idosubaru

so there are 3.7 ratio manual transmissions out there? thanks pat, i'll do some searching and maybe start another thread. a 3.7 ratio will will get better gas mileage than a 3.9 right? getting a 3.7 manual would be the best way to go. after reading up on trans differences there's no way swapping the auto diff into the manual would be possible.

XT6 automatic transmission 4EAT AWD - 3.7 gear ratio XT Turbo Manual transmission FT4WD - 3.9 gear ratio I'd like to have the manual transmission with a 3.7 gear ratio output like the automatics. Will the front diff of the 4EAT swap into the XT Turbo manual FT4WD trans. how could i find out, what would i be looking for if i took the trans apart?

depends how much power you're after. the Xt6 isn't a good candidate for a turbo, but the easiest and cheapest way would be to install a turbo on your XT6 and run it at low boost.....5-7 psi is probably the most you can get without needing any kind of controller or reach the limit of the fuel system. combined with a high end tune up, light weight crank pulley and intake/exhaust mods like kevin mentioned and you'll be adding good power. but you are limited by the computer and fuel system, that's why i say 5-7 psi max. but the good thing is that it would only cost you a turbo, exhaust and intake work and a good tune up which you would want no matter what engine you're getting. there is no after market exhaust/intake for the XT6, but installing any other motor is going to require custom work anyway so that's a wash. if you're doing the intake/exhaust work yourself then you'd basically only need the turbo and associated parts (BOV...etc). a 2.2 turbo or other alternative is the way to go if you want lots more power and a real screamer. but that's expensive, requires installation (more $) and custom work as it won't work with the stock ECU, so you'll need the 2.2 computer and wiring harness as well. and if you have an auto trans i don't know how the wiring harness will swap over as the auto trans uses input from the 2.7 liter sensors...TPS at least. it's definitely possible, definitely a good option, probably a light motor but sounds like it doesn't have the cost advantage you're looking for.

what is the EGR valve and why doesn't the XT6 have one? exhaust gas recirculation, i think that's what it stands for but i don't know what it does. it's connected to the intake? so if i didn't install it on mine, how would i block the hole?

there are others in australia that have done it so there must be some incentive to do so. there are some good threads already posted on the subject on this board. try searching all the forums, i've read up on most of the existing threads, some really good info already here.

wire order seems right.

i just found out from a guru at xt6.net that the rear hubs don't require removing anything. apparently after the cv is off and the "axle" nut is off it just slides out (with some coaxing of course). looked like one big assembly to me. but the great thing about this is that i found out torches are cheap and i need bigger impact wrenches.

i don't think the "confused computer" theory has much chance of being right. i know a couple people that drive soobs on sand with no problems. i've driven in all sorts of mud, snow, ice, burried, stuck, crazy hills and corn stalks...etc in manual and auto AWD with no problems. don't know where to begin on this one.

buddy has a torch, used it once before and a troubled bolt came off in about 2 seconds. but i personally don't own a torch. not sure what my impact wrench is rated, should probalby check that. i was wondering how they rated them. just picked up a compressor/tools this summer so im' still learning the ropes. i've been using 1/2" drives, i just had to use a 3/8" to get to one of the bolts. it sheared right off. don't think i've torqued on a nut yet....been doing everything on the head side of the bolt so i'm good there. thanks,

i can try a nut breaker or just drill out the three bolts. the other one towards the center of the car has very limited access, doubt i'll be getting bulky tools in there.

i'm trying to remove my hubs on the rear of my AWD XT6 parts car. i don't know what any of these parts are called....but it doesn't much matter almost none of the bolts will come off. twisted off a 3/8 extension. squirted over and over with liquid wrench and they do not move at all even with a couple foot breaker bar. hit them with my air/impact wrench and it just sat there impacting and none of the bolts would move. there are three bolts on the arm going up towards the front of the car and none will move. the part they are bolted to bolts to the car with one bolt and it doesn't budge. the arm going from the hub to the center of the car won't budge either and access is very difficult. there isn't really that much rust...i mean it's there but i've seen much worse. some don't really have much rust at all. there aren't many bolts to get this thing off but DUDE is this annoying.

excellent work. that's freaking awesome. in the past i've read all the posts on here about windshield installations....very few people attempt this, nice work. sounds like you took excellent precautions for heating the adhesive.

