wtdash

+1 And not being condescending, just take it or leave it : Anything above 60 decreases MPG (except a good tail wind or downhill). Math/physics for the day: "drag should be proportional to the square of speed" FuelEconomy.gov states 25 Auto/26 5-speed on the highway, but 27-28 should be doable. Roof-top carrier? They're not so good for MPG either.

Hi, There are a couple other posts on this same topic posted recently (you should all form a group! :-) ), they may have more info. I'd think you'd need the ECU to match the trans - @ least. Also, seems to me I read that some Subies around year 2000 started using trans-specific ABS units which would make this even tougher. Going from 5-speed to Auto is much harder, due to the extra 'stuff', electronics-wise, IMHO. If you and your friend are mech Wiz, then maybe no issue. i'd go search on RS25.com and NASIOC.com as the Impreza bunch like to do this stuff more often, and 99% of the info is transferable - year to year. GL, Td

HI, I don't have any experience w/the 2000+ EGR systems and IAC and converting to NON-EGR. The main idea is to find an intake hose that is NOT a breather hose coming off the heads or PCV hose coming off the block. It'll suck in the oil fumes and you'll be known as the 'blue bomber' in your 'hood.....Yes, matter of fact I DID do that. :-) It does sound like your referring to fuel lines or possibly vacuum lines. I would 'think' you could put a hole in the intake - after the air filter - put in one of those plastic hose barbs w/a rubber grommet sized to fit the hole, and run a line to the EGR hard line that normally goes to the head???? Make sense? Or if there's another port on the intake, just "T" off of it. GL, TD

Hi, If you head on over to NASIOC.com, you'll found lots of 'valve cover' posts as it's dedicated to the Impreza/WRX/ STi. HERE's ONE. The valve cover is AKA 'rocker cover' in Subaru lingo. GL, Td

Hi, I might not be following what you mean by 'gusset', but there are 4 screws that hold on the mirror assembly....one is almost under the door card...easier to probably remove it to gain access, but been awhile since I've done one. Should all be bronze colored Phillips head screws. i can't search images @ work but Google it for pics. LINK1 GL, TD

Hi, Yes...more the better. It doesn't need to be expensive ATF either....the Walmart DEXIII compatible works OK, IMHO. And if you notice an improvement you can go back and do the 'drain/refill/drive/repeat x 3' routine w/better stuff. In addition, ensure you MANUALLY SHIFT thru all the gears when driving it..including Reverse (if not obvious). And it's noted in the Owner's Manual, too, that after an ATF change the trans has to 'recalibrate/relearn/something' for the new fluid, so give it a few drive cycles AFTER you've done the drain/refill/drives to shift normally. And from my personal experience, Do NOT power flush a higher mileage Subaru trans....it may actually cause the trans' internal seals to leak, which will result in a dead trans....Just do the drain/refills. If you do have leaks around the pan, grab a 10mm wrench and LIGHTLY snug up the multiple bolts that hold it on....it helped mine. TD

Hi, Actually, I'd be concerned about the rod bearings. They wear out when OH and if you're 'lucky' you'll get rod knock warning you it's 'End of Life' time, rather than a rod that decides to break free and bust thru the block...real bad. If your options include a used 2.2 vs. 2.5, the 200K isn't as scary, but buying another EJ25D w/those miles is more of a gamble. But in either case, i wouldn't install anything w/out doing new HG's anyway.......cheap(er) insurance. GL, TD

Hi, Fix the Check Engine Light/CEL, as you're Cruise won't work 'til then. The ECU (computer) has a limp-mode/fail-safe option so you can't use the Cruise when the CEL is on, and the Cruise light blinks to let you know there's an issue. Fix/replace the 02 sensor code and you're back in business. Td

Hi, Yes.....smaller, is probably correct. I know I did the 'ghetto' fix on my '90 Wagon when I installed '97 OB struts. I just enlarged/moved the rear bolt holes to accomodate the OB's bolt pattern....FWIW, I suggest Only messing w/the two outer bolt holes as it's a tight fight up in there and if you move the inner-most bolt hole the strut/spring will likely rub the body.

Hi, That depends on your commitment to the project, space to work on it (and a warm garage, esp. if Eastern WA) and avl. time. :-) There are still a lot '95-'99 Legacys on the road, but they're getting their miles on. So, you could probably pick up one that's worn but not trashed for $1K, and swap your good parts over. Have Fun, Td

Hi, Yeah...the '90-'94 Legacy and and '93-'01 Impreza REAR top hat /strut top bolt patterns are the same (although the spring perches are lower, and springs are therefore different on '90-'91 Legacy, I believe). GL, Td

1. Is the AT light blinking 16 times @ startup? Yes? There's a code stored in the TCU - trans computer. Search on here. 2. Check your ATF level. The difference between L and F on the dipstick is about 1/2 Qt, so doesn't take much. 3. Is the CEL light on? Check the Codes. Search on here. 4. Trans may be dead....it's acting like the ones I've had/seen that failed. 5. Due the "3 Drain ATF/Refill/Drive thru all gears" cycle. May get lucky. GL, TD

