idosubaru

different vehicles respond better than others. Kevin (myphalyx, active on this board) did some extensive testing of differnt intake set ups. on the XT6 model he experienced gains with the K&N cone style filter exposed to the engine air over the more isolated stock set up. you could search the older model forums or http://www.xt6.net for his testing and dyno plots for the proof. that was debated for quite some time and his testing pretty much shows what works best. he tried a couple different set ups but my memory won't allow me to comment at the moment...can't recall the exact differences and results.

ha, i'll fire everyone up. i've driven on TWO on the front. and three for 240 miles from Charlotte, NC to Atlanta, GA. i've also driven with 4 for YEARS including off roading, 4 wheeling, towing, snow, mud...you name it. i don't recommend it, but i never had a problem with it. 4 studs sheared off on I85 in charlotte NC all at the same time. hmmm bad luck. so i wobbled to a closed gas station at 1am. i knew i couldn't make it to atlanta on one lug nut going 70/80 mph. so i searched and searched for a bolt that would work...bingo the brake caliper mounting bolts on an XT6 are the same thread and pitch as the wheel studs. so i cranked the remaining caliper mounting bolt nice and tight after scaveging one from each side to use on the wheel. they are very short compared to the studs and don't have to be pressed in as the shaft isn't fat at the head. so i had to hold the bolt in place with one hand to get the nut started and pull the wheel tight to the hub. continued on my way to atlanta and replaced them with new studs the next day. worked perfectly. banged all those studs out with a hammer and still drive that car to this day. rebuilt the entire front suspension and replaced the front bearings while i had it all apart they were good and tight. that's with lots of off road miles and such as well. all this to say knocking the studs out did'nt damage my bearings.

the cap does come off. slides out. if it doesn't want to come out, just twist it gently back and forth and it'll eventually come out. i believe the seal is retained in the cap as well. replace both the seal and the o-ring if it has both.

i've "heard" they can run hotter if too much grease is packed into them. doesn't dissipate heat as well i believe is the theory. i have no proof or claim to know that as fact.

dont run long without an exhaust, it's not good for your valves. i meant to run it without the bolt in there to see if it drips from the bolt. without the exhaust on is an option, just don't run it long and drive it around that way, but good to test.

and travel light. i think the forrester is heavy, not a good thing for what you're trying to do. wider tires would definitley be a plus. you can buy one size wider tires and they will fit your stock rims if you're really into doing this. less psi per contact area of tire helps plane the car out over the sand. but it does the same on water too so you'd loose a little bit of wet road performance..mostly on standing water and snow.

there's some confusion becuase he mentioned that he used RTV for water pumps before, but that was just commentary. his real question refers to the oil pump.

i'm confused as i definitely just replaced the crank seal and an oring on my 2.2 liter oil pump. i still have the parts receipt from the dealer. i'm not sure which is which as i purchased crank, cam and oil pump seals. i can rule out the cam seals by quantity number, the rest just say "oil seal or o-ring" here are the part numbers and descriptions: 806742110 Oil Seal 806733030 Oil Seal 10991AA000 O-Ring one of those could be an XT6 part as well.... do not use RTV to seal the oil pump. use anaerobic sealant only. oil supply is not something to mess with, it's not worth it. yes RTV can work, but it's not the best choice. anaeorbic sealant will not dry so long as it's exposed to air. when you put it on, only the sealant that is clamped between the block and pump will dry. the rest remaining internally that gets squised out will remain solvent and wash away with any oil. RTV dries and becomes hazardous to the engine, but it will work.

i see hundreds of posts...but i think it was paul, user name kacerdias at www.xt6.net that had clutch issues like this and it turned out to be bushings. i'd at least post there if you don't want to search.

this is really crazy because there are chevy cavalier rotors that will work on an XT6!!!! that's nuts if it's true on another soob.

i'd take a picture of your seat from the 1993 subaru you bought and show the perfectly good drivers seat after 11 years of ownership if they question anything.

put some sealant....sure-tac or something, cant' recall what it's called. something made for water pump type gaskets. no need to slop it on. the sealant will help keep the gasket in place as well and keep it from folding over or mis-aligning. water pump bolts can be very dirty and caked with oil, dirt, old sealant...etc so i'd make sure they and the bolts holes are clean and torque them down to the specs. that could very well be your issue. i have bought aftermarket water pump gasket individually before. www.thepartsbin.com i believe sells them for some applications.

pretty sure someone had this problem at www.xt6.net if you want to search there or post. if you search click on the button for "search all terms" or you'll get more returns than you want to sift through. okay this is from memory but alot goes in my brain so i'm iffy on the accuracy - i believe it was some kind of bushings. and a mechanic won't take note of the bushings usually because he's just concerned about installing the end linkage to the trans, not much between the trans and interior that he cares about.

