idosubaru

sounds great, thanks guys. reinstalling the cams is straight forward? solid rockers/lifters? done timing belts before so that's no problem. just need the valve covers and cams to come off. i remove the intake bolts from the head and the a/c mount bolt on the XT6 and prop the intake up and out of the way without disconnecting much of anything, will i be able to pull that off on this motor too?

no offense meant. being blunt i guess because i'm at work, based on that i posted it was possible and you still mentioned you didn't see how they could come off. i ask other people to help me, i have no shame in that. the EA82 is cake, easiest timing belt i've ever done. too bad it's two and not just one, then it'd be really easy. you shouldn't have much trouble, you'll likely take your time the first time and may want to address other items while you're in there, but it can be done in about an hour.

best bet is find someone to replace the head gasket. get a new gasket from subaru, they have remedy the issues of the originals. the newer engines/models have the upgraded head gasket in them and they will work in your vehicle....you will have to verify years, but i believe at least some of the 2000 year models (and up) have the upgraded gaskets. money is better spent on your motor, new gaskets, timing belt, and pulleys.

breaker bar for head bolts? you tigthened them past factory specs?

make SURE they are seated no matter what you get. that's the tricky part with those deep wells.

yes, non-interference. there are 3 parts to the cover. the center cover requries removing the crank bolt. the side covers don't require removing anything...except maybe the fan. just look at the covers more closely and you'll see around the edges, some bolts. or pull the distributor cap and look at the rotor to see if it spins. it's very straight forward, if you're confused and think the a/c or alternator is in the way then you need someone else to work on it for you. but it's very simple.

well if it's an EA82 the covers should be very easy to remove. it might be a little tight, but no big deal i don't think to get the right and left covers off. just need to have a peak. sounds like the thing might not be in great shape or someone did some hack work to it, hopefully you'll get it fixed. not exactly a prime subaru example to make a good impression with. the EA82 is a nice motor though, they are very durable.

cool, thanks keith. i think i'll try it in the car. i've done others in the car, including the 6 cylinder XT6 and it's tight but doable. any special tools helpful? ratcheting wrenches are awesome for the XT6 for instance. i hate getting the engine lift ready, hooking it all up, coaxing it all out and...back in again, you get the point.

Does the 2.5 DOHC motor have to be pulled to replace the head gaskets? I know it makes it easier, but i sure do hate pulling motors. found lots of info about headgaskets but not whether it's doable in the car.

the timing covers take all of a couple minutes to remove, just 10mm bolts and the left and right covers come off, allowing you to look at the belt. compression test will also show a broken belt. if you here *slapping* while trying to start the car, that's the belt flopping around, but that's not a good idea as it could wrap onto something it shouldn't. remove the distributor cap is another method people use because the drivers side belt is the most likely to break. if the rotor isn't turning then the belt is broke. i don't like that method because it doesn't show you anything about the passengers side, which doesn't break as often, but can. and, you can remove the covers in about the same amount of time.

that's basically what i'm saying. in comparison to pulling and installing a transmission, installing a drive shaft and rear diff is like buying a coffee. it's easy enough to figure the driveshaft and rear diff out later if he wants to go ahead and install the trans now. could do the driveshaft and rear diff last or he could lock the center diff and drive it in FWD until he figures out the ratios and locates the parts. those parts are easy to find as well. obviously never drive with the wrong ratio, he would definitely have to figure his ratio out sometime, now or later.

the clunk could be his brake pads shifting around.

this topic has been covered twice this week. you didn't mention what car/motor you're installing them on. if it's any newer motor...i would guess you have a 2.2 or 2.5 then you want to install Subaru OEM wire only. the only aftermarket wires i'd even think about installing on the newer motors are magnecor: http://www.magnecor.com (you can buy them cheaper elsewhere though). some on the board say Subaru OEM wires only. either way you choose, don't even try some other brand or something from the parts store, bad idea on these motors due to the deep wells and difficulty in seating the wires.

