idosubaru

ah that makes sense. is there any difference between the FT4WD and the AWD on the XT6 (speaking of manual trans)?

i understand those differences, still wondering why people prefer the FT4WD trans over the part time 4WD? or maybe they don't.

i haven't looked at it yet other than the body and quick glance of the interior. i'll have a peak at the diff. if it's a 3.7 then i see no need to swap trans. what's the difference between a FT4WD and the part time 4WD? why do people like the FT4WD so much? they both 5 speed and 3.7?

i removed a pedal assembly without pulling the steering column...DUMB. don't try it unless you like lots of time getting no where and beating things, using foul language.....ha ha ha.....

cut and weld a new nipple on there...HA HA!!! if you know what you're doing in terms of getting the gas fumes out of the tank: cut if off or seal it off and drill/tap a new hole and screw a fitting in place. as a matter of fact i don't know what this nipple looks like but you maybe be able to tap the inside of the nipple and thread an insert inside of it. but then you reduce your ID. if you drain the tank and let it air out you should be able to weld something on there. but don't do it unless you're confident all the fumes and such are gone and you know what you're doing. i'm sure i'll get bombarded for this, but in my experience short cuts don't have near the rigidity of a job done right. JB weld is good.....but wouldn't expect long life or high miles out of the repair. i've had JB weld do some really cool stuff, i've also had it fall apart over long periods of time. i avoid it now, or consider it a temporary solution and would never use it on someone elses car.

AWESOME! glad i was incorrect! thanks again all.

i originally was looking for a manual FWD XT. i pushed 40 mpg in my old one driving all highway miles. it was only 3 years old when i got it in 1991. i could get 500 miles on a tank on all highway trips. that's what i'm aiming for now. this FT4WD XT Turbo was close, had a blown motor (i wanted to a put a new one in anyway) and from someone from the board so it was a good match. hopefully it does well, i'm converting it to NA, i'll be removing the turbo. mine is a push buttom 4WD 5 speed right? TROGDOR, i should be moving out to morgantown next year and be going through there a few times between now and then maybe we'll meet up? which trans is it that is FWD until you put it in 4WD? wouldn't those get better mileage since they are FWD unless you put it in 4WD? i guess it doesn't make much difference really.... you guys are great putting up with all my stupid questions...i was pretty confident it was a 3.9 trans, i'm still learning all this as you can tell. thanks for all the help folks,

87.5 XT Turbo FT4WD, i thought those were all 3.9's? but i'm just learning all this EA82 interchange stuff. quite confusing. any idea what thread that was, i didn't see it when i was searching. a rear 3.7 turns fewer times at a given speed than a 3.9 so i'd think having a 3.7 rear diff would offer the best mileage for highway driving (and that's how it plays out with my auto 3.7 and manual 3.9's on the XT6's). so i'd like to have a 3.7 in my XT when i'm done. but - if the 3.9 trans are better then maybe i could get the 3.7 front diff into my FT4WD trans (if it's 3.9 now, which i thought it had to be).

i'm converting my FT4WD XT Turbo to NA and building this thing for the best gas mileage possible. a 3.7 transmission should get better gas mileage than a 3.9 right? or do the 4 speed trans get less than the 5 speeds? i guess the determining factor is the final drive ratios? anyone know which trans has the best final drive ratio for highway gas mileage? i'm thinking maybe swapping a 3.7 front diff into my FT4WD 5 speed trans may be the way to go if that's possible.

i'm not interested in polluting but i'll justify EGR removal by the fact that i'm gearing this vehicle towards optimum gas mileage so it can't be worse than what i'm putting out now with my XT6.

the first and only EA82 i worked on for a guy on the XT6 group had that stupid tube connected at the bottom of the drivers side head, that thing was annoying. definitley getting rid of it on mine if it has it and i don't need it.

so there are 3.7 ratio manual transmissions out there? thanks pat, i'll do some searching and maybe start another thread. a 3.7 ratio will will get better gas mileage than a 3.9 right? getting a 3.7 manual would be the best way to go. after reading up on trans differences there's no way swapping the auto diff into the manual would be possible.

