idosubaru

not positive, but i think the lines don't really matter. it's two lines going into a box, flow doesn't matter so long as the lines aren't kinked or obstructed in anyway. i used to do it this way, but i've since determined it's better to drain the ATF pan and refill. do it three times and consider it flushed. i want many 100's of thousands of miles out of mine and think this the better method. i've done both methods on the same vehicle and i don't really know if it gets that much more out than just emptying the pan to be honest with you. i never noticed "that" much more coming out cranking the motor than just draining the pan.

i'm putting together a motor for my XT6 and XT Turbo right now. valve job, heads milled and tested by the machine shop. i wanted to remove the valve train myself just to do it before i took the heads into the machine shop. and i was going to smooth out some of the casting flash in the ports. thanks for the help all.

i don't know what happens with warranty and modifying engines....depends on the contracts you sign when you buy i suppose. synchro's are likely replaceable, but i'd find a used trans for $500 before i spent that kind of money to open up the trans. i'm not familiar with these newer transmissions, so maybe the clutch adjustment or something else is to blame? i'm not saying i'm right, but i'd start sourcing something to replace it just in case.

so i should have new turbo gaskets for the install of the new long block?

the box around it means it's a generation III i believe.

i agree as well, the only thing i like about aftermarket pulleys (i prefer full size) is the one piece design. i hate the stock design with the rubber ring seperating two metal rings....leads to possible separation and failure possibilities. that's just because i'm an engineer, why introduce a possible failure mode? i mean i understand the concept, but never noticed unbalance or vibrations with a one piece design.

is it still under warranty? have the transmission replaced. sounds like synchro's, but that sure is early.

definitely replace it. that's alot of work to install an old bearing. i recall someone on hear not replacing something and it failing within a year...i think it was a throwout bearing but i can't remember exactly.

im' not sure what yo'ure asking but i'll comment. in terms of quality, so long as it's turned properly on a machine and the measurements are right the material properties won't differ significantly enough to cause any issue. someone else had an underdrive pulley and opted for a full sized aluminum pulley in it's place due to charging issues. i asked about this earlier this year when i picked up an impreza OBS. basically i think the advantage of an underdrive vs. stock sized aluminum is non-existent therefore it's not worth the added stress to the charging system. the only advantage is that they are cheaper and easier to find. most likely because the demand isn't there. if supply is larger then demand then price stays down. if you plan on highway driving and think that may resolve any issue then let us know how it goes after awhile.

i don't know if yours is FI or not..i think it is? i pulled my motor, resealed it and couldn't get it started after reinstalling. no CE light, no trouble codes, everything seemed to test okay. i actually got it to start and run only by advancing it an entire tooth....timing was off the charts and couldn't figure out why. ended up driving it like this for a couple months. didn't drive great, but it did drive fine, no back firing, no pinging, a little on the slow and less mpg side. i finally started troubleshooting it again and when i swapped distributors the problem went away. set it to normal timing with the new (used) distributor and ran perfect with stock timing. i'm assuming the crank angle sensor was bad....but who knows, i can't figure why it ran fine with the timing all jacked up...the distributor failed in some way. that was a few years ago, same thing happened a month ago, car wouldn't start after setting for a couple weeks while doing some tune-up stuff to it. everything tested fine, just woudln't start. distributor seemed to test fine, no CE light. swapped in another distributor and it fired right up? both times i had a failed distributor was while the car was off the road for an extended period...maybe existing corossion got worse internally, i have no idea, but very strange to me that i lost two distributors, neither while using the vehicle, but both while the vehicles was taken off the road for tune/up or repairs for a few weeks.

okay i bought a valve spring compressor at Advanced Auto Parts. either the user or the tool was a piece of useless illwitted machinery. it would occassionally compress the spring...wanting to slip and pop out and break my fingers. typically the hooks wouldn't hold and it wouldn't want to compress at all at a setting where i could hold the handle closed with one hand and work with the other hand. and the keepers only came off on one that i tried. the rest would stay "with the spring" so to speak, i push down and the spring goes down and the keeper with it. leaving me no way to remove the keepers and spring. so it was pointless. i ended up taking it to the shop and letting them deal with. very annoying. is there a better tool for this?

best bet is to get another set of wheels for your snow tires. then just swap out sets of wheels as needed. otherwise if it's done right you can swap your tires whenever you want without issue. headgaskets were issues on the older motors....like 2001 and earlier, so you've got nothing to worry about. the newer head gasket designs have elminated the problem. on the temperature range - different years/models have different visual ranges. in other words 180 degrees on one model might be 1/4 of the gauge and 1/2 up the gauge on another model. my XT6's (older subaru's) run about 1/4 - 1/3 up the gauge. they never get 1/2 way...if they do i know there's a problem. when i got a newer impreza outback sport i noticed immediately the gauge was always around 1/2 way as well and thought it might be something to look into . talked to a couple other OBS owners and they said that was normal. being a newer model i'd guess it's similar to what you're talking about and probably not an issue. i've also been in cars where the heat is hot enough that you really can't stand to keep your hand right on the vent...too hot, i don't believe that's necessarily an issue either.

