idosubaru

no issues with one piece. i'm with him, if you spend any money on this deal go solid one piece and get replaceable ujoints on the ends that way you're not dealing with problems down the road. the ujoints are already old as nuts.

horsenuts, can't seem to get a consensus here. guess i'll run the carbed block for awhile and see how it does. i have another block and set of turbo heads that i can rebuild if it's a big difference. i'll definitley post results to clarify some. thanks all,

engine/transmission mounts, engine torquing when you gas or decelerate and hitting something. i've heard of engines hitting the hood when engine mounts go out. check bolts - tire lug nuts and axle nuts for tightness. is this an AWD? if so i'd inspect the ujoints of the driveshaft. best to remove and inspect unless you're really good at inspecting them on the car. off the car a bad ujoint will look terribly bad or just feel very "lump" when you move it by hand.

the bolt is on TIGHT. if it's a manual trans put it in gear to keep the crank from turning when you're loosening the bolt. if it's an automatic use the screwdriver mentioned in the flexplate (i like to use a stout socket extension personally) in the access hole under the intake hose where it meets the throttle body. then use a large breaker bar or pipe over your ratchet to break the bolt loose. nothing special, it's just on there really tight. use a breaker bar. a really simple way to do it that requires nothing is to let the socket hang on the crank pulley and then crank the motor over with the starter (turn the key), but make sure the car doesn't start (disconnect the plug wires from the coil pack). the socket will spin around until it hits the motor mount and when it contacts the motor mount the bolt will loosen. make sure the socket is long enough and will contact the motor mount by turning it by hand first. i've gotten this to work everytime i didn't have a breaker bar handy. so long as you're competent and know what you're doing it takes about 19 seconds to get the bolt loose this way.

great! thanks ross! i've got a good source for a known good carbed block so i'd like to install that one but i didn't know anything about CR differences. i've always worked on XT6's, all of them have the same CR so this is all new to me. i'll try and post my results once it's installed. good news, thanks for the reply!

This will be an NA engine (NO TURBO). the car already has the turbo heads, spider intake and ECU, so i'm just trying to decide what block to put in it. someone has an 8.7 carbed block with turbo heads ready to install. i may install the 8.7 and see how it does while i rebuild the other block with 9.0 pistons. any idea if the gas mileage difference would be significant between 8.7, 9.0 and 9.5? are we talking like 0.3 mpg or like 5 mpg? thanks a ton for all the feedback fellers!

ever changed the ATF? might be a good place to start at 80k you're due anyway. with a minor symptom, changing the ATF might help. on the passengers side strut tower there's a shift resistor on some 4EAT's (maybe all, i don't know). i disconnect mine for firmer and quicker shifts. i'd unplug yours to see if it makes any difference in shifting. if your glitch went away after unplugging then maybe that shift resistor is bad. i doubt this is the problem, but since it literally takes like 13 seconds to try it doesn't hurt. better than starting with complicated diagnosis. shift kits bypass this resistor under certain circumstances...unplugging it basically does the same thing except you don't give someone else your money.

the 8.7:1 pistons will get worse gas mileage than 9.0:1 or 9.5:1 compression ratio pistons right? any idea how much difference?

might be picking up an NA EA82 with a carbed block and turbo heads on it. he said it'll be around 11:1 compression ratio. would i have to run high test gasoline with that set up? i'll be running it NA. thanks,

first you need to verify that the pump is indeed flowing fuel...not just making noise. if you had to fix someone else's wiring job i'd wonder what they were trying to fix in the first place? run 12 volts to the pump with the outlet side of the hose disconnected. make sure gas actually comes out of the pump. if that checks out then run the pump (with hoses all attached), but disconnect a fuel line in the engine bay (prior to fuel filter) and see if fuel flows to the engine bay.

might want to check with the NASIOC guys. some of them guys should be quite familiar with the performance of these trans.

if it's OEM subaru gaskets then you need to retorque. yes it sucks but it's best to do it right after doing all that work. i'm not positive but there might be a way to retorque the EA82 bolts without removing the entire cam and rocker arms??? i thought i heard of people using a special socket to reach the hard to get to bolts....but maybe that was a different motor. if you have to remove the cams, best to not apply any sealant to the cam case when you first rebuild. because you'll be taking it right back off again when you go to retorque. then you end up cleaning up all that sealant off the heads and cam case. after retorquing, then seal the cam case.

what he said...pop the trunk and the computer hangs under the rear shelf. can't miss it....a box hanging with a single blinking green LED on it. the LED blinks your codes. finding out what is causing your Check Engine light only requires popping your trunk, that is it.

