idosubaru

my parents dodge caravan my XT6 and impreza OBS

i'm not an EA82 master, but im about to swap an NA into a turbo (the opposite of what you're talking about) and it doesn't appear to be that difficult. almost a straight swap - just need new intake and ypipe for the exhaust to remove the turbo and that's it. your 87 might be carbed? i'll let someone else detail that as i dont know much about carbed. if it's MPFI it'll be an easy swap really.

good deal, follow the other suggestions and let us know what you find.

if it's isolated to one cylinder (use a mechanics stethoscope or long piece of balsa wood to listen), then it is certainly related to one or both HLA's at that cylinder. a compression test can sometimes verify this if it's bad enough. good compression all around and bad compression at the one noisey cyilnder will point to a bad HLA. i'm confident in diagnosing just by listening, so you should be able to do that. nice to know which cylinder that way you know for sure which to replace if you ever have to pull it apart. regular oil changes and MMO, Seafoam or ATF treatment often alleviates noisey HLA's....particularly if they "come and go". if they tick all the time, they may be permanently seized. get 'em early and you can get them clean with oil changes and the above recommendations. if you're leaking oil around the oil pump then that is a sure sign of oil pump issues. if all the HLA's are noisey then that's a good sign of oil pump issues as well. the mickey mouse gasket will essentially leak internally most of the time, so leakage isn't of great importance really. have you changed/checked the oil level recently. fresh oil change never hurts.

i sorted through 11 pages worth of searching and turned up nothing. if the intake manifold is the only difference, that would be nice as you can leave that in the car anyway to swap long blocks. i can't imagine the block or heads being different? maybe a dealer could answer this?

cool thanks guys! i'm buying a couple sets tomorrow.

anything is possible but if you're having bad preformance it is most likely related to the valves not opening/closing properly because the HLA's are not doing their job. best to track down the cause. you would want to know if it's oil supply related (oil pump seals) or HLA related (sticky/dirty). answering these questions will determine that. is it all over the place, or isolated to one side or cylinder? have you had any recent oil loss or leakage?

rebuilt with mitzpah is the way to go. now that the engine is together, pulling it apart to replace one lifter is labor intensive and not in anyone's best interest at this point. if it's put together well , running well, not leaking then there's no other reason to tear it down. this isn't that common and i wouldn't fault the rebuilder. i'm sure he would have used the rebuilt HLA's had he known about mitzpah ahead of time. you said, "if it's gummed up, it's bad"....that's true but not to the point it needs replacement. at this point i'd run seafoam, MMO or ATF in the oil for awhile. it can get "ungummed" for the lack of a better way of putting it. change the oil like a mad-man. if it's only doing it occasisionally then frequent oil changes should clear it up...this can take months though. MMO, ATF or seafoam will expediate the process. again....change your oil ALL THE TIME and your HLA's will treat you much better. i've pulled apart motors with 120,000 miles that were dirty and nasty with carbon build up and i've pulled apart motors with 200,000 miles that looked like they just came out of the factory, crystal clean with no build up. i attribute that to oil change intervals and driving conditions. did i mention you should change your oil alot?

agreed, i really like the air-ride better than any coil overs i've driven in. im' sure with some effort a good spring/strut combination would provide excellent feel, but not with the coil overs i've done and driven in. also agree on the orings, replace them all. lightly grease the new ones. they are all the same size, but there is one on each rear strut that is a different size than the rest. they are "under" the solenoid when you unbolt the solenoid from the rear strut. other than those two, the rest are all the same. so size match the ones on the front solenoids (easiest to get to) and buy a couple dozen or so. 1/4" OD 1/8" ID i think.

anyway to post those files here or email them? i can't sign in.... thanks for the pointers!

so the directions that come with it are adequate for someone that's never done it before? just needs to be mounted and run power to the unit right?

want to install some remote door locks in my cars and my parents. i understand i need to install the actuator only on the drivers side and then obviously it will activate the switch to unlock the others. how hard is this actuator to install, anyone do it, pictures? i can't picture what it would be attached to. drilling, all bolt on if i use the universal units?

or just don't worry about it? broken boot aint no thing. 50,000+ miles on front broken boots and more on the rears.....never had one break yet. that whole smoke thing is annoying, but once it's all thrown out it stops! might start clicking, just turn the radio up.

Yes, i've done it. it's very easy. i did it a year ago or more, so my memory of the exact details is limited. never use the FWD fuse, so i don't know what that does when i insert a fuse. as i said earlier this mod is awesome, one of the best and easiest things you can do to an auto soob. the thing is awesome in snow, mud, offroad.

i'd swap in a used trans in good working order. shops will install for $150 -$300. i have a good used trans i'd probably sell, but wrong side of the country.

