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Hi, Post your trans ID # so I/we can double-check trans vs. rear diff ratio, but if it drove fine AFTER the swap before acting up, that's not the issue. I briefly drove a car w/a 4.11 trans/3.90 rear dif and it wasn't as bad as you describe. On my own Legacy I had the delayed AWD engagement and fixed it by following the instructions on here to file down the grooves (POST) on the rear output shaft that hooks up to the tranfer clutches. But the fact that the FWD fuse does NOT help, means it's electrical or completely broken.....if the FWD fuse DID work, you'd get rid of the binding since the Duty C disconnects the rear drive....but the binding in a straight line has me puzzled..unless it completely destroyed the tranfer clutches???..... So.....if it's an electrical issue, look under there and see if you find something loose, etc. IIRC, the Duty C is enclosed in the rear housing (PIC), so unfortunately it has to come off to replace - you don't have to remove the trans to fix, but it's still a big job, IMHO. Also, you should be getting the 'Power light flashes' and can then check the codes. If you have a replacement rear housing, I recommend filing down the grooves b4 installing it...save some more grief later. GL TD

99.9% sure it's the roll-connector/ clockspring...same EXACT symptons on my '98 Forester - no Horn/Cruise/ABS light on. Replaced the CS and back in business. Pulling the steering wheel isn't that tough...getting the damn airbag connectors apart and fishing the harness wires out was a PITA though. You'll have no problem w/it. Couple of links for reference #1 and #2....may have to register (free) to see all the pics. GL, TD

Covered extensively on here.. Please SEARCH and come back w/questions. Td

According to this site - right here on the USMB - the phase 2 EJ25 BLOCK started in '99 for all Subarus. The Legacy line - OB/GT - retained the DOHC heads; the rest went SOHC. (No, I don't know why. ) Edit#1: Our friends on SubaruForester.org confirm this HERE. Edit#2: I believe the Phase 2 had the 8 bolts between trans/engine as well. So, that leads me to believe that the '99 DOHC heads should swap over to an original '99+ SOHC engine....and that of course means the engine harness - on the DOHC intake manifold- can be reused to ensure all the sensors and wiring stay the same, which I'm guessing is why you want to swap heads? Edit#3: And since I'm one of many that have done it, you can still swap in a '95 EJ22 (block and heads) from an AT into the '99 Legacy OB/GT and it'll run like stock (just slower). Td

^+1 Stock boost is <9psi. Using an MBC it can be upped to 13 before hitting factory fuel cut. There are 'fuel cut defenders' which can let you go higher. 19psi is the 2-Bar MAP sensor max. The stock VF11 turbo is probably maxed around 14 anyway. Popular upgrade is a WRX TD04 and '06+ IC - but requires custom install to re-route hoses and wiring. You'll want to consider fuel pump and injector upgrades over 14 psi, too. Stock turbo 4EAT is stronger than 5-speed, from what I've read...as stated, keep it cool! The WRX suspension bits should work..not my strong point...there is good info on Legacy Central. GL, Td

The oil line to the turbo or the return line (a rubber-type hose) to the head could possibly develop a leak but neither requires replacing the turbo. Much more likely it's just a cam seal or similar. Has the T-belt been done? If not, that's a good excuse to reseal the easy to-get-to stuff. Side-jack: Yes, turbo cars are higher maintence...but once you're boost addicted you don't much care. :-) (Not sure the Loyale or Jetta (turbo diesel?) are good examples of turbo's performance advantage - they're both kinda slow in NA form anyway.)

Hi, Check out this POST on Legacy Central about 1/2 way down where there are links to the FSM testing of the TPS. Gl, TD

I know just enough to be dangerous, and a detailed explanation makes it useful for the next person w/an issue. I'll update this quote when I replace the starter, which sounds like the route to take. Thanks to all for you input....

I was looking @ it and it doesn't look OEM...I'd have to pull it be sure. I noticed that the Forester and Impreza used the same manual/5-speed starter from 1993 -2002, but the Legacy uses a different part number over the same years. Doesn't make sense to me as all the engines/transmissions pretty much interchange...anyone know if the Legacy/Impreza/Forester starters will interchange? Thanks

^^^Awesome info...thanks for the detailed explanation. TD

So, if the solenoid is/going bad, would it crank slowly? Or are they 2 different parts of the starter? Thanks, td

How to pull codes on 4EAT (@ least 90-94): http://www.surrealmirage.com/subaru/trans.html Thanks to JC/Legacy777 for the info.

I'll double-check...I may have missed it. The batteries are rated the same @ 625/525cca, IIRC. Both are right @ 2 years old, but different brands. Thanks, Todd

-1998 Forester w/162K miles (only owned it for a 1.5K of those miles) so don't know much about its history of maintenance. -When 1st starting it cranks slowly and finally starts after 2-3 seconds. It's bit better when warm. With winter coming, I'm worried it won't start @ all below 30. -I've checked my battery connections and cables - Re-tightened the starter cables - Swapped the battery w/my '90 Legacy - no difference - Legacy spins right up and starts almost instantly. -Fresh plugs, good wires, tried a different coil pack. -When starting this morning the starter didn't 'catch'...but did on the 2nd try. I think it's the starter solenoid not engaging the flywheel? There's a whirring/spinning noise, but the engine doesn't turn over. This has happened maybe 3-4 times over the last 2-3 weeks. I'm suspecting the Starter - unknown condition/age, but wanted to hear what else to check. I've read you can replace the 'brushes/contacts' in the starter/solenoid? Thanks Td

Great pics and weather! I'm no 'wheeler, but have been out a few times w/friends in their jeeps. Always lots of fun. Maybe when I get tired of playing w/my Subies, I'll give it a try. There are a ton of places to go up here in N. Idaho. Thanks, TD P.s. your Sig 'links' are broken.