did you go over the wire connections on the cap? sounds like your wires are switched up to me.

i would double and triple check the wires are properly hooked up. front passengers side plug is #1 - #3 is behind that. front drivers side plug is #2, behind that (closest to the distributor) is #4. check for spark out of each plug coming from the distributor cap. in my experience the TPS can affect starting as i've had one cut off before while adjusting the TPS "by ear". the factory service manual for adjusting the TPS to spec is not right, so you have to do it by ear. basically if you turn the TPS all the way one direction i think (it's been a while though), i think it will idle high. keep backing the TPS down and it will gradually lower the RPM....keep turning it slowly until it's just about to cutoff, then nudge it up just a pinch. OR - alternately if you bumped your existing TPS - just look for the marks on the throttle body....you should be able to see orginal dust/dirty lines from where the TPS sat installed for years. that should get you close enough. the coolant temp sensor can keep it from starting too. the sensors almost never go bad (i've never heard of a confirmed instance of one going bad, though people replace them all the time). it's the connections getting corroded that causes the problem. replacing the sensor gives you new contacts, but that is only half the problem....the connector that plugs into the sensor would also be corroded and dirty if that was the original problem. that being said - check that connection and make sure the contacts (sensor side AND wiring harness side) are clean. this probably is not your problem, unless you're seeing a Check Engine light. although i had one instance about 10 years ago of a coolant temp sensor connection causing a no start without any CE light for some reason.

easy outs suck. if an easy out works on something then it probably would have came out with vice grips or some creative means. whatever you do, don't use an impact method if you really want to take the risk of using one of these. they are very strong, but they are also brittle....think like a concrete block, it can hold tons, but will break if dropped from a very small distance. easy outs are similar in my experience. maybe you can find some that are made with better materials, but the ones i've used from craftsman, sears, and local shops have broken a number of times. and being hard, they don't come out very easy and usually break off with not much material to work with. use a left handed drill bit. they work better than easy outs and don't BREAK OFF. when you deeply imbed an easy out into something it often results in 4 letter words and such.

i've driven an AWD soob in FWD for extended periods of time and experienced no gains in gas mileage. i think the only way you *might*, and this im doubtful of, but the only way i could see you noticing a difference is with more city driving than highway driving...which she wasn't doing much city driving if she got 30 mpg. an AWD running in FWD mode is not like a FWD trans. i didn't design the thing, but the internals of the AWD are still present and there will be more internal resistance than a FWD. and the AWD weighs considerably more as well....heavier transmission, rear drive shaft, rear differential, rear axles, heavier rear hubs, sometimes other things are beafier as well....control arms, struts etc. installing that fuse will make little difference. a FWD auto XT6 can get close to 35 mpg. an AWD XT6 can't get more than 28 mpg stock. i ran my manual AWD XT6 in FWD mode with the rear driveshaft removed and experienced no highway mileage gains. i'm confident of these results as i drove 40,000 miles per year or more during that time and had very consistent stretches of roads to compare. maybe newer trans are different, but that's been my experience.

would it not be easier to just swap the hubs instead of pressing the bearings in and out? front hubs are typically easy to remove assuming the rust on the bolts isn't too bad, it's only a few bolts. heck you could probably even just leave the cv axle attached to it and swap that as well without removing the axle nut.

300 is ludicrous. seal kits should run much cheaper than that. word on the street is that Fel-Pro makes a gasket for the EA82 that you don't need to retorque...saves lots of time. finish the job and drive. no need to get back in the motor again for a retorque. ebay has EA82 python injectors for cheap....i'll probably send mine off unless i find good info on these python guys. definitely replace your throwout and pilot bearings while you're in there. someone on the New Generation Subaru board a few months ago had a mechanic take the motor out and had one of those bearings fail very soon after getting everything back together and was quite pissed about the whole thing. it's cheap, replace it. new/rebuilt HLA's from mitzpah engineering are a good idea as well. like 5 bucks a piece, you can't beat it. you can try to reseal the oil pump and probably be fine but if you really want this car to go another 150,000 then i'd go for a new pump. definitely water pump, timing belts and i'm doing the same thing to my EA82...i'm buying all new timing belt tensioners (http://www.thepartsbin.com has them for 20-30 bucks each). these pullies fail quite often, the bearings seize up and overheat the timing belt and it breaks. you can also replace the bearings on your existing pullies, but sourcing the bearings and pressing them out/in is an annoying process that requires some research and work. if you can press them yourself then that would be nice.

