idosubaru

i was just doing a search this morning and ran across two other threads from the past that don't mention any issue with the starter. never saw anyone have a starter issue, here are some examples, this is copied and pasted from my notes i'm keeping from this website: ________________________________________________________ Just finished putting a 95 Impreza 2.2 into a 98 Outback. Both were autos. All worked fine, but the flex plates are different size, by about 1/2" dia. (don't ask me how I fournd this out). You will need to keep flex plate from your Outback and bolt it up to the impreza engine. The Air conditioning mount bracket has smaller mount bolts as well. Keep all the brackets from your Outback. __________________________________________________________ well after gettin my 95' 2.2L engine outa the impreza donor car.. i set in to putting it in today.. started at 9:30 finish and drove the OBW for the first tim in a couple months at 4:30.. woulda took less time but i had to take it back out a 2nd time cause the wrx torque converter and flex plate would not work.. had to put my 2.5L flex plate and converter on..

good point. they did have massive flooding so it was flowing water and probably very forceful, i've been in and on fast rivers before and they are quite scarry and powerful. maybe he misinterpreted the circumstances - blaming the car and really it was the fault of the water pressure against it.

congrats on the SVX, they are sweet machines. timing belt - depends, have you ever done one before? it's not an easy job for someone that's only ever changed oil. but with any experience it's not that bad. great cars, two notable issues with them that can be avoided with proper maintenance: you would be most wise to immediately, and i mean find out when the store opens and be waiting at the door, install an aftermarket transmission cooler. the SVX is notorious for eating transmissions. an aftermarket ATF cooler and fluid change would be most wise. they only run $30 and are easy to install, best $30 you'll spend on the car. and check into tightening your lug nuts i believe. another oddity is that the wheel bearings fail at an alarming rate, my memory is vague but i *think* lug nuts not being tightened properly will adversly affect the wheel bearings. if that's the case be sure the wheel bearings are always tightened to the right specifications (most shops and people just wing them on 'cause it doesn't matter so long as they are tight enough not to come off). you'll want them at the right torque value if i'm right...again i'm not positive of the cause but the SVX definitely can eat wheel bearings. i know someone that replaced bad ones and the new ones quickly failed..... he learned the hard way. and don't crack your windshield, dealer only and $700 for a new one.

that's not off topic at all keith. he needs to hear from people that know what they're talking about to avoid the run around.

panic. he's a newscaster? non-technical, plays on emotions no offense, but i see that type of person performing less than ideal in a situation like that. over-generalization yes, but i highly doubt he's the most technically sound individual around. who would you rather rely on to get you out of a compromised and deadly vehicle....an airline mechanic or paris hilton? i bet he leans towards the paris hilton side of dealing with life and death situations.

i doubt they were wrong either about the codes and fans, they were probably right. they were'nt "wrong" about the hairline crack either, they just completely lied or creatively worded it....let me explain so you're educated about your circumstances: about the hairline crack, anyone on this group that has replaced a dozen or more headgaskets themself will tell you that is highly unlikely. i was a little harsh in the last post, but that marketing drives me crazy. they're using a very liberal definition of "engine" to scare this person into a very expensive and unnecessary repair. can you tell dealerships and shops have screwed over my friends and family numerous times in the past? i have not. you may have a serious internal leak and the engine (the long block) is hosed. but the engine (short block) is likely fine. if by "hair line crack in the engine" they mean a "hair line crack in the headgasket", they are probably correct but using a liberal definition to scare you into a very large (and i repeat unnecessary) repair. if by "hair line crack in the engine" they literally mean a "hairline crack in the block casting" they are probably wrong or banking on the %1 chance of that happening (i have yet to ever see it on the any subaru over-heat that i've seen). so i appologize in saying they are straight liars, but they are being very creative in their use of the english language.....at their customers expense. i like being straight forward. if you want to help with their next yatcht payment, then by all means have them replace the motor as it will certainly solve your issues. if you want your car reliably and cost-effectively repaired without supporting those bafoons, then listen to this group. pardon my distrust of dealers or my disapproval of liars.

