idosubaru

correct.

i second the motion for a picture. we may be more help if you can post a picture. i've dealt with a number of timing related bolt issues as i'm sure others on the board have. each case can be slightly different...

i can't stress enough that i would not use an easy out here....someone in another thread (the one about the ball joint i think)...just broke one. they break all the time and don't work for crap when i've used them. a bolt that an easy out works on will come out via other methods...like subylvr just mentioned. you do not want an easy out to shear off in your engine. they do all the time, i can take a picture of one that's been hanging for 2 years from my fuel pump bracket under my car that i can't get out after it sheared off in the rusted bolt i was trying to remove. everyone that i've bought has broken...like 6 and finally decided never to use one again, though i have one "just in case" and hope i never use it. i have a really cheap drill with little power and the clutches in it slip too so it's not like i'm overpowering them with the drill that's for sure. i think he said it didn't break flush with the block...i assume he means the only part left is inside the block? i would try loads of penetrating oil (liquid wrench or PB blaster, don't bother using WD40 in place of these). if you have any access to it at all, try to cut a slot in the end to use a flat bladed screwdriver to back it out. if that doesn't work i'd try a left handed drill bit to back it out with the assumption that i might have to helicoil it. in which case you'd need a right angle drill to drill it out, tap and insert the helicoils. i have helicoiled timing belt bolts before. it's annoying, but possible. i rented a right angle drill the one time i had to do it in the car. i've heard and know of instances where people have JB welded or locktighted bolts in place, so i'd be suspicious of that if it's really hard to get out. if it's a bolt that screws into the head another horrible option i hate to mention is replacing that head. but might be easier than taking it to a shop if you can't get it out.

as long as you didn't crank anything down or force anything you should be fine. last 1/4" of the TC seating is tricky and will break the oil pump inside the trans if not done correctly.

wouldn't be terribly difficult to figure something out on your own... takes someone diving into it. if i ever get the time i'll do it, but won't be soon as i have too many project and mine if off the road at the moment anyway....

i have a 97 and 98 OBS (Outback Sport) and really dig the car. picked it up for my wife (i drive all older subaru's) and love it. they both have the 2.2 liter motor, so it's available at least up until 98 i suppose. it's not the fastest thing on the block, but a great car. definitely get AWD. in general manual trans vehicles are capable of more miles and fewer problems. but you can also go 200,000 + on an auto and never need to touch it...a manual will likely need a clutch unless you're very good to it. but that's not a big deal, not something that will leave you stranded, just maintenance if you wear it out. the auto trans are quite reliable, not really a bad point for the newer subaru's. be careful with towing and tire size to protect the trans. install a transmission cooler if you get an automatic, that's always good insurance.

someone posted earlier this week that it was 2001 that they started using the new and improved gaskets. but this being hearsay, i'd hold off for verification. the 2.2's are bullet proof any years, only the 2.5 has issues.

found some stuff on the internet regarding what you're talking about, changing the speedo gears and it appears doable with minor tools and the trans in the car for some vehicles. some manufacturers even supply the replacement gears and have part numbers and all associated with different setups. but i did find this as well, which is kind of what i'd like, though i don't know how legit this is. but something easily adjustable would be nice: http://www.dragonaero.com/SpeedChan...hanicalPage.htm EDIT - AH!!!!! you're right $130-$150. wow. guess i'll keep calculating. you're probably right...way expensive. but i think for what you want, just swap in the right size gear. saw some calculating stuff on the internet. wonder if any other makes would swap those little nylon gears to get the ratio you want..unless you know for sure which one you need and can get it from subaru?

wrong thread....

good idea, for a turbo the OEM is proven and reliable. i have a carbed block with turbo heads on it....what's the advantage of that anyway? i doubt i'll even use it, i want higher compression.

same here...i'll be going with larger tires and would like to compensate. i've read before about "boxes" that can adjust the ratio somehow. so you plug your speedo cable (that would normally come from the trans and go to the speedo) into this box....then it has an output (the ratior you want) and a cable from the output of the box to the actual speedometer in the instrument cluster. seems the lifted rig truck/jeep guys should know how to do this...i can't imagine it's always internal since they adjust tire sizes frequently...gotta be an easier solution.

ive also seen two older subaru's have a very simple problem here. the throttle cables runs through....i don't even know what you call it, but in one case the throttle assembly was basically just sticking "open", like you were pressing the gas, but really you were'nt. so even though it was at idle, stopped, the throttle was sticking open. the other instance was very similar, throttle cable was sticking due to the channel that it fed through being distorted...it sort of wedged in place at a high RPM and stayed there. hit it with your finger and it went back down.

EA82 and EA82T head gaskets are the same. nice to use subaru head gaskets if you can. but aftermarket is probably okay, i know of some Fel-pro and Corteco installs that have held up fine to date on XT6's. that being said, make sure you can determine what brand they are and can find out whether they need retorquing or not. for instance on the XT6 the OEM and Fel-Pro gaskets say no need to retorque but the corteco sets call for a retorque sequence on the head gaskets. it's manufacturer dependent, so i'd want to know that ahead of time. on the EA82 though for some reason they call for a retorque on subaru head gaskets (although they don't for the XT6????), figure that one out?

i feel your pain moosens.....easy outs suck, i never use them anymore. you didn't say it, but i'm guessing that's what snapped? i've had one hanging from a rusted fuel pump bracket bolt for two years, that's right. still hanging there, can't get the @*#$*#$# thing out. those things are so useless. i think maybe they work on the plastic trim piece rivets....on a good day. good luck troubleshooting that.

for less than $4 (1.88 and 1.94 i think) you can also get 2 new timing tensioner springs from www.thepartsbin.com and all the timing related stuff brand new.