the 4EAT on the XT6 gets the same highway mileage as the AWD manual trans in the XT6. technically i've actually gotten better in my AWD auto than any manuals and i've owned like 10 XT6's. best auto AWD highway mileage was 28.5...never quite gotten to 28 on the manuals...upper 27 range. the reason you wonder...the manuals are geared lower. at 75 the auto is doing 3,000 rpm's while the manual is pushing 4,000. these are really rough numbers, but you get the point. i find it annoying too....going 80 the motor is loud on the manual because the RPM's are so high. manuals have 3.9 gear ratio and the auto's have 3.7. this is all XT6 specific numbers and info.

yes, it's from a turbo XT. i might be willing to trade. i don't know much about EA82's, so i'll wait until i pull the motor and pick up this new block this weekend and see what is what. i'm used to the ER27, there are no differences to contemplate. can you just remove the EGR without any consequences? is there a benefit to doing that? the NA manifold you have will bolt right up to any EA82 block and turbo heads just fine? that thermal efficiency talk is giving me a headache. thermodynamics is annoying.

shat this gets confusing. compression...then turbo/non-turbo cams. someone else mentioned they thought the turbo cams installed on the NA block would offer better gas mileage. i'm just looking for gas mileage. i guess that's a weird request so that's why i'm getting conflicting information. i can always try more than one set up. the NA cams definitely work with the NA block so i guess there's no reason to try the turbo cams on an NA block built for gas mileage. anyone know if they are definitely different? NA block (start with carbed block, switch to SPFI if i don't like the mpg) NA cams turbo heads spider intake thanks kids, this will be fun. hoping to pick the block up this weekend and get started next week.

if you're doing anything engine related like that then pulling the engine will make that much easier and cleaner too. as a matter of fact if the cam case is leaking at all (particularly that o-ring at the corner) then now is a great time to reseal that as well since you can put it on a stand or put the motor on it's side to keep the rocker arms from falling off. doing that in the car is possible but most people find it really annoying as you can't keep the rocker arms on without a glob of grease. then if you bump them while install the cam case they fall off and you start all over. out of the engine this job is much easier. and that lower corner o-ring gets old and is very important for good oil supply as well and only costs 2.13. the cam case sealant is in a tube, so no expensive gasket/sealant their either. but you'll know more once you get a good look. i like http://www.thepartsbin.com for good prices.

pulling the engine is the general consensus. few (if any) will say to pull the transmission. just for rambling..... if it were a speed contest i could have a transmission out before anyone could pull an engine (unless they're allowed to cut wires and hoses and cables...which you're not going to do if you still want to drive the car). transmission come out easier in my oppinion, but that doesn't make it the best way to do it....they go back in trickier. working from underneath the car is so annoying compared to pulling an engine above the hood.....much more annoying to do it that way though so in the end i say go for pulling the engine if you can. transmission comes out super quick, less hoses, electronics and such to deal with....but i've always done the XT6 six cylinder so the engine is stuffed in and less room to work with too so that makes it a tad harder i suppose. only way i'd do it from underneath is if i was swapping auto trans and time was critical. for a clutch swap time shouldn't be critical because you have alot of work to do and should be getting the flywheel turned. you can always pull the motor and trans as an assembly too, done that before. pull them both out, assemble it all on the floor or workbench and install it all back in together if you have an engine lift.

i'd check the cam sprockets again, seeing the marks on them is the best way to do this. t-belts have to be exact, i don't see that happening using the TDC method....i have the FSM and know what it says, but you need to find those cam marks. did you install the cams backwards or something? do you know what the marks look like, they are smallish.

the cheap fix is picking up a used one from a JY. but they already have miles and age on them. i had like 3 go bad in a year or two, all used units. very annoying, but i do drive alot of miles. i had all my ujoints replaced with serviceable (grease fittings) and replaceable ujoints. have to cut the olds ones out and do a little work to get the new ones in, but it is possible. Rockford makes direct replacements for your staked in OEM ujoints. their website lists part numbers for your make/model. i purchased my ujoints from http://www.staugustinefwd.com/, but i think their prices have gone up a bit since i bought mine. if you go one piece then you'll only need 2 instead of 3.