wtdash

HI, What year is your "2.2 1st gen" ? Is this the '90-'94 or all the '90-'98 models or? Are you in Europe, per your Sig? If so, may not be the same as US. For US cars, Most 2.2's w/5-speeds from '95-'99 did NOT have EGR; ALL 2.2 Autos and 2.5's did. You'll get a CEL if EGR is missing. To add to Larry's comments above, reseal the rear separator plate and leave the MAIN seal alone if not leaking. TD

....and listen for REAR wheel bearings, as they're another weak spot....and the Fuel Filler neck likes to get rusty in your 'hood (MidWest). GL, TD

^ He has WRX struts, which come w/205-55R/16 tires (@ least for the '02-'05) models. The 205-60R/15 are almost identical height/diam.to the 205-55R/16, so they'll fit. Look Here for sizes. BTW, you're speedo will be off. At 70mph on the speedo, you'll only be doing about 66MPH actual.

+1 ON the TMIC from an '06-'07 WRX or XT fit the easiest/best. Now that I see the pics, that pipe is probably easier to find here or on the LC website. I'll look thru my stash, too. Td

HI, Tangent: I suggest spending some time over on the Legacy Central site. Lots and lots (and lots) of info on the '90-'94 Legacy, including the '91-'94 turbo SS and TW models. I've got some good news and some bad news. If the piece that is cracked is the 90° elbow the FEEDS the turbo - between the airbox>>MAF>>silencer box, you can't buy that part anymore. Subaru stopped making it and the dealerships finally sold them all in the last few years. READ it HERE. I can't see pics @ work, so hopefully I'm wrong. People have come up w/workarounds but it's tough due to all the 'things' that multi-ported hose does. The good news is that the oil you're seeing is probably normal on a 20+ year old Legacy turbo. A couple other thoughts: - The turbos are usually pretty stout, if the engine is left stock. They're only pushing <9psi from the factory and seem to be reliable. And buying them used it's not as big a gamble as buying someone's over-boosted TD04 ('02 - '08 WRX, FXT, BAJA turbo).* Rebuilding is probably a waste of $$. - Most of the hoses/pipes/wiring will be brittle on that engine - lots of heat = hard plastic. Expect to get creative as things break and need repaired due to Subaru discontinuing many of the parts. Good/better news is some of the newer WRX stuff will work.* And don't forget to look in the Parts Shed on Legacy Central - post a WTB thread. - Expect the nipples/connections on the turbo's coolant tank - by the brake booster - will break when you look @ them funny...touch w/care. Assuming yours is still the stock plastic/composite tank and not the newer metal or composite tanks from a WRX, et al. - The oil pooling could be from the oil sender/sensor below the power steering pump and/or could be P/S fluid (ATF). Both of those have a leaky history. * The TD04 on the models listed above is a good replacement for the VF11 - IF you can find one that's not worn out....Look on NASIOC.com for those. IT REQUIRES FABRICATION to make it work, but it'll work w/the stock ECU, injectors, boost setting, etc. and provides a slight power boost w/out having to worry about blowing up the engine. Other WRX and newer turbo'd Subarus also have potential upgrade parts that can be used as replacments, plus you can still order them new from Subaru. GL, TD

Hi, Is this a Legacy? There was no Touring Wagon (in the USA) 'til the '92 TW w/the turbo. Search online - probably best on Legacy Central - about cleaning the IAC / ISC - Idle air control / idle speed control - valve. You can also replace just the top portion....read up on that too. GL, Td

So, this doesn't create a 'Phase 2 / II ' Frankenstein / Franken Engine w/elevated CR? And since the HG needs to match the bore of the block, I'd look into using an '04-'07 STi HG....from what I've read online. TD

HI, 1996 was 1st year of higher GC, w/bigger tires, struts, etc.('95 was just another trim level). '96 also had the better EJ22e w/the 5-speed, or the EJ25D w/the Automatic. I'd start looking @ the '97+ years. GL, td

Hi Larry, I always 'suspect' that mechanical part that attaches to the pass. side of the trans - part of the cable...that only explains one sensor....maybe fix one>>>both? Td

HI, .02>>>>put the old one back on and/or use its 'setting' to compare to your replacement. Also, put the throttle/Cruise cables so there's no tension as the idle shouldn't be 'faked' w/the cable. The ecu handles it. Look for vacuum lines that are old/cracked/leaking. TD

and no offense to the local experts, but there's even more STi-specific info on NASIOC. GL, TD

Hi, Also, if you look HERE on LC, you can use the AT dropping resistor in place of the BCS/WG Solenoid - If you're running an MBC on the turbo. GL, TD

Good Site for Subarus..cars101.com And Yes, that does sound cheap for an '11....I'd be doing an Autocheck and/or Carfax.