ha ha...phil's getting testy....... phil's got lots of projects going on shady, hook him up! i wish he was getting on you about an XT6 LIFT KIT! free bump...

that should be it....i can't remember what all pulley/idlers are on an EA82, but i do recall that cogged sprocket and the two tensioners, can't remember any others off the top of my head. NAPA show the kit online, you could compare?

that does sound really high. you can pick up entire used cars for less than that for parts. are you speaking of the rear quarter panels? they don't necessarily just bolt on. at least one (often both) sides have to be cut,torched, welded. that'll involved smoothing out and painting in that case....check out my post about this issue here: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=47546

like he said...try neutral, drifting a little, reverse, forward. if all else fails i believe there's a lever on the passengers side of the transmission that you can pull manually to get it unlocked. i've had to remove a bracket that the cable runs through just prior to the trans though....it's like two 10mm bolts, the bracket comes off and then you can push/pull the locking lever by hand. this is on XTT FT4WD and XT6 AWD vehicles, and my push button PT4WD transmission looks the same, so i'm assuming it's similar.

go with NGK's if you can. newer soob wires can be a pain to seat properly. be POSITIVE they are seated. i pull them off and reinstall if i'm not positive i hear the "click" of it engaging with the spark plug terminal. good job noticing the arcing, that is not good and should be fixed ASAP. it won't do your wires any good and will eventually (if it hasn't already) compromise the insulation of the wires. i would bet magnecor wires would not arc, www.magnecor.com. awesome product. thing is...you might fix the issue by seating the wires or getting new plugs...but it still could arc if the wires have been compromised somewhere from the arcing.

do not use JB weld. JB weld will not hold it. have it welded and be done with it. price around, you'll eventually find someone that'll do it for not much$. can you weld it from the inside so the outside paint isn't scored? have a welder look at it, see what they say. they might be able to limit the paint damage somehow...i'm not seeing exactly what's going on here in my head.

i'm not familiar with your car, but you'll need to push the brake caliper piston in to make room for the new and thicker pads. this is accomplished with either a C-clamp or a special tool. the special tool is needed if the piston is on a spindle and needs to rotate to retract. it's like a 4 dollar tool and attaches to your ratchet, allows you to ratchet the piston back instead of just pushing it straight back with a c-clamp. if it won't budge...dont' force it with a c-clamp, probably means you need the tool. someone here will know or ask the dealer or the parts store (they might know if you're lucky, or they can pull a new caliper out of the box and have a look and tell you). and when you push the piston back in, be SURE to open the brake fluid reservoir on the master cylinder. when you push the pistons back in, they also push fluid back too and it has to go somewhere. if you don't remove the master cyilnder cap it can ruin the master cyilnder. i have a extra large eyedropper for sucking fluid out of the master cyilnder if it gets too high from pushing the pistons back in..fluid will fill the reservoir. or just soak it up with some towels/rags.

sounds like your rotors need turning/replaced. machine ship will tell you if they are out of spec (if you feel vibrations/wobbling, they may be). or you can just buy new ones to replace. turnings prices have gone up alot around where i live, i buy rotors instead so i can do the job all at once no need to wait around or leave the car down. definitley don't buy the cheapest pads...they will work *okay* on some vehicles and terrible on others, no need to take the chance. buy better grade pads. i'll leave brands for others to comment on. be sure to have some grease available to grease the caliper slides, or at least inspect them to make sure they are not dry. this will cause pads to drag against the rotor and wear quicker and reduce gas mileage. just don't get grease on your pads/rotors. alignment is likely not the problem. alignments are revenue generating services more than anything else, they are rarely needed. 220,000 miles and how many alignments have i gotten? none. i rotate tires frequently and when i see uneven wear i'll get an alignment, there's no need to pointlessly align tires all the time, except to pad the pockets of corp's or ease your mental anguish. turning the rotors is a similar overdone item...i've put 200,000 miles on rotors, i turn them only if they're out of spec or warped (which they haven't been on my 220,000 mile daily driver, all original rotors). i replace my pads early and they don't get gouged or uneven. braking is smooth and tight.

what is a dent puller or what kind should i use is a better question? i tried searching the usmb, ebay and the internet and there are alot of variations and options out there, not sure which one i need. i got enough to go on for now, i'll probably revisit this thread in a few weeks after i swap the good doors, etc.

CCR drops by the boards on occassion and has been very helpful with some questions i've had, though i've never purchased anything from them (emily is the one that seems to answer questions, frequent the boards). she's most helpful and knowledgeable. what kind of mileage do you do in a year? 5 years could be 60,000 miles or it could mean 200,000 miles. if you want 200,000 more miles, then rebuild wouldn't be a bad idea. but the EJ22 can handle that kind of mileage.... if you go used, get an EJ22 (2.2 liter) motor and put in it. they are awesome motors and very reliable. if you go used, don't bother with a 2.5 unless it's a really new one...like 2001 and up i believe they use the newer style headgaskets on. and at that point they'd probably be really expensive to find one that new and you're better off with a rebuild and CCR warranty. i would personally find a used 2.2 liter motor and have a complete tune up done to it...timing belts, water pump, replace all the timing belt pulleys, reseal the oil pump, cam seals and crank seal. i just did all of that to my wifes car and it's only 200 or so in parts. EJ22's can be found relatively inexpensive....i know of handful in the area that i could snag for $200 or less dollars. i'd find the lowest mileage one i could get, give it a tune up like mentioned and drop it in.....an awesome motor for well under $1,000. i just picked up another 98 OBS (2.2 liter) with 180,000 miles on it and the motor ran perfect with no oil usage. (it was always run with synthetics).