idosubaru

can't imagine all 4 wheels should be spinning, you should have at least one open diff on the front or rear, if not both. agreed, stock tires will SUCK in the mud. and they will suck even worse if they are old. at an angle you're hosed, all your weight is up front so if the angle and mud is bad enough even a 4WD truck won't go anywhere because while the rear might be spinning it doesn't have any weight in the rear to get traction. on my older automatic XT6 i have installed a switch to manually control lockup of the 4WD transfer clutches. i flip the switch and it locks the transfer clutch, essentially like locking the differential in a 4wd vehicle. it binds, hops and bucks like a 4WD truck when i lock it. if that's an option on yours, definitely do it...it's called Duty Solenoid C, that's the solenoid that controls the transfer clutches in the older 4EAT automatics. this is also nice because i can tell it when to lock up...as opposed to letting the computer detect slip...in which case it starts to create ruts, before locking it. i also have an LSD rear end....just these two additions alone help a fair amount with snow/mud. LSD isn't perfect, but better than an open rear end.

the search function is our friend. click on "Advanced Search" and click on "search titles only". that should be the default since if you're looking for something, it's likely more specific info if what you're looking for is in the title. i'm going to suggest that get changed.....i think it would help everyone out. search funtion is great. use a * before or after a word if it doesn't return any results. if you type in "lug" and get nothing, then type in "lug*". as much as you hate reading through forums, knowledgeable folks hate posting over and over again about the same questions. i understand you're new, i'm only encouraging good use of the search funtion, it saves everyone time. some people don't care and that's lack of respect for the time the helpful/knowledge people of usmb put into helping thousands of people free of charge. there you have it....more endless rambling that you don't care about...how about some meat and potato's during this festive holiday then Gary Gross?????.........okay, drum roll please. lucky for you im working so i'm getting paid to do this...... here's the results of searching...exactly what you want in this thread, with pictures: go to Advanced search. click on "search titles only" type in the following: lug* go to the 12th item down....conveniently titled what you want. it has pictures and parts and all....

any idea where/who/what might have one? i know enough people i can usually figure something out. i'll have a look at it sometime this week. thanks for the all the heads up/ideas. sure beats crawling out there in 15 degree weather only to find i can't remove it anyway!

if you have the older gasket material then yes, you are more likely than newer ones. pretty sure you do...like he just said. doesn't mean it'll happen, just higher chance. it's not the end of the world really. they typically give warning signs and rarely just blow up (unless you let them run out of coolant and overheat). don't let them overheat and run out of coolant and they won't leave you sit. if it starts with the symptoms just pay the $1,000 or so (or do it yourself for a couple hundred) to install the new gasket design. the newer gaskets are a better design and alleviate the issues. also - post more details in your title, you'll get better responses. generic titles do nothing for those of us trying to help.

i'll check...heck i might even be able to access the rears easily from the inside, good point! i think the majority oppinion though is that hail damage sucks bad. that's why i'm swapping all the body panels (can do that myself).

tunered, thanks a bunch. i have an air hammer actually, came with my air compressor tools. never used it though, so no attachments for it yet. just found out from my uncle last night what it was for! is it hard getting it all lined up and on straight? this is on my OBS with only 75,000 miles. the car is in great condition, but has hail damage so maybe body work on those portions is easier than replacing panels? i have another OBS with perfect panels so that would be nice, but all that welding and cutting might not be worth it. a friend can likely weld for me, that's all he does is weld.

that sucks. any idea how much that would cost (not including the painting). $200? $2000? i have a torch and welder but i don't do body work. hhhmmm, i have a friend that's a professional welder, he would definitley weld for me. think he could pull it off? anyone here actually done it before? thanks guys! i'll try and change the title of the thread...

well.....looking to replace the rear quarter panels of my 97 OBS, are they removable at all? i know the fenders, doors, hatch should all be straight forward but i'm afraid the rear quarters aren't possible?

the newer headgasket design sounds like a great idea. i'm with you on the coppers, the leakage retorque thing isn't very appetizing. you don't retorque OEM EA82 headgaskets? FSM says to retorque? i'm getting ready to put one together, that's why i ask.

