idosubaru

i like them as well, i buy most of my parts from them and was planning on the bearings from them as well. thanks! buy never needing bearings, do you actually check them somehow? you reuse them? for $30 i'll just buy them, but curious about rebuilds since this will be my first. thanks all this should be funning learning...

here's a link to a thread talking about it: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=40472

i saw in the ultimate subaru repair manual a listing for installing some kind of shock to it....i assume for the purpose of lifting. see if you can find the USRM i just mentioned...not sure how i came across it.

cool, standard rings it is and new main bearings as well. thanks!

farmboy...got a place to hunt, send me a PM or email! can't help you out with meets and such. not sure how many soobs there are in NC/SC...guess we'll find out who posts. if you have a brat, post in the older generation forum. this is the newer generation, so brat and older soob owners may not look here.

timing belts have to be dead on. when each cam is lined up with the notch the flywheel marks should be dead on. and the cam marks are 180 degrees off from each other. the distributor can be very annoying to set straight. rotor pointing to 20 degrees sounds about right though. but the distibutor turns twice for every turn of the crank so you may have it lined up 180 degrees off. install it 180 degrees out and see if that fixes it. if you don't want to randomly reinstall it 180 degrees off, the way to get it exact or to check would be to remove the valve covers and spark plug #1. look for the piston through the plug hole, get it all the way to TDC (flashlight helps). once it's there, have a look at your valves (really have to deduce their position from the cam follower position, but same thing) and make sure they are both closed. if it's the exhaust stroke they'll both be open. you can also put your finger over the spark plug hole as you turn the motor over by hand and when you feel it pushing air out, that's on the compression stroke. i've never had much luck doing that...but maybe it was too cold and my hands were numb or something. once you verify the piston is TDC on the compression stroke (and not the exhaust stroke) then your rotor should be at #1 with the flywheel at 20 degrees.

i'd probably install the evap canister hoses for now, i think one is a vacuum line and should at least be plugged if it's open. pull the valve covers and have a look at the cam followers (rocker arms). make sure all are seated. heard of them not being perfectly seated before, think yo'ud experience something like you have. a compression test would be nice. lining up the distributor can be tricky, make sure it's dead on.

arch emailed awhile ago and mentioned "thrust washers" are needed for a complete rebuild. what are those? would i need them?

bought an EA82 from a guy and he had a brand new shiny block sitting there and asked if i wanted that too. sure, why not? if the crank spec's fine and the block is new, then standard sized bearings should be fine to use. piston rings? anyone ever use those gapless rings on the EA82?

good point, if you're just trying to save the coolant....capture it. i believe there's usually a radiator drain cock...sorry, that's really what it's called! anyway, turn the valve and the little hose drains coolant...tyipcally slow, but drains coolant. remove a cap for it to come out faster. if you're trying to get around burping the system of air....nothing i can think of.

i laid it against two others and all looked the same. i have another rotor of the same part number and all, i'm taking it back and checking it out again. bought same time as distributor so should be for the 6 cylinder but who knows.

not that i can think of.

FYI: for an XT6 any EJ series struts have to have the XT6 strut tops swapped onto them to work. So i'm guessing the front strut extensions would have to be a whole new animal for the XT6 if they install on the top of the strut. The bottom of an EJ series strut can work on the XT6, but not the top.

I have a new EA82 block. This is a brand new block with zero miles on it. I'll be building an NA EA82 with the 9.5:1 or whatever they are XT6 pistons. I have the pistons, rods and rod bearings. I shouldn't use used bearings right? What is a good source for main bearings and rings? Are aftermarket rings okay...those Topline kits you see on ebay for instance? Will it need honing...i guess i can just look to see if it has crosshatching already?

make sure this lever/catch is working PERFECTLY....i've had one that's been like that for about a year...catches and sticks sometimes and acts goofy. driving 55mph, the hood flew up and slammed into my windshield. that hood was toasted, all bent to crap. okay about a month later i'd learn my lesson right...nope sure didn't. flew up again just like 2 weeks ago and and ruined yet another hood...this one is still usable at least but looks like crap. luckily i hadn't smashed the windshield yet so it just added 123,342 cracks to the existing 45,648. make sure it's working perfect. i'm weird and laugh it off, but most people would likely flip out at the action that's created when a hood flies into a windshield at 55mph. and this is fortunatley close to home, traffic isn't much to speak of. elsewhere would have been dangerous.

i woudln't reuse that head without someone familiar with repairing cracks looks at it. those cracks in general are normal though...can't say i've pulled too many EA82 or ER27 heads without those cracks in them. i have them repaired all the time, an aluminum head specialist in my town is familiar with these heads and uses stitch pins and maybe some welding to fix them. they fix them all in the heads i give them. never seen any go all the way through like that one picture, i'd defintiely can that one myself just cause it's so scarry looking. but it's probably fixable.

