BoostedBalls

Well, a couple things... The intake plenum on a V8 engine doesn't make use of the Helmholm resonator the way a 3, 4, or split intake V6 does. A 3 cylinder chamber is ideal and anything over 4 is loosing pulse intensity and timing. The plenum volume is less critical when talking about turbo engines but there is a gain in power by using the right size. The same is true about header collectors in turbo and N/A engines. IMO, the spider intake is superior mainly becaise of the wider radius that the intake air has, giving more velocity and smoother air flow into the chambers. The spider intake will probably not work as well as the plain one in a carbed or TBI system because (A)the radius is too smooth to keep fuel suspended in the intake charge. That sharp 90 deg bend right before the inlet on a plain intake was designed with carbs in mind. ( The large plenum will weaken pulses needed to make the carb do it's job right. © The large plenum will allow a decrease in velocity, allowing the fuel to drop out of the air. Fuel weighs a lot more than air. The texture of the intake ports should be as smooth as possible in a MPFI system, the rough texture only helps to aggitate an air/fuel mixture to keep from puddling in a WET manifold (SPFI and carb setups). We are talking about DRY manifolds here. That air should glide through the intake with as little turbulance as possible, the turbulence is only a good thing as the WET mixture is blowing into the cylinder to help flame travel. This is the concept that most newer performance engines utilize.

I have a Crane Cams Fireball ignition ready to drop into the RX. Has anyone on here used a similar setup with the stock distributor? I'm guessing it's a magneticly triggered distributor, right? If so, should be easy.

Cool, I think 8,000 should be plenty. I might have to make a test fixture and do some comparisons.

I don't think it would be a good idea to use an XT6 throttlebody on ea82t spider intake. The plenum volume, intake runner diameter and length, plenum inlet (throttlebody) ratios will be thrown off. The inlet diameter actually has a lot to do with reverberation pulses that occur inside of the plenum chamber. This is designed with the Helmholm resonator theory in mind. This will change pulse signals inside the chamber and thus change performance. I think it would reduce the pulse amplitude and reduce power. It might be cool to try it. But I think the small stock throttlebody is not a bottleneck to the system when it's flowing at 15psi in a turbo engine. I would be more concered with the MAF sensor's ability to flow with only atmospere helping it.

Ooops, I actually thought that was constructive criticism, I wasn't trying to sound mean. I do appriciate what they are doing and I like to be involved, I just think it would create more involvment if the track was posted on the website for fine tuning by the guys that will be driving on it.

I wouldn't trust the meter on the dash, it has been in a vibrating environment for a long time. Think of it as a little better than an idiot light. Check voltage at the battery teminals as the car is idleing. Then move the + lead to the big connection on the alternator, 13.5vdc is good. They should be very close to the same voltage, if they are and the reading is over 13.5vdc, you are golden. If it is quite a bit higher at the alternator, you have a corroded connection or maybe a frayed wire. Usually at the alternator post. Voltage regulators are internal to the alternators and very robust. The GM alternators are a better unit IMO, but require some modification to the bracket. You could also take the NEGATIVE lead off the battery while the engine is running and check voltage again. This will take the battery charging load off the system.

I would take a flashlight and look into the hole to see how many threads you have past the stripped out area. If you have 5 or 6 good threads, I would clean it out with some carb cleaner and screw in a stud of the right length after coating the threads with JB weld. Not too tight! Then you just need to use a nut to hold the pully on. The stud will work better than a bolt with the limited threads because the twisting force is almost elliminated with the stud.

OK, so I'm getting the stage 2 delta cam profile and I want a few more RPMs. Does anyone know the stock valve spring pressure? I don't want to shim them if I can find some other springs that will hold 10-20% more pressure. I might have to take the spings in and compare them to some chevy or ford springs. Maybe I can get some titanium retainers to work on them too. Has anyone tried using solid lifters in the ea-82 engines? Any thoughts???

Yup, I think it's the last one of the season, I missed the first one because I didn't even see it on the schedule but oh well. I hope the track design is better than the last ones that seemed to be the same hair pin turn all the way around the track, cheezy at best. I want at least one good, wide turn. I'm thinking the guys that own the Justys must be designing the tracks. No room to slide around corners unless you are in a Justy or Festiva! might be worth the $30 to race, then again it might not be (again). ***if any of you track designer guys are reading this, please put an image of the track layout into the RallyX website prior to the race for everyone to see and make suggestions.

Right on, The automatic might actually be helping your times because you don't have to take your foot out of it and dump boost but the 2wd is killing your launches. Either way, sounds like it's working pretty damn good. What psi did you set your 5th injector at? Mine is at 12 psi and I'm about to install another one to come on at 17psi. I just want to see what this stock engine, turbo, cams combo is capable of. I have a fresh engine on the stand in my garage that's getting the works. Ported spider intake, ported heads, delta cams, equal length header, external wastegate, etc,etc. Nothing like whipping some V8s with an 80's 4 banger. My engine is running pretty rough right now though, sounds like crap until it warms up. I hope the 20psi+ spikes (that I didn't notice in the late night drags because I don't have a light on my boost gauge) didn't do any damage to the engine.

