wtdash

There is another post on here today w/the smell of fuel. His was a loose plug wire, but he had a rough idle. I'd check your plugs and wires - easy stuff - first. Check for vac leaks? Was the HG replaced w/engine in the car? Just wondering if all the 'stuff' got reconnected if it was pulled. No CEL's correct? Td

- 5-speed only avl. on non-turbo version. - Will you carry others/lots of stuff into the mtns? If so you'll want the turbo. Remember, as noted above, altitude affects NA cars more than turbo cars, so if the NA cars feels strong in Sacramento, it'll feel 'less so' in the Sierras. Edit: Going from basically sea level to 6k feet, will be noticeable. - The WRX, which is very similar mechanically to the XT/Turbo, has seen a decline in reliability on CR on the '09 model and is Below Average, whereas the XT is just Average. The non-turbo Impreza is Better than Average, and the Forester is Much Better than Average. - I'd get a 100K extended warranty on the XT model, just for peace of mind. That'll cover your 7 years/14K a year usage. GL, TD

Hi, I found This LINK that shows the '99 was an odd year for the MAF sensor. The 2.2/EJ22 Legacy and the EJ22/EJ25 Impreza/Forester used your 22680AA29A. But they were also used by: 2002-2000 Infiniti G20 2001-2000 Infiniti I30 2001-2000 Nissan Maxima 2001-2000 Nissan Sentra 2.0 Liters Which means you may find one @ a local used parts/wrecking yard. Also, there was a recall on the MAF sensors on the Forester - maybe on the Legacy, too....check this LINK. I'd call your local Subaru dealer, tell them your VIN # and see if the recall has been taken care of. Gl, TD

Cool! Sounds like you need a new mechanic! The unburned fuel (smell) was the clue...he just went to fuel pump vs. ignition issue. TD

Hi, Since no one who knows for sure has responded, I'll suggest that the FP could be the culprit even @ 105K. On older Subies the fuel pump is accessed from the top - directly behind the rear seats, pull up the carpet and there should be a cover. Remove that and you'll see the top of the fuel pump assembly. Like THIS. And another LINK for the older Outbacks. GL, Td

Google is your friend! Compression: Here's one proper way, per a Google search: -Make sure the engine has been warmed up before beginning the test, to ensure that the oil has been warmed up. A cold engine will not test correctly. -Disable the ignition module or coil. -Insert the compression tester into one cylinder spark plug hole at a time. -Hold the throttle to full open position to ensure the engine gets adequate air intake. -Crank the engine continually for at least five to 10 full revolutions to obtain an accurate reading on the compression tester. -Record the reading for each cylinder. If any of them vary 10 percent or more from each other a problem may exist in one or more cylinders. If the variance is greater than 10 percent, specialized testing equipment may be required to fully diagnose the problem. -If all cylinder readings are within 10 percent of each other, no further testing is required and compression is considered optimal. Not sure what the NA compression reading should be, but appears having them all w/in 10% is more important than the actual #???....(Turbos compression is about 150psi) Idle screw: I don't have FSM info for the '90-91 (check THIS ), but does the TPS have white marks on the side screws? Are they lined up? If so, maybe the TPS wasn't touched and you can just adjust the idle screw so RPMs are about 700. Do it a bit and let it settle...@ least on mine it was slow to respond. Timing: Check this LINK . (Anyone know what happened to Endwrench?) Here's ONE w/PICs. Keep @ it, TD

Correct...not 'sposed to touch the TB's top screw. They were only on the '90-91 cars, BTW. Sounds like yours has been messed with....should be a post or 2 on here about it. Also, check out the Legacy Central BBS, which is specific to the '89-94 Legacy. The '90-91 Autos had gray top injectors; the 5-speeds were different. No offense to Twitch, but I think you could use any year from '90-94, but you'll need the fuel rails AND injectors for the '90-91 5-speeds or '92-94 as they are different. (PM me if you need injectors.) Also, I hope it doesn't sound like we're asking you to 'throw parts @ it', but everything mentioned has been a useful fix/upgrade on others' cars, and helps eliminate existing issues and future problems. I'd put money on the KS as causing most of your issues...a cracked KS will put the car in 'limp' mode....although @ that point you'd likely get a code. The '95 ('96?) got an upgrade KS w/a white connector, which may be on a used '89-94 that has been fixed....just an option if a used one is avl. GL, TD

Unfortunately, Misfires are common on the '97-99 EJ25. Check the threads on here for what others have done to fix it...or that didn't fix it. :-( Yes, a burnt valve would cause it, but should show up in a poor idle, etc. New OEM plugs and wires? Add those if not. GL, Td

Welcome aboard. Install the new parts and let us know. HIGHLY suggested to use OEM plugs/wires, if you've not already read that on here. Subies are picky that way. NGK and Magnecor are OK replacements, too, IMHO. GL, Td P.s. Telluride is an amazing place!

Can you use a brass/metal 90° piece to connect @ the corners? Like below? They are probably cheaper than an OEM hose. I've cut the hardened parts off hoses and reused them (may be too ghetto, though).

