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I pulled all the belts and the noise is still there, so still unknown. I did try to remove the heat shield under the front cat (as suggested by Subie shop), but the bolts are rusted/heat welded? so that won't be done anytime soon..no rattles coming from it regardless. I did put 800+ miles on the car over the weekend, w/out incident. Car ran perfect, shifted great going up/down 2 passes and got 28+ MPG @ 70 mph (OR) - 75 mph (WA). I'll drive it as is and keep an eye out for another tranny. Thanks all for the feedback.

I'm 90% sure it's gear oil, just because of the smell and color. Thanks for the info.

1990 Legacy Auto AWD. There are 2 hoses coming off the top of the front differential - near the differential dipstick. One is leaking/draining on the starter, which then runs down and ends up on the exhaust. I had all the diff fluids changed about 1 month ago and the dipstick shows overly full....just drain some out and it'll be good? Thanks

Update: Taken to 2 shops. First one, a dedicated tranny and muffler shop, said it would be $150+ to fix the check valve, and they couldn't find the noise, but it's not in the exhaust. They suggested i go to the shop below. 2nd one was a Subaru-only shop (they service and sell used Subes and have a super-nice '97 OB for sale ). They said not to bother fixing the check valve (I left it overnight for them to test cold) and the noise was "rocks stuck in the heat shield" (if so why didn't they remove the shields to verify???) or noise in transmission ("Thanks for sharing" :-\ ).They suggested I'll need a new/rebuilt tranny....I'm waiting for them to call back w/a quote. It's the 2nd time I've been there and neither time have I been too impressed w/their diagnosis. So, for now I'll keep looking for a used one and drive it 'til it starts to die.

I looked last night for the filter, as SVXpert has 'em for sale, but there's not one on my car. I did call another local shop specializing in Subes and they had heard of the issue (#1) and it'd cost about $150 to fix - labor and parts.

I can't pinpoint the sound as it only does it while driving (I can't get either step-son to ride under the hood:)) - it doesn't make the sound just revving the engine in Park or N. Maybe more towards the front left-driver side? I've tried to record the sound, but neither my cell phone nor digi-cam can pick it up, and I don't have anything else w/a mic.

My '97 OB was @ 130K, $1500 @ a local shop, including t-belt and pulleys, and the heads. Mine never "blew" - just oil in the coolant, so I did it B4 it got hot. Sounds like time is worth more than $$ 2U right now; shop around and get referrals if you're going to keep the 2.5. Drop it off and pick it up in a couple days. I agree, just do the HG. You'll likely get another 50K (or maybe 100K+!) B4 any other major engine 'surprises'.... I did see a 2.5 on Ebay rebuilt and new HG sell for $800+shipping, so they're out there...but not likely if you need it yesterday. Also, the '95 2.2 swap is probably the cheapest and most reliable option, if you won't miss the 30+HP for the next few years. Been there...sorry UR2. Good luck.

'90 Legacy 4WD wagon. I bought the car w/136k and now has 139K. The 2 issues below haven't gotten any worse or better. I did do a complete flush of the tranny @ about 137K - no difference. Issue #1: When the car sits overnight or all day it does not move for 5 seconds or so after moving to D. It always eventually works and w/in 30 seconds it works fine. If I go home for lunch (3-4 hours of sitting), it's fine. There are no issues in normal driving - either in town or on the highway @ 75 - it shifts correctly. Fluid level is full. I found this online (http://consumerguideauto.howstuffworks.com/1990-to-1994-subaru-legacy-2.htm): Automatic transmission: If the transmission is slow to engage after being parked, the torque converter is draining down and a new cooler line with a check valve must be installed. (1990-91) I've called 2 Subaru shops and they've never heard of this issue and the parts department can't find the 'cooler line w/a check valve' in their parts books. Issue #2: When the car is warm or cold, and accelerating moderately a 'whirring' noice comes from the front. It occurs in all gears (or seems to) and occurs @ 2500-3000 RPM. It doesn't do it when the go pedal is floored or when lightly accelerating. I thought maybe it was a heat shield rattle, but ruled that out. The sound doesn't cause any problems w/accelerating - performance isn't affected. I did put the FWD fuse in for grins, and it's not as noticeable but still there. If you have any ideas feel free to enlighten me. I'm currently shopping for a 4EAT to have handy.

Cost me $150 for the passenger side last month - inner and outer. Local shop - not a chain. Keep shopping.

Trans is the same; rear diff is not - 4.11 for the '90-'91, 3.90 for the '92-'94.

I have a '90 Legacy...did you have any surging in RPM? Mine does when it's started when warm - not a cold start. Goes up and down from 1200 RPM to 500-ish for about 10-15 seconds. Otherwise car idles no worse than any other Sube I've had....like Manarius said, I consider it the Subie rumble.

I believe it's fixed.....w/new(er) wheels. I bought some used - '96 legacy - wheels off a guy on our local craigslist. Took 'em to a chain - Les Schwab - and they traded me the wheels for the mount/balance. Much better and no wiggle @ the 65-75. the shop said they mount the tires low spot to line-up w/the valve stem..just as one of the articles stated. I didn't check if the old tires were mounted that way. Thanks for the info and the links.....

Good story indeed! What year legacy uses 2 keys? I've had '90 - '98 Legacys/Outbacks and '00 and '03 Foresters, and they've all needed only one key. They usually have a Master key and a valet key. Was the other Legacy's locks changed, too - maybe? Oh, BTW, I stilstkmyft in mymowff re: Amsoil mileage. Someday I'll learn:rolleyes: .