HI, Welcome from US to UK. You're describing symptoms of the classic, infamous, notorious, ubiquitious, well-detailed, Head Gasket failure. Find another garage. Very common the US 2.5 engines, aka EJ25D, EJ251/2/3, etc. I'm guessing yours may have an EJ20/2.0 variant? It COULD be air in the system but whomever did your Tbelt/WP should've 'burped' the cooling system to avoid this. Are Head Gaskets (HG) not a common failure on EDM/European Domestic Market Subarus? BTW, every time that engine overheats, it's 'over-cooking' the rod bearings on the crankshaft, and shortening the engine's life each time. If the HG's do get fixed there's a high likelihood the rod bearings will give out shortly thereafter. May be time to look for a different set of wheels....as in Sell It. Tangent: I understand the Ford Focus RS is avl.......although I also read it's already Sold-out. :-)

+1 and cheap...non-OEM is fine. .....and I like that 'rough idling' list...Sticky, that should be.

Hi, I'm not a mech/tech either, but did your shade-tree mech bleed the brakes? If not, I'd do that, and note the Subaru-approved pattern - RF, LR, LF, RR......It is NOT the standard "Start from the furthest point" . Also, verify your brake lines are still in good shape....I don't know why they wouldn't be, but maybe up north?? Edit: I've got no info on the MC failing....I thought most cars had a 'fail-safe' in case it does..so you can still stop.

Hi, What Year is each car? - assuming they have the original engines. Td

Yes...if the header is Dual-Port it'll fit. The '98 RS used the SAME engine as your '97 OB - EJ25D. But a 'head-up' that sometimes these take some work to get aligned and gaskets leak....go read up on Rs25.com about UEL and EL headers' fitment. Td

This may point to a leaky fueil injector. I'd also replace the CTS, if not already done...they can show/test 'good' but be borderline and cause issues.

@ the risk....of over-simplifying, but will concur w/LMDEW. On both my '04 Forester and '96 Legacy, w/no working AC, I just replaced the Orings (auto parts store) where they connect to the compressor and recharged 'em w/refrig. Both work(ed) well and was less than $30. GL, Td

Car-part.com and Ebay. ....and I'd guess that any FWD TCU / TCM from '90-'96 might work (yes, even from an '95/'96 OBD2 car), since the AWD TCU's supposedly interchange as well. GL, Td Reference: Trouble Code Item 11 Duty solenoid A 12 Duty solenoid B 13 Shift solenoid 3 14 Shift solenoid 2 15 Shift solenoid 1 21 ATF temp sensor 22 Atmospheric sensor 23 Engine revolution signal 24 Duty solenoid C 25 Engine torque control signal 31 Throttle sensor 32 Vehicle speed sensor 1 33 Vehicle speed sensor 2

Listed elsewhere on the Web, too: '90-'91 NON-turbo/NA both 4eAT and 5-speed are 4.11. '92-'94 NA 4EAT are 3.90; 5-speed 4.11 '91-'94 Turbo 4EAT and 5-speed are ALL 3.90 (including the One-year ONLY '91 w/the rear VLSD) - Sedans (SS) and Touring Wagons (TW). I'd put the FWD fuse in until you can swap the rear diff. And you can use one from a '95-'99 Legacy, Impreza 2.2 4EAT or 2.5 5-speed (both are 4.11, and none had VLSD's), BUT the rear diff's pinion flange bolt pattern changed in '95-ish. You'll want a Puller to remove the flange - on their tight. Driveline is too long to swap, but do some research as you 'might' be able to use the front portion of the '91 w/the rear portion of a '95+ to make it fit. GL, Td

Is it overheating? If not, then try WW's suggestion...but one good overheat and the block can be scrap.....about 5K miles AFTER you do those HG's. This is my recommendation. I wouldn't install any used 2.5 w/out doing the HG and Tbelt, etc. b4 install.

HI, For future reference, it's good practice to keep all related posts in the same Thread so anyone that's replied gets notified of new posts. If you're doing this on a 'smart' phone, I've had trouble Adding/editing to existing threads. If you've not figured this out, then perhaps the cable is wrong or your install is wrong. I'd need to see a pic of what isn't working to understand it. GL, Td

Hi, Assuming you have a '90-'94 Legacy or '92-'94 Impreza - w/the Manual button. Could be the cable, but likely the TAB @ the end of the cable gear on the Trans side broke off. A bad VSS (vehicle speed sensor) will cause the car to go into 'limp' mode, IIRC - as it 'reports' to the ECU. Yours won't have the electrical connector (unless it's '95+) but the part that screws inis the same: But if pulling the FWD fuse helped it could also be a bad front diff, bad CV, or ? GL, TD