Awesome link - Thanks! Great info comparing NA vs. Turbo. _____________________________________________________________ I've had the Misfire on my '96 2.2 Legacy Brighton....Car is 'at college' so can't trouble-shoot, but whenever it's home for a visit it more often than not throws the Misfire on # 2 on the way. - 2.5's may require the NGK Platinums, but even those can run the NGK Copper like the 2.2's, per my Subie mechanic....just such a PITA to change most put in the Plats to extend the replacement interval. Based on the # of Threads on the USMB, Misfires are common on the EJ's, even w/ the OEM plugs and wires. Must be another cause???? Td

YOU ARE THE WINNER. I'm not clear on Why, since I can't log my MAF voltage, but I swapped in a WRX MAF, which can flow more air before maxing out, and the Misfire is gone! Thanks for your and everyone else's input. Todd

Dude...You just read my mind, I was looking @ the Equus Innova 3160 5 mins ago.....and didn't catch that piece about the ABS for Big3 only. I'm comparing the 3130 and 3140(OBD1, too) after reading your post. Thanks, Td

This was recommended by a couple of tuners and is close to the stock WRX gap. I believe the stock EJ22T is same as the NA @ .044, but w/the higher boost levels (~18 psi) I expect to achieve, I was told to narrow the gap. Currently running the BK6RE; Had the PFR6B (JDM EJ20) in before. Thanks

Yeah, I keep finding things that should work, w/out the cost of the SSM...even some scary cheap ones on ebait. Thanks for the replies.

Edit: FWIW, I was able to use a 'home-built' SSM plug to USB adapter on my laptop with Evoscan. This POST shows the info. Used a FTDI chip cable to USB adapter along w/a Subaru Metra. The Evoscan has both OBD1 and OBD2 compatible ROM (?) files that'll work. The parameters aren't alll there (or functional) but I was able to log RPM vs. AFR's along w/a few other basic EcU functions. I posted in the wrong forum (WTH? Am I a Noob?) about scan tools for issues on my '98 Forester HERE. After searching for a couple of days it appears there are multiple versions of the SSM. And it appears that '99 was a change-over year, @ least on Imprezas, and probably Foresters. Anyone know for sure? I need to be able to do real-time data logging and some of the 3rd-party software supports the SSM (such as ecuExplorer), but appears to depend on the version. Thanks!

Plugs were brand new and gapped per the Tuner's recommendation - .030. Wires aren't new but only 1-2 years old. I should've included that info in the OP. Please see above.

Hi, I'm trying to tune my '98 Forester w/a Greddy Emanage Ultimate Piggy-back system after installing a turbo along w/other supporting mods....it is connected to the stock ECU. Whenever I get to 4800-ish RPM the car starts to stumble and run poorly and if I keep my foot in it throws Misfire codes on all 4 cylinders. Otherwise, the car runs well. I was @ tuning shop this weekend and the tuner's software didn't go back far enough to read what the ECU was doing in real time, so we couldn't figure out what it might be doing/seeing to cause it to misfire. Is there anything I can use to see what the ECU is doing in 'real time'? Background info: Here's the good news from yesterday's Dyno tune in Arlington, WA (near Seattle) - I'm in N. Idaho: 1. About 230/230 @ 13 psi. My goal was 250/250 @ 18psi - maybe even 20psi- which we almost reached @ just 13, so there's a possibility I can see 275/275. 2. The car cruised over and back mostly trouble-free. It threw the Misfire code climbing the pass on the way over, even though I tried to stay out of boost. Bad News: 1. Couldn't duplicate it consistenly. Most of the time the car would hit about 4800 and misfire and fall off. 2. We replaced plugs , gapped by Dom (tuner) to .030 - No Change- (I had put 300 miles on mine getting there w/out the correct tune so we thought 'maybe' that was the issue) 3. We disconnected the EGR vac lines - Dom thought there might be an issue - No Change 4. We changed my vac lines as the pressure sensor (the one that connects to the stock map sensor) was on the same vac line as the stock Fuel Press. Reg.. - No Change. 5. We gave up @ 5p.m. after starting @ 10:30a.m. :-(. (Dom had numerous other customers show up - busiest Saturday he's had - so we worked on it intermittently.) The car runs/idles better (not perfect), but whenever I get to about 4800 RPM, it starts to stumble and if I keep my foot in the thottle it throw the CEL for 'misfire' on all 4 cylinders....plus occasionally I get the P0420 Catalyst System Efficiency Below Threshold which is probably just a secondary code due to the Misfire. Since my car's ECU is old, Dom couldn't 'read it' real time to see exactly what, if anything, the ECU was doing to cause the misfire. His scan tool is only '99+. Dom says it's most likely electrical/electronic vs. mechanical. The AFR's were fine right up to the point of failure...it's like something in the ECU says "No More" and causes the misfire, but Dom really didn't know what to check. Thanks Todd

Correct - The brackets only hold the radiator in place. Time for a repair or replace. It might be worth it to rinse the area off, and making sure you're properly protected, see where it's leaking w/the car running. On the non-turbos the cooling system is pretty basic, so it shouldn't be too hard to find a leak. GL, TD