idosubaru

i've owned like a dozen and have 6 or so right now...so the answer to your question is "yes".

that's one bad A set up scott. nice job!

synthetic oil should be fine so long as it's the proper weight. might not be a bad idea to change it out. but i hate to tell you to drain such expensive fluid. often people change tranny fluids if the trans is making noise so i'd guess the trans started making this noise and the owner either knew it himself or talked to someone who told him to change the fluid to see if that would help. i would guess that the noise was there before the fluid is more likely than the fluid causing the noise. unless of course the wrong weight was used.

depends on the store too. go to NAPA and ask for an XT6 distributor cap. it'll have 4 plug wires on it. ha ha. that was like 5 years ago, maybe they have it right by now. taking in the old part is the preferred method in my oppinion as well. i also like to watch them go through the screen selection process. sometimes it's easy to read the wrong line or number or click wrong.

have you considered an EA82T? with minor intercooler upgrades you're looking at the same or more output than the ER27 and it's smaller, easier to work with and would fit better. on your ER27 swap definitely use an ER27 wiring harness, splicing into another harness would be horrific, if possible. if you want power steering you'll need a power steering pump as the ER27 wasn't a belt driven pump.

the older soob trans are pretty darn tough and i'd expect the transmission to outlive the rust and motor if maintained properly and driven lightly (offroad, towing and such are good causes for early failure). that it sounds louder in first may not mean much. at higher gears there is more road, wind and other noises to muffle the sound.

does it have a hotwire MAF? check the wires of the MAF that reside in the air flow. they are very very very thin and difficult to see, can really only see them if you remove the sensor. if one of the hair thin wires breaks then you'll have problems just like you're mentioning. or swap in a known good unit. battery/charging nice and tight? funny bantering back and forth on two different sites huh matt? if i weren't at work i'd just call!

start just recently - maybe bad gas or water in the gas?

i've never had ticking issues when i install HLA's so i don't think it's related to the position in the bore. unless every time i've installed them it's been right. every ticking issue i've had has been related to the HLA or the oil pump or maybe something that got worked out when i ran ATF or MMO through the engine. no ticking on mine when i get done. are you discussing this because you have a persistent ticking problem that won't go away?

i'd start with a pressure washer if i had one. using cleaners takes forever, that's how i did two of mine.

awesome, thanks pat. this vehicle has the spyder intake, does that means it's MPFI? or could it still be SPFI?

accoring to kevin the NA and Turbo injectors are different. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=35326&highlight=truth+about+turbo how would the ECU handle the larger injectors if used on an NA car? maybe i'll need NA injectors?

so i can use the turbo heads on an NA block. but i'll need to plug the extra fittings? what about the injectors, don't they differ between NA and turbo or will the turbo injectors work fine? plans now: rebuild the turbo motor with NA pistons. need NA pistons, exhaust and intake. i can make the exhaust and intake and i already have pistons. thanks!

looking at picking up an 87.5 XT Turbo. i'd like to put an NA EA82 in it's place. that's right, the opposite of what most people want to do. manual trans fulltime 4WD. *** EDIT *** looks like the ECU and wiring harness will work, no swap needed on that. can i reuse anything when i rebuild it? can i keep the turbo block, heads, intake manifold, injectors?

due to characteristics, advance the ignition timing higher than typical stock settings and you should get some power back. that site i just posted right above your post has details about advancing the timing.

here's some good info on how to do it and what's required (scroll past all the stuff on top): http://www.wps.com/LPG/lpg-how-to-book.html

you shouldn't have any problems fixing these bolts holes. heli-coil the cam carrier bolts, probably your best option. you're in luck on the bolts holding the cam seal. i'm almost positive the actual holes for those bolts are deeper than the stock bolts. i know they are deeper on the XT6 ER27 becuase i've done this before. the EA82 cam cap is almost identical, i think it just has one oil port instead of two...but basically identical...anyway the cam towers are different so who knows, but i bet the holes are deeper. so find some longer bolts that will grab the untouched and good threads at the bottom. gotta find one not too long but not too short. an easy way is to get bolts too long with the right thread pattern and cut it the length you want it. then you'd have to clean the threads up with a die. doesn't take too long. i have zillions of bolts lying around and have used this "longer bolt" trick on cam seal caps, timing tensioners, cam pulleys.....works all the time and if i get good torque i go with it, if not i helicoil it. more often than not i'm not using my helicoil inserts and that's cool because finding a longer bolt takes about 23 seconds usually and i'm on my way. you could try this trick on the cam carrier bolts as well, try installing the stock bolts into the heads without the cam case on it to see if they'll go any deeper and find good thread. if this works then you'll just need to find a longer bolt with the same thread pattern. if so then you won't have to get a 30-50 dollar helicoil kit and start drilling. though it's not that hard at all either. that being said if one of the top cam carrier bolts was stripped i wouldn't worry that much about it as the cam never leaks from the top. but you definitely want good clamping force across the entire thing and do it right.

can you convert a FI soob to LPG? none of the sites i can find show what you actually need to do. are FI conversions possible?

