wtdash

Hi, IMHO, your referring to 2 different issues, and there are 2 different versions of the HG leak to consider. Oil leaks are common from various places on ALL Subaru engines: - Oil pressure sensor/sender - Cam Seals - front and rear - Crank / Oil pump seal - Rear separator plate - Rear main seal - Valve (rocker) cover gasket - Spark plug hole gasket - Etc. These aren't necessarily going to cause engine damage, as long as the oil level is maintained. The oil does usually find its way to the exhaust and cause the car to stink of burnt oil. Head gaskets are not to be taken lightly as ignoring them usually leads to more expen$ive repair$. Repeated overheating of the engine causes the bottom-end crankshaft bearings to get worn and causes 'rod knock' and this requires a complete rebuild....unless the rod completely breaks and destroys the engine block - then it's a new(er) engine. The original '96-'99 engines 2.5L / EJ25D engines (aka Phase 1) had the INternal leaks, and most symptoms were indirectly evident, such as overheating and bubbles in the coolant overflow tank, etc. The '99+ EJ251/EJ253 and EJ222 (Phase 2) had the EXternal leaks, and visually could be identified when leaking - although they also had similar symptoms to watch out for. For ANY USED SUBARU w/a 2.5L engine (and to a lesser degree the 2.2L engine), if you can't document the HG repair, you're chances of it failing are......imminent. And there are plenty of posts online about poorly done or just plain bad luck even after getting the HG repaired, w/it either failing again or the rod knock occurring shortly after the HG repair. I personally had a '98 EJ25D that had previously had the HG fail twice b4 I bought it. I fixed it and got another 30K miles b4 rod knock took it out of its misery. If you find a Subaru that states: 'New (or newer) engine installed' - Be WARY that it was indeed 'new' and how many miles. If they installed a newer engine, it'll likely need HG @ sometime in its life. Also be wary of the Subaru JDM-replacement engine as it is no guarantee either. HG can fail on those too .... I bought a used 2001 Subaru 2.5L w/100K miles for an Outback that had rod knock. I purposely redid the HG before I installed it to (hopefully) ensure I wouldn't have to touch the engine again....so far, so good after 30K miles. So...Caveat Emptor.

Hi, Actually there is a difference due to a change in the head design, I believe. See (and view the differences) this LINK on NASIOC. I came across these differences when considering an engine swap, here's what I found: If the dealer stated the 11044AA770 SUPERSEDED than that 'appears' to be wrong, and the link above shows why (ports don't match). But I don't know how this affects your SOHC NA application.

It will definitely FIT, but you may need to swap the Intake Manifold (MAF vs. MAP and EGR), and obviously the FW/Clutch disk/PP (and new pilot bearing) for the 5-speed and the cam and crank sensors were rumored to change around 2003? (EDIT: cam and crank were '00 per 'ccrinc' above....but that's the earliest I've ever read???) Td

Hi, The local yard SHOULD have interchange for this. Look on car-part.com for interchange, too. Remember, the '96-'99 OB/GT (?) had the raisED roof, which may affect this, but a quick look on car-part shows any will fit. I did this rear hatch swap for the same reason on my step-son's '96 Brighton. We removed the wiring from the old rear gate / hatch b4 removal and reinstalled it on the new(er) gate - we did NOT cut anything....not hard, just tedious. Here's another THREAD on here to review.

Hi, go here: http://opposedforces.com/parts/impreza/ Choose your year range from the European or US. And for the 1.6, FWD; DL model: http://opposedforces.com/parts/impreza/en_g10/type_1/manual_transmission/clutch/illustration_1/ This is a Subaru parts site that might be useful for part lookup...if they are the same for US and EU. GL, TD

Borrowed pic from above post: On the attached pic see arrow to where extra wire needs inserted to 'ground' pin and turn on Power Mode. Here's a LINK to this as well.

The 'cushions' (rubber part) - as Subaru calls them, are the same. The brackets they mount to are not. Mounts -see attached. Part numbers: Bracket complete-front, right 1 41031FA000 alternate: 41031FA080 Bracket complete-front left 1 41031FA010 alternate: 41031FA090 '93, October — '95, June '94, November — '96, June '95, December — '97, July '96, July — '98, May

>>Google EJ22 engine mounts and you'll see how they look. (my work blocks most pics so no links.)<< #1 thing to do on any 4EAT is to get a Trans Cooler. #2 - Don't brake-launch - The non-turbo will work if you respect it and don't plan on upping the boost/fun factor. But seriously, I'd consider the EJ25-based 4EATs to be the way to go.... Stock hp/torque were closer to the Turbo's: 165/162 vs. 160/181. Also, if you came across an SVX trans - w/KNOWN history - and rear diff (3.55?), it is supposedly got the same beefier internals as the SS/TW 4EAT. TCU: This is debatable....as I've tried both in an AT swap (turbo trans into an NA car) I did and didn't really matter, but I've NOT done any thing outside of the '90-'94 models either. I'd get it and see which one shifts better. FD ratio: Yes, must match. OH...and a 'gotcha'. If you go w/the newer '95+ 4.11 or 4.44 rear diff, the Rear Pinion Flange (where the drive shaft/drive line connects) has a changed bolt pattern. That flange can be removed, but it's got a big nut and seems to be 'pressed on' so it's tough to remove.

