wtdash

$1250 for a '96 Legacy Brighton, 180K. Clean and runs well.

Google found THIS, which says 4.11, but no specific model listed. Also, search on car-part.com as they will show part numbers occasionally. Good luck.

Auto? In P or D make any difference?

Same question popped up about a week back....HERE. Should help, too. P.s. Check the rear wheel bearings, too. Good luck, Td

Is there a key code on the valet key or in the Owner's manual? A locksmith should be able to make one from that info, too. Good luck.

If the timing belt covers are melted, that is also a sign of a badly overheated engine - per a Subaru mechanic (not me) who has done 'hundreds' of HG repairs. good luck p.s. Have your friend spend some time on this forum reading about the 2.5 and the 2.2 swap....he might change his mind....esp. after seeing the cost of a replacement 2.5 vs. a 2.2.

Search on here to confirm, but the Forester/Impreza got the SOHC 2.5 in '99, too. (Legacy/Outback in 2000.) Per cars101.com: 1999 Forester Engine - new Phase II 2.5 liter 4 cylinder, 16 valve SOHC (single overhead cam) Boxer engine as opposed to Phase I DOHC (double overhead cam) 1999 Impreza:Full time All-Wheel-Drive New for 1999: new Phase II 2.2 and 2.5L engines,.....

Here's some updated info: All AWD; '90-91 Non-turbo 4EAT = 4.11 '91-94 Turbo 4EAT = 3.90 '92-94 Non-turbo 4EAT = 3.90 '95-? - EJ22 + 4EAT = 4.11 Here's one REFERENCE. FWD 4EAT are 3.70 - for the 1990 @ least - HERE.

Learn something new every day. I replaced the wipers last nite and they were 2" shorter than OEM, which now makes sense as they were likely 'shortened' to not hit on the Edgeguard??? Althought they still hit/rest on the bottom Edgeguard when turned off. Thanks for what I believe to be the 'final answer'.

For a windshield replacement? Well, I know the PO was computer geek and the guy b4 him a professor @ local college.....enough said? Or maybe a bit too much. Thanks for the info!

We just got a '96 Legacy Brighton and it has a strange plastic trim around the outside of the windshield. It's about 4" wide on the bottom and top and 2" on the sides, thicker than any tint film I've seen, and is stuck under the windshield's original moulding. It's falling off now and I intend to remove the rest of it.....just curious as to its purpose??? The PO didn't know either. The original top-edge tint is visible in this pic, and it's barely any wider??

Car doesn't pull when brakes are applied - either when they work well or badly. I've not checked the line w/a vac gauge....don't have one...yet. I'm thinking it's the brake booster, since it's doing it in cold or warm weather. And since there's a different part number for the Turbo vs. NA, my original '90 NA booster may be wrong for the '93 Turbo. I read on LCBBS that a '97 Impreza 'single diaphragm' (my '90 is dual) might be a good replacement/upgrade. And mine is a NON-ABS and has 4 brake line connections...looks like the ABS only have 2? Anyone know what other Subarus will fit? Thanks

Search on here and I bet you'll find the missing EGR will throw a code...that's why the '95 Automatic w/EGR is used (learned this one the hard way). Since your sis is maintenance-challenged, you'll likely ensure whichever engine you swap in is 'good to go' for another 60- 100k anyway, so the interference issue should be moot. Make sure you get the Y-pipe for whichever you use - dual vs. single port. Good luck.

- Tried the WD40 trick on the vac hose - no luck. - Installed another hose from my '93 SS donor and still not fixed. (I don't know the condition of this hose - never drove the car.) But this a.m. it was about 25 degrees F when I started the car and headed out -city driving. I hit the brakes 2x and they seemed OK. I accelerated up to about 35, just got into boost (EJ22T swap), and then hit brakes to slow down and there was almost no stopping power! I pushed harder and still not better. I released the brakes and pumped them a couple times and they felt 'dead' - like they do when pushed w/the engine off. So, I'm thinking there's more to this than just a hose. Also, I forgot to add in the OP, that I also installed SS brake lines on the front. Brake booster? Master cylinder? Calipers? As stated in the OP, I swapped in Forester calipers/rotors of unknown mileage - How would I know if they need a rebuild? Thanks for any more feedback.

Hmm, that could be the issue as I recently installed a hood scoop for my turbo swap, which lets in air right where the vac line is. I'll give the WD40 trick a try until I can replace the hose/check valve. Thank- you

Temps have been right around freezing.

Rear discs (drum parking brake).

'90 Legacy 160K - AT/AWD/NO ABS. When braking, sometimes I can push the pedal as hard as I can, and the car will slowly come to a stop; Other times, I can lock up the tires (non-abs). I can pump the brakes and it seems to help bring back full stopping power. Also, I swapped in '99 Forester front brakes - calipers and rotors- no difference, although the car seems to stop better when the brakes are working properly. Pads and rotors both good. I've bled the brakes twice in the last 3 months w/this procedure: - Remove most of the brake fluid from MC; fill w/new fluid. - Connect the 'one-man bleeder' kit's hose to the bleed valve w/collection bottle above bleed valve. - Open bleed valve. - Slowly push brake pedal to floor and release. - Check hose for bubbles. - Repeat until no bubbles. - On last brake pedal push, keep pedal depressed, and tighten bleed valve. In this order: right front>>left rear>>left front>>right rear . Also, I tested the MC by pushing the brake w/key off, and holding while starting the engine. The pedal moves very little (maybe a 1/8"-barely noticeable) after engine is running. What's it sound like? Thanks

I would add to the above: - Rear wheel bearings seem to be a frequent maintenance item, but you're still on the low side for miles @ 90k - TSB HERE - There may be a TSB for the HG leak - more info HERE If your car is local, check the Subaru dealer to see if the car has been in for the above or other issues. - I've heard a few people complain about a lack of room in the back seats, so if you haul adults it may be an issue; probably not w/the kidlets. Note: You may need to create an account on 'scooobymods' to view the links.

Check out Ebait Motors (ebay)...I use it for just this kind of stuff, and cars101.com may have pics specific to your car.

Hello, '97 OB? You'll likely need an OBDII scanner (or is Canada different?). I'd do just a REPLACEMENT of the AT fluid - not a FLUSH. Flushing can bring out other issues....in my case I lost reverse. If it is the clutches or the Duty C this can be fixed w/the tranny in the car for <$1000 (US). There's a detailed write-up on here that I used successfully, if you're mechanically inclined/brave. Good luck.

Some of the previous models of Geo's didn't get great reviews - the A/T-S may be better. Here are the top 4 from a 'leading consumer mag': Goodyear Assurance TripleTred Michelin X Radial (Club Tire) Hankook Mileage Plus II H725 Yokohama Avid TRZ Don't know pricing, but Michelin's aren't cheap!

I did a quick check online (autozone - do not buy from them!) and the part numbers are the same for both of your years/models of Legacy - the only diff (pun intended) is Left and Right...on the rear CV axles only. However, when I looked on 1st Subaru Parts website, there is a listing for '95-97 and '98-2000 for the Legacy.... I don't know what, if any, difference there is. I also thought they were all the same, so I had to look for my own info. Also, since there is no distinction for '96-97 axles between Outback and L models online, the rear diff ratio shouldn't matter. Since you have the '98 axles, too, I guess you're good to go...however, swapping a rear diff is a PITA....esp. twice.

Seats look good and appear to have the same adjustments...put some sheepskins on them, if it's a looks thing. Have fun.

Yes, but it's not fun. I'd Search on here about tricks on changing plugs - could save a lot of time....the 2.5 is even tougher to change. Get the codes. Good luck.