you likely do NOT need a new motor...hold tight while i babble on..... here's what i would check immediately, or someone here can answer. unplug the connector yourself (it's really easy to get to, takes about 42 seconds). look at the fans and look at the one plug on the fan. unplug it and see if your CE light comes on with the car running. do this as a test to make sure that a disconnected fan will throw a code and CE light. on all older subaru's the CE light will not come on with the fans unplugged, maybe the newer ones are different, but i would check to be sure myself or ask someone on here, they probably know. while you're doing this you can check what nipper said and see if the clips are still on the connector. i would also fill it up with pure antifreeze and drive it around a bit - don't let it overheat, but get it up to normal temperature and look for signs of antifreeze leaking under the car, in the engine bay or out the exhaust pipe and let us know what you find. did the car overheat at all before the CE light came on the first time? what came first the CE light or the overheating or did you never see the temp gauge before the CE light came on? subaru is not liable. even if they diagnosed it *wrong*, there is no way to prove anything, so i'd abandon trying to prove them wrong. most likely the body shop or broken tab like nipper said. in the winter it won't overheat unless the car sits at idle (no air flowing over the radiator and no fans to pull air through) or you load it up a hill or towing, etc like nipper said. did you ever idle for an extended period before the CE light and overheating episodes. if you let the car idle before (say 10 minutes or so) and it never overheated then the connector was plugged in at one time...or better yet do you ever remember hearing the fans run, they are audible when they kick on if you have the windows down or are outside of the car. ask anyone who rides with you frequently if they recall, they'd be likely to hear it as yo'ure in it while it's on most of the time. this stealership is also completely and utterly full of crap if they told you a hairline crack in the motor, i would walk away and deal with someone else if that's really what they said. there is no way they could even prove a hairline crack without disassembling the motor and checking the failure point. if you're misquoting their diagnosis i take back my harsh statements, otherwise leave now. overheating *normally* blows a head gasket, that's a very common occurence. the XT6 i just got out of a few minutes ago had blown headgaskets. i knew the previous owner, his sister drove the car while it was overheating and blew the headgaskets. i got the car from him, replaced the head gaskets and the motor runs great, had it for about 25,000 miles and 3 years now. my friends headgasket blew on his neon - replaced gasket and it ran great. my parents van overheated and blew a head gasket...same deal, another guys subaru XT overheated and blew a head gasket and i replaced it for him, ran great. i think you see a pattern, i have yet to see an overheat do anything but require a new headgasket. i just ordered 2 today for an XT Turbo that i overheated and had blown head gaskets - $44 for the set, i'll install them this week and the car will run just fine. you most likley just need new head gaskets. head gasket jobs are posted about all the time on this site and they run about $1,000 - $1,200 at a dealer. did they do a compression test? a leak down test? did they give you any details or just look at it and say "hairline crack", because that's impossible to diagnose in practice. i'd replace the head gaskets (have someone like me who won't BS you about your motor, not that dealer). if you do'nt like that idea, have someone do a compression test and/or leak down test for you and give me the numbers and i'll tell you what i think.

if crankcase ventilation was this bad of an issue, i would expect your oil stick would likely be popping out an inch so. does it ever do that? if that much oil is getting into a cylinder i would pull the plugs and see which one/ones are getting terribly fouled. that will tell you if it's related to one head or one cylinder or if it's not cylinder related at all.

the RPM drop would only occur with an automatic, not a manual. could it be that while rated at a higher hp/tq, the 2.5 had lost some efficiency over the years due to age, overheating, bad headgasket. i assume you replaced it because the head gasket was bad, so it probably hasn't been running at top efficiency for some time. might be why a fresh 2.2 feels nice and has lower RPM.

i've pulled and played with plenty of NA, but this will be my first time touching a turbo so i wasn't sure what "high temp" hose was. thanks for the info.

Toney is occassionally on the board offering Subaru Parts at excellent prices. email: subaruparts@johnphils.com I have bought parts from them (be sure to talk to Toney and tell them you're from the usmb), you'll get good deals and no B.S. or go to www.1stsubaruparts.com excellent prices as well. i like ordering on line, it's cheaper, or the same price if you have one of those rare relationships/dealers, and no down time running to the store is another advantage. if you have internet at work, you get paid while you fix your subaru.

i second a broken CV boot, it's not a catastrophic thing so don't panic if you don't know what a CV is and what a broken boot means. i've driven 50,000+ miles with a broken boot, i just ignore the clicking once it gets really bad and the smell (allergies help) and smoke. before i knew anything about cars i used to get a little nervous when the boot broke, being part of the axle i thought it was a very bad thing, now i know better so sleep better knowing that. replace the axle that the boot is on. some places insist you replace both axles, but it's not necessary unless a boot is broken.

cool, i'll replace the turbo lines. standard rubber hose or special high temp stuff?

my XT6 makes rushing water sounds often when i would first start it, but never lost coolant, fresh rebuild, etc. i figured there's a restriction in the heater core line somewhere causing things to act funny. maybe trying to get some more air out would have helped it, i never worried with it though. always did it and never had a problem. i never worked on the heater core, heat worked, no leaks, nothing, just the noise of rushing water behind the dash at start up.

i'm doing my first EA82T head gasket this week. i had no problem flying through an EA82 head gasket a year or so ago after the multiple 6 cylinder ER27's i've done. i look to replace the turbo gaskets. anything additional on the rest of an EA82T head gasket job that would be different than the EA82? i have the 88+ FSM so it doesn't cover turbo models.