Hi, Do the 60K service. Preferably @ a Subie shop - indie is OK vs. dealer$hip. Also, if you didn't get a CARFAX from the dealer (not an Autocheck), order one up as it MAY show the car's service history. FWIW, Most Subarus sold in the US are built in the US, AFAIK. GL, TD

Hi and Welcome, Not the expert, but there's a AT Shift Lock sensor under the dash that that requires the brake pedal to be depressed to shift and is somehow connected to the ignition - it could be broken, but that's (really) rare. Disconnecting the NEGative battery terminal may reset it...but not sure. Also, you could try accessing the shift lock override button under the cover console for the AT shifter - it's shown in the Owner's Manaul, IIRC. It may be 'hung up' causing similar issues. GL, Td

What is this 'fan crack pop' of which you speak? I'm confused too. You're actually pulling the timing covers off, and doing what amounts to a timing belt job each time b4 you start it again? Since the XT is the DOHC engine, it's a PITA to do the t-belt so this must be getting old.... And pull the codes from the ECU....I'd imagine there's 1 or 10 stored. Let us know... Td

HI, I was always under the impression that on Subarus prior to 2004-ish, if the OIL light comes on, it's too late?? It's not there to tell you to add oil, but that it's OUT OF OIL. Overheating = head gaskets. Low oil and knocking = rod bearing failue. These two are usually connected, @ least on the 2.5 engine. That's my 'devil's advocate' opinion. GL, TD

Will the 2000-2004 Outback FRONT struts work on the '96-'99 Legacy Outback, too? I know the rears will not due to the change to multi-link w/shocks and springs...from Mac struts. HIt me w/the Search stick if you find it...two days of trolling the Subie sites hasn't yielded an answer. Thanks

/Possible tangent, but throwing it out there: I have '96 Legacy 2.2 L SEDAN that has the Charcoal Canister (CC) in the REAR, underneath on the passenger side; not under the hood in the front passenger side. A '96 Outback 2.5 ECU would NOT work as the CC is in the front and caused a purge valve CEL; a '99 EJ25D ECU didn't work and caused multiple CEL's - as noted above it's looking for '99 TCU/TCM, too. I ended up using a '98 EJ25D GT/OB ECU as it has the CC in the rear and matches my '96 config. (Running an EJ25D ECU for more fuel (i hope) for my turbo.) This may be unique to the '96 EJ22 Sedan version, but may want to make sure yours matches if you choose to go to a different year. /End Tangent

Usually?? It's suggested to replace pads w/rotors so they 'wear (bed-in) together', but I've done it both ways and seems to work fine. I'd still bed-in the new rotors w/the old pads if you do that. To add to the above. - The rotors are not bolted on directly (NO offense, Rooster), they're held on by the wheels+lug bolts, but they do get 'sticky' so follow the above. - This is for '90-2004 Subies (I've not worked on anything newer). - The calipers should be supported by some wire, rope, etc. so there's no strain on the brake lines. - Remove the cap, or @ least loosen it (to keep out water, etc) on the Brake Master Cylinder as you'll need to compress the calipers' pistons to make room for the new, thicker parts, which pushes the fluid back in the MC - this applies to both rotors only and rotors+pads. Make sure it's not already full. - You do NOT need to bleed the brakes as you're not disconnecting the brake lines, but if you don't know the age of your brake fluid now's a good time to bleed them - If you have a helper. Bleed: RF, LR, LF, RR (Not like most cars). But since you live in the Land of Rust (PA), you may not want to even touch those bleed screws if they're rusty. GL, td

Scroll down to Section 4-1 HERE to see the FSM for the Pneumatic suspension.

"dropping the tank" may not be on your 'to do' list either. IIRC, it's not just a strap to release it. More like the whole rear suspension/drive shaft/rear diff? Recommend more searching on that, too. Acces to both is on top right behind the rear seats - pull up the carpet pads. Td

Hi, You see THIS? I'd see if it'd work on your newer model. Saves a lot of work.

Hi, Common enough issue in the '90s Legacy that you'll find more posts on here/online. There are two floats - left and right - that determine how the gauge displays, and they wear out/get corroded on their sensor. You'll want to do more online searching to determine which one is most likely causing the issue. I have read about using different types of fuel additives (?) that may help w/this, and I personally have noticed mine works better since I changed to a Top Tier fuel (Costco), but it still shows prematurely low. GL, TD

Hi, There's more info on this system on the Legacy Central website as well, http://bbs.legacycentral.org/, but essentially the bladders (?) don't hold air. If you CAN even buy parts they're $$x$$, so plan on just replacing it w/stock suspension. If you need a lift, there are multiple posts online on LIFTing the 1st Gen ('90-'94) to match the '96-'99 Outback. GL, Td

Cars101.com is good resource: http://www.cars101.com/subaru/forester/forester2014.html#specs 2014 was the first year for the 2.0XT, so not going to have the history of the 2.5, although it's still a youngun' compared to the EJ-series it replaced. I know the NA 2.5 is one of CR's top-rated SUV's for MPG: CR Overall 26 mpg City 18 / Hwy 35 mpg The XT's CVT gets 23 City/28 Hwy/25 Overall from Cars101.com, (which sounds a bit optimistic?). C/D got 22 overall. Same engine is used in the 2015+ WRX, so may be worth a stroll thru the NASIOC.com website.