if that bolt hole is really leaking coolant (which i'm suspicious of, i'd double check everything) then i'd guess someone helicoiled those threads because they were stripped and hit a water coolant passage in the head while drilling. i would double check everything and verify it is really leaking from that hole, sounds very odd. did you try starting the car with that bolt removed to see if coolant would visibly drip out of the hole? i would suspect the leak is really originating elsewhere and ends up channeling to that bolt.

for now i'd just let it ride and assume it was mis-aligned from the factory. but it does sounds weird to me. an independent shop could have told you why it was out of alignment. a dealer only has something to loose by being honest with you. for instance...suppose it was a greater issue....the dealer would like you to find out this greater issue after the warranty expires. but then again i trust noone unless they earn it. i never get alignments unless they are needed or something drastic happens to the vehicle. a knowledgeable person who has nothing to gain will tell you that alignments are rarely necessary and certainly overkill with every set of new tires. if the old tire wore perfectly even for 30,000 miles it's really silly to think the new ones are all of a sudden going to get ruined in the first 10,000 miles of service on an average daily driver????? even potholes are no match for alignments unless you slam them hard and "slam them hard" is much harder than most people think since it's really an ambiguos term. i've driven 100,000 miles each on two XT6's without EVER getting an alignment even with new tires. i'll drive my 220,000 mile XT6 to your house and show you the perfectly even wear. i even bent the front control arm four wheeling in snow and replaced it with a used unit about 70,000 miles ago and still never got an alignment. again, no issues. alignments are one of those things that people make money off of. if you pay attention to your tire wear...which should happen anyway on an AWD vehicle because you should be rotating the tires frequently you'll notice irregular wear before it becomes a problem and have the alignment checked without paying for it more often than needed. if you don't rotate your tires much or pay attention to them then get them aligned regularly. others will disagree and if you want to spend the extra money go right ahead as there is nothing wrong with getting an alignment whenever you feel like it, i for one will keep my 70 dollars and have tires last just as long as everyone else.

doubt the fan could actually cause any significant reduction in engine running termperatures. removing the thermostat would cause significant temperature reductions. even still i suspect the engine would last a long time assuming everything else was working properly even with the thermostat removed (though i do not recommend it and agree it's a very bad idea). just saying the engine wouldn't die immediately. it would be a prolonged state of decay more than impending failure. again - don't do it.

the XT6 radiator is even larger than your turbo radiator and i know a guy running your two core turbo radiator in place of the XT6 radiator in his XT6 in Hawaii with no problems. it's a smaller radiator and has smaller input/outputs and he said it never overheats so i'm assuming it's not your radiator. this is assuming your radiator isn't clogged at all.

if you run it for too many miles (like 100's even 1000's possibly) the head will be destroyed (or expensive to fix). the head will have a notch melted or warn into it where the leak is if you drive it while it's hot too much. best to keep it running as cool as possible (remove thermostat like mentioned above) to prevent permanent damage. the heat is bad for the oil and bearings as well. i've done a bunch of older model subaru head gaskets. it's a straight forward job, but it will require tools, time and experience is a very helpful attribute as well. a rebuilt or used motor might be a better option than a new (or used with unknown history) car.

what he said. there are caps that looked a tad different, but same specs and are interchangeable. and the caps aren't model dependent....maybe just changed with time or supplier or something. same part though.

first thing i'd check is the axle nut then the cv joint. did you install the axle washer facing the right direction?

if the boot is torn, maybe the half shaft is making the noise and your bearing is fine? need to inspect some more. if you still suspect the bearing, same question - was the bearing packed properly and the hub housing checked for abnormal wear. how bad was the previous bearing when it failed - it could have damaged where the bearings sit and toasted your new bearings. but packed properly seems they would have lasted longer. did you do it yourself? did you damage anything....i'll word it differently, did you pound or beat or use any tools over 10 pounds to remove the old bearings? trying to be funny....

here's one of my XT6's with a MAACO paint job that is very new. previous owner had it done. they blew right over some rust around the bottom, so the prep job wasn't perfect. cosmetically appealing at the moment. http://www.xt6.net/forum/viewtopic.php?t=1514&postdays=0&postorder=asc&start=270 it's the red one about half way down. file is too large to post here.

no they are not. pre 1997 are non-interference. 1997 and above are interference. i got this information from a subaru dealer mechanic who's been there for a number of years. he said he has seen some people bring in 2.2 liter motors with broken timing belts and has yet to see any of them that resulted in any damaged. he said the 2.5 motors routinely cause internal damage though.

don't know about yours, but every rear main seal i've replaced is bigger than the front crank seal.

the rebuilt engine runs perfectly normal temps. sorry it gets confusing, i have six XT6's (all listed in my sig). this issue was on a stock XT6 and the problem was the radiator(s).