SVX started in 1992. don't know much about the H6 engine except to say that i wouldn't buy a motor that new. i personally like the idea of waiting 5 years to let any issues surface (ie 2.5 head gaskets, dodge neon head gaskets, et al....). i was in florida this weekend and someone was asking me about a new H6 problem they were having that the dealer was not yet able to track down. it's throwing a code of some sort i believe. i just emailed my friend to see if he can get me more details.

there you go guys. nice work nipper! on a side note....i have resisted mentioning this due to fear needlessly lengthening this thread, but i've been told the older 4EAT's at least can only offer a 60/40 power split, but the drivetrain is "locked" front to back. so you'll still experience the "hopping" and "bucking" of a locked drivetrain/transmission but the technical power split is 60/40 front to back maximum for the 4EAT. don't think it really matters, but i see lots of people mentioning 50/50...which i usually do as well for ease of discussion.

having this system worked on anywhere would be costly. parts are hard to find and expensive and few people know anything about them. you will be hard pressed to find anyone knowledgeable to diagnose this system. i doubt even dealer mechanics would know anything and they're going to charge mad loot to diagnose and replace with new (parts are 200 dollars and up.....struts are 400 each from the dealer). add labor and you can easily get to $1,000 in no time. if you're not working on it yourself and don't want to spend many hundreds of dollars and numberous visits you're best bet is to look towards converting. or use the board to diagnose as best as you can and buy used parts and have them swapped in. for instance buy a used computer and swap it in, buy a used compressor and swap it in. if you're going to have it worked on, have all the o-rings replaced that are accessible - they are on the compressor and air tank under the fender and solenoids/struts elsewhere. i've kept mine, but it's been interesting at times....

wrong again, it will work on the newer cars. all you need is the pin-out number/wire color for your vehicle.

that's what i did. mine does no "freaking out", works fine. the only thing that happens out of the ordinary is this....if you leave it "on", in other word the wires disconnected when you start the car (where normally that wire is single strung to the solenoid), the POWER light will flash on the dash. the POWER light flashing indicates the TCU sees a problem. the problem is only in the placement of the switch though - one position completes the circuit and there is no problem, the other position disconnects the circuit which isn't the normal condition of the circuitry so the TCU sees that and flashes the POWER light on the dash. basically the TCU wasn't designed with a switch in mind, so if you have the switch breaking the circuit when you turn the car on it will "think" there's a problem when there is not. that's about right, easy job. basically most of the time is determining where/how you want to mount the switch, the wiring is easy. cut one wire and install a switch and you're done. i used a 2 pole switch with a light so i can tell when it's "locked".

wrong, i've done it and explained it already at the very beginning of this post.

subaru auto trans do fine. install an aftermarket transmission cooler, put new fluid in it and run matching sets of tires and it should be fine. i needed a new auto trans at 160,000, but i abused that one bad. drove with mismatched tires, never changed the fluid, worked that thing over off-road...didn't know much about transmissions back then. installed a used trans with unknown mileage and it's still in that car at 220,000 miles....installed new fluid, new filter and an aftermarket cooler and it works great.

there's a good thread about 5 lug swap parts and details. not sure where exactly, but it's not hard to find. what do you want out of this car? if you want more power an EA82T would be much easier. it would nearly be a drop in, require very little work and can get about the same amount of power as you can out of an XT6 (without all the weight, tight spaces and poor handling due to size). the EA82T is the best low cost option. sell your XT6 parts car and use the $ to buy or build and EA82T. if you really want to transplant, go with the EJ22 or newer motors. if you want power, go with a turbo. the ER27 is not a powerhouse by any means. it's a great motor, i dig the XT6, i've owned about 15 of them. but it's not a good candidate for power. the newer motors are easier to work on and find parts for. the XT6 isn't that bad, but will requrie a learning curve and more time/energy for finding and rebuilding parts. you can find EA82T blocks and parts easily and inexpensively. read some dyno charts for EA82T's, you'll see some great numbers posted by board members. the XT6 ER27 would require all the wiring harness and computer - it is not the same as the EA82. the wiring would be a tedious job not worthy of my time in my oppinion...so i'd go with an EJ22T or something like that if i were putting that kind of time into it.

is a cam follower not seated right? pull a valve cover off and have a look. look at all the cam followers, cam lobes and rotate the engine by hand to make sure everything appears to be workign properly. a compression test on that side would be interesting at this point. are you familiar with the HLA's ticking? is it similar to that? on rebuilds and head jobs the HLA's can be problematic to get back to working order.

definitely replace the water pump if it hasn't been done recently. at 130,000 miles you might not need another timing belt until 200,000. i'd rather not gamble on a water pump lasting to 200,000. i know they can, but on these motors i wouldn't risk it.