idosubaru

Wires were: Red/Green Stripe, Red/Bluie Stripe, Red/White Stripe i've installed 2 used units and one new unit...all with the same results. off to check the rear tail light....

i'm at work, i'll go check in a little bit. if the tail light is dim then that's the same issue you had? thanks a ton! TWO WEEKS, wow that sucks, i better check how long i got on my inspection ticket. thanks again.

what do you mean by bad wire? the actual wire is broke, frayed, insulation gone or bad connection where it's bolted to the car? i'll check them out. i'll check the grounding points tomorrow. what you're saying sounds pertinent. thanks!!!

great idea hotdog, i never though of that. are the buttons on the shift lever?

if anyone thinks they can make sense of this.....here's the measurements i took: all measurements were taken with the harness that i was measuring being disconnected. i was too dumb to try to measure it while connected! I'm calling the low beams and high beams A & B because i can't tell which is which since the inside indicator doesn't work. setting A is either low or high and B is the other. A is the same setting for the P/S and D/S measurements. P/S (p/s disconnected for all of the following) Lights OFF , D/S disconnected..................12.19 / 12.20 / 12.20 Lights OFF , D/S connected......................11.84 / 0 / 11.84 Lights ON (setting A), D/S connected..........1.72 / 11.48 / 1.69 Lights ON (setting A), D/S disconnected Lights ON (setting , D/S connected.........11.58 / 1.32 / 11.58 Lights ON (setting , D/S disconnected D/S (d/s disconnected for all of the following) Lights OFF , P/S disconnected.....................12.19 / 12.20 / 12.20 Lights OFF , P/S connected........................11.84 / 0 / 12.21 Lights ON (setting A), P/S connected............0.13 / 0.12 / 11.97 Lights ON (setting A), P/S disconnected......11.70 / 0.06 / 11.97 Lights ON (setting , P/S connected............0.12 / 0.12 / 11.96 Lights ON (setting , P/S disconnected .......0.29 / 0 / 12.00

I got an inspection ticket for this, so it's time to get it done right. I'm trying to find out why my P/S headlight is very dim, almost out. I was reading voltages and got a zillion numbers but don't know what they mean and the wiring diagram is confusing me, i'm not getting anywhere. One interesting note: when i unplug the D/S light the P/S light goes out. If i unplug the P/S light though the D/S light stays on? what does that mean? anyone know how to test the 3 terminals and what i'm looking for? lights on, lights off, harness plugged in, not plugged in, one side plugged in, one side not...lots of options.

i'm looking at a '97 2.2 (i also have a 98 2.2) swap into a 1996 DOHC 2.5. i'm aware of the updated head gasket, this project does not warrant a head gasket replacement. sensors will swap according to those that have done it......i'll install the single port 2.2 header and then the charcoal canisters/ CEL are the only issues to look into from what im' seeing of others that have done it. my questions still stand....

if EA82T's are that available, tear it up. i never see any here. tons of 90's subarus, but no 80's at all.

$35 rear hubs: asheville, NC 1 828 667 2239 Forest-City, NC 1 800 333 7202 Iron Station, NC 1 866 732 6174 call to verify it will work...ABS or not, ask for the entire assembly, and ask them to ship if it's not close.

sounds weird, got a picture? i would guess the axle is fine, the cv joint might be stressed depending where the deformation is occurring, but i don't think that's an issue. source an entire used rear hub assembly and swap it out, along with a new rear strut if that's jacked up. i'd bet a rear hub assembly could be had for $100 at the most. the yards around here you can go pull that yourself for $35. plus installation if yo'ure not doing it yourself. figure another $100-$200 for that. roughly of course....

nothing was touched...spark plug wires or anything? wires on the right cylinders? wires seated tight? would probably get a CEL if that was the problem though. O2 sensors plugged in?

buy an EA81 from RAM Performance. or EA82T swap, they are easy enough to find.

what could you do to get rid of that code and the CE light? can a single port 2.2 Liter exhaust manifold be used in place of the DOHC dual port exhaust? and then everything is a straight swap?

