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idosubaru

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Everything posted by idosubaru

  1. make sure this lever/catch is working PERFECTLY....i've had one that's been like that for about a year...catches and sticks sometimes and acts goofy. driving 55mph, the hood flew up and slammed into my windshield. that hood was toasted, all bent to crap. okay about a month later i'd learn my lesson right...nope sure didn't. flew up again just like 2 weeks ago and and ruined yet another hood...this one is still usable at least but looks like crap. luckily i hadn't smashed the windshield yet so it just added 123,342 cracks to the existing 45,648. make sure it's working perfect. i'm weird and laugh it off, but most people would likely flip out at the action that's created when a hood flies into a windshield at 55mph. and this is fortunatley close to home, traffic isn't much to speak of. elsewhere would have been dangerous.
  2. i woudln't reuse that head without someone familiar with repairing cracks looks at it. those cracks in general are normal though...can't say i've pulled too many EA82 or ER27 heads without those cracks in them. i have them repaired all the time, an aluminum head specialist in my town is familiar with these heads and uses stitch pins and maybe some welding to fix them. they fix them all in the heads i give them. never seen any go all the way through like that one picture, i'd defintiely can that one myself just cause it's so scarry looking. but it's probably fixable.
  3. Problem solved, thanks guys for the support. Pulled the distributor cap and the new rotor was torn to bits on the end and the new distributor cap was gouged up as well? The rotor was perfectly seated and bolted on tight. I have no idea what happened. So i installed an entirely new disrtributor along with a new cap and rotor obviously. It started right up. I'm thinking the distributor was to blame becuase even when i had spark it never even thought about starting. Who knows maybe someday i'll drop that old distributor in one of my motors to see if it works.
  4. Okay, i went through the starting troubleshooting diagrams and everything tested fine? the power transistor probably just overheated from too much attempted starting. swapped in a good unit and all is well now...except the car won't start. I have spark at each cylinder (new plugs, cap, rotor). I have fuel after the pressure regulator. I have near perfect compression. The fuel injectors all tested good and open/close with 12 volts applied? any ideas? the crank angle sensor testing in the FSM says to rotate engine and see that the pin-out at the ECU alternates between 0 and 5 volts as it's rotated. mine alternates between 0 and like 3.x volts at the highest...never makes it to 5. But i connected another distributor and got about the same values so i can't imagine that would be the cause. maybe i'll swap it anyway. not sure where to go from here, anyone know how to verify the injectors are trying to open?
  5. oh my goodness that's alot of info! anyone speak english? just kidding...i'll get on it tomorrow. thanks!
  6. i edited the first post to include what car. primary circuit what does that mean? i went through the FSM testing of the grounds and power circuits and the fuel injectors as well and all tested out good...but that was last week when i was at least getting spark. guess i'll start over. any suggestions on that power transistor/ignition coil burning up would be great.
  7. i have no spark from the ignition coil and it will not start. either the power transistor or the ignition coil get extremely hot while the car is ON or trying to be started. i believe it's the power transistor getting hot...it's very hot, can't touch it, smoking off hot. i installed another power transistor and coil (known good units) and it did the same thing....got really hot again? i looked through the FSM and can't really see what would cause that to overheat like that. EDIT - this is for an XT6
  8. i like the idea of finding the tool to screw this thing in all the way. can he just use a bolt with the same pitch threads as the spark plugs (M18x1.5 for the EA82's...don't know EA81), anyway, screw a bolt down the spark plug hole until the head seats against the insert....then if you keep cranking on it, won't it eventually thread down further? guess it depends how well/not so well it was drilled out to begin with? for us that can't stand to take our stuff in....whatever is left over after shawn's method can surely be smoothed out with some grinding accessories, access to the insert is the only thing making this difficult. even a very large drill bit carefully manipulated could machine that down close to stock.
  9. pull the hoses and flush out the heater core with either your garden hose or an air compressor or both. might need to get some cleaning agent in there and actually clean it out....but you wouldn't want anything harsh for your heater core. i'd see how just a basic flush does, i'd bet alot of gunk comes out. someone on xt6.net just had this same problem and fixed it by blowing the heater core as i just mentioned. someone else actually bought a small pump and created a little system to keep a solution of water and cleaning agent running through the heater core. pretty hard core just to flush it out, but if it's bad enough maybe that's necessary? you can go to www.xt6.net and read the current thread about it.
  10. can you jack each side up and see which wheel is to blame? emergency brakes can get stuck/caught. i had a front dragging brake on my way home from work (60 miles to get home)....pulled the wheel off and eventhough the e-brake handle was all the way down the actual lever pulling it was stuck and still applying force. disengaged it and it's worked fine every since. i rebuilt the calipers and greased up the e-brake mechanism shortly after. if the brake is mushy sounds like some other kind of problem though...was it properly bled?
  11. if you can get to the dust seal, inject some grease in there to at least give you some time if you can't fix it right away. but i'd be very leary about driving it anymore, the wheel bearings won't last very long at this point. you can probably find a used hub (SOMEONE ON THE BOARD certainly has one), for like 25 bucks and install it. that's what i would do. replacing bearings can be tricky and requires special tools on the rear. go the marketplace forum or call some yards and install a used one. i just picked up 4 rear struts from someone on the marketplace forum from 87 4x4 wagons....post over there and snag a used one. i've got 200,000+ on rear bearings with no issues. i've never had to replace wheel bearings, not sure why i'm so fortunate as i've done plenty of off roading in those 200,000 miles. that's why i'd install used ones, i've had good luck with the originals.
  12. are you sure it's oil? could it just be grease from some moving part back there? what color was it? could it be coolant?