if it's the same as the XT6: http://www.etoolcart.com./index.asp?PageAction=PRODSEARCH&txtSearch=SU-022&btnSearch=GO&Page=1

if it's a 5 speed from an XT6, they are all 3.9 ratio. if not, just turn it over by hand and count the number of revolutions of the front diff versus the output/input shaft. 39/10 is 3.9 and 37/10 is 3.7 obviously. you can always do the rear diff/driveshaft stuff later, that's not imperative to get it installed and running.

here's a picture of what the set looks like. there is one square bushing and one round bushing. each bracket is like 2 bolts, replace the bushing and bolt it back on. then you're done. $34.95 from these guys: http://www.esxmotorsports.com/html/contact.htm and you're done. though i don't see them listing these anymore.....not sure if they still carry them. hope so, i wanted a set too!

you're way ahead of yourself, i don't think you'll need a new rack. i've seen this before and it tends to just be the square-ish bushings, you can just replace those. they aren't that expensive and aren't that hard to replace. much smaller and less expensive job than replacing the rack. i know of one person who's bushing bracket bolts were loose enough to turn by hand even, so just the bolt being loose was the issue. i forget what model you have, but any soob from 90-96 should share steering rack bushings. they are easily to find and replace, i can't find a link to any right now though.

try new pads. or new rotors. the pads may be shifting rearward in the caliper housing and contacting rusted portions of the rotor that are rarely touched when loaded in the *forward* position. just a wild guess. i would think new pads/rotors would solve the problem regardless.

YES. definitely don't bother replacing the fuel filter, except as a tune up item, you will not find your problem there. i doubt it is fuel related. first thing you need to do is take it to AUTOZONE or some other auto parts store (call around) that reads your Check Engine Codes for FREE. once you know why that code is on then we'll likely tell you how to fix it. wires are a typical issue with these things. they need to be Subaru OEM or magnecor (some argue Subaru only). that's my first guess. but there's plenty of other possibilities. it's all just guess work and trial and error until you READ THAT CODE. a good tune up prevents alot of problems - batter cables clean/tight, spark plugs, wires, air filter, oil change.

probably easier to buy a die and chase the threads, that should clean them up just fine. then you'll have that die for when your next stud gets cracked up, as soon as you feel the lug nuts get tigth, chase them and all is good. or chase them all and feel how wonderfully smooth they'll spin on/off. the studs are press fitted into the hub. access is the pain, the back plates, calipers and not many access holes through the rear make it a less than desirable job. but it is possible with enough patience in the older roos. hold the stud in place, grab it and start threading the nut on it. thread the nut on (without a wheel in place) to seat and pull the stud through the hub.

good job on the t-belts and the covers definititely suck real bad. i run without covers with no ill effects. i would get that crank bolt tighter than that, sounds a little light to me even if it's the recommended value. it's a iron crank and iron bolt so you are unlikely to strip that big 22mm bolt. i crank it pretty dang tight with my 1/2" craftsman and a long pipe on the end. it's not aluminum like the other things on the motor, so no worries on stripping it.

if you can verify the clutch packs are indeed different it is highly likely you could swap the clutch packs between the two and have the better clutch pack on the trans you install.

aftermarket bearings are fine for this car. where in maryland? i'm in westminster, but work in greenbelt. if you were close i could look at it for you. might even be able to fix it for you much cheaper than a random shop. PM or email me. you'll be fine driving it 12 miles. if damage is done, it's probably already done to the hub.

a properly working head gasket is certainly better than an additive, i'd consider it a cheap fix. but no matter, you have a leak. if you want info, this site if full of EJ25 (2.5 liter motors) head gasket issue topics. look through those posts and find out what phase motor you have and if yours is a susceptible to head gaskets problems. different years/phases had more problems than others. the newer head gasket is designed to compensate for the original problem so replacing the head gasket while expensive is a good option. at that mileage yo'ure close to needing new timing belt components, maybe you can work a deal with them? cut the costs and get new timing belts in the process of this head work? best to go ahead and replace them both while it's all apart. or i would anyway. that being said - depending how bad the leak is, in my experience if there' no internal leakage then it's likely the gasket will hold up for a long time, but who wants to take that chance? best to replace.

also called the seperator.