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Re: Performance....if you're going to pull the engine, send the cams to Delta Camshafts in Tacoma, WA. They have a couple of different grinds they can do. It was about $100/cam last I checked. GL, TD

Check out some of the other Subaru sites about this issue, too..... legacygt.com comes to mind Do you know anyone w/WRX wheels/tires? Maybe swap for a day? I'm thinking tires, but an out of balance tire usually shows up @ 60mph-ish, in my experience. 67K isn't a lot, but as 2nd owner you don't know if the PO tweaked something. I'd take it to a couple of Subaru-specific shops for feedback on how things look underneath. RE: snow tires: The 225 width is too much for winter driving , IMHO. I'd consider a 205-series (if they make it). If you found a set of Forester's 215/60R-16 they might be a good compromise...if they fit over the calipers. Also an aggressive tread makes a difference in 'bite' vs. 'plow'. Good luck, TD

OK...I may take a 'hit' for this comment, but I thought the '95 Impreza was OBD1/OBDI and all the EJ25 were in OBD2/OBDII cars '96-'99. Wouldn't the intake/engine connectors be different? I know the '95 Legacy was OBD2 (although I've heard otherwise, but haven't seen one yet), but not the Impreza. If it has the OBD2 connector under a little plastic cover on the driver's side dash (@ least on Legacys), you're good to go. Just thought you should double-check.

I don't see it mentioned, so throwing it out there...Is the fluid fresh? I'd hope so on the rebuilt, but changing out the fluid has worked for some. Since you sound unsure of whether it was rebuilt, I'd also double-check the transmission ID on the bell-housing if there's a '2 ' after the 'Z' like this TZ102Z2ABA, it should be the correct one (thanks to johnceggleston). If it's a letter, it's got the wrong diff ratio....and someone swapped in a non-OB tranny. Td

If the car isn't .05 & .10 you to death...keep it. $900 sounds like a lot, but it's only a few car payments, rather than 3-4 years of payments for a new(er) car. I don't know the laws in NY, but can you order the cat online, and have a shop put it in? Or even go across statelines to find a shop? I had this done for about $150 - parts (ebay cat) and labor. Seal up the sunroof (and pull the fuse) as mentioned above. I used the black electrical tape, which worked well (but it was also 60+ degrees outside). This worked on an ol' '93 Legacy SS 'your results may vary'. Good luck, TD

The '94 Legacy is a 4.11 (non-turbo), and the chart shows 3.9, so I'd question its validity, too.'' Edit: I searched too and that chart shows up on a LOT of links. Here's a POST w/the same tranny and may (or not) help.

Yeah, I checked the rotor cover/shield, 1st, but thanks for the reminder.

1999 OB, Auto, 142K (just did a 2.2 swap). Symptons: rotational metallic noise when turning left or right regardless of whether brakes are applied or not from the front left/Driver's side @ city speeds. No noise straight ahead or above 40MPH. What I've done that didn't work, w/extra (good) parts I have: - put in another CV axle - replaced the caliper mounting plate as the bottom caliper bolt was rusted solid and didn't move in/out. - ensured the rotor cover/shield wasn't touching the rotor. What else should I check? If it is the bearing, should I just replace the hub? Also, is the upper strut bolt the only alignment-related thing to mark? Thanks, TD

Sir John, RE: the flex plate - I remembered to check before I installed it, as this wasn't my 1st engine swap - just my 1st 2.5>>2.2 swap. I learned this one the hard way on a previous swap...had the engine back in and ready to bolt up and WTH? The TC holes didn't line up - ARGH! The '93 turbo TC and flex plate were different than the NA's...live and learn. Thanks TD

You Nailed it! Just sitting and spinning. Replaced the axle and all is well! Thanks to All and Happy Holidays! TD Broken CV:

Yeah, Spaldings told me there were 3 different options for the '96 model year....they said I needed to match the code, but I doubt it. Thanks

Very good site dedicated to the '90-94 Legacy, including the turbo: http://bbs.legacycentral.org/index.php

Edit: 1996 Legacy Brighton 4EAT/EJ22, 180K: Initially thought the tranny was bad, but now...maybe a CV axle broke? Here's the step-son's description: If it is the tranny, per Johnceggleston, HERE, the '95-98 2.2 legacys all used the same tranny, but according to 'car-part.com' and my local wrecking yard I need to match the code. There were 3 Automatic choices that year: - TZ102ZAAAA - TZ102Z2ABA (this one is likely a 4.44 diff ratio and won't work) - TZ102ZABAA I know from the '90-94 years that any of 'em will work if I match it to the rear diff....including the turbos. The '95-98 4eat's behind the EJ22 should be 4.11; the EJ25 are 4.44. Should I also get the TCU for the year that matches the tranny, if different from my '96? Anybody have any feedback? I'm hauling the car home tomorrow and if I have time would like to get the replacement tomorrow, too, to work on over the holiday (yeah - lots o' fun!). Found a few low milers for ~$550. Thanks, TD

