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Hmm...adding to hi-jack a good idea? Mid-1992 Legacy's got driver's-only airbags, as did the Impreza since its inception in '93. Both got Dual Air Bags in 1995. Source: Cars101.com

AT Trans fluid Capacity is 8.8 US Qts, per the FSM. Doesn't specify the TC capacity separately.

Just to clarify...the fluid shows on the dipstick, correct? It's a PITA to fill these 4EATs as the difference between Low and Full is about a pint, and fresh fluid can be hard to see on the 'stick...so it may still be low.

The EJ22 had the EGR valve on the Automatic, not the 5-speed, AND the dual-port exhaust heads in '95, which match your EJ25D exactly. The newer EJ22's work too, just make sure it has the EGR and their single-port exhaust header/Y-pipe. Other than minimal vac line rerouting, it's plug-n-play...the Forester's ECU will run it. Also, you checked your heat shields? They've been known to rattle....Just checking the simple stuff, too. GL, Td

Hi, Post your trans ID # so I/we can double-check trans vs. rear diff ratio, but if it drove fine AFTER the swap before acting up, that's not the issue. I briefly drove a car w/a 4.11 trans/3.90 rear dif and it wasn't as bad as you describe. On my own Legacy I had the delayed AWD engagement and fixed it by following the instructions on here to file down the grooves (POST) on the rear output shaft that hooks up to the tranfer clutches. But the fact that the FWD fuse does NOT help, means it's electrical or completely broken.....if the FWD fuse DID work, you'd get rid of the binding since the Duty C disconnects the rear drive....but the binding in a straight line has me puzzled..unless it completely destroyed the tranfer clutches???..... So.....if it's an electrical issue, look under there and see if you find something loose, etc. IIRC, the Duty C is enclosed in the rear housing (PIC), so unfortunately it has to come off to replace - you don't have to remove the trans to fix, but it's still a big job, IMHO. Also, you should be getting the 'Power light flashes' and can then check the codes. If you have a replacement rear housing, I recommend filing down the grooves b4 installing it...save some more grief later. GL TD

99.9% sure it's the roll-connector/ clockspring...same EXACT symptons on my '98 Forester - no Horn/Cruise/ABS light on. Replaced the CS and back in business. Pulling the steering wheel isn't that tough...getting the damn airbag connectors apart and fishing the harness wires out was a PITA though. You'll have no problem w/it. Couple of links for reference #1 and #2....may have to register (free) to see all the pics. GL, TD

Covered extensively on here.. Please SEARCH and come back w/questions. Td

According to this site - right here on the USMB - the phase 2 EJ25 BLOCK started in '99 for all Subarus. The Legacy line - OB/GT - retained the DOHC heads; the rest went SOHC. (No, I don't know why. ) Edit#1: Our friends on SubaruForester.org confirm this HERE. Edit#2: I believe the Phase 2 had the 8 bolts between trans/engine as well. So, that leads me to believe that the '99 DOHC heads should swap over to an original '99+ SOHC engine....and that of course means the engine harness - on the DOHC intake manifold- can be reused to ensure all the sensors and wiring stay the same, which I'm guessing is why you want to swap heads? Edit#3: And since I'm one of many that have done it, you can still swap in a '95 EJ22 (block and heads) from an AT into the '99 Legacy OB/GT and it'll run like stock (just slower). Td

^+1 Stock boost is <9psi. Using an MBC it can be upped to 13 before hitting factory fuel cut. There are 'fuel cut defenders' which can let you go higher. 19psi is the 2-Bar MAP sensor max. The stock VF11 turbo is probably maxed around 14 anyway. Popular upgrade is a WRX TD04 and '06+ IC - but requires custom install to re-route hoses and wiring. You'll want to consider fuel pump and injector upgrades over 14 psi, too. Stock turbo 4EAT is stronger than 5-speed, from what I've read...as stated, keep it cool! The WRX suspension bits should work..not my strong point...there is good info on Legacy Central. GL, Td

The oil line to the turbo or the return line (a rubber-type hose) to the head could possibly develop a leak but neither requires replacing the turbo. Much more likely it's just a cam seal or similar. Has the T-belt been done? If not, that's a good excuse to reseal the easy to-get-to stuff. Side-jack: Yes, turbo cars are higher maintence...but once you're boost addicted you don't much care. :-) (Not sure the Loyale or Jetta (turbo diesel?) are good examples of turbo's performance advantage - they're both kinda slow in NA form anyway.)