Just put used '97 or '98 OB struts in my '90 Leg Wagon. The top hats on the REAR OB struts didn't line up.....so ghetto as it may be I just drilled new holes, rather than swap hats - no issues so far. I don't know if the '94s are different, but easy enough to measure 'em. Make sure you mark the front strut bolts for alignment. The top bolt is oval to adjust caster or camber (can't remember). I took mine in for an alignment afterwards and the toe was off by .4 degrees or something - barely worth the trouble - and that's it. So if you know it's aligned beforehand and watch strut bolts you probably won't need to realign it. The rear wheels were fine, too - was a 4-wheel thrust alignment. I put 205/75R14s on the OEM wheels, which are almost the same size as my 15" studded snows (leftover from another Sube). They both fit fine, but may rub slightly @ full lock....I don't offroad it, so don't know if they'd rub more @ full tilt. Good Luck!

1. Mirrors - Replace the switch. 2. Bad? Only in that you'll burn out the rear elements quicker...'though if they're still working on a '90 (so are mine ) maybe yours are bulletproof! 3. Go to a locksmith...you could take them the originals so ignition and doors would match. 4. 25k is too long even w/Amsoil - and oil filters are not designed for that long of an interval; I've never heard where changing too soon is bad, but have heard (Consumer Reports) that every 3k is unnecessary and is promoted by those that make $$ off it - lube shops and parts stores - unless you drive like NASCAR or othewise qualify as 'extreme use'. Remember to check the oil level every 1k, as Subes (and most/all cars) burn some oil - even says to expect it in the manual! I don't have an educated opinion about Amsoil, so I'll keep my foot out of my mouth. Good luck

'90 Legacy 4wd wagon, Auto. Vibration driving @ 65-75, most noticeable in shaking steering wheel. History: 1. Car had soft/bouncy struts, so I put used (60K) Outback struts on all 4 corners. 2. Put on my 15" Studs to fill up the wheel wells, which had a little vibe going on about 70, but nothing like now. 3. Put slightly used (still have nubs) 205/75R14 tires on the OEM wheels and vibration started. Took back to shop to re-balance and they showed me how the wheels are warped - not "true" maybe 1/8" off? Not out of round - but side-to-side. Wheels still balanced OK. Would the wheels cause the vibration? Or are the used tires more likely the cause? The old 185/70R14 didn't vibrate like the new ones...but maybe the soft struts masked it? Thanks

If it's right after the exhaust manifold, it's in front of the Cat. ...I've changed the front one by reaching down between the engine and firewall, and it's closer to the passenger side - on the US model. The other one is just behind the Cat on US models...about equal w/the driver's door. Can you get a wrench UNDER the heat shield or remove it? Otherwise, you'll need a O2 socket w/a cutout for the wire like these: http://www.autozone.com/in_our_stores/loan_a_tool/exhaust/oxygen_sensor_wrench_set.htm Good luck

Mine plugged right in.

Torque bind is AT AND AWD only, as far as I know.

Yeah, $1400 @ the most, esp. since it's only 2WD. Make sure you check the CVs. W/154k they're either done or will need done shortly. If you can fix the stuff yourself, that's a plus. If you want to fix the AC, it'll cost you big as it's the old stuff.....if you live on the we(s)t side of WA, you'll probably live w/out it?? Remember DON'T fall in love w/the 1st car you see....look @ a few others.

If I remember (no longer have the car ).....I pulled mine thru an access hole w/a rubber grommet under the rear left side where the pigtail connects. Dang it - I also did our RAV4 and hope I"m not confusing the two. I had about every piece of molding off the back inside of the RAV to run it. I know the OB was easier, regardless, and I know it was run to the outside, as I didn't want it getting in the way of the hatch opening/closing. Good luck!

Found this on Autozone's repair site: Position the rocker cover on the cylinder head and install the retainer bolts. Tighten the bolts .... 4 ft. lbs. (5 Nm) for 2.2L and 2.5L engines. When I did my '90 2.2L they didn't get tighter; the bolts just got tight and stopped - I couldn't turn them anymore to make 'em tighter even if I wanted; that's all the farther in they went. Yours do sound stripped, but why all 4??? That doesn't make sense. Unless, the previous owner/mechanic tightened them too much? If you pull the cover and put the bolts in w/out 'em does that give you any clues? Good luck.

Gal called in w/a 2000 Outback. About 4 times inside a year the car would get hot and a white mist would come into the cabin from under the dash; and 4 times the dealer replaced the heater core, which did fix it for a few weeks and up to 3 months one time. After the first or 2nd (?) heater core, the dealer also flushed the radiator and a white powder was discovered in the heater core (I think that's where she said), with a milky substance in the coolant. The dealer has ruled out a HG due to the lack of oily residue in the cooling system, but Click and Clack said that is still the likely culprit. They said the dealer should test for emissions/carbon-related substances again. What say U(SMB)?

Did you try resetting the computer - remove the negative battery terminal for 30 mins - ? If the light came on immediately after it came unplugged, I'd try it. That EA doesn't have a rear O2 sensor, does it? It would cause a CEL if it 'got confused' when wet. Good luck

Sounds like you got it, but another check is if your OB has the bleeder screw on the passenger side, like my '90 Legacy...If it does, open it just enough to let out either steam or coolant - air = bad; coolant=good. I fixed my air bubble by filling from the the top heater hose. Credit goes to Setright's write-up.