vs SLA - I'd check the valve clearance if SLA.....easy(er) to do on the SOHC. If you've got the Leak down tester, I'd do that and a Comp. test as a 'health check'. GL TD

^If referring to the 4 and 6's used in Subarus -The FB series 2.0/2.5 and EZ3.6 are both chain driven camshafts. - Hondas I'm not too familiar with. Hi 1st comment: $2K repairs is a HG job on an older Subaru, after which it'll be 'mostly' good for another 100K, so if your 160K mile car is not rusted out or otherwise not road-worthy, why not fix it? Since you drive a lot per year, I'd drive it 'til it rusts out....of course reliability vs being stranded/not walking/taxi,/rentals may factor in. 2nd comment: I'm always looking for another car....bad habit...from your list above the 3.6R models will have the power you crave and should both have some warranty left. You can buy a NEW 2.5i version for those used prices - depending on options....but again, you'll be power-less. 3rd comment: I can't recommend anything else @ the moment...I would've recommended a 2006-2012 Rav4 w/the V6 - decent MPG and 0-60 6.9 seconds....but I'm losing faith that ours will make it much past it's 100K mark, which is about up. TD

Hi, This isn't a perfect comparison....but I had a '02 WRX w/the 4EAT and played around w/a '02 JDM TCU / TCM. I was trying to gain access to the Power / Hold option on the JDM version. It didn't work - gave me a trans code when I turned the car on. I was unable to find the code ANYwhere on line, so I never actually tried driving the car. Didn't want to screw up the transmission. If you could get a JDM version to go w/your JDM trans, then it might work and I'd think the 2001-2003 would interchange - BUT I also tried an '05 TCU on my '02, and it caused a light case of torque bind - no codes - but definitely wasn't right. The '02-'05 USDM WRX used the same EJ205 and were virtually identical, but obviously there were differences between years. TD

Also, there should be a white (?) label/sticker on the front connector #1 and #2. Td

HI, No...but if you look @ the right most attached pic it'll lead in that direction. TD

:-)

Just a heads-up...the trunk lid will fit WRX from 2002-2007, I believe..lots of young-gens would love that wing. The wheels are 5x114.3 bolt pattern, which makes them less compatible than the more standard 5x100 on most other Subarus (including the WRX) of that vintage...but as stated above, they should be well worth the effort to sell. GL, TD

Attached is the Code alarm box (can't find a pic of the Alpine). I had a '99 OUTBACK and IIRC, it still used the Code version vs. the newer Alpine. If yours matches this, you'll need the square-type fob. GL, TD

Hi, I'd also change your CTS - Coolant temp sensor - as something is causing it to run RICH or as stated above excessive oil. GL, TD P.s. I'd ask this on an Aussie site, too as the USA didn't get the WRX 'til '02.

NO offense, as I'm not a mechanic, but I wouldn't trust any Subaru 2.5 head gasket older than about 2010 (EJ-series). If you've made it past 150K miles yours may have been done. The HG do not fail catastrophically and leave you stranded (usually). You'll have time to monitor and plan for the repair ($1500+ USD). GL, TD

DO NOT buy the XT - turbo engines are not recommended. The Tribeca has the 3.0 or 3.6 H6 engine...may be better than a 2.5 but as noted, MPG in town won't be good. All of the rest will have potential HG repairs looming - unless you can get verifiable proof they were done. GL, Td

HI, if you get the belts AND the the same year '95-'99 buckles (attached to inside of seats) they should work. Does that help...any? For reference, I have a '96, and installed '98 seats, and the '98 buckles did NOT work w/the '96 belts so had to swap over my '96 buckle too.

^- He's using a SOHC EJ251....heads are the issue - not the block.

HI, The Ej22 heads/EJ251 block will be a 'franken engine" and raise comp to over 10:1. You'll want to run Premium. I think you can run the STi 2.5 HG w/the Ej25D/EJ251 combo....read up on NASIOC. GL, TD

Searched on Google for "subaru airbag replacement" and found this: http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1984321 GL, Td

HI, Yes, from what I've read you'll need the airbag controller (@ least), too....but keep Searching on here/online, as it's been covered. GL, Td

With the FWD fuse installed/inserted in fuse holder, do you have FWD ONLY or does the torque bind go away (assuming it has TB)? If so, it's mechanical. If the fuse makes NO difference in the AWD funtion than it's electrical. TD codes: Trouble Code Table Trouble Code 11 Duty solenoid A 12 Duty solenoid B 13 Shift solenoid 3 14 Shift solenoid 2 15 Shift solenoid 1 21 ATF temp sensor 22 Atmospheric sensor 23 Engine revolution signal 24 Duty solenoid C 25 Engine torque control signal 31 Throttle sensor 32 Vehicle speed sensor 1 33 Vehicle speed sensor 2

Hi, Are you asking because you don't understand what the CTS does? Or some other reason? If the sensor is bad, it's mis-reading the engine temperature and supply the ECU w/mis-information. The ECU then gives the engine too much/not enough fuel which causes it to run poorly when cold. Once the car warms up the CTS may be 'accurate' enough that engine runs normally. There's also the open vs. closed loop ECU function, but I barely understand that myself so won't bother explaining! The CTS is a cheap part (no need for OEM from what I've read), but kind a of PITA to replace. After 11 years it's a good thing to replace regardless. GL, TD

Last tune-up w/NGK plugs and wires? Not in order: 1. CTS - coolant temp sensor 2. MAF 3. Catalytic converters 4. Fuel filter 5. etc? 6. valve adjustment due @ 105K miles, too For curiosity's sake, when were the HG replaced?

See attached. The mark on the BACK of the crank sprocket tooth is the one most miss. don't use the arrow.

I'd find one specifically for UPstream. I neglected to spec which location. ????