the bracket/bolting on part is definitely cake. start thinking how we'll attach it to the intercooler, that's the only part a little up in the air, but it can't be that hard. i can also be home from work around 3pm in the afternoons some days, so i could meet you through the week that way too. right now i think Sunday afternoon is mostly open after 1ish.

excellent, nice job hotdog. 'bout time someone else just went in there and did it. it is aweomse isn't it? i said in my first post to this thread that it's one of the best modifications you can do to an AWD Auto subaru. it rocks indeed. and it's super easy. i thought people would jump all over this.

good deal, that's great news. doubt the heads will have issue, should be fine. is it time to think about new timing belt, pulleys and water pump while it's all apart? better to have this all done and good to go for another couple years then go through another major repair soon. i just looked back, 72,000 miles. i'd probably think about having the belts, pulleys and water pump replaced and oil pump resealed while it's all apart...if they'll do it for reasonable charge anyway. i'd ask. you're looking at a timing belt job in 25,000 miles...that might only be a year away or less for some. dealer quoted my cousin $699 to replace her timing belt this summer on a 2000 2.5 liter. i did it for cost of parts. otherwise this major expense will be upon you soon. the overheating (if extensive) and taking apart won't help the life of the belt anyway.

fix and sell is the way to go. i'd get an estimate on the body work and go from there, if you can't do it yourself it'll likely be too expensive to have someone do it without taking a loss. pic's of the bad/rusted spots would help those with body experience give you some advice. the thing looks great.

above the pedal assembly is a white connector on an XT6 at least...not sure your configuration exactly. this connector gets corroded and shorts out causing loss of rear tail lights and eventually head lights too. look for a white connector (though that's XT6 info, so yours could be different), so also look for any connector that looks damaged. disconnect and reconnect. a bad one will be brittle and look burned with wire damage. a white connector can be easily browned by a short. seen this happen to three of my soobs (XT6's), it seems most likely in manual trans as snow sticks to your feet and can brush off awfully close to that connector and short it out. looks like you live near snow and it's winter, so if you have a manual trans i wouldn't be surprised if you have a connector up there that is bad.

i have weekends off starting next week, so if you want to come down one day on a weekend we can put something together no problem. can't imagine it would take very long....except the drive is annoying of course.

at 150,000 miles it could still be the original fluid or very old. i'd start with just a basic high quality ATF flush first. new fluid could help very much. have you had the car long enough to be sure it doesn't leak at all? install a trans cooler while you're at. if you use the expensive stuff, install new hoses and clamps. i've never used Redline so i'm not positive, but i would be very surprised if you put that in the rear diff. gear oil and transmission fluid are very different. use gear oil in the rear and front diff.

this is the start of a classic headgasket thread. they are notorious for being undetectable in terms of the typical head gasket tests. was helping a local mechanic track down an overheating issue on one of these motors since im familiar with subarus. same thing...overheated but no leaks, passed the coolant tester he had, thermostat replaced twice and tested in a pan and reinstalled. i told him the same thing- headgasket. you should snoop around a littler, sounds like you already have. but you should replace the thermostat to be sure. and are you loosing any coolant? if you're loosing coolant and you don't see leaking and your passengers side floorboard aint wet, then it looks like headgasket to me.

i can't remember the exact details, but when i did my first 2.2 i used the search function and found everything i needed. links to endwrench articles, pictures and details straight from subaru. was easy enough.

torque bind - is the transmission lugging when it makes this noise? the car feels a little weighted down sort of when it's making the nosie? ice/snow isn't getting packed under the wheel wells is it? i'd guess CV joint if it's not torque bind.

im a clutch idiot because i like driving automatics, but i asked about adjusting the clutch cable to alleviate some other symptom on an older subaru and was told that is a bad fix as it will cause other problems. but if you're clutch is about to go maybe it doesn't really matter anyway.

i like what boosted just said, keep it simple. verify spark at each cylinder. gotta know you got good spark at each cylinder before getting complicated. in my experience, the water temperature sensor is a notorious cause of problems. i've had it cause a no start with no CE light once before as well. the sensor will be fine, the contacts will be horribly degraded. i posted a thread about how to permanently fix it if your connector/contacts are corroded. pull the harness/connector off of it and make sure the metal is good and clean.