I swapped a '95 EJ22 w/EGR (170K) into a '99 OB (142K) that had a failed crank bearing (?) due to the PO forgetting to check the oil. More info HERE. Before I started the engine, I disconnected the coil plug to turn it over w/out actually firing, 2X....I've heard to do this to ensure the oil gets where it needs to be?? The EJ22 was from a wrecking yard and had been sitting for who knows how long in their warehouse. I drained about 2 quarts of oil out of it before refilling and putting on a new filter. After re-connecting the coil, it started right up (NO CEL!!) but had what I believe was Rod Knock (?) for about the 1st 10-15 seconds. Since it went away I let the engine run 'til warm - didn't touch the throttle. No other weird noises and I took the car for a short drive and all seemed well. So, the Question is: Did that 10-15 seconds of rod knock hurt anything? Thanks, TD

Thanks to this site and its awesome members I completed my 1st 2.5 >> 2.2 swap. I swapped a '95 EJ22 w/EGR (170K) into a '99 OB (142K) that had a failed crank bearing (?) due to the PO forgetting to check the oil. Started on 1st try and NO CELs! Here is some swap info I observed: - The '99 4EAT tranny has the 6 bolts, and what a PITA they are to get to on the Driver's side! I removed the driver's side CV axle to get @ 'em. - The EJ22 had the locator pins and so did the tranny - be smarter than me and remove them from one or the other B4 installing the engine. - The original '99 OB starter worked perfect - both upper and lower mounting bolts were still in place. I was unclear on this but since I didn't swap trannys it was a non-issue. - The flex plate from '95 won't work - too small @ least on the '99 w/the newer 4EAT. Rule of thumb seems to be to always match the flexplate w/the tranny - not the engine. - The vac hoses are different as mentioned in previous posts: --On the EJ22 there are 2 that go to the charcol canister. I looped them back into each other. --There were also 2 on the passenger side of the intake manifold on the EJ22. There was one hose w/a T-connector that I found on the EJ25. I took the T-connector from EJ25 and used it to connect the longer hose to the sensor on the passenger strut tower, and put the extra EJ22 hose on the T. - I swapped the AC/Alt bracket from the EJ25 to the EJ22...it may not be necessary but couldn't get that small bracket piece under the AC to work (maybe I just needed a break!). Otherwise, the AC/ALT/PS all connected right up. The PS lines do stick out and won't connect to the EJ22. I removed the brackets from the lines, since they weren't being used. - Note that neither the AC compressor nor the PS pump need to be disconnected from their hoses - just swing them up and out of the way. When removing/installing the engine just go slow and move the AC hoses out of the way as needed. Thanks Again to ALL those providing the info to do this!

I got about 6 months out of an Autozone CV axle (don't recall the brand), which I also bought since I needed it 'yesterday'. If you have a Junk/Wrecking yard handy I would put in a used one before another Autozone one. You could also call a local Subie mechanic and see where they get theirs...they surely don't want to do the job again in 6 months. Good luck, TD

Check out http://bbs.legacycentral.org/. There is a ton of info specific to the '90-94 Legacy-NA and Turbo. I have the AT in my EJ22T (swapped into a '90), and 'might' get 24 MPG highway, but since I'm a boost addict, I'm usually around 20. This is w/double the stock boost (17psi), w/some other upgrades, including the Revtronix chip, which helps w/tuning. The AT is a strong tranny, if fluid is maintained and kept cool (put a tranny cooler on it to help make it last). The upside to the higher maintenance requirements of the EJ22T is that the block is arguably the strongest Subaru ever made. I'd look @ which one has the best maintenance history, so you know what you're getting into. Have fun, TD

I don't see an EGR on that JDM either, if yours has one. I'd also be wary of future parts replacement on that JDM intake manifold...if you have to replace the IAC, TB, etc, and they're different, getting parts and trouble-shooting will be harder, IMHO. FWIW, I've had/bought 3 EJ25D w/bad HG: 62K, 125K, and 135K. Td

That looks just like the WRX 6-disc player I installed in my '97 OB. Direct fit, but lost the compartment below AND the clock, if it matters to you. GL, TD

The stall test 'normal' values for the Phase 1 4EAT are: Non-turbo: 2550-2950 RPM Turbo: 2850-3250 RPM (Thanks to Legacy777 for this INFO - open this FILE: 4EAT_performance_test.zip.) For reference I found the WRX 4eat Phase II is 3200 RPM Stall Test Results Higher than normal RPM indicates one or more of the following: • Slippage of the forward clutch • O.W.C. not holding • Low/Reverse brake slipping • Overall low line pressure Lower than normal RPM indicates one or more of the following: • Incorrect throttle adjustment • Poor engine operation • Torque converter stator slippage FIXED w/a '92 Turbo 4eat transmission. I used the NA Torque Converter so I didn't have to swap the flex plate. I also used the NA TCU, which was working fine, according the guy I sold the car to. :-)

Smells very burnt.

My replacement transmission is from a '92 Turbo 4EAT. I know they're both 3.90 diff ratio, but the flex plate/torque converters are different. Anyone know if I can use the TC from the bad NA tranny and put it in the turbo tranny? Removing the flex plate is a PITA. Thanks for the help!

1. Checked the plugs and they were tight. Everything around the top of the tranny look untouched/original. I decided not to disconnect and drive it based on others' comments. 2. For the TC Stall test, I floored it w/the brakes on, and it wouldn't go higher than 2500 RPM in D. 3. Please take a look below - very dark, but didn't really see metal in the fluid:

I do NOT have Torque Bind...so doesn't sound electrical....which would be the easy(er) fix. Missed that the 1st time...tranny swapping time. Thanks

Thanks Gary....I'll check the fluid and connectors @ the tranny and under the dash, too. TD