awesome, thanks! i woudln't have thought of that, pull the motor with the turbo attached? didnt' think of that one. so disconnect the exhaust past the header/exhaust manifold (by the catalytic converter)? part of the exhaust will come with it or disconnect just the turbo and leave all the exhaust in the car?

i have a carbed block with turbo heads and new gaskets sitting in my barn. i have a 87.5 FT4WD XTTurbo with a bad motor (heads, block, don't know yet). how hard is it to swap my good block with heads into the turbo car? on the XT6 and NA EA82's i'm used to unbolting the instake manifold assembly and lifting it out of the way, dropping in the new block and then lowering the intake back on top of the new block. can i do that with the turbo too? sounds like it should be a fairly easy swap to get the car back on the road quickly.

i agreed with nipper, i wouldn't even discuss synthetics until you get an aftermarket trans cooler installed with your new trans. much more valuable tool in keeping your trans lasting.

larger valves for the XT6/XT motors? never heard of anyone doing it and the head shop didn't show any listings from their one preferred supplier.

it's not bad.....i had a local shop quote me $200 to install a trans that i had. had a recently seperated shoulder, so i was shopping around, ended up doing it myself anyway. trans comes out easy enough by yourself. if you don't have an engine lift, drop it on an old sheet or piece of carpet. slide it out from under the car. like he just said, make sure you seat the last 1/4" of the torque converter. it's tricky to get in place, have to keep turning and trying to seat it, just a little patience. it's hard to tell and if you try to bolt it up without seating it all the way you'll break stuff. with two jacks you can install a new one yourself, i've done it from under the car. if you have an engine lift you can definitely do it yourself really easy, pull the motor and trans as a unit together. swap trans, reinstall both as a unit.

2,300 is high for head gaskets and clutch. depends how much you drive....at 70,000 and with overheating i'd go ahead and replace everything myself. if you drive 20,000 a year, by next year you'll be close to needing a timing belt and paying another 600 or more to do it again. they quoted my cousin $699 just to replace the timing belt and water pump...no oil pump, cam seal, pulley replacement. i did it for her for cost of parts and replaced everything, came out much much cheaper. anyway....like i said, depends on how much you drive and how long you want to put off your next visit. they MUST remove the timing belt to touch the heads, i'd rather them just put a new one in. they will be installing a belt, it's just a matter of it being the old one or a new one. i think the belt is only $59 or $79. pay that now to avoid a $500-$700 hit in a year or two sounds like a good idea to me. they should check the pulley's and let you know which ones are free spinning or noisey (in other words - bad). good luck

the 2.2 is a great motor and runs forever, but be advised it also doesn't pull like the 2.5. if it's a DOHC i'd get rid of it. if it's a SOHC i'd put new gaskets in it, the dealer was right in that the newer gaskets have few issues. i don't recall reading anyone having this occur after the new gasket were installed. (though i'm sure it has happened...at least due to overheating, water pump failure or somethign).

and tim...if that's for a complete package i'll buy ever one you have in stock.

i have an XT Turbo, a bunch of XT6's and know plenty of people with XT6's that could probably use them as well. i will be buying a good many of these, otherwise i wouldn't post and would have bought them by now. any info is much appreciated. i'm thinking of just coming up with some alternative as the stock ones suck anyway in my oppinion.

$2.98 each at advanced auto parts. that's almost $50 per car just for dinky grommets, exactly what i'm getting fired up about.

i think so too...but they are expensive. i want cheap!

same hear, no noticeable difference. like they said, the pulley spins freely and the compressor isnt' actually engaged (or shouldn't be). if you want to be sure, remove the belt and make sure the a/c pulley free wheels as it should. if it does then removing it won't do anything. if it's tight then maybe it'll help a teeny bit and keep your belts lasting longer. the a/c pulley can seize or otherwise become tight due to malfunction, this would reduce the belt life and possibly gas mileage performance but isn't normal for an a/c compressor. under normal (most) circumstances there is nothing to gain....like mentioned earlier....a very small (unmeasureable) amount. on some vehicles the a/c kicks in on certain climate control functions...for instance selecting defrost on some models will turn the a/c on to help keep the condensation off the windows. so if you're running your defrost alot, the a/c compressor would be engaging....but not really doing anything and in this case could save you some performance/gas mileage. i don't know if this is an issue on your make/model, it is on the XT6. if it is, disconnect the electrical connector to the compressor to be sure it's never engaging. those are drive belts, accessory belts or serpentine belts. timing belts are another animal, under the plastic covers below the a/c. can't readily see them without removing the covers.

where can i get valve cover grommets cheap? i need one for an EA82 and a couple ER27 sets......100 dollars for dinky little grommets seems rediculous. i've checked thepartsbin, rockauto...., all run $2 a piece or more and there are 9 per EA82 and 14 per ER27 motor. if that's the case i'll make my own little grommet gaskets or use some kind of o-ring.