will this clunk happen at contant speed or under accleration or braking?? or literally any time? transmission, engine and rear diff mounts can cause clunks, though i would expect them to be fairly consistent. these should cause more noise when acclerating and not when holding a constant speed so you should be able to rule them out (or in). if the pads are causing it, it's not because they aren't subaru pads. you could try swapping pads or having somewhere check to make sure they fit correctly and have the proper hardware (clips and such) on them to prevent them from moving inside the calipers. in this case there is no worry of failure or cause for alarm though so no need to sweat your brake system. if anyone gets near the brakes while yo'ure looking into this they could try tightening up the caliper mounting bolts, greasing the caliper slide and replacing the pads (they are cheap, though paying someone to do it is not). you could have your ujoints inspected if you're not getting anywhere on this. the proper way to check a ujoint is to remove the entire driveshaft to see how tight or lumpy the ujoints are. driveshafts typically come off by removing about 6 bolts so it's very easy to do. you should experience vibration with a bad ujoint so this doesn't sound like a good option, but it's something to check. a bad strut as well like mentioned earlier.

it is either air in the cooling system or one of the fans is not plugged in. likely a huge oversight. a proper test drive would have prevented this.

and/or find a picture of one and get specs like gear ratios.

ford probes were offered as all wheel drive? i didn't know that. the 4EAT subaru trans is AWD. never heard about compatability.

i know someone with a paddle shifter for his turbocharged XT6. i have spoke with him some. he speaks little about the paddleshifter or turbocharged XT6. he did mention he controls duty solenoid C to vary his AWD characteristics and helped me some when i spliced into the duty solenoid C wiring to *lock* and *unlock* the transfer clutches on the 4EAT. he's included the paddleshifter capability with this controller. he doesn't share much technical information, he tests concepts for a company. he is also building his own car. by this i mean he is actually fabricating the entire frame and everything himself. he sent me info and a website showing his plans to be able to make parts from a home foundry. i was surprised to know this was even possible i've heard of some awesome projects, some on this group being the neatest, but this guy is over the top. he plans on being done in 5 years i think. he doesn't document, post pictures or share details which would certainly be interesting to see. as for the paint job...AWESOME! the irony is that we had this discussion this week at work before i even saw this thread. it was regarding the state flags that have the confederate flag on them. i'm of the same views subarubrat just noted. why do people put me in a box with 150 year old views just because i say i don't care that the flag is on there and that people shouldn't politicize something that is only relevant to the extremists today? i didn't even think about politics or being offended when i saw the picture.....i was wondering if he would eventually weld the doors shut, turn on waylon and jump dirt mounds.

it's a compressor. typically a belt drive by your crank puelly (just like your a/c or alternator) turns the compressor. so the crank driven work does the compressing as opposed to the exhaust gas driven turbine of a turbo. belt turns the compressor (supercharger), which compresses the air. air comes in your intake, supercharger compresses it then it goes into your throttle body/intake manifold. of course there are sensors and intercoolers (hopefully) in between.

one of the most important things to replace - there's an o-ring at the corner of the cam carrier that is metal reinforced. http://www.thepartsbin.com is the only place other than Subaru i've seen that you can get this part. it's only like 2.13 from the dealer...steep for an o-ring but you only need two of them. Subaru part number: 13089AA010 (same one that's on the EA82 - so the dealer usually has them in stock every time i've been there to pick them up). if you're doing all this work and planning on another 100,000 miles then there is no reason to leave the stock oil pump on there. order a new one (it'll have all new gaskets, seals and pressure sender as well..good stuff) from http://1stsubaruparts.com/ for 143 dollars and some change. of course you'll want to tackle all the cam seals, crank seals, valve stem seals (included in the head job), fuel injector seals, water pump...etc. you'll likely want to get a complete head gasket set so you get all the associated parts you need. the FelPro set is nice just because it has those weird clip-on oil port o-rings that cost like 15 bucks a piece from subaru...and there are 6 of them so you're talking 90 bucks for a couple orings. They are included in the Felpro sets i've gotten but not the Corteco sets. it's almost worth buying the felpro set for all the other gaskets/seals even if you buy Subaru head gaskets (which some people recommend). fel pro set can be had for $150 and includes fuel injector seals, those goofy clip ons that i just mentioned, intake and exhaust gaskets, intake and exhaust valve seals (which you'll need for your heads) and more. so that set is worth it even if you don't use the head gaskets which you can probably sell to someone else for a few dollars. Subaru head gaskets alone run 26.00 (at least that's what i bought them for)...each dealer has different pricing. that 1stsubaruparts i mentioned earlier probably has good pricing on the gaskets though i've never priced them there. there's an awesome aluminum head specialist in my town that does tons of heads, including a good amount of experience with EA82 heads which are basically the same as the XT6. they do a fine job and properly repair all the cracks between the valve seats you see on almost every EA82 and ER27. could probably work something out shipping the heads to me and i'll take them in and work the deal for you, these guys are really good. they ported, polished, resurfaced, cleaned, complete valve job, repaired all the cracks between the valve seats on an EA82 for me for 503.00, not a bad price for all that porting and polishing. i've had them do my XT6 heads, but can't remember the cost. they aren't particularly cheap but have lots of experience with these heads and do a great job, so i'll pay average price for that kind of service. i used to have heads rebuilt at a locally respected high priced place in town that's been around 30 years and they never mentioned the valve seat cracks. i don't go there anymore. not that i think they're bad but i like this aluminum head specialty guys alot. oil pan gasket. get it right, it's tricky to keep it from leaking again if the bolt holds on the oil pan aren't flat. it won't seat the new gasket very well. you can try leveling the pan out....annoying....or covering gasket with a gasket maker. there are some engine reseal, parts list and gasket replacement threads on http://www.xt6.net so search around there for lots of information on different head sets....corteco, Felpro and Subaru OEM options. scott (gravityman here) is having custom made copper gaskets i believe and he's getting them for a reasonable cost. he posted more info at http://www.xt6.net and maybe he'll see this thread here.