idosubaru

subaru dealer i talked to said they use a pennzoil synthetic (yellow bottle), they even showed me the bottle. got the same stuff from a parts store but much cheaper than subaru tried to sell it to me for. i added all new fluid when i got it been running that diff for a couple years with no problems, still works great.

what's a good way to clean seats. i have an XT6 with the standard late 80's type soob seats. best stuff or method? wetvac of some sort or just chemicals?

you could try changing the oil. otherwise leave the car with them and get a loaner, this is not your problem and why you pay rump roast loads of money for a new car. that's their responsibility, not yours. no way this should be happening. videotape it if you can and take it into them.

tightening the crank until the engine turns over is not tight enough. you need to hold the crank in place. either put the car in gear (if it's a manual trans) or remove the rubber cap to see the flexplate of the transmission under the throttle body. jam a stout socket extension in a hole in the flexplate to keep the motor from turning over. then torque the crank bolt. if it came off or comes off again it can damage the crank pulley and can also damage the end of the crank (serious pain in the rear). the wobbling could be to a deformed pulley mounting hole or to a deformed crank or due to the rubber lining in the pulley being compromised.

the older 4EAT's have shift solenoids mounted on the passengers side strut tower. i intentionally disconnect them to make firmer/harder shifts. yours could be disconnected or not working properly. i'd check the connection to it (if yours has one, which i think it does) and then test it with a multimeter. you could also disconnect it to see if it stills drives the same or if the shifting changes. if shifting doesnt change after unplugging it then yours probably isn't working right.

your EA82 pump will work just fine for the XT6.

i'd loosen some of the trans mount bolts in the rear so the trans/engine combo can get a better angle at the holes. loosen the trans mounting bolts and make sure the pitch stopper and front engine mounts aren't installed or are nice and loose. now with a jack...maybe even two (one for the engine/one for trans). one on the engine should work, i'd try to get it behind the crossmember if there's room otherwise it will want to tilt the assembly instead of just lifting it up. then it'll be center and should wiggle around enough to fall in place. basically once the weight is off of it, it should wiggle around easy enough and fall into place. this is pretty common in my experience, in case you were wondering why it did that. mine catch at times as well.

that one picture i looked at had duallies but i've seen plenty of truck tires that are as wide as the two of those skinny things. and why the hell is everyone suggesting only stopping at two wheels on each axle? how about 3 or an extra set of axles...let get serious now and quit BSing. Tracks, now you're talking.

sounds like an auto antenna is ruled out if a legacy even has one.

i'm not a professional..... this really becomes an anecdotal debate, it's good to ask yourself this questions first: do you have a particular reason for wanting to use synthetic? unless you really want to, there's not much need for it, because even though synthetics are very good, conventional oil has proven quite capable of doing it's job as well. just make sure you change it when you're supposed to. that being said i would change the diff and trans fluids to synthetics as they can improve the feel of the shifting in some vehicles. that's the feedback i've gotten, never noticed it personally. that could be due to the fact that the fluid just needed to be changed with anything...changing it with mountain dew might have been better than whatever old junk was in there, i don't know but synthetic gear/trans oil has gotten some good feedback it seems to me. my best friend does nothing himself and just doesn't pay attention to anything so i told him to switch to synthetics in his toyota 4 runner thinking he'd never change his oil regularly. i now consider that a good decision, he's at 190,000 miles or so and the thing runs like it did when he first got it, doesn't leak or use a drop of oil and has only needed the power steering pump replaced in all that time. lucky @^&$*(*&~!!!. if you don't plan on keeping the car for a very long time like 150,000-200,000 miles then i wouldn't switch. but if you don't like to change your oil often you can benefit from the less frequent change intervals of synthetics. if you're a purest and like the thought of using the perfect fluid then use sythetics. but conventional oil is very good stuff as well and won't let you down. if you plan on racing or towing or being otherwise more aggressive than average for your car then synthetics might not be a bad idea either.