What??? We don't have any ea-82 guys in the 13's yet??? We just stepped up the challenge a bit uh? Ok, here goes the water injection and 6th injector. Time to pull the pin on this grenade. Turns out that my boost was pegging the 20psi boost gauge at the top of the track and cutting the ignition. I'll turn it down a little bit and dump in some more unmetered fuel with water/alky mix to see what happens. This thing leaves the line like mad then kinda looses juice at the top of the track. That is why I get 1.94 second 60' times and 9 seconds flat in the 1/8 mile at 75mph but only reach 93mph in the 1/4 mile. I'm working on an equal length stainless header for my T3 setup, it's about half done. I'll post some pix when I get er done. The primaries point at 45 degrees and meet towards the front of the car then turn and head back to the passenger side. I'm thinking about plumbing the wastegate right next to the oil filter and have it dump towards the right front tire. That should be obnoxious enough.

I bolted an XT6 clutch to a xt flywheel yesterday with the xt disc and it looked like it would work out just fine. I have the XT6 flywheel though so I'm gunna use it. Go for it!

I have one with the up-pipe already cut off. 10$ + shipping??? 97113

Yup, plumb the vac line anywhere downstream of the throttle plate. Just remember, the bigger the hose and the shorter the line, the quicker the BOV will actuate.

The 5th injector has nothing to do with the ECM, it comes on and stays on until boost goes back down. It can simply run through a pressure switch to the ignition. I would start with a good intercooler (ford Thunderbird) or the like and go from there. I have a lot of posts about the 5th injector when you get to that point.

Is it an automatic? If so, sometimes old ATF can look like oil in the coolant. That would of course be a bad radiator. If it has been sitting for a few months, the rings are probably rusted to the cylinder wall. You could still free it up and make it run but it will not have the greatest power if the rusted ring was close to top dead center. You would not want to just torque the crank bolt with a huge breaker bar to free it up, you will brake something. I use a grease gun as a hydraulic pump to pump about 10,000psi into the cylinder to force the piston down. Works every time. Just gotta combine a grease fitting and spark plug threaded end together and screw it into the spark plug hole.

No sealant on the gaskets, just make sure the surfaces are clean and flat. Those things have at least a few dozen tons of force squishing them flat. If you goop it up with something, gasket 'retention' will be comprimised. I only use sealant on the coolant ports of copper head gaskets and I scrape most of it back off with a razor blade.

wow, I'm assuming all of the old pan gasket was removed and the surfaces were cleaned with carb cleaner or something before installing the new gasket with Gaskasinch or something??? Is there a possibility that your crankcase is pressurizing? Any mods done to the PCV system? Sounds like pressure is building up big time in there. You could disconnect the driver side cam cover vent tube and plug the hose but leave the cam cover open to atmosphere and see if it has the same symptoms? Just a thought.

I'm using a balaster 2 coil and saw no improvement over stock. I am using some ancient crusty wires though and I don't know how it looks under the cap!

Not too shabby! I'm only .3 seconds ahead of you. And I'm launching with a locked rear, I'm also loosing power at the top of the track and my ignition cuts out for a second every damn time. I did put new plugs in it and closed the gap to .035" but it didn't help. Could even be clogged fuel filter. I'm guessing it's my crappy air-to-water IC that I built in like 2 hours. I have a monster aluminum one that should be enough for a big block v8, it's been sitting on the garage floor. I'll figure out my cut-out problem and hopefully be in the high 13's. I've got a fresh engine on the stand that is getting the heads ported and polished and matched to the spider intake. I also have a ton of 2" stainless tubing that I'll be TIG welding into a header and on goes the T3 with a .60 compressor and .63 turbine. You know what you should try for IC tubing??? Check craigslist for a free metal futon. No kidding, I got one just for that reason but decided to run a water-to-air. The futons have nice bends and thin, light tubing. Also, when you whip the mustang guy and he walks over to look at your engine, you can tell him how you used old furnature parts in your 80's 4 banger to beat his rump roast. haha

maybe they are the same injector and possibly the color indicates which factory it was made in. GM did some weird stuff like that. I'll mismatch them and start it with new plugs to see how it's squirtin' anyway.

If you find out that you need another one, I have a known good unit for $6 shipped in the lower states.

it doesn't have to be like the one pictured. Just make sure it's adjustable and make sure you loosen the adjustment screw way out before starting. They are usually preset around 65psi, that's a little high for our purposes! The ones I see on ebay are fine, you must use a relay with them though. The relay won't create any delay that you will notice. It's a good idea to mount an LED that is connected to the injector itself so you at least know when voltage is at the injector. These are used extensively in on the robots I work on at my job, the wires tend to come loose because the wire clamps suck. Use plenty of tiewraps so they don't come loose and toast your engine.

bump?

The BOV will not give you enrichment problems if you: A. Plum the discharge to the turbo inlet downstream of MAF. B. Lightly crush the canister while the engine is idling until the idle smoothens out. This keeps it closed until you really need it to be open. This will also allow it to operate at higher boost levels. I did this on my Eclipse BOV and it works awesome. Makes upshifting feel like you are spinning a 50lb flywheel. Placement, locate it as close to the throttlebody as possible. I did testing on this with mine. The air in the intake system should never have to change directions. If you have it too far from the throttle body, the pressurized air will have to stop when the throttle closes, turn around, dump, then turn back around again when the throttle opens back up. This will be a notacable hesitation. I put mine on the outlet side of the intercooler and it really made a difference compared to having it on the inlet side.