wtdash

I had a similar issue on a '00 Forester. IIRC I found this on the Web a few years back: I used warm water that I lightly sprayed in w/a misting bottle (not a direct shot/stream of water), wiped it clean and then I used a vaccum w/the crevice attachment to suck out any water. Worked well. I would ensure that all power is off, and time it so the car can sit for a few hours/overnight to dry out completely....maybe even point a fan @ the controls to help it dry off. Good luck.

Probably telling you what you know....but the '96 w/the Automatic has 155HP vs. the 165HP of the '97+ EJ25s, and the 2.5 required Premium. Also, if it is an auto that's a lot of miles on the original 4EAT..I'd plan on a replacement/rebuild b4 too long. Good luck.

2.2 has less HP/Torque, even on the newer Phase II. From cars101.com: 1998 GT:Engine: 2.5 liter DOHC fuel injected 4 cylinder 16 Valve boxer engine, 165 horsepower, 162 Ft lbs torque @4000rpm 1998 Legacy: Engine: 2.2-L, 135 horsepower, 4 cylinder boxer engine, 16 valve single overhead cam, multiport fuel injected (140 ft lbs torque), electronic distributorless ignition 1999 Legacy: Engine: Phase II 2.2L 4 cylinder boxer engine Horsepower: 142 hp at 5600 rpm, 149 ft. lbs torque at 3600 rpm _____________________________________________________________ I would also 'burp' the cooling system as previously mentioned...but the 'floaters' in the overflow are a bad sign. If it is the HG and as you only have 102K miles on your 2.5....I'd fix it as the 2.5 'should' be good for another 100K+...should be around $1500 for the repair-more @ a dealer. But the CCR engine DOES come w/a warranty. Good luck.

Does your LL Bean have VDC? if not then maybe it's a Subaru handling trait. From this month's issue of a 'leading consumer mag' on their road test of the new Legacy 2.5i: "If a driver enters a corner too quickly and lifts off the throttle, the Legacy's tail can slide out and could cause the car to spin. Stability control should correct this problem, but it is not available on the trim level of our base 2.5i. ........It loses major points for handling that gets tricky in emergency maneuvers. " It's a newer gen then yours, so I don't claim to know if the suspensions are the same. And this is a pet peeve of mine w/Subaru...as not everyone is a skilled driver: "Electronic stability control helps, but is only an option on higher-end versions and is not available on our base test car. " Td

The $600 difference is worth it for the warranty alone, IMHO. I've read on here and elsewhere that the 2.5 may have other issues once the miles add up...ask Mr. Nipper. I agree that the extra HP of the 2.5 is required @ 8,000 feet. I've read that the main complaint of Subie owners in the Rocky Mtn states was about a lack of power due to the altitude. And since yours is a 5-speed, you don't have to worry about the extra cost of fixing the 4EAT.

I don't read 'palms' or have a 'crystal ball', but I also see you having another Subie in the family when you get to Maine. And yes, by all means, drive it more!

Two great cars...So a bit of 'buyer's remorse' maybe? Are you making payments on the XT (which I'd love to have BTW - the car; not the payments!)? Is it your wallet feeling the pain? I felt a similar 'pang' when I had to sell my 97 OB and the wife and I bought a new SUV....which she mostly drives (long story). Of course I had to get another Subie, hence the '90 Leg I have now. Enjoy the XT and 'this too shall pass'....you deserve it! P.S. see above...hopefully you DID miss out on the '98 headgasket replacement - I did not!

I'd be interested in hearing more on the swap...(althought the EJ25 gets a bad rap (usually deserved) on USMB)....if you get bored and have time to do a write-up. Thanks, Td

Is this a Subie dealer? They would/should know about the different tires/AWD issue. It sounds like the PO wore out only 2 tires?? Which means they never rotated 'em....what else didn't they do? Did you negotiate a price well below their asking price? Otherwise, I doubt they're only making $300...that might be $300 LESS than their normal profit . $1280 for the extended warranty sounds steep...is that for an ADDITIONAL 5 yrs/75K? Or total? If it's total, invest that money for now and pull IF you need it. We were offered a 7yr/100k warranty for $1200ish on our Toyota....which we tried to negotiate on and they wouldn't budge....so we said "no". If you plan on driving this car 'til the warranty expires (and beyond) and peace of mind is important, then get it anyway. And ensure anything they promise is on the Invoice/Bill of Sale....nothing verbal. Good luck and enjoy! I like the new 06+ Subies more each time I see 'em.