  13. they are hard to come by in general and not really needed at all. you said flywheel so that means a manual trans...just put the car in gear to keep it from turning over. if it's the first time it's been done in awhile it might be really tight. try 1st and 5th and reverse....forget which one will work best. also put the emergency brake on and block the tires (the car may want to move or rock some as you turn the engine with the trans engaged). a super quick method for crank bolt removal is to attach the 22mm socket to the crank pulley and bump the starter (but don't start the car, pull the ignition coil wire). socket will spin around, hit the lower engine mount and knock the bolt loose. it's like the cavemans' impact wrench.
  14. have you checked the gear oil in it? check quantity and see what it looks like? just changing it/filling it up may help some. might want to do a search, i've read other threads about people smoothing out shifting with different gear oils/additives.
  15. don't see how the diffs could slip in a manual trans. either the gears are working or they are not. start loosing teeth on your gears and they won't slip, it'll be really noisey. i have an LSD and use full synthetic in that as well. are you concerned about something in particular because this is a very basic question. if you drain oil, replace it. brand new synthetic can't be wose than the decades old 100's of thousands of mile stuff in there now. if you're really concerned about it, use regular fluids they won't cause any problems either.
  16. get new/matching tires on it. might take a little bit of driving straight for the FWD to engage. have you tried driving it or just installing the fuse and turning the car on? if you can get new tires on it, i wouldn't be surprised if everything works fine afterwards. wouldn't be surprised if something is wrong either, but i wouldn't assume the worst just yet. the AWD's just don't drive well with mismatched tires.
  17. i use full synthetic in my rear diffs, manual trans, front diffs. others here do as well. i asked a dealer, Subaru dealer in atlanta uses Pennzoil full synthetic, they even sold it there when i stopped in a few years ago. or at least they were going to sell me a bottle (it was very expensive, so i got it elsewhere). i use valvoline just because. Synpower i believe it's called. no problems here.
  18. check the wiring and/or connector. pull it off (i know it's a pain to get at/see) and see if you see any corrosion on the contacts. that's the starting point for many sensor issues on soobs.
  19. 160,000 miles? you can get away with just replacing the head gaskets without issue. it would be nice to do it perfect and have a complete valve job, cracks repaired, valve seals replaced and all that but you would be fine to do it if the motor ran fine prior like boostednuts said. i'd be more concerned about cleaning the head bolts and head bolt holes out really good so the head gasket lasts. don't forget to retorque the head gaskets if the manufacturers calls for it. Subaru OEM EA82 head gaskets require a retorque. in which case, don't seal your cam carriers when you install them. leave them clean...run the motor up to operating temperature like the retorque procedure calls for. then open it up, retorque and install the cam carriers with sealant after retorquing it. no point in cleaning up and installing with sealant twice...that's an annoying task to do once even. i ordered valve stem seals for an XT6 from the dealer before, surprised they couldn't hook you up. not enough time maybe? mabye someone on the group has some to send you? i'm kind of far, but i have some XT6 valve stem seals at home that would work on an EA82...guess the carbed ones are the same. all these members in washington i'd guess someone has some lying around like i do, post in the marketplace forum maybe?
  20. as much as i think it good that you don't tow, i'm not excited you're making a decision that you didn't want to make. but if you do, the fact that you did the right thing is certainly nothing to be ashamed of. why not keep the soob? my old roomate had 3 old BMW's and they were solidly unreliable to say the least. edit - i'm sorry...he had 3 porshe's and 1 BMW...but they were still all unreliable!
  21. that's an average deal....the engine work doesn't matter...who did it and how good of a job they did makes all the difference. since you can't garauntee that, then that is an added risk...maybe a small one, but an added risk. if you can get the paper work for the engine work showing exactly what was replaced and who did it....i'd lean more towards buying the car personally. timing belts break sometimes, i wouldn't consider that neglect....it may be, but not all the time. the belt can break, the pulley bearings can go bad and break the belt as well. i'd look around and compare deals. look up some subaru's on craigslist and autotrader and compare. i picked up a 60,000 mile 97 OBS for $3,600 this year. the kicker is some hail damage, dimples in the body. i'll trade that for an excellent vehicle anyday. i recommend 100,000 or less miles. subarus are good to 200,000+ sure, but wheel bearings, alternators, starters, u-joints, brake calipers, trans...all of these things have much higher failure rates at 200,000 than 100,000. i'd rather be closer to the 100,000 mile end if i were recommending something for complete reliability. i drive 200,000+ mile subarus' but i know how to fix them and rebuild my bearings, ujoints, replace alts and starters, i know what i'm doing. for strict out of the box reliability i like to recommend to friends something 100,000 or less. that's why i picked up the 60,000 mile OBS for my wife. but again...if the engine rebuild was indeed done and it has all new components that is a very good thing. were the pulleys/tensioners replaced? paper work on the rebuild would be nice, verifying what and who did the work in case there are any questions.
  22. mr.radon on www.xt6.net converted his FWD XT6 to AWD. not easy, but not impossible. he did have to do some cutting/welding for something but i can't recall what it was. i think the center bearing support mounting bolts for the driveshaft.....but that's from memory. personally i'd rather take my driveshaft to a driveshaft shop and have them build me a single piece driveshaft anyway. then that wouldn't be an issue. actually...maybe those holes were there but the front differential mounting flange was not present so that had to be installed and required some cutting, welding. yours could differ from the XT6. look for 2 mounting locations for the center bearing support and also the rear differential mounting locations. if you have those it would simplify things.
  23. there are 8 on my property and i just sold two. i don't really have blocks since i'm surrounded by farms, but there's a 2.5 RS right down from me.
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