Don't know the rating, but I'd guess around 100-110lph. If you check out my Forester link above you can see how it connected via a plug....I've only dealt w/my '90 Legacy and '98 Forester - both had plugs. So yours was like this? This a kit from Ebay.: A look online shows both plugs and bolt-on connectors....my 'guess' is yours has been replaced by the PO?? I didn't see any pics of OB fuel pump assemblies in a quick Google check. Td

Do the H6 need a valve adjustment? If so, might be worth it to get it all done while in there anyway. I would imagine THAT would add up too....24 valves? My .02. GL, Td

Since I can't update the original thread, i'll add it here. I replaced the starter w/a known good used one w/79K - maybe a little better, but not much. I was then messing w/the Neg. battery terminal and noticed there is a plastic piece that's like a 'guard' around the bottom and causes the terminal to sit 1/8" up on the post. I decided to 'risk it' and cut it off, then reattached the terminal to the post. Besides sitting lower on the post it also allows it tighten up better, as the post appears to be slightly tapered. Results? It cranks better/stronger/faster.....so I'm thinking I had a bad ground all along. TD

They are a common upgrade on turbo cars when upgrading the fuel injectors...I've not read about any reliability issues. I HAVE read they are noisy, but not on my Forester. There are different sizes, too - @ least a 195lph and 255lph. The 195 is plenty for any stock Subaru (including the WRX/STi - as their stock pumps flow around 175lph.) GL, TD

Walbro pumps are <$100, but overkill for a stock engine. I'm not sure about interchange, but NASIOC has 'em for sale, if a WRX/STi, low-mileage/used is an option - LINK - you may need an install kit. (I put an STi pump on my '90 Legacy, w/the aid of a Walbro install kit, IIRC.) Good luck and enjoy the new ride! Td

Yeah 'not worth the effort' is what I'm thinking now, too. Thanks!

I have the EJ25D (Phase 1, DOHC) out of my '98 Forester. It went thru 3 sets of head gaskets per the previous owner - the original set and 2 replacements. They used a local mechanic, in the middle of nowhere MT, who actually knew Subarus from our brief discussion. Supposedly the heads were machined and OEM HG used. But the fact that the HG blew twice leads me to think something else is wrong. The car ran, but not well, and I didn't do any compression tests, etc. before removing it. How do I test / verify / ensure the block is still good before getting the heads done and putting it back together for another project? Can the rod bearings be visually inspected (by a mechanic - not me)? Thanks, Td

Did you check the wiring while the pan was off? There is a POST (I can't find it!) about a dented AT fluid pan that I subscribed to on an Outback...my 1st swap I pushed up on the AT trans pan and dented it. This BROKE a wire that caused some issues - can't recall exactly what - it did also throw a code. Dropped the pan, repaired the wire and I was good to go. Just (another) thought.

Hmm...adding to hi-jack a good idea? Mid-1992 Legacy's got driver's-only airbags, as did the Impreza since its inception in '93. Both got Dual Air Bags in 1995. Source: Cars101.com

AT Trans fluid Capacity is 8.8 US Qts, per the FSM. Doesn't specify the TC capacity separately.

Just to clarify...the fluid shows on the dipstick, correct? It's a PITA to fill these 4EATs as the difference between Low and Full is about a pint, and fresh fluid can be hard to see on the 'stick...so it may still be low.

The EJ22 had the EGR valve on the Automatic, not the 5-speed, AND the dual-port exhaust heads in '95, which match your EJ25D exactly. The newer EJ22's work too, just make sure it has the EGR and their single-port exhaust header/Y-pipe. Other than minimal vac line rerouting, it's plug-n-play...the Forester's ECU will run it. Also, you checked your heat shields? They've been known to rattle....Just checking the simple stuff, too. GL, Td

Hi, Post your trans ID # so I/we can double-check trans vs. rear diff ratio, but if it drove fine AFTER the swap before acting up, that's not the issue. I briefly drove a car w/a 4.11 trans/3.90 rear dif and it wasn't as bad as you describe. On my own Legacy I had the delayed AWD engagement and fixed it by following the instructions on here to file down the grooves (POST) on the rear output shaft that hooks up to the tranfer clutches. But the fact that the FWD fuse does NOT help, means it's electrical or completely broken.....if the FWD fuse DID work, you'd get rid of the binding since the Duty C disconnects the rear drive....but the binding in a straight line has me puzzled..unless it completely destroyed the tranfer clutches???..... So.....if it's an electrical issue, look under there and see if you find something loose, etc. IIRC, the Duty C is enclosed in the rear housing (PIC), so unfortunately it has to come off to replace - you don't have to remove the trans to fix, but it's still a big job, IMHO. Also, you should be getting the 'Power light flashes' and can then check the codes. If you have a replacement rear housing, I recommend filing down the grooves b4 installing it...save some more grief later. GL TD

99.9% sure it's the roll-connector/ clockspring...same EXACT symptons on my '98 Forester - no Horn/Cruise/ABS light on. Replaced the CS and back in business. Pulling the steering wheel isn't that tough...getting the damn airbag connectors apart and fishing the harness wires out was a PITA though. You'll have no problem w/it. Couple of links for reference #1 and #2....may have to register (free) to see all the pics. GL, TD

Covered extensively on here.. Please SEARCH and come back w/questions. Td