XT6 automatic transmission 4EAT AWD - 3.7 gear ratio XT Turbo Manual transmission FT4WD - 3.9 gear ratio I'd like to have the manual transmission with a 3.7 gear ratio output like the automatics. Will the front diff of the 4EAT swap into the XT Turbo manual FT4WD trans. how could i find out, what would i be looking for if i took the trans apart?

depends how much power you're after. the Xt6 isn't a good candidate for a turbo, but the easiest and cheapest way would be to install a turbo on your XT6 and run it at low boost.....5-7 psi is probably the most you can get without needing any kind of controller or reach the limit of the fuel system. combined with a high end tune up, light weight crank pulley and intake/exhaust mods like kevin mentioned and you'll be adding good power. but you are limited by the computer and fuel system, that's why i say 5-7 psi max. but the good thing is that it would only cost you a turbo, exhaust and intake work and a good tune up which you would want no matter what engine you're getting. there is no after market exhaust/intake for the XT6, but installing any other motor is going to require custom work anyway so that's a wash. if you're doing the intake/exhaust work yourself then you'd basically only need the turbo and associated parts (BOV...etc). a 2.2 turbo or other alternative is the way to go if you want lots more power and a real screamer. but that's expensive, requires installation (more $) and custom work as it won't work with the stock ECU, so you'll need the 2.2 computer and wiring harness as well. and if you have an auto trans i don't know how the wiring harness will swap over as the auto trans uses input from the 2.7 liter sensors...TPS at least. it's definitely possible, definitely a good option, probably a light motor but sounds like it doesn't have the cost advantage you're looking for.

what is the EGR valve and why doesn't the XT6 have one? exhaust gas recirculation, i think that's what it stands for but i don't know what it does. it's connected to the intake? so if i didn't install it on mine, how would i block the hole?

there are others in australia that have done it so there must be some incentive to do so. there are some good threads already posted on the subject on this board. try searching all the forums, i've read up on most of the existing threads, some really good info already here.

wire order seems right.

i just found out from a guru at xt6.net that the rear hubs don't require removing anything. apparently after the cv is off and the "axle" nut is off it just slides out (with some coaxing of course). looked like one big assembly to me. but the great thing about this is that i found out torches are cheap and i need bigger impact wrenches.

i don't think the "confused computer" theory has much chance of being right. i know a couple people that drive soobs on sand with no problems. i've driven in all sorts of mud, snow, ice, burried, stuck, crazy hills and corn stalks...etc in manual and auto AWD with no problems. don't know where to begin on this one.

buddy has a torch, used it once before and a troubled bolt came off in about 2 seconds. but i personally don't own a torch. not sure what my impact wrench is rated, should probalby check that. i was wondering how they rated them. just picked up a compressor/tools this summer so im' still learning the ropes. i've been using 1/2" drives, i just had to use a 3/8" to get to one of the bolts. it sheared right off. don't think i've torqued on a nut yet....been doing everything on the head side of the bolt so i'm good there. thanks,

i can try a nut breaker or just drill out the three bolts. the other one towards the center of the car has very limited access, doubt i'll be getting bulky tools in there.

i'm trying to remove my hubs on the rear of my AWD XT6 parts car. i don't know what any of these parts are called....but it doesn't much matter almost none of the bolts will come off. twisted off a 3/8 extension. squirted over and over with liquid wrench and they do not move at all even with a couple foot breaker bar. hit them with my air/impact wrench and it just sat there impacting and none of the bolts would move. there are three bolts on the arm going up towards the front of the car and none will move. the part they are bolted to bolts to the car with one bolt and it doesn't budge. the arm going from the hub to the center of the car won't budge either and access is very difficult. there isn't really that much rust...i mean it's there but i've seen much worse. some don't really have much rust at all. there aren't many bolts to get this thing off but DUDE is this annoying.

excellent work. that's freaking awesome. in the past i've read all the posts on here about windshield installations....very few people attempt this, nice work. sounds like you took excellent precautions for heating the adhesive.

did you go over the wire connections on the cap? sounds like your wires are switched up to me.

i would double and triple check the wires are properly hooked up. front passengers side plug is #1 - #3 is behind that. front drivers side plug is #2, behind that (closest to the distributor) is #4. check for spark out of each plug coming from the distributor cap. in my experience the TPS can affect starting as i've had one cut off before while adjusting the TPS "by ear". the factory service manual for adjusting the TPS to spec is not right, so you have to do it by ear. basically if you turn the TPS all the way one direction i think (it's been a while though), i think it will idle high. keep backing the TPS down and it will gradually lower the RPM....keep turning it slowly until it's just about to cutoff, then nudge it up just a pinch. OR - alternately if you bumped your existing TPS - just look for the marks on the throttle body....you should be able to see orginal dust/dirty lines from where the TPS sat installed for years. that should get you close enough. the coolant temp sensor can keep it from starting too. the sensors almost never go bad (i've never heard of a confirmed instance of one going bad, though people replace them all the time). it's the connections getting corroded that causes the problem. replacing the sensor gives you new contacts, but that is only half the problem....the connector that plugs into the sensor would also be corroded and dirty if that was the original problem. that being said - check that connection and make sure the contacts (sensor side AND wiring harness side) are clean. this probably is not your problem, unless you're seeing a Check Engine light. although i had one instance about 10 years ago of a coolant temp sensor connection causing a no start without any CE light for some reason.