idosubaru

matt, there are probably better options than JB weld for trying to seal it up. i woudln't waste your time, JB weld does not make much of a sealant. depends where it's leaking...if it's leaking at the gasket then the water pump isn't failing and you could try to reduce the leakage. if the pump is on it's way out and coolant is coming out of the weep hole or through the front seal then no amount of anything will even help. if you suspect the gasket is leaking (never seen one do this from the factory though, so i don't know how likely that is)...but if it is then here's the best quick fix i can think of.... i'd let it sit for a few hours so the pump housing has a chance to drain that way it's as dry as possible while you're trying to seal it. then go down the autoparts store and look for your sealant options. i can't remember how much access you have to the water pump mating surface but here's what i'd try to do.....i think i'd get a tube of the sure-tack gasket adhesive and sealant. smear it all over the bottom and sides of the water pump where it's leaking. then i'd slap a strip of gasket material over the top of the sealant and hold it on there. auto parts stores sell gasket material, sheets of it to cut your own gaskets from. i don't recommend this, but if yo'ure not going to fix it right it could possibly help a bad gasket scenario. again, you would be lucky if the gasket were the cause of the leak and not the actual pump itself. typically a water pump won't necessarily leak terribly...though it can get that way in a hurry. so keep plenty of coolant/water mix in the trunk for now. that's a terrible idea, but if you can't fix it. make SURE the thermostat housing isn't leaking. rare and unlikely, but possible and easy to fix. you're about 3 hours away, that's pretty far otherwise i'd offer to do it for you much cheaper than a shop would.

you push a button and it'll disconnect just like a regular belt. so you can leave it "up" and just manually disconnect everytime like a normal belt if you don't like the automatic function of it. you just have two movements instead of one since the lap belt is seperate. all XT6's have them, i've never had any issues with them not working. they do occassionally do the strangle thing. release it and put it back or open the door again.

cool, that looks simple enough. if that lifts the body up, then doesn't that technically pull the wheels in a little or something? the axles have to follow the body up right, so that means it would pull the wheels in some or something? i've never done anything with lifts as you can tell. why do people build spacers for the rear diff? that would just reduce the axle angle if you lift the struts and then lift above the diff too?

run the fram for a little bit, i always change the oil quickly after having the motor open for anything anyway. how did you get the subaru letters colored differently on the valve covers? probably really simple but i know nothing about paint. looks cool though, probably gives it about 8hp wouldn't you say? and the cracks between the valve seats are very common on EA82 and ER27 motors. you'd be hard pressed to pull one of these motors apart and not find at least one crack there on any of these motors on the road today. nearly everyone i pull the heads on has this, and they're all NA motors.

***same thread from xt6.net*** last night someone was kind enough to throw some firewood my way. too bad it was in the middle of the freeway and i hit it at 65 mph. dented my transmission pan (still driveable though) and ripped my exhaust completely off. still made it to work like a dog on three legs though. now i have to weld new exhaust. first time i welded my exhaust was my only exhaust experience, and i welded some new exhaust for my friend. lining up the new flanges, welding them on perpendicular and the right angle, then welding the pipe on correctly...getting it all to line up was a bit tricky and time consuming. any hints on doing this more effeciently this time?

pull the a/c without unbolting or discharging it and lay it to the side, use bungee cords to hold it out of the way. do not unbolt anything from the intake...i remove the throttle cables (takes a couple seconds) and unbolt the intake manifold. lift it up and out of the way. it'll come up enough to pull the motor. might have to unbolt the intake hose from somewhere of your choice and remove the pcv hoses that may go to the valve covers. do this for head gasket replacement with the motor in the car or for pulling the block if you like. saves disconnecting alot of hoses, wires, vacuum lines and such. it's really a great move.

replace the thermostat, very easy and good insurance. do not let it get anywhere near the red anymore if you can help it. heat kills motors. the gaskets and seals and other items will not treat you kindly in years to come if the motor is run hot. failure of items later in life can be attributed to scenarios like this. have you had any coolant loss? how many miles? water pump could be going south as well. they often will leak prior to complete failure. looks for drops/wetness under the water pump area - close to the lower radiator hose and the thermostat.

maybe the cruise on/off button saves the cruise control system? either the solenoid, computer, cruise mechanism...something will last longer if it's not constantly powered or engaged? on the older soobs (like my XT6) if you push the cruise control button on, it always stays on. but the button is still there to turn off if you want to. but i can hear the cruise control on one of my XT6's when it's on, not sure what i'm hearing but i hear something. subaru moved away from this on the newer models. my OBS is like you said, always off when you start the car.