i'm kinda seeing it now. the AWD trans have shift linkages on the side of the trans, but i believe they'd be too long. you can run an AWD trans in FWD. for a manual AWD you'd have to lock the center differential (just pull the lever and leave it). and for an XT6 auto AWD you could keep the FWD circuit and leave that fuse in place. or you can lock the Duty solenoid C at all times and just have the rear output shaft spinning for nothing. not sure the long term effects on the solenoid...say 20,000 miles it might not like a 100% duty cycle, but may be fine. might be a waste of power to, don't know. i've personally done all of the above though with no issues. the advantage i guess would be that the AWD trans and probably the FWD trans that benebob mentioned (from an XT6) have the shifter linkage far up front on the side of the trans, relatively close to the engine. so if the linkage location is a serious issue the AWD or FWD XT6 trans may be an option, though i don't know their lengths. someone has to know this basic info though. but i can't imagine the AWD trans being any shorter than the FWD trans, so if raw length is an issue then it may not be helpful at all. you live in Americus Georgia. do you know chris (cletus) faircloth? i went to school with him in atlanta.

like ben, i'm having trouble picturing the exact set up and problem here. a little more details or sketch or picture would help.

i like them as well, i buy most of my parts from them and was planning on the bearings from them as well. thanks! buy never needing bearings, do you actually check them somehow? you reuse them? for $30 i'll just buy them, but curious about rebuilds since this will be my first. thanks all this should be funning learning...

here's a link to a thread talking about it: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=40472

i saw in the ultimate subaru repair manual a listing for installing some kind of shock to it....i assume for the purpose of lifting. see if you can find the USRM i just mentioned...not sure how i came across it.

cool, standard rings it is and new main bearings as well. thanks!

farmboy...got a place to hunt, send me a PM or email! can't help you out with meets and such. not sure how many soobs there are in NC/SC...guess we'll find out who posts. if you have a brat, post in the older generation forum. this is the newer generation, so brat and older soob owners may not look here.

timing belts have to be dead on. when each cam is lined up with the notch the flywheel marks should be dead on. and the cam marks are 180 degrees off from each other. the distributor can be very annoying to set straight. rotor pointing to 20 degrees sounds about right though. but the distibutor turns twice for every turn of the crank so you may have it lined up 180 degrees off. install it 180 degrees out and see if that fixes it. if you don't want to randomly reinstall it 180 degrees off, the way to get it exact or to check would be to remove the valve covers and spark plug #1. look for the piston through the plug hole, get it all the way to TDC (flashlight helps). once it's there, have a look at your valves (really have to deduce their position from the cam follower position, but same thing) and make sure they are both closed. if it's the exhaust stroke they'll both be open. you can also put your finger over the spark plug hole as you turn the motor over by hand and when you feel it pushing air out, that's on the compression stroke. i've never had much luck doing that...but maybe it was too cold and my hands were numb or something. once you verify the piston is TDC on the compression stroke (and not the exhaust stroke) then your rotor should be at #1 with the flywheel at 20 degrees.

i'd probably install the evap canister hoses for now, i think one is a vacuum line and should at least be plugged if it's open. pull the valve covers and have a look at the cam followers (rocker arms). make sure all are seated. heard of them not being perfectly seated before, think yo'ud experience something like you have. a compression test would be nice. lining up the distributor can be tricky, make sure it's dead on.

arch emailed awhile ago and mentioned "thrust washers" are needed for a complete rebuild. what are those? would i need them?

bought an EA82 from a guy and he had a brand new shiny block sitting there and asked if i wanted that too. sure, why not? if the crank spec's fine and the block is new, then standard sized bearings should be fine to use. piston rings? anyone ever use those gapless rings on the EA82?

good point, if you're just trying to save the coolant....capture it. i believe there's usually a radiator drain cock...sorry, that's really what it's called! anyway, turn the valve and the little hose drains coolant...tyipcally slow, but drains coolant. remove a cap for it to come out faster. if you're trying to get around burping the system of air....nothing i can think of.

i laid it against two others and all looked the same. i have another rotor of the same part number and all, i'm taking it back and checking it out again. bought same time as distributor so should be for the 6 cylinder but who knows.

not that i can think of.

FYI: for an XT6 any EJ series struts have to have the XT6 strut tops swapped onto them to work. So i'm guessing the front strut extensions would have to be a whole new animal for the XT6 if they install on the top of the strut. The bottom of an EJ series strut can work on the XT6, but not the top.

I have a new EA82 block. This is a brand new block with zero miles on it. I'll be building an NA EA82 with the 9.5:1 or whatever they are XT6 pistons. I have the pistons, rods and rod bearings. I shouldn't use used bearings right? What is a good source for main bearings and rings? Are aftermarket rings okay...those Topline kits you see on ebay for instance? Will it need honing...i guess i can just look to see if it has crosshatching already?