grease and lots of it works everytime for me. i do it first try with the XT6...more of em and less room to work with and rarely drop any. LOTS of grease. engine tilt with the jackstand doesn't work that well. doesn't really work at all as you typically can't get enough angle to make any difference in my oppinion. i tried it the first time and it wasn't worth the effort considering grease is garaunteed to work every time. what makes it worse is that the car is usually off the ground quite a bit for me...XT6 being a little higher probably and even on jackstands sometimes to facilitate pulling the headers. so unless you keep the car right on the ground and make the headers a serious PITA to remove then using a jack isn't going to give you much angle. the short answer...grease 'em every time and don't look back. if it doesn't work then the grease is the wrong kind or not thick enough or not using enough of it. they stick very well the dozens of times i've done it.

can't make it, i gotta work. 12 hours of work, so no way to even make part of it. let me know if you need those rods before sept as i'm not starting my project until then so i haven't even opened the box yet except to look and say hey there's some pistons and rods.

like just mentioned, disconnect the engine harness and check continuity from there of both wires. or check from the ECU if that's easily accessible and you can decipher which wire is associated with those injectors terminals.

go to walmart and buy a couple feet of that fish hose in the fish department. get enough of it....i usually get like 10 feet to make sure i got plenty. one size will fit snug right over the bleeder of the brake caliper (at least on the XT6 it does). slide it over the bleeder screw and work the hose around so it comes out sort of straight but has a loop that goes down and comes back up so to speak. stick it in a bucket to maintain shape and catch the fluid. the hose will keep air from getting back into the caliper. start pumping the brakes and be sure to keep checking the master cylinder...it always takes 32 pumps to get close to the bottom the first time then the second it seems like you only did 7 and went to far! if you're expecting people to return favors then that's more or less a barter system really, that's reciprocation not a friendship. when you find good people, stick to them and learn from them. they will be there when it counts but they are few and far between as well. i have like a very small group of close friends that i know i could wake up right now with a call in the night and they'd be on the way. not that i'm friends with them for the benefit of their services but i've recognized them as credible, dependable and worthy of being people i can learn from and respect. and i'd do anything for them as well and typically i'm their mechanic since they don't really work on cars. i enjoy helping them out. when i help out anyone outside of that small group i expect nothing in return. i've learned not to expect much from people and i'm much happier. also need to draw boundaries, i just got married this year and i need to cut off projects and helping people out that i normally would have taken on. otherwise i get frustrated like you. so basically....i'm just like you, except noone has hosed me as recently!!

so why are the parts available for it then if it was never used here? t-belts, water pump, oil pump, seals, head gasket set, etc? moving the turbo's can't be that hard. can the EJ22T ECU handle the same amount of power as the EJ20T? can you realize 250 or more out of a stock EJ22T? im in the process of searching nabisco.

you said only in non-USDM forms, so this motor was never in any US soobs? i'd go for the entire engine, trans, ECU and TCU with harness as an assembly.

so it's a 2 liter twin turbo? what soobs are they found in? i assumed subaru went from the 1.8 liter platform to the 2.2 and 2.5 liters.

didn't find much in searches. are parts available for this motor/trans combo in the states? i've worked on EA82, ER27 and EJ22's, that's it. i don't know anything about these JDM EJ20DETT motors. were they offered in the states? what came with 2.0 liter motors? are there any parts i wouldn't be able to source being from japan? what are the issues with installing this in an XT6? crossmember and drive shafts wouldn't be a problem for me. custom cv axles doesn't seem like a big deal. what about getting the dash to work with this set up? probably loose my speed sensitive power steering. are these reliable motors...like the EJ22?

the break-in period is legit, should be followed and is common in other makes. it's not a subaru-only practice.

cool, just curious since i'm unfamiliar with this kind of internal block stuff, not trying to scare anyone or make a problem out of nothing.

would noone be concerned about where those pieces went? through the oil supply, stuck in a crank bearing somewhere? i'm not saying that would happen, just that i don't know. but if pieces are missing that is strange.

