wtdash

You said you were a 'rookie', so no offense if this is obvious! Raise the rear wheels off the ground, grab the top of the tire and see if there's any play in/out. That should tell you if it's the bearings...I've heard Foresters have 'bearing issues'; not sure about the OB. Also, fill the Rear diff (if you can get that darn top plug out!). Good luck, TD

Get another estimate...ANY Mechanic can do struts. There is something to be said for getting the parts and labor done @ the same place for future warranty/repair issues - no finger-pointing - but it shouldn't cost that much. good luck, TD

Moves/rolls, as if in Neutral, or just a few inches and stops? Make sure they look @ this during the inspection, too! Good luck, TD

Welcome to the board! Searching on here for 'swap' and 'conversion' will likely find you a lot of info. I also know there are dedicated sites for VWs that have swapped in Subaru engines. Personally, unless you're very familiar w/turbos/wiring/engine management/etc, I'd leave your '96 EJ22E AS IS - don't turbo it. Unless you run <5psi boost, install turbo-quality pistons, and other mods, you'll be looking for a new/replacement engine b4 too long. Otherwise, find an EJ22T from a '91-94 Legacy or a WRX EJ20 w/all the related bits to go turbo the safe way. Have fun! Td

'89-91 = Same (aka pre-facelift) '92-94 = Same (mostly - the GT had a raised roof in '94) (aka post-facelift) Yes, the shortblock is great...rumor it can handle 300+HP 'as is' w/supporting mods to fuel/ECU/etc. '92 Turbo TCU in a '94 NA? It'll work, but you may get some weird shifts on occasion...@ least I did. I'd match the transmission (turbo vs. NA) w/the same TCU; I think the year matters less. BTW, if the '91 Turbo is an Automatic it also has the same diff ratio as your '94 - 3.90 - and it should have a VLSD...buy that for sure!

Also, I just noticed the 'City Driving'.... ....That may be more like 100K+ miles for an average city/highway car. So, I wouldn't be too surprised they are getting soft. Td

No offense, but from reading/experience, the '98-'08 will all work. I bought a set from an '08 w/18K. Thanks, Td

Pay this site a visit: http://www.subaruforester.org/

Maybe I missed it, but buying Used can save a ton, and if you can replace them yourself, save even more. Buy the whole assembly and it's a pretty easy swap (remember to mark the top strut bolt). Over on SubaruForester.org they frequently have them for sale. Just get 'em w/lower miles <30K?? Good luck, Td

Welcome to USMB. And don't buy a '95 EJ22 from a 5-speed (doesn't have the EGR). Been there, done that! Td

Yes, the 'slots' on the drum can cause an AWD engagement delay. Mine took a second or so to engage. I removed the rear tranny housing (did NOT have to remove tranny), filed down the grooves, replaced the Duty C, and the delay was gone. I STILL get torque bind on occasion, as the plates (?) need replaced, but it's 90% better overall, so I'm just living w/it. Also, might test w/the FWD fuse in. If the fuse eliminates the torque bind then you know the Duty C is OK (although I'd still change it if you fix the slots.) Here's MY THREAD on this. Good luck, TD

Thanks for this info- very good point! ...It's the AT w/the 2.5 so it's a 4.44, I believe.

Sounds similar to my kid's car - '96 Legacy Brighton - electronic speedo. - Speedo would intermittently bounce/not work under 30mph, but OK above that.....NO idle/drivability issues. - VSS error code (can't recall # of code but was the front one) - Replaced w/USED VSS and cleared codes, but still had speedo issue (but no code). - Replaced gauge cluster* last nite - we'll have to wait and see. * cluster is out of a '96 Outback - exact replacement and gained the Tachometer..just hope it fixes the issue.

The Legacy GT Turbo also has a different exhaust flange...so the TD04 probably won't bolt up correctly either.

For comparison, they're almost equal @ around 110HP for the Impreza and 115HP for the GL Turbo, I believe. I was always wondering why the GL wagon's turbo only added about 25HP.....and the Legacy 2.2 vs. 2.2 Turbo is only 30HP more. Sorry, tangent.. Enjoy the Impreza!

Also, don't expect much 'git up and go'. The EJ18 w/the 4EAT isn't known for its performance....If you drive a lot of hills, may be a concern. Otherwise, that's a good deal IMHO.

Usually it's around 110-150 lbs./50-70Kg for the OEM racks. Did you check the Owner's Manual? There should/could be a sticker on the stock rails, too.

1997

Search on Legacy ej22 or 2.2 and you'll get lots of hits. A kit I recently bought inluded the belt, pulleys, cam seals, and water pump. But the tensioner (not the pulley tensioner) is separate and usually $$...not sure what the opinion is about how often to replace it. On my kit, the pulleys were different from OEM and the stock bolts didn't fit....too long. Search on here...my diagnostic skills are poor, but others have surely covered it.

+2 Buy the car. Unless you know the history, do the timing belt (yes, it's non-interference), which doesn't require pulling the engine, as stated by OLNICK...and when you're in there you'll likely find your oil leak...cam/crank seals. Do the waterpump too. The ebay kits for about $100 include most/all you'll need. Also, I've had 2 legacys w/leaking PS pumps that leaked down the front - SOA sells a rebuild kit pretty cheap, or so I've read - so check it out too. If you DO pull the engine, check the rear main..only touch it if it's leaking, otherwise leave it be. Replace the rear oil separator plate w/the updated metal one. If the MAF is bad, most all '90-98? Subies used the same one - the JECS/AUTOECS MAF....I've pulled half-dozen from a JY and they all worked fine, so don't buy a new one. p.s. Along w/oil leaks, the exhaust heat shields have a 'reputation' too.

Yes. What codes are you getting? td

Replaced the front VSS (#2) and speedo is still inconsistent. Sounds like I need a speedo head? Does it require a new speedo or is it a separate part? Reset the ECU by removing the Neg battery cable, to get rid of the CEL, but it'll be back. I also found the Green connectors under the driver's side dash, but no Black connectors (I do have 'me on my '90 legacy) per this LINK, which could be used to clear the codes. Thanks, Td

1996 Legacy Brighton Automatic, 180K. - Erratic Speedometer under 30mph. Usually works fine above - CEL - pulled codes @ Autozone = Vehicle Sensor A, Code P0500 - Electric VSS on the front of the tranny, near the diff dipstick. Code P0500 doesn't specifiy which VSS and all references I've seen state VSS 1 or VSS 2. Does VSS A = VSS1? From what I've read on here VSS1 is on the back of the tranny and VSS2 is on the front. This LINK also shows the VSS1 is on the back; VSS 2 on back. This POST , w/the exact same CEL info states it's 'on the tranny', but since theirs is a manual, I don't know which one? Since the speedo is affected, my guess it's the front one, but since that part (85082AC012) is $100, I'd rather not make a mistake. Thanks for any clarification!

If this is a hijack let me know, but hopefully it's just adding info... Is it just the bushing that needs replaced or is there something in/on the control arm, too? The bushing is about $60 online...should I just buy a new one or 'pull-n-save' it, if they rarely die? Thanks.

Can you try it w/OUT the driveshaft? Since the FWD fuse should do the same, it probably won't help, but may isolate the issue even more? good luck