Problem solved, thanks guys for the support. Pulled the distributor cap and the new rotor was torn to bits on the end and the new distributor cap was gouged up as well? The rotor was perfectly seated and bolted on tight. I have no idea what happened. So i installed an entirely new disrtributor along with a new cap and rotor obviously. It started right up. I'm thinking the distributor was to blame becuase even when i had spark it never even thought about starting. Who knows maybe someday i'll drop that old distributor in one of my motors to see if it works.

Okay, i went through the starting troubleshooting diagrams and everything tested fine? the power transistor probably just overheated from too much attempted starting. swapped in a good unit and all is well now...except the car won't start. I have spark at each cylinder (new plugs, cap, rotor). I have fuel after the pressure regulator. I have near perfect compression. The fuel injectors all tested good and open/close with 12 volts applied? any ideas? the crank angle sensor testing in the FSM says to rotate engine and see that the pin-out at the ECU alternates between 0 and 5 volts as it's rotated. mine alternates between 0 and like 3.x volts at the highest...never makes it to 5. But i connected another distributor and got about the same values so i can't imagine that would be the cause. maybe i'll swap it anyway. not sure where to go from here, anyone know how to verify the injectors are trying to open?

oh my goodness that's alot of info! anyone speak english? just kidding...i'll get on it tomorrow. thanks!

i edited the first post to include what car. primary circuit what does that mean? i went through the FSM testing of the grounds and power circuits and the fuel injectors as well and all tested out good...but that was last week when i was at least getting spark. guess i'll start over. any suggestions on that power transistor/ignition coil burning up would be great.

i have no spark from the ignition coil and it will not start. either the power transistor or the ignition coil get extremely hot while the car is ON or trying to be started. i believe it's the power transistor getting hot...it's very hot, can't touch it, smoking off hot. i installed another power transistor and coil (known good units) and it did the same thing....got really hot again? i looked through the FSM and can't really see what would cause that to overheat like that. EDIT - this is for an XT6

i like the idea of finding the tool to screw this thing in all the way. can he just use a bolt with the same pitch threads as the spark plugs (M18x1.5 for the EA82's...don't know EA81), anyway, screw a bolt down the spark plug hole until the head seats against the insert....then if you keep cranking on it, won't it eventually thread down further? guess it depends how well/not so well it was drilled out to begin with? for us that can't stand to take our stuff in....whatever is left over after shawn's method can surely be smoothed out with some grinding accessories, access to the insert is the only thing making this difficult. even a very large drill bit carefully manipulated could machine that down close to stock.

pull the hoses and flush out the heater core with either your garden hose or an air compressor or both. might need to get some cleaning agent in there and actually clean it out....but you wouldn't want anything harsh for your heater core. i'd see how just a basic flush does, i'd bet alot of gunk comes out. someone on xt6.net just had this same problem and fixed it by blowing the heater core as i just mentioned. someone else actually bought a small pump and created a little system to keep a solution of water and cleaning agent running through the heater core. pretty hard core just to flush it out, but if it's bad enough maybe that's necessary? you can go to www.xt6.net and read the current thread about it.

can you jack each side up and see which wheel is to blame? emergency brakes can get stuck/caught. i had a front dragging brake on my way home from work (60 miles to get home)....pulled the wheel off and eventhough the e-brake handle was all the way down the actual lever pulling it was stuck and still applying force. disengaged it and it's worked fine every since. i rebuilt the calipers and greased up the e-brake mechanism shortly after. if the brake is mushy sounds like some other kind of problem though...was it properly bled?

if you can get to the dust seal, inject some grease in there to at least give you some time if you can't fix it right away. but i'd be very leary about driving it anymore, the wheel bearings won't last very long at this point. you can probably find a used hub (SOMEONE ON THE BOARD certainly has one), for like 25 bucks and install it. that's what i would do. replacing bearings can be tricky and requires special tools on the rear. go the marketplace forum or call some yards and install a used one. i just picked up 4 rear struts from someone on the marketplace forum from 87 4x4 wagons....post over there and snag a used one. i've got 200,000+ on rear bearings with no issues. i've never had to replace wheel bearings, not sure why i'm so fortunate as i've done plenty of off roading in those 200,000 miles. that's why i'd install used ones, i've had good luck with the originals.