okay you need to post pictures or email them to me and i'll post them. lots of talk of convertible XT's/XT6's over the years yet noone has ever produced a picture or actually seen one. i saw a convertible looking XT about 10 years ago in maryland. i did not get close enough to tell if it really was a functional convertible or just a rag top over a regular XT...a covering so to speak. go to http://www.xt6.net for XT6 specific information, there will alot of folks very interested to see some convertible picks if you indeed have one.

i was wondering about gearing as well...but was going to wait on that one since i've never done internal trans work. i'd like to have the 3.7 gearing of the auto in the manual. the rear would be easy...but i'm guessing no easy way to do the front diff gearing? anyway to swap that from an auto into a manual? how nice it would be if the front diffs were perfectly swappable!

what's the difference bewteen SPFI and MPFI pistons? will i have to go to high grade gas on the SPFI pistons? why did they use lower compression pistons in the MPFI?

end of break-in comments. i can start a new thread when i get to that point. it's not really needed now. no go on the bike, won't suit my needs and i don't want one. snow, storage, passengers, long trips, rain (60 mile one way commute), DC traffic is hell, i've never driven one...

listen to above post. trans cooler is a must. these trans will survive much better with a cooler. check to see if the tires match....if they are way off then i'd plan on the trans not lasting long (if this is an AWD SVX...don't know if they made FWD, but i think they did). expensive trans and hard to find used because they are in high demand...well relatively high considering the small numbers available. cracked glass...windshields are expensive....$700 or so i believe. wheel bearings go out like nobodies business. i think improperly torqued lugnuts are a contributing factor to wheel bearing failure. i think you've read most of the highly problematic areas...after that they are great cars.

awesome pat. i'll already have the turbo cams. are they definitely different than the EA82 cams? i'll stick with the stock ECU for ease of use and troubleshooting. i'll use standard break-in procedures. what would be the best pistons to use for gas mileage? highest compression? would that be the standard EA82 pistons? i have some of those already so if there isn't much difference i'll likely use those. i can get lightweight forged pistons but i'm thinking that wouldn't transfer into much gas mileage savings. i'll have a complete head job done.

racing can be a bad comparison because they don't care if they have to rebuild. race teams will rebuild a motor every day or less often as funding allows. i have been using K&N filters for years. bought an XT6 with 75,000 miles and ran the same K&N in it until 196,000 miles. the car was lost due to fire but was in great shape...well that's debatable, i killed the cosmetics offroading but the engine was fine. so the filter, plugs (torquemaster), wires (magnecor) all had about 125,000 miles on them. plugs and wires were trashed due to fire (drivers side). filter was fine (passengers side), bought another XT6 and dropped it in for many more miles in that car....don't recall how many i got in the second XT6 on that K&N but easily 150,000 miles on one filter i'd say. i currently have a new one in my 220,000 mile XT6 that's been in there for years....probably 100,000 miles, but i don't recall exactly when i installed it.

are there any particulars to rebuilding a motor for best gas mileage (highway mileage)? boring over and head/work will increase power but decrease gas mileage i guess? i'm getting an XT (actually an XT Turbo, but i'm installing an EA82 motor in it) saturday that will become my highway vehicle and i'm gearing it for gas mileage. on a side note - does CCR rebuild long blocks only or short blocks as well? what does an EA82 rebuild cost? i sent them an email but go no reply.

i've rebuilt a few XT6 calipers. the rust you see is likely just surface rust and will also occur on newly installed calipers in no time. you can pick up rebuild kits for under 10 dollars....i think i found a set for 5.65, or right around there for an XT6. and that's for both sides. so two rebuilt calipers for a couples dollars and some grease. it is very simple. piston comes out, install new seal and boot and you're done. helps having good tools, but otherwise it is a straight forward job.

port and polish the heads and have them bench tested and flowed. have a head specialist (machine shop) look at the valve train for possibilities on valve improvements. have the fuel injectors professionally cleaned (RC Engineering) and a valve job done. no point in all this work without stuff performing up to their potential.

CEL is liking causing your issues. read the code it's giving you. it could be any number of codes. i can almost promise it's not fuel related as you suspect but aside from that it's all guesswork until you read the code. trans work should not make the light come on. i would guess the coolant temperature sensor first. usually the contacts are dirty...sitting awhile can make them worse. pull the plug and inspect the contacts on the harness clip and the sensor itself. clean it all up. a new sensor will only delay the problem for a couple months if the connector is still corroded. i hacked the connector off and soldered it directly to the sensor as a permanent solution. read the code(s) and post back.

that price is for the pair.