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^+1 Hi, Do the Kiwis have an 'interchange' system? We have car-part.com (one example) that has all USED vehicles and will show parts that interchange. I'd also compare the trans ID label on the bell housing...starts w/a TZ for Automatics, in USA...also on the VIN plate by the driver's (passengers for NZ?) strut tower under the hood in USA. Like this (TY is manual/5-speed): GL, TD

- Clean the MAF w/the MAF spray - don't use brake cleaner or anything w/too strong a spray. - Clean the IAC - Tune up time? Td

+1 Limp mode

Use the one that matches the trans....but doubt it matters. ARe they both hydraulic clutches? 2.2 on earlier years was cable; 2.5 were hydro. You have the single-port exhaust y-pipe for the 2.2.? Td

+1 on the P/S pump and/or fluid.

Hi and Welcome, '96 OB had a 2.5 w/the AT and 2.2 w/the 5-speed. 2.2 is NON-interference - if you're so lucky? Also, should be be a CODE stored in the ECU, get a hold of an OBDII scanner and check it. TD

Hi, This doesn't help...now...but did you look @ swapping the throttle body from your '94 1.8 and running it w/the stock ECU on the 2.5? It should've been good to go....but I've not had the pleasure of working on the 1.8 so may not swap.....? Google this: OBD1 JDM 1995 Legacy 2.5 ECU And look under the Rs25.com results. There are others that have done this.....and this one: http://www.rs25.com/forums/f72/t69103-1995-jdm-n-2-5-ecu-into-1995-usdm-n-1-8-car.html GL, TD

Install here: http://www.subaruforester.org/vbulletin/f115/td-s-sf-73979/#post826982 DeatschWerks or Walbro are $100 w/the install kit.

Tangent...interesting the EJ221 - I thought they were EJ222.

Yeah....it'd be if that site goes offline. I can't get to it from work, due to our Firewall, but works from phone and home. If I had 'mad skilz' w/the 'puter I'd grab the whole site for posterity. I had to put in opposedforces.com for it to come up; NO WWW. prefix.

^+1 on axles. For whatever reason the '05-09 seem to wear out axles about 100K. Yours may be due or were done w/cheap replacements. soob-experienced mechanic = Subaru experienced mechanic. Many on here, myself included, prefer a seasoned/trained/etc Subaru mech/tech to work on our cars. Subarus aren't hard to work on, but to save time on diagnostics - and return trips for repairs - you'll be ahead of the game. And not necessarily a dealer, but an independent (indie) shop. And PLEASE change your OIL often - every 3K miles, make sure the filter screens on the oil lines to the heads and turbo are removed, use the best Top Tier fuel w/the 92 Octane (or highest avl. in UT), and do some more research on keeping that turbo engine (EJ255) healthy. If the turbo starts to make noises, do NOT wait to replace it (VF40 model). The turbo in yours doesn't have the best reputation for longevity and when it starts to fail it can throw its broken parts into the engine. - not good. Td

- Trans, Seats, suspension, wheels/tires, should be good. - I don't know about the dash or Back doors - unlikely as body style changed in '03. - I'd also wonder if the driveline/shaft will fit....but probably as I don't think the wheelbase changed (much). Use the '00 or '98. ( you refer to both years??)

Learn something new every day! Thanks

No...see the pics attached in 1st post. I have the stock '96 EJ22e IM installed - w/the EGR valve. I have the one-way valve installed on this and is working fine - @ 5psi. "...with BOOST going..."? or what is 'host'.

Per cars101.com, 2013 was still the 4EAT - No CVT>>2014. From the 2013 OM - section 9-18:

Yes.........our buddies on LegacyCentral.org have a good thread on it: http://bbs.legacycentral.org/viewtopic.php?f=5&t=44555 Td

I see you're in Canda - Nova Scotia?- and pay more than us, but Imprezas start @ $18K new down here in the US....so just for grins, I'd compare this used Impreza to their cheapest new Impreza, if @ a Subaru dealership. Also, the Kelley Blue Book I use in the US has 3 values for their online pricing - Trade-In, Private Party (no dealers), Retail (used or new dealership). I'd work from the Private Party price.

FYI - there are different ways to replace the axle, but you must gain clearance by disconnecting the ball-joint, top strut bolt, or maybe another way. I always remove the TOP 'camber' strut bolt (loosen the bottom) and to AVOID needing an alignment I always mark its location PRIOR to removing it, and just put it back where it was. It's always been close enough to not mess up the alignment. And don't use too small of a punch to remove the roll pin on the inner part of the CV...it'll stick in the hole and you'll be....upset. GL, td

It's been a few years...but IIRC: - Drain the fluid, Drop the exhaust, loosen the pitchstop, and engine mount nuts (so engine can move w/the trans), remove the trans crossmember (or maybe just its bolts to the body) while supporting the trans w/a jack, tilt the trans down, remove the housing bolts, CAREFUL w/the parking pawl - it'll try to escape...for starters. I'd also recommend replacing the Duty C solenoid while you're in there - $100 new OEM (?), a new gasket for the housing and make sure the transfer clutches aren't worn....look up torque bind and you can see pics, if not familiar. GL, TD

Sir, Please get yourself a code reader, and help us help you. :-) congrats on the new ride! Td

Under the dash - usually near driver's right knee- are two green connectors, when plugged together - Key in ON, Engine OFF position- it causes all relays, sensors, rad fans, etc. to cycle. I would 'think' it'd cycle the Fuel Pump Relay too. Other than checking the wiring from the FP - under rear seat ? - I don't have anything else. GL, Td

^ It fixed my '98 and it was free. Thanks

FWD fuse location is shown on page 12-8 - under Specifications. site for downloads: https://carmanuals2.com/brand/subaru

You're lucky - P**ker Subaru in N. ID charges MORE than retail....anything over $20 is cheaper to order from Jason Douglas and have shipped.

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