these additives will work on dirty or seized HLA's (hydraulic valve lash adjustors). if dirty or sticking HLA's are causing your valve train noise then this may work. if the HLA's are not functioning properly due to air bubbles in the oil supply (bad oil pump gasket or seal) then these additives will do nothing. changing oil or viscosity can change the ticking and might seem like a good fix but if a seal or gasket is leaking it's only a temporary band aid. that is why these additives work for some and don't for others. typically the oil pump seals/gaskets need to be replaced to maintain good oil supply to the HLA's. air in the oil won't allow the HLA's to pump up properly because air is compressible and oil is not. this causes the HLA's to not pump up properly and the resulting noise. if additives don't do it for you then it's likely the oil pump needs attention. in my experience the oil pump seals are more problematic than anything else.

be observant on the coolant sensors as normally as vehicles age the problem isn't the sensor, but the contacts of the sensor. the plug/wiring harness connector and the sensor develop corrossion and that causes intermittent and poor contact causing the come-and-go aspect of the associated problem. changing the sensor will often alleviate the problem....but it'll come back because the real problem wasn't addressed. be sure the wiring harness and contacts are all clean on the sensor AND the wiring harness side that plugs into the sensor. they can be really annoying to clean. i eventually just cut the harness and soldered it to the sensor so i don't have that problem anymore. i've drive a few soobs over 200,000 miles and never had to replace the sensors, just clean the contacts. when cars don't start people typically think fuel or exhaust is clogged....those are very rare in my experience. i don't think i can count how many people come to me and say "gary, my car won't start and i think it's the fuel pump or the converter is clogged". maybe those used to be common problems on older cars or something and that's some relic diagnosis but i've yet to find any of those problems on my 12 subarus (a few of which over 200,000 miles) and the dozens of friends cars i've worked on. my point in all of this is that when someone mentions the fuel or exhaust they probably don't know what they're talking about. no offense to those who have had these problems but i've worked on alot more cars than just my own and hate to see you guys get inaccurate information and think something is worse with your car.

with the way 2.5's blow headgaskets i'd be careful about swapping. make sure what you're getting, what warranty you have, if it's tested if it's gauranteed to run and what year it is. depends what you want. with turbo/nitrous and $ you can do alot with the motor. if you want to keep it N/A i wouldn't expect a ton unless you want to get into high end head and block work. i'd personally keep the EJ22 platform and look for a turbo, swap a turbo motor in it.

order the parts from http://www.thepartsbin.com instead of your local auto parts place if you want a great price. you do not need a new oil pump. the oil pump has a gasket and a seal and the 4 cylinders have an o-ring on them as well. if it's leaking then it's obvious one of these seals is compromised. that's about 20 dollars in parts as opposed to over a hundred for an oil pump. do not replace the gasket and not the seal...replace all the seals on the oil pump. technically you need a dab of anaerobic sealant (two dabs actually) on the oil pump. get that stuff at NAPA. it's expensive though, so if you want cheaper sealant use permatex grey but that's not what you're *supposed* to use. i use the anaerobic sealant. that being said - it is VERY possible this leak could be coming from the crank seal unless the mechanic really got a good look at it. it can be difficult to determine whether the crank seal or oil pump is leaking. if i were you i'd replace the crank seal as well or at least be prepared to replace it while you have everything off. the chiltons will help but is limited and could be wrong. the XT6 chiltons manual i believe has the wrong procedure for lining up the cam sprockets but that's a long time ago as i don't ever use that book. you can find everything you need to know from this board. the tensioners don't need to be replaced. this motor is non-interference so there is no chance of engine damage if something breaks. that being said, it's not a bad idea to replace them as the bearings can go bad. on the 4 cylinders i would personally replace them since they are so inexpensive new. but i wouldn't call that a necessary item. timing belts, water pump, oil pump, cam seals and crank seal should all be done. it's not an easy job for someone that's never done it, but it's not that hard either and it can be done a couple hours. you're getting quotes of 900 dollars because it is a decent amount of labor and not something many people do. but it's not that bad either. no special tools required. although a large breaker bar will likely be needed for getting the crank pulley off. lots of PB Blaster or Liquid Wrench will be needed for rusty bolts, those are likely the biggest pain and time consuming part of the deal. don't use WD-40 as some do, get the real stuff it works. if you spend 200 in parts you stand to save 700 dollars! sounds like a deal to me! i'm tempted to offer to do it for 500 and drive to maine. wanted to visit baxter mountain anyway! just kidding...for real there should be plenty of info on this group to get the job done.