Hi, Check out this POST on Legacy Central about 1/2 way down where there are links to the FSM testing of the TPS. Gl, TD

I know just enough to be dangerous, and a detailed explanation makes it useful for the next person w/an issue. I'll update this quote when I replace the starter, which sounds like the route to take. Thanks to all for you input....

I was looking @ it and it doesn't look OEM...I'd have to pull it be sure. I noticed that the Forester and Impreza used the same manual/5-speed starter from 1993 -2002, but the Legacy uses a different part number over the same years. Doesn't make sense to me as all the engines/transmissions pretty much interchange...anyone know if the Legacy/Impreza/Forester starters will interchange? Thanks

^^^Awesome info...thanks for the detailed explanation. TD

So, if the solenoid is/going bad, would it crank slowly? Or are they 2 different parts of the starter? Thanks, td

How to pull codes on 4EAT (@ least 90-94): http://www.surrealmirage.com/subaru/trans.html Thanks to JC/Legacy777 for the info.

I'll double-check...I may have missed it. The batteries are rated the same @ 625/525cca, IIRC. Both are right @ 2 years old, but different brands. Thanks, Todd

-1998 Forester w/162K miles (only owned it for a 1.5K of those miles) so don't know much about its history of maintenance. -When 1st starting it cranks slowly and finally starts after 2-3 seconds. It's bit better when warm. With winter coming, I'm worried it won't start @ all below 30. -I've checked my battery connections and cables - Re-tightened the starter cables - Swapped the battery w/my '90 Legacy - no difference - Legacy spins right up and starts almost instantly. -Fresh plugs, good wires, tried a different coil pack. -When starting this morning the starter didn't 'catch'...but did on the 2nd try. I think it's the starter solenoid not engaging the flywheel? There's a whirring/spinning noise, but the engine doesn't turn over. This has happened maybe 3-4 times over the last 2-3 weeks. I'm suspecting the Starter - unknown condition/age, but wanted to hear what else to check. I've read you can replace the 'brushes/contacts' in the starter/solenoid? Thanks Td

Great pics and weather! I'm no 'wheeler, but have been out a few times w/friends in their jeeps. Always lots of fun. Maybe when I get tired of playing w/my Subies, I'll give it a try. There are a ton of places to go up here in N. Idaho. Thanks, TD P.s. your Sig 'links' are broken.

Awesome link - Thanks! Great info comparing NA vs. Turbo. _____________________________________________________________ I've had the Misfire on my '96 2.2 Legacy Brighton....Car is 'at college' so can't trouble-shoot, but whenever it's home for a visit it more often than not throws the Misfire on # 2 on the way. - 2.5's may require the NGK Platinums, but even those can run the NGK Copper like the 2.2's, per my Subie mechanic....just such a PITA to change most put in the Plats to extend the replacement interval. Based on the # of Threads on the USMB, Misfires are common on the EJ's, even w/ the OEM plugs and wires. Must be another cause???? Td

YOU ARE THE WINNER. I'm not clear on Why, since I can't log my MAF voltage, but I swapped in a WRX MAF, which can flow more air before maxing out, and the Misfire is gone! Thanks for your and everyone else's input. Todd

Dude...You just read my mind, I was looking @ the Equus Innova 3160 5 mins ago.....and didn't catch that piece about the ABS for Big3 only. I'm comparing the 3130 and 3140(OBD1, too) after reading your post. Thanks, Td

This was recommended by a couple of tuners and is close to the stock WRX gap. I believe the stock EJ22T is same as the NA @ .044, but w/the higher boost levels (~18 psi) I expect to achieve, I was told to narrow the gap. Currently running the BK6RE; Had the PFR6B (JDM EJ20) in before. Thanks

Yeah, I keep finding things that should work, w/out the cost of the SSM...even some scary cheap ones on ebait. Thanks for the replies.