I wanted to add that Subies are well-balanced for their weight vs. many of the larger SUVs and trucks. I had an AWD truck that due to its extra heft was fine going straight, but turning was another matter....including stopping.

Your EXISTING tires are 2 months old, All Seasons and siped? GO!! I wouldn't buy new snow tires (studless or studded) unless you move to where the snow is on the roads in town all winter...last time I checked Bellingham snow doesn't stick around for long. 75-90% of the trip is on bare and/or wet roads to the mtns in your area-not the compact snow and ice we enjoy over here in the Spokane-N. Idaho area. The only exceptions are if the tires are not stock sizing and your experience. If your tires are wider than stock, the extra surface area is actually worse on snow-covered/slick roads....from what I've read/heard. AND, If you've NEVER driven in the snow, I'd reconsider making your 1st trip one into the mtns...try some flatland snow driving to get familiar w/it as Mr. GrossGary recommends. I may be in the minority opinion here, but AWD w/All Seasons will get you to any resort in your area (unless you're beating the plows up and it's too deep!)....the only one I can't say for sure is Mt. Baker, as I didn't make it up there when I lived in Seattle....but remember the roads are usually plowed/sanded so the vast majority of skiers/boarders can get to the slopes. AWD w/All Season tires doesn't require chains, even when posted, per WA. DOT requirements as All Seasons are considered 'snow tires' as previously stated. And if you do chain up (for peace of mind), you'll only need 'em on the front....as per your Owner's Manual. Remember, AWD doesn't stop you any better! And (this may start a whole new discussion!) don't ride the brakes coming down the steep mtn roads...shift into 2nd or 3rd....but don't over-rev the engine. Yes, brake pads are cheaper than a tranny, but faded/over-heated brakes don't do much good either. Lastly (about time!) if your OB has an LSD on the rear axle watch it when accelerating.....My VLSD kicks out a bit if I punch it...I think it's fun...my passengers not so much!

Pm'd Thanks:)

1997 OBW Auto Replaced HG @ 130K 1990 Legacy Auto 145K - Original HG

RE: replacement: On my '97 there was a Subaru spark plug tool (in the rear w/the tire stuff). I wasn't smart enough to remember it when I did mine, so can't tell you how well it would work. Also, people suggest using a piece of hose/tubing over the end of the plug to help fish 'em out/in. Good luck

4.11 rear diff for '90 & '91 vs. 3.90 for '91 turbo and '92-'94 Automatics.

Interested to know if you've put on the Michelins or got new treads and the result? I've got a similar issue that occurs w/both my all-seasons and studded snows. I thought it may be due to the struts needing replaced....but the CV axles are both from the local Autozone (I know! I know!), so maybe they're the culprit.

I can recommend Louie's Transmission. They repaired (not rebuilt) my '95 Legacy AT transmission (lost reverse/torque bind) and did some other related work to a Dakota I had....but double-check w/the Better Business Bureau as it's been a few years ago. Louies Automotive & Transmission Service 1323 N Monroe St Spokane, WA 99201 Map (509) 483-2354 If you do need to replace it, I would also suggest saving the $$ and finding a used one....unless you're going to keep this car for a long time....it's unlikely you'd get your $$ back out of it if you decide to sell it soon.

Local Subie parts department says fogs listed as "No longer available"...

My '90 has plastic pieces in the exact same place, which look very similar to the pics....but mine may be 'covers' - so maybe those ARE the fogs....although I don't see how you'd every get in there to change 'em out.........I wonder if SoA would still sell the lights...I may call just for s.

RE: the codes: "Blinking once every 1/4sec is normal"...meaning no issues. Sounds fixed? Good luck.

There's a super clean '91 on Ebait (Item number: 110185606101) w/a fog light switch..or is it (below the defroster and cruise buttons)? Here's the front of the car: Where are the lights???

The interlock release lever switch by the panel allows the shifter to move w/out the key inserted. There is no overdrive override switch...shifter must be moved to 3rd. If the 'power' light comes on, their may be a code stored. Check this: http://www.surrealmirage.com/subaru/trans.html

Gary, Do you recommend just the Ebait pulleys or the timing belt, too? I've heard to stick w/the OEM belt? Thanks

http://www.geocities.com/kuleshoff/IAC.htm

He had "spiked ice tyres" (thanks for the link)...those probably helped - a little . I thought rally races were mainly flat?? I probably need to get out more! Unfortunately I've not had that opportunity to see much rally driving on snow...But w/35 years of skiing experience, and the steepness of the approach to those jumps, I'm still surprised it can climb that well - heck, who needs a snowmobile!