tell us what model/year/trans/motor you have. in the end we might be able to start a thread with model/year/trans specific pin-outs for the duty solenoid C. we have two transmissions nailed down, shouldn't be too many 4EAT differences across year. tell us what model/year/trans/motor you have. in the end we might be able to start a thread with model/year/trans specific pin-outs for the duty solenoid C. we have two transmissions nailed down, shouldn't be too many 4EAT differences across year.

i may be doing the same and have looked around and posted here before about this. other era 2.2's can be used, doesn't have to be a 95. if you do, you'll have to swap the exhaust manifold as well. keep the 2.2 manifold with the 2.2 motor if it's not a '95. i have a '97 and '98 2.2 that i may be swapping into a 2.5. they will plug and play as well just like the '95.

well i mentioned that earlier because it's important, check the transmission pan because that is definitely cause for alarm. the transmission pan can definitely cause issue, i don't know the exact nauture of the issues it will cause but the bottom of the oil sump is really close to the bottom of the pan, close that gap and fluid availability is restricted. replace soon. you can probably even just have it removed and bang it back out. they should just charge like an hour of labor to do that, dealer probably won't do it, but anyone else will. don't buy a new pan if you're not sure the trans is good. the dented pan may have even damaged the trans, not enough oil to the internals. but it's all speculation. i'd do it myself, but my recommendation is pay no more than $100 (someone should do it for $50) to remove the pan, bang out the dent and reinstall it. if that fixes all your issues, then source a new or used pan in good condition to replace the old one. finding a perfectly good used pan for a few dollars should be easy enough, trashed auto trans arent' impossible to find. i would start there, everythign is speculation beyond that. mismatched tires will make an auto trans act funny. one time mine started to lock/unlock the transfer clutches one time for no reason and i got new tires and that went away. it may manifest itself in different ways on the newer 4EAT's though, that was on an older model (1989).

if the holes get dirty and corroded the torque won't be accurate. the bolts will all tighten okay, but that's not the best scenario. i doubt this would be an issue on most EJ22's since they really aren't that old yet, but i know the 80's subaru's can have very dirty head bolts and threads. if you can figure out which side is blown you can at least only replace one side since the other side is new. compression test maybe? leak down?

well that sucks. try a compression test. hydrocarbon test. did you clean the bolts threads and bolt holes really well?

the XT Turbo FT4WD 5 speed is 3.7 ratio if you want even lower. the axle shafts will likely be an issue. can't imagine the XT axles will match your hubs or the '98 axles will match the trans and rear diff. shops can make a set of correct axles for you though. you'll need the solenoid(s) for the diff lock button to work. although you could probably fab some other kind of actuator to work. never heard of that being done before though. best bet would be to pick up a junked car with a good trans that you want, XT 5 speed like you said.

no. manuals and auto's are completely different. the 5 speed doesn't have a TCU, clutch pack or Duty Solenoid C...like i said, completely different animals. yours doesn't have a locking center diff? if not, install a 5 speed with a diff lock or push button 4WD option to lock your center diff.

not "with" the new gaskets. but in a way, yes. just above and below (at noon and 6 o'clock) on the block you should put a dab of sealant. you don't need any sealant to touch the gaskets, though i've seen some done like that when i've taken them apart before. if you look closely you'll see where the two halves of the blocks come together in a hatched kind of pattern...zigzag you might say. that's why it's at noon and 6 oclock, it's where the block halves meet. this being not necessarily perfectly flush, it's a good idea (and shown in the FSM) to put a dab of anaerobic sealant in this area. you'll want the sealant to be between the block and oil pump housing, but not in/on the gasket. one side is really tight and you almost have to get some sealant in the groove for the mickey mouse gasket.

if i take an EA82 crank to a machine shop can they measure/test it for me to see if it's in specifications? seems like too many damn lobes and weird shapes to measure accurately but those machinists do crazy things. what year were they offered up to. i've seen some EA82's listed as 1993, they made them that long?

can you post pictures? as many as possible? i wouldn't bend without knowing exactly what is damaged. some parts should be replaced, not bent back. bending weakens the metal, i wouldn't do that without knowing exactly what was going on. EDIT - i see you dont have a digital camera. i'd remove the wheel and use a freaking T square or whatever to see if the hub (the studs) are bent (they have to be since they are connected to the wheel). after that....something has to give in the suspension somewhere for this to happen. jack the car up, remove both rear wheels and walk back and forth between each side like 26 times and see what doesn't measure up...compare good side to bad side. use a ruler if you have to start measuring/comparing distances. find out what is not out of place and what is out of place and that will narrow down the failure point.