idosubaru

no way, don't pull the motor. i don't pull the motor when replacing 6 cylinder head gaskets and they are much harder. it's nice to pull the motor if you have time, space, extra cars, etc but the 4 cylinders are really easy to do in the car. i've pulled a couple motors to reseal them but done more in the car as it's faster. it's possible to replace one head gasket, but it's a good idea to do both while you're in there as it's a fairly big job in terms of the timing belts, exhaust manifold, intake manifold, etc so nice to bust the other headgasket while it's all apart. outside of rusted or seized bolts the 4 cylinder head gaskets are really straight forward and not difficult. there are no tricks or special tools needed to do the headgasket with the motor in the car. basic mechanics tools is all you'll need. i find a 10mm wratcheting wrench most helpful on the valve cover bolts, but that's more of a problem on the 6 cylinder motors. if by "left side" you mean facing the motor, passengers side that is the easiest one to do if yo'ure only doing one as it requires only removing one timing belt. so if you just want to replace one and have good compression in the others then that's nice. if you have good compression still in the other then you're probably okay to leave it. 150 is good compression so that sounds good if you'd like to cut down on the time. don't forget to have the head milled (usually around 40-50 dollars) to get it true. and definitely replace your thermostat, radiator caps and make sure your radiator is in excellent shape so overheating isn't an issue down the road.

you won't save any gas. all the internal transmission components and extra weight are still there so installing the fuse won't do anything. i guess theoretically you might save 0.000003 gallons per tank of gas, but you won't realize any benefits. i've driven in FWD mode for a long time with no noticeable difference. (i know what i'm doing, i didn't just stick a fuse in it). get a manual transmission soob with diff lock and you can run in FWD mode if you wanted to.

why did you go from the underdriven pulley to a stock sized one?

faulty fuel injector? ignition coil? compression test? whatever sensors you have (MAF and TPS in particular) - trace the wiring by hand. start at the sensor with the car idling. wiggle the connector first and see if it does anyting with the engine idling. gradually work the wires to that sensor between your fingers and gently bend them around...keep working your way back as far as you can go. if you hit a bad spot in the wires the motor will jump, stall, idle high, or even idle correctly if it's bad....it will show itself. i've found two bad wires this way, one on a TPS and one on a MAF. both were about 4 inches from the sensor. replacing the wiring helped alot. it's an easy quick check for a real PITA problem. and the TPS issue never threw an engine code ever. the car started running bad and eventually wouldn't even start and still no codes. after lots of swapping of sensors i found the TPS wires to be faulty. be sure the throttle plate is opening/closing smoothly and completey. they can get stuck or sticky. gotta go, good luck with this one.

it's a good idea because sound is a terrible indicator of oil pressure. it won't work in the most critical situations. in slowly degrading situations tapping will start eventually and you can add or change oil or fix your seals. but if it's an instant blow out of a seal or oil pump gasket the block can very easily be destroyed (rods, bearings, seized...real bad) due to oil loss before the lifters make enough noise for you to catch it.

if the light is blinking it sounds like that connector should not be plugged in. if it's not plugged in and the CE light is not on, sounds like you don't have any problems. why are you bothering connecting and playing with things? are you troubleshooting some problem? autozone will tell you your codes for free.

the one on your website is underdriven (smaller than stock size). did you experience any low charging, power steering or a/c issues with the smaller pulley? the smaller crank pulley reduces the rpm's of these associated pulleys.

i think it's typically done at operating temperature and remove all the spark plugs (engine will turn easier) and hold the throttle plate open (eases air passage into the combustion chamber. then go to town.

you need a clutch. if you get annoyed at going through clutches, try an automatic. didn't realize until i got an automatic by chance that my clutch problems were really annoying with a manual. i won't go back now and spend much less time messing with trans issues. off roading in mud, snow, towing and myself burns clutches too often. i've saved lots of time and money with my auto.

anyone install an aluminum crank pulley on their 2.2? didn't find anything in a search, surely someone has tried these out. see them all over ebay, but i don't want one that's underdriven.

copy that, daydreamining comment noted on original post.

there is a guy who modified his 4EAT and built his own controller for it. he calls it a paddle shifter so he can adjust the shift points or shift manually. he can dial in power transfer and lock up the transfer clutches as well. some soob manual trans do have 50/50 split to the front and rear. off road, lock the diff. on road, don't lock it. what more do you want from the trans? just a steering sensitive transmission? you could probably use a steering sensor (or a generic sensor/switch) from an XT6 and modify the output to control the locking and unlocking of the center diff if you really wanted to. that would be much easier and cheaper than replacing gears in the transmission.

just installed my motor and i think the distributor is off (car barely idles, at best). i can find TDC no problem, but then where do i put the distributor (on an XT6)? i know it's supposed to point to cylinder #1, but since the distributor housing is movable, depending on where the housing is (the 10mm hold down bolts) there are a few places where the rotor will line up with the #1 on the cap.

you can always yank the trans with the motor, pull them both at the same time. makes things very easy. unbolting motor and trans, reinstallation is all very straightforward and easy access to everything that way. very nice for mating the motor trans during installation.

any wrx (except 2005) wheels will fit. the stock tire size should work fine.

sometimes with the brake caliper bolts, they are facing the opposite way and there's a tendency to turn the bolt the wrong way. i've never had one shear off on the many rusted and old subaru's i've come across, so i was wondering how it happened. if anyone else ever reads this thread definitely use the reverse drill bit. do not use an easy out or bolt extractor. they suck. they don't work very well and when they shear off (they are very strong but also very brittle and shear off very easily under power tool usage)....but they are very hard to get out once imbedded. just look at my fuel pump bolt.....i used an extractor on it years ago and it's still there. twice i've tried aggressively beating it out...just tried again this past week ironically enough.....it's still there.

does it feel like it's in gear and trying or just not doing anything? manual or automatic? automatic im guessing and FWD? if you violently yanked on the axles while removing maybe one or both of the stubs in the transmission (that the axles slide onto) came out of place? doubtful, but weird problems lend themselves to wierd situations.

if your car has a MAF (the hot wire type), then remove it and have a look at it. (it only takes a couple 10mm bolts to remove on the XT6, the XT can't be terrribly different). remove the sensor and hold it up to some good lighting. look very closely for the wires passing through the MAF sensor, they are very very fine wires, like looking for a thin hair. should be 4 or 6 of them, can't remember, doesn't matter you're looking for just one that is broken and shriveled up. a broken wire in the MAF will cause exactly the problems you are indicating. likely wouldn't be intermittent though, would probably be all the time. check your water temperatur sensor. it SHOULD show an engine code, but i have seen them cause problems (including no start) without showing any engine codes. the water temperature sensor can be a very annoying issue and installing a new sensor lasts only a few months because the contacts remain dirty and corroded. i did a permanent fix on my XT6 and have never dealt with it again. here's what i did: http://www.xt6.net/forum/viewtopic.php?p=7341#7341 if that doesn't work, then in these circumstances it is best to pop the hood with the engine running and methodically go through the TPS and MAF wiring harnesses. the sensor may be fine but a short in the harness will cause issues. start at the sensor and gradually bend the wires (nothing severe, just enough to move them around and show any internal defects). start at the sensor and work your way back as far as you can. i've found 2 defective wires this way (both on XT6's).

my friends dad looked at ME funny when i wouldn't fill my XT6 up with kerosene and run it for a few seconds. said he used to do it all the time!?!?!?? i think he was sniffing kerosene.

you need a new torque converter seal, a couple dollars and you're good to go. on a side