idosubaru

i second a broken CV boot, it's not a catastrophic thing so don't panic if you don't know what a CV is and what a broken boot means. i've driven 50,000+ miles with a broken boot, i just ignore the clicking once it gets really bad and the smell (allergies help) and smoke. before i knew anything about cars i used to get a little nervous when the boot broke, being part of the axle i thought it was a very bad thing, now i know better so sleep better knowing that. replace the axle that the boot is on. some places insist you replace both axles, but it's not necessary unless a boot is broken.

cool, i'll replace the turbo lines. standard rubber hose or special high temp stuff?

my XT6 makes rushing water sounds often when i would first start it, but never lost coolant, fresh rebuild, etc. i figured there's a restriction in the heater core line somewhere causing things to act funny. maybe trying to get some more air out would have helped it, i never worried with it though. always did it and never had a problem. i never worked on the heater core, heat worked, no leaks, nothing, just the noise of rushing water behind the dash at start up.

i'm doing my first EA82T head gasket this week. i had no problem flying through an EA82 head gasket a year or so ago after the multiple 6 cylinder ER27's i've done. i look to replace the turbo gaskets. anything additional on the rest of an EA82T head gasket job that would be different than the EA82? i have the 88+ FSM so it doesn't cover turbo models.

tell us what model/year/trans/motor you have. in the end we might be able to start a thread with model/year/trans specific pin-outs for the duty solenoid C. we have two transmissions nailed down, shouldn't be too many 4EAT differences across year. tell us what model/year/trans/motor you have. in the end we might be able to start a thread with model/year/trans specific pin-outs for the duty solenoid C. we have two transmissions nailed down, shouldn't be too many 4EAT differences across year.

i may be doing the same and have looked around and posted here before about this. other era 2.2's can be used, doesn't have to be a 95. if you do, you'll have to swap the exhaust manifold as well. keep the 2.2 manifold with the 2.2 motor if it's not a '95. i have a '97 and '98 2.2 that i may be swapping into a 2.5. they will plug and play as well just like the '95.

well i mentioned that earlier because it's important, check the transmission pan because that is definitely cause for alarm. the transmission pan can definitely cause issue, i don't know the exact nauture of the issues it will cause but the bottom of the oil sump is really close to the bottom of the pan, close that gap and fluid availability is restricted. replace soon. you can probably even just have it removed and bang it back out. they should just charge like an hour of labor to do that, dealer probably won't do it, but anyone else will. don't buy a new pan if you're not sure the trans is good. the dented pan may have even damaged the trans, not enough oil to the internals. but it's all speculation. i'd do it myself, but my recommendation is pay no more than $100 (someone should do it for $50) to remove the pan, bang out the dent and reinstall it. if that fixes all your issues, then source a new or used pan in good condition to replace the old one. finding a perfectly good used pan for a few dollars should be easy enough, trashed auto trans arent' impossible to find. i would start there, everythign is speculation beyond that. mismatched tires will make an auto trans act funny. one time mine started to lock/unlock the transfer clutches one time for no reason and i got new tires and that went away. it may manifest itself in different ways on the newer 4EAT's though, that was on an older model (1989).

if the holes get dirty and corroded the torque won't be accurate. the bolts will all tighten okay, but that's not the best scenario. i doubt this would be an issue on most EJ22's since they really aren't that old yet, but i know the 80's subaru's can have very dirty head bolts and threads. if you can figure out which side is blown you can at least only replace one side since the other side is new. compression test maybe? leak down?

well that sucks. try a compression test. hydrocarbon test. did you clean the bolts threads and bolt holes really well?

the XT Turbo FT4WD 5 speed is 3.7 ratio if you want even lower. the axle shafts will likely be an issue. can't imagine the XT axles will match your hubs or the '98 axles will match the trans and rear diff. shops can make a set of correct axles for you though. you'll need the solenoid(s) for the diff lock button to work. although you could probably fab some other kind of actuator to work. never heard of that being done before though. best bet would be to pick up a junked car with a good trans that you want, XT 5 speed like you said.

no. manuals and auto's are completely different. the 5 speed doesn't have a TCU, clutch pack or Duty Solenoid C...like i said, completely different animals. yours doesn't have a locking center diff? if not, install a 5 speed with a diff lock or push button 4WD option to lock your center diff.

not "with" the new gaskets. but in a way, yes. just above and below (at noon and 6 o'clock) on the block you should put a dab of sealant. you don't need any sealant to touch the gaskets, though i've seen some done like that when i've taken them apart before. if you look closely you'll see where the two halves of the blocks come together in a hatched kind of pattern...zigzag you might say. that's why it's at noon and 6 oclock, it's where the block halves meet. this being not necessarily perfectly flush, it's a good idea (and shown in the FSM) to put a dab of anaerobic sealant in this area. you'll want the sealant to be between the block and oil pump housing, but not in/on the gasket. one side is really tight and you almost have to get some sealant in the groove for the mickey mouse gasket.

if i take an EA82 crank to a machine shop can they measure/test it for me to see if it's in specifications? seems like too many damn lobes and weird shapes to measure accurately but those machinists do crazy things. what year were they offered up to. i've seen some EA82's listed as 1993, they made them that long?

can you post pictures? as many as possible? i wouldn't bend without knowing exactly what is damaged. some parts should be replaced, not bent back. bending weakens the metal, i wouldn't do that without knowing exactly what was going on. EDIT - i see you dont have a digital camera. i'd remove the wheel and use a freaking T square or whatever to see if the hub (the studs) are bent (they have to be since they are connected to the wheel). after that....something has to give in the suspension somewhere for this to happen. jack the car up, remove both rear wheels and walk back and forth between each side like 26 times and see what doesn't measure up...compare good side to bad side. use a ruler if you have to start measuring/comparing distances. find out what is not out of place and what is out of place and that will narrow down the failure point.

check easy stuff - make sure trans harnesses are all plugged in tight and good. sometimes the pins won't seat properly and the plugs can be difficult to plug in all the way on those larger harnesses. is the trans definitely for your model vehicle? any chance it's a different year/model and isn't directly compatible (might need some tweaking or different sensor??)? the TCU has a "limp home mode" or something if it's not working right and i believe that is 3rd gear on most 4EAT's. did you pull the motor too or just the transmission when you installed the new one? your tires need to match for AWD trans. did you properly seat the torque converter? it slides in nice and easy...but it stops and is very difficult to get to seat in the last 1/4". a terrible design for the do-it-yourself crowd because they often break if you're not familiar with that last bit of seating of the torque converter. bolt it up and tigthen the bolts on the bellhousing and you'll force that last 1/4" or so and break the oil pump. doubt the car would run at all, but maybe it's possible it shoved into the oil pump enough to run but not perform well. i would check your line pressure out of your transmission lines if you can. i have pulled them before to make sure there's a constant flow of fluid with no bubbles/gurgling. the transmission pan isn't dented is it? the sump (bottom of the filter) can sit quite low in some 4EAT's and any dent will restrict flow. and what he said on pulling the transmission codes. it's a convoluted process but others have done it and the process should be on here somewhere. if the POWER light flashes on start up that means the computer has trouble codes awaiting.

4x4 moose, you don't need a newer soob, it works on any AWD automatic with a Duty solenoid C, which is all automatic soobs that i'm aware of. probably not the 3AT but who wants to mod that..that might even be FWD only, i don't know much but that's not a common trans anyway. doesn't happen often but XT6.net was ahead of usmb on this one, we've had this mod for awhile. glad to see the EJ nailed down, looking forward to it on my wife's OBS. though i'm scared she doesn't know about cars. john mudrat may have done it but he didn't share or offer advice like Andyjo did! go jo go jo!

that's normal...of course i can't see how much play you're talking about and i've never measured mine though. i unexpectedly ran into that before as well. first couple times was off a perfectly good running engine and i've since assumed it is normal....within some tolerance of course. i've always seen and never had issue.

check the battery again and make sure the terminal connections are good and tight.

i say take off and redo until it's right. i've only done the 2.2 liter though. non-interference engine, so no worries about damage. (97 and up are interference).

at 186,282 mph i don't know if those electrons are being slowed enough to be significant over such a short distance! 100k is good preventative maintenance. i've replaced very old O2 sensors on older soobs with tons of miles and never had a noticeable increase in gas mileage. so i wouldn't replace it unless you have an issue like bad gas mileage. wires can vary from manufacturer to manufacturer and model to model. subaru OEM wires seem very resilient to age and mileage in my experience so i don't see why they won't last until 100k as well. i changed mine at 60,000 on my OBS because i was installing magnecor wires anyway which never need replaced.

head gaskets. you didn't say but you obviously have the 2.5 liter motor since they do this. your thread is like many others posted here. it's a big job, if you're not comfortable around timing belts and disassmebling the motor then it's likely not for you. definitely need a garage/heated area to tackle this yourself as it will take awhile. expect the car to be down more than a day.

i call everyone that, even my wife and mom...."dude" gets old. jabs and insults? no way, i'm stoked he got it! look forward to hearing some post-snow commentary HOTDOG!!!

i don't know what stage mine is in my XT6, but it is an aggressive grind that was not recommended for just street use. idled poorly and vaccuum loss affected braking significantly. i'm sure there's ways to alleviate that, i just don't know what they are! i'm probably replacing them with a not so aggressive set. they did pull well on the top end...and i mean way up high, but never dyno'ed the things. low end sucked pretty good, that's the thing i liked the least. but this is an NA XT6 so probably doesn't much matter to you. motor (i put in earlier this year) locked up after hitting some firewood on the freeway so i'm not driving it at the moment. got the heads back from the machine shop last week for another motor to go in it.

the ignition switch must be drilled out. the bolt holding it on has a head that shears off when they install it, so it's just flat. it's been awhile so i'll wait to fill in my vague memories in hopes of someone posting something useful! on the XT6 there's a tiny tiny screw that falls out preventing the car from starting. maybe yours is loose? never heard of it causing electrical issues though.

i'm swapping the entire assembly so that should all go smoothly. my only questions are about the charcoal canister, CEL light (that Shawn mentioned earlier) and swapping the EJ22 single port header in place of the DOHC dual port header.