
idosubaru
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Everything posted by idosubaru
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What are my options with this stuck bolt
idosubaru replied to Joey Joe's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
wd40 sucks for this. liquid wrench and pb blaster are much better...though previous post person doesn't seem to like it. but it's still way better than wd40. -
it depends. when i do intake gaskets, sealant is never needed or used. but, it's not whether or not the sealant is needed when replacing the gaskets. the important question is "how clean are the mating surfaces". if they are clean then no sealant is needed. if you've done a terrible job cleaning or gouged the surfaces trying to clean them or someone else did then a sealant might be good insurance to thwart other issues.
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pulling the engine is probably the way to go for most people. that being said........ not really more work for me, just easy to work with being above the car. in my oppinion the transmission comes out much easier than the motor. i'm fairly confident i could have a transmission on the ground much faster than someone could have a motor out. there's throttle cables, engine mounts, intakes, heater core hoses, coolant/radiator hoses, wiring harnesses, ground wires, a/c lines, exhaust manifolds....there's more stuff to remove when pulling a motor. now getting the trans back in is always the pain. under the car, on your back and trying to maneuver it in place....that's the more work part on the install. if there's anything to attend to on the motor - timing belts, seals, gaskets...do it with the motor out. do those valve cover seals. super easy with the motor out, annoying in the car. timing belts?
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sea foam, how much it to much
idosubaru replied to 4x4moose's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
if you used any ultra grey sealant on anything like the cam carriers or oil pump housing, that can cause tapping as well. it'll get sucked up and caught in an oil port and retstrict oil flow to the HLA's. that's why anaerobic sealant should be used. someone on xt6.net sealed an oil pump or cam carrier with ultragrey and had tapping that wouldn't go away. he eventually tore it back down and found the ultragrey plugged into an oil port. posted pictures of it as well....may have posted on a different group though, i can't remember but i know he's on xt6.net sometimes. -
sea foam, how much it to much
idosubaru replied to 4x4moose's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
ATF works good too (if it's the HLA's sticking). i've used 2 out of 5 quarts of ATF in an XT6 i had years ago. didn't keep it in there long, maybe a week and a couple hundred miles at most. -
Compression Test Results
idosubaru replied to DirtyMech's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
doubt compression is an issue. those numbers look really high though. i would have expected around 160 for this motor, am i missing something? older soobs had 160 or less and newer ones have around 210 or so. that's what i thought anyway for the NA cars. -
Starting out on the wrong foot!
idosubaru replied to dmcdlrn's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
the timing covers and/or rusted bolts can be the trickiest part of the job. pry the timing covers off if the inserts just rotate inside the rear cover and the screw won't back out. gradually pry it off with a screw driver and the bolt with the insert still attached will slide out. replace it the same way if you want to keep the cover on there. have some liquid wrench or pb blaster handy and spray rusty bolts good. don't use WD40, the other stuff is better. the crank bolt can be tight, have a breaker bar handy for that. or just hang a socket on there and use the starter to crank the motor over and when the socket slams into the front motor mount or a conveniently placed block it'll back the bolt off too....if you're comfortable doing it that way, otherwise don't. -
sounds great, thanks guys. reinstalling the cams is straight forward? solid rockers/lifters? done timing belts before so that's no problem. just need the valve covers and cams to come off. i remove the intake bolts from the head and the a/c mount bolt on the XT6 and prop the intake up and out of the way without disconnecting much of anything, will i be able to pull that off on this motor too?
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Starting out on the wrong foot!
idosubaru replied to dmcdlrn's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
no offense meant. being blunt i guess because i'm at work, based on that i posted it was possible and you still mentioned you didn't see how they could come off. i ask other people to help me, i have no shame in that. the EA82 is cake, easiest timing belt i've ever done. too bad it's two and not just one, then it'd be really easy. you shouldn't have much trouble, you'll likely take your time the first time and may want to address other items while you're in there, but it can be done in about an hour. -
best bet is find someone to replace the head gasket. get a new gasket from subaru, they have remedy the issues of the originals. the newer engines/models have the upgraded head gasket in them and they will work in your vehicle....you will have to verify years, but i believe at least some of the 2000 year models (and up) have the upgraded gaskets. money is better spent on your motor, new gaskets, timing belt, and pulleys.
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Starting out on the wrong foot!
idosubaru replied to dmcdlrn's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
yes, non-interference. there are 3 parts to the cover. the center cover requries removing the crank bolt. the side covers don't require removing anything...except maybe the fan. just look at the covers more closely and you'll see around the edges, some bolts. or pull the distributor cap and look at the rotor to see if it spins. it's very straight forward, if you're confused and think the a/c or alternator is in the way then you need someone else to work on it for you. but it's very simple. -
Starting out on the wrong foot!
idosubaru replied to dmcdlrn's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
well if it's an EA82 the covers should be very easy to remove. it might be a little tight, but no big deal i don't think to get the right and left covers off. just need to have a peak. sounds like the thing might not be in great shape or someone did some hack work to it, hopefully you'll get it fixed. not exactly a prime subaru example to make a good impression with. the EA82 is a nice motor though, they are very durable. -
cool, thanks keith. i think i'll try it in the car. i've done others in the car, including the 6 cylinder XT6 and it's tight but doable. any special tools helpful? ratcheting wrenches are awesome for the XT6 for instance. i hate getting the engine lift ready, hooking it all up, coaxing it all out and...back in again, you get the point.
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Starting out on the wrong foot!
idosubaru replied to dmcdlrn's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
the timing covers take all of a couple minutes to remove, just 10mm bolts and the left and right covers come off, allowing you to look at the belt. compression test will also show a broken belt. if you here *slapping* while trying to start the car, that's the belt flopping around, but that's not a good idea as it could wrap onto something it shouldn't. remove the distributor cap is another method people use because the drivers side belt is the most likely to break. if the rotor isn't turning then the belt is broke. i don't like that method because it doesn't show you anything about the passengers side, which doesn't break as often, but can. and, you can remove the covers in about the same amount of time. -
that's basically what i'm saying. in comparison to pulling and installing a transmission, installing a drive shaft and rear diff is like buying a coffee. it's easy enough to figure the driveshaft and rear diff out later if he wants to go ahead and install the trans now. could do the driveshaft and rear diff last or he could lock the center diff and drive it in FWD until he figures out the ratios and locates the parts. those parts are easy to find as well. obviously never drive with the wrong ratio, he would definitely have to figure his ratio out sometime, now or later.
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this topic has been covered twice this week. you didn't mention what car/motor you're installing them on. if it's any newer motor...i would guess you have a 2.2 or 2.5 then you want to install Subaru OEM wire only. the only aftermarket wires i'd even think about installing on the newer motors are magnecor: http://www.magnecor.com (you can buy them cheaper elsewhere though). some on the board say Subaru OEM wires only. either way you choose, don't even try some other brand or something from the parts store, bad idea on these motors due to the deep wells and difficulty in seating the wires.
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rear wheel bearing tool ,
idosubaru replied to 86subaru's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
if it's the same as the XT6: http://www.etoolcart.com./index.asp?PageAction=PRODSEARCH&txtSearch=SU-022&btnSearch=GO&Page=1