agree with replacement. it's not that expensive or hard to replace a fender. keep your eye out for one of the same color. post in the market place forum on this website that you need a fender, you might get lucky. i shipped one via Greyhound once and it was like 30 bucks. ebay maybe as well, but there are usually primered or new fenders on there so you'd have to paint it. how about just leave it? that's what i'd probably do. wire brush and paint/primer the metal so it doesn't rust and be done with it. but i don't care what mine look like so i'm a bit of a freak. i do like the Great Stuff (find it at home depot or lowes) idea, that's great!

you want to check this out and not just assume it'll go away. overheating will turn a great and reliable car/motor into junk. running hot is terrible on your motor, particularly the seals in it. also - you need to make sure you have a good concentration of coolant in there, not just water. winter is here as well as freezing temperatures for you and i both. water will freeze and crack your block/heads, make sure you have enough coolant if you added water by itself. disclaimer over.....i would replace the radiator cap but i wouldn't be too confident that will fix such a serious issue. i would inspect the water pump and radiator. the water pump....i think you can see it by removing the drivers side timing belt cover. if this sounds difficult, it is not. my mom or wife could do it. it doesn't require removing anything else, just a couple 10mm bolts i believe. you can leave the cover off for awhile and keep your eye on the water pump...you might immediately see some seepage from it. leave the car idle for 15 minutes or so in one spot once it's warmed up...but don't leave it sit by itself, make sure it doesn't over heat. in other words, don't start it and plan on coming back 15 minutes later only to find the Temp gauge through the roof. you should be fine, but stay close and keep an eye on it....after letting it idle for 15 or 20 minutes, look under the car for a couple minutes and look for drops. another check - remove the radiator fans (not difficult either) and check out the condition of the radiator. green corrosion and missing/busted out fins are not a good sign. post pictures of underside of car, radiator, wet spots, etc and we can help more.

nice job, looks great. so you just installed some spacers in the rear, to what? and just lengthened the struts with a spacer up front?

RAM performance has good information on extracting power from the EA81, read their website. i agree with morganm about top secret meaning dung from animals and inaccurate hp guesstimates. NOS would be another option.

i have the track 272 grind set on my XT6 subyrally. when i get the exhaust welded back up that got ripped off tonight from some nice person leaving their firewood all over the highway i can give you a ride in it. but i suppose that may not tell you very much anyway since you don't know how the XT6 drives stock? i drive it on the street but it sure does idle like crazy and wants to cut out at idle and also the vacuum is affected as the braking is worse as well. so yeah, what they said, not ideal for street use.

agree with the battery. driving with a bad alternator is terrible for the battery. the damage done to the battery likely started awhile ago, before just the actual last time the car quit on you. i can't tell you how many friends i've replaced alternators for and they had the battery go out shortly after. if reliability is a concern i'd have it replaced, it has likely sustained serious degredation. yes it'll test fine, yes it will work just fine with the new alternator, but not for nearly as long as it could have before. if reliability isn't a big deal, then drive it tills it drops.

1/4 past is nothing to be concerned about. oil light is of no use here. treatments to your oil will only work if the noise is valve train related. this may take awhile, it's not always a magical instant trick. it may take time to fully free up a sticky or frozen lifter. keep adding seafoam, MMO or ATF at every oil change. if the oil pump is to blame additives will not cure anything. you will need to reseal your oil pump and tighten the rear backing plate bolts (with locktite too). if the noise is really bad and the motor isn't in horrific shape then a compression test just might show you where the issue lies. or use a mechanics stethoscope. the idea is to try to narrow down the sound. is it all over the engine? both sidse of the engine? or just one cylinder? if it's one cylinder only then it's definitely an HLA at that cylinder. if it's all over then it's more likely oil supply related..though you could have more than one sticking HLA, but that becomes less likely the more instances you find. standard process is to try treatments first because it's cheap and anyone can do it, open can and dump in. after that you'll need to consider looking into resealing your oil pump or replacing HLA's. a compression test can also show a bad HLA if it's bad enough. you'll get way bad compression...even down to no compression if it's completely frozen and not doing anything in the right position.

make sure the flexplate is spinning. that's what the torque converter is bolted to. possible the bolts sheared (unlikely, but who knows?) did you install all the torque converter bolts properly...what is it, four of them i think? did you properly seat the input shaft of the torque converter when installing the torque converter? it typically takes awhile and is a little frustrating/time consuming to get it to seat the last 1/4 inch. if you don't seat it that final 1/4 inch it will ride on top of the oil pump rotor and not actually seat in it, then when you bolt things up tyipcally the oil pump rotor breaks. maybe yours somehow made it past the first start up? never heard of that happening before, but the biggest mistake made with auto trans installs of the 4EAT's is not seating that last 1/4 inch properly. has to be lined up just right to slide the last 1/4 inch. if you had trouble getting the trans bellhousing and engine to meet flush without torquing the bolts down then this is probably your problem.

TOD often wont' cause any problems. my first subaru...before i even knew how to change oil, ticked and i never did anything about it. drove it forever, just ignored the ticking.

could you have bad gas or water in the gas.....filling up just dilutes the bad stuff enough that you don't notice? first i would try lots of whatever gas treatments you use to remove water. if you still had the old pump you could swap it on (eventhough it sprays) to see if the problem goes away.

replacing the oil pump isn't a bad idea. not doing that, replace the oil pump gasket (the mickey mouse one) and..this is an EA82 right, also has an o-ring as well and an oil pump seal behind the sprocket on the oil pump. don't neglect replacing any one of these three items. the ticking can cause bad mileage - if the HLA is stuck it'll certainly decrease the performance of the motor. a compression check will isolate which one is the culprit and if you're showing zero compression, then that could be contributing to your bad gas mileage. i'd start with just replacing all the oil pump gaskets/seals/o-rings right now, move on from there. i wouldn't personally stretch any springs, but i've never had to do that. go with ATF/MMO after the oil pump reseal.

guess you already have it figured out, but no need for a full on rebuilt or headgaskets for a frozen cam. just replace the cam. can you tell if the bearing surfaces in the tower are scored? best to know for sure what happened before slapping new stuff on there and having it seize as well. i'd want to know that the cam seized and that it wasn't starved for oil. if it was starved for oil because that journal is clogged then a newly installed cam may end up doing the same thing. so let us know how the inspection of the old part turned out. post in the marketplace for this part.

i just posted about the CA/nonCA stuff in that other thread, go check it out. basically....there are no differences now. the latest revision of the nonCA spec belt is really the CA spec belt.

oil pump backing plate bolts need it if you can get them off. no others.

nice job using the search function.... i'm not familiar with your exact car, but i'll try to help. the rear support (sometimes called the mustache bar) that the diff bolts into typically isn't very stiff material. once the diff bolts are out, it has a good bit of play in it and you'll be able to push/pull it a good bit. push the diff forward, rear support back. just be careful so the diff doesn't pop out and fall on you. as a last resort if you needed more room to play with, just unbolt the carrier that holds the driveshaft from the trans under the car. don't unbolt the driveshaft itself, just whatever holds it to the underbody, typically a center carrier support that's only 2 bolts. remove those two bolts and the driveshaft will slide out of the transmission and give you all the room in the world to more it around....by only removing what is usually 2 14mm bolts (not familiar with the specifics of your model though). and the exhaust has always been avoidable by me, just move it a little if it's in the way of the driveshaft. you might not have to do this, just a last resort that only requires removing two bolts. i've definitely dropped a diff by unbolting those two bolts you speak of, so it might be that simple. then there's usually one bolt above the diff as well that needs to be removed. it's usually a 22 or 24 mm bolt on the drivers side with a 17 mm nut on the passengers side and the bolt will only slide through one way, so if it doesn't seem like it wants to go it, install it from the other side. each model is different so this probalby isn't exactly true in your case. with high mileage/age look at the rear differential bushing. they crack/break after awhile and while you have it apart/off is a good time to replace it if needed. i replaced mine a couple weeks ago at 220,000 miles. it was cracked all the way through, the rubber bushing.

they are the same belts now. if you order the non-cal spec belt you will still receive the cal-spec belt. in other words they are the same. the non-cal belt part number is a newer part number than it was when it was first available...there's like one number different indicating a "revision" to the original part. the only revision is that it is now the same belt as the cal-spec belt. the only thing you want to make sure of is that you're not getting what they call "new old stock", which is older parts that are still brand new, never used. but they are the old part numbers. it is still debatable whether those older belts were even any different, but best to just get the new ones. i think you'd have a tough time finding a new old stock timing belt anyway. that kind of stuff ends up on ebay on occassion.

okay...what i said was for the 2.2....but all of the above information still applies to your motor except that you should have everything replaced right now. if any of the pulleys are tight and feel like new then they are retaining the grease and no need to replace. i'd say roughly 50 percent of the pulleys need replacing...obviously that varies wildly dependent on a zillion things and mileage but in general....some need replacing and others are perfectly fine. as a side note - timing belt failure does not require replacement of the car or even the motor. only requires a good mechanic. a friend of mine just fixed the valves in the head of a broken timing belt 2.5 about a month ago. it's not that horrible of a job...the only hard part is finding an honest mechanic willing to pull the heads and fix it. most likely will see bent valves, pistons should be fine. replace the valves and be on your way, much better than replacing the motor or the car. and if done right you've got a great motor ready for another couple hundred thousand miles.