wtdash

Old post, but wanted to update since it's fixed (can't edit the original post). Swapped in a used IAC and my high idle when cold is gone, and seems to have fixed a surging idle once warm it also had . For the record, the wiring harness was from a '91 turbo - my engine and IAC were from a '93 turbo. The replacement IAC was from a '91...shouldn't matter, though. I'll have to wait 'til next winter to see if fixed the <0 degrees F issue, too.

I'd take this up on a Porsche site. They may be significantly different than a Subaru, even if they're both flat 4's. On a Subaru the a leaking oil separator plate allows oil to drip on the exhaust, etc. Please start a new thread. Don't 'hijack' an existing one. Good luck, Td

I have a hard 1>>2 shift, also ('96 Legacy Brighton). This [/url] LINK and this LINK describe and show the 4EAT 'dropping resistor' as well as discusses the Duty Solenoids. Looks like a Duty A or B could also cause the issue as they control shifting? Td

I bought the short block w/a bunch of other turbo parts, incl. heads and intake, from a guy locally....and they were all used when he got them, too. So hard to say. But I (am) was too much of a noob to check for these issues when I bought it.

Looking for confirmation on what I'm afraid is bad news: When I was putting in the rear main seal on my EJ22T project, the crank would move in/out-forward/aft a good 1/8". Rumor is this means the bearings/rings need replaced, which of course requires splitting the engine open...... Not currently in my bag of mechanical skills. The engine has roughly 160K on it, so maybe it's due anyway. I was told the engine may run this way for awhile (or Not), but could cause further damage to the block rendering it junk. Comments welcomed before I put anymore time into this. Thanks Td

Here's an option. Found it HERE: I imported my Legacy last summer it is a 2 litre twin turbo (GTB) has been modified to run the turbo's in parallel plus quite a bit more With this set up the VOD (valley of death,the lag between the first turbo and the larger second one kicking in) is no more and pulls very hard from around 3000 rpm to the redline

It was a used one I got from a local Subie shop. It lasted 1.5 years longer than the new one from autozone:rolleyes:. Thanks

Weird issue this weekend when I swapped in my 'new-to-me' Forest FXT stuts (Pics and post to follow soon). When I removed the driver's side front strut, the whole hub just flopped outwards, and when I tried to push it back upright it wouldn't go initially. After a few more tries I finally got it to go back in so I could install the new strut. Both inner/outer boots looked good - not tears/rips/leaking grease. After getting everything put back together I now have the click of a a bad CVJ/DOJ - when accelerating/turning/etc. So, my guess it was on its way out anyway? Thanks

Well done! Look forward to hearing how it runs/drives. And as usual, the install looks great. Do you have your engine mod list posted - turbo/injectors/etc?

Seats and struts should swap. Check out rs25.com for turbo'ing the DOHC. Check out http://www.subaruforester.org/ for related info, too. Have fun.

Welcome to the board. This issue is in the Top 5 on here. Please SEARCH for more info.. Here's MINE to get you started. Good luck. P.s. Better to start your own Post than 'hi-jack' another's.

Drain and replace 2x more and see....cheaper than fixing it. Be careful refilling as it's easy to overfill...I've read on here that the difference between Low and Full is about a pint - not much!

Pic of IAC (thanks Legacy777): And a cleaning method from HERE: Dirty IAC valve. The procedure has been posted a couple times on other sites, but in short you have carbon dust build up that is making the idle controller stick. Easiest way to clean: Remove pcv valve Remove top (electronic portion) of IAC Remove hose for the IAC at the intake side Fill hose with plenty of carb cleaner, while turning the valve Fill the tube again and this time blow while turning, air and cleaner will escape through the PCV valve hole Repeat as needed. You should feel ZERO drag when turning the valve. Reassemble and try it.

$1250 for a '96 Legacy Brighton, 180K. Clean and runs well.

Google found THIS, which says 4.11, but no specific model listed. Also, search on car-part.com as they will show part numbers occasionally. Good luck.

Auto? In P or D make any difference?

Same question popped up about a week back....HERE. Should help, too. P.s. Check the rear wheel bearings, too. Good luck, Td

Is there a key code on the valet key or in the Owner's manual? A locksmith should be able to make one from that info, too. Good luck.

If the timing belt covers are melted, that is also a sign of a badly overheated engine - per a Subaru mechanic (not me) who has done 'hundreds' of HG repairs. good luck p.s. Have your friend spend some time on this forum reading about the 2.5 and the 2.2 swap....he might change his mind....esp. after seeing the cost of a replacement 2.5 vs. a 2.2.

Search on here to confirm, but the Forester/Impreza got the SOHC 2.5 in '99, too. (Legacy/Outback in 2000.) Per cars101.com: 1999 Forester Engine - new Phase II 2.5 liter 4 cylinder, 16 valve SOHC (single overhead cam) Boxer engine as opposed to Phase I DOHC (double overhead cam) 1999 Impreza:Full time All-Wheel-Drive New for 1999: new Phase II 2.2 and 2.5L engines,.....

Here's some updated info: All AWD; '90-91 Non-turbo 4EAT = 4.11 '91-94 Turbo 4EAT = 3.90 '92-94 Non-turbo 4EAT = 3.90 '95-? - EJ22 + 4EAT = 4.11 Here's one REFERENCE. FWD 4EAT are 3.70 - for the 1990 @ least - HERE.

Learn something new every day. I replaced the wipers last nite and they were 2" shorter than OEM, which now makes sense as they were likely 'shortened' to not hit on the Edgeguard??? Althought they still hit/rest on the bottom Edgeguard when turned off. Thanks for what I believe to be the 'final answer'.

For a windshield replacement? Well, I know the PO was computer geek and the guy b4 him a professor @ local college.....enough said? Or maybe a bit too much. Thanks for the info!

We just got a '96 Legacy Brighton and it has a strange plastic trim around the outside of the windshield. It's about 4" wide on the bottom and top and 2" on the sides, thicker than any tint film I've seen, and is stuck under the windshield's original moulding. It's falling off now and I intend to remove the rest of it.....just curious as to its purpose??? The PO didn't know either. The original top-edge tint is visible in this pic, and it's barely any wider??

Car doesn't pull when brakes are applied - either when they work well or badly. I've not checked the line w/a vac gauge....don't have one...yet. I'm thinking it's the brake booster, since it's doing it in cold or warm weather. And since there's a different part number for the Turbo vs. NA, my original '90 NA booster may be wrong for the '93 Turbo. I read on LCBBS that a '97 Impreza 'single diaphragm' (my '90 is dual) might be a good replacement/upgrade. And mine is a NON-ABS and has 4 brake line connections...looks like the ABS only have 2? Anyone know what other Subarus will fit? Thanks