Since it's an EJ255 (turbo), it's probably a blown ringland, which is not knock. I'm no expert on this, but 'think' it depends on how badly the cylinder walls are damaged, correct? They need bored>honed and then measured. Subaru sells .020 and .040 oversized pistons, I believe. td

Just for reference, the 'F' means it was made in the USA, but is compatible - as you discovered. - Early USDM Legacys were made in the USA and Japan (except for '91-'94 turbo models were all from Japan) - as were their components. - The MAF sensors also have an 'F' version for the US-made part, FWIW. glad you're back up and running. Td

HI, Yes, w/the Green connectors connected the sensors on/around the engine will cycle on/off, including the fans....that's normal to tell you they're working (or not). On the older Subarus pre-95, the green connectors could be used to diagnose AND clear codes. I'm not sure if that applies to the '95+ models. Td

- Been there, done some of that: >>Motor mounts are not different. Either they weren't on correctly (no offense) or they're from a non-subaru, as they were interchangeable for many years and models (EJ = EJ). >> Get yourself over to Legacy Central -here's the ECU pinout. >> Turbo trans will be tough to find...hopefully someone is doing a swap. FWIW you can use a NON-turbo 4EAT from a '92-'94 as they also have the 3.90. Or a '90/'91 and '95-'98 from any 2.2 Subaru will work IF you change the rear diff to match the 4.11 FD ratio. ....and you could use the 4EAT from any '96-'98 EJ25 (Lsi, OB, GT, RS, Forester) if you swap to a 4.44 rear diff (The GT, LSi or RS would match your speedo the closest.) >>Disagree on the 'all-together' removal. Trans are a pain, but I've done 2-3 and just dropped the trans down and out....still a PITA, but patience helps. GL, TD

HI, Time to get your search on. RS25.com is another good resource and should have a dedicated thread for just this info. GL, TD

HI, Move or replace that injector, and see what happens. Otherwise, I'd get a leak down test to see how the valves are doing. These 2.5's are due for valve adjustments every 105K miles, so you may be (over) due, and if ignored for too long a valve can get burned (literally). Good luck, TD

Hi this is a common mistake that people make -phase 1 was 1990-1998. And just to be clear this is not the same as the OBD1 versus OBD2. All 1990-1996 had HLA in the heads. All 1997-1998 were screw adjusted. Phase 2 started in 1999. The only exception is that the 1999 Legacy outback and GT used the old double overhead cam heads with a phase 2 block and were compatible with the earlier electronics.

Valves: Adjust them: not too hard in the car...HERE. Other: Clean the MAF sensor and/or get another used one, Coolant Temp Sensor (CTS). >>>50K? Due for NGK plugs and NGK wires (only!)....and the other normal maintenance/tune up stuff. Td

And to offer some different advice.....cam sensor. See if any of this THREAD is familiar.

Hi and Welcome, What parts are you looking for and where are you looking? Seeing how interchangeable Subie's are for parts, I'm not clear on why you're having issues.....and I'm not being a jerk....just curious. The '97 was not a big conversion year for the EJ22e....still Phase 1, most changes were minor - single-port exhaust, interference pistons, ECU (?), etc. If you go HERE you'll find m a n u a l info. GL, Td

Just remembered that my dash button never lit up either...it was burned out....so that's not going to be necessarily a good 'indicator'. Td

Hi (jacker) The only part that i think 'cares' is the computer, so that's the unknown link in these scenarios: - MT vs. AT - OBD1 vs. OBD2 - Legacy vs. Impreza For future reference, attached is a pic of a Impeza CC. It has 'AT' on the label, so I'm 99% sure that it must @ least match the trans. ....THIS LISTING on ebay shows the same part for '93-'95...but Ebait isn't fool-proof. My only direct experience is when I did a 5-speed swap into a '90 Legacy. I had to change the CC computer. ...... Tangent: Before I did the 5-speed swap, I'd als done a turbo swap and the CC worked fine w/both an EJ22T ECU and EJ20G ECU....so my guess is the TCM 'talks' to the CC computer, too.

"95 was 1st year of obd2 legacys so I'm not sure if it"s compatible.

Hi, You need one of THESE - LINK...assuming it's the STOCK keyless system And there was a CD changer avl. in '98. It should be controlled by the stock deck in the console. And either go to a local Pull and Save (used auto parts), ebay or http://www.subaru.com/owners/index.html and create an account. You can't download the manual all @ once but can search it from the site....and download the parts you want/ each section. Td

Hi, Please go HERE and scroll to the attached images. The bottom RIGHT image has info related to your issue....and it's covered a LOT on subaruforester.org...is a common issue on the 1st Gen Foresters...it seems. Td

Hi, Just to cover our bases...you've installed ALL the CC components, correct? - Need actuator, computer, dash button, brake switch and clutch switch Yes...I 'think' the CC computer is specific to the transmission. It was on some older Legacys. And your '95 is the oddball*..It's an OBD1 - not OBD2 / OBDII - so it should work w/the '93-'95 5-speed version. GL, TD *The '95 AUTOMATiCs had a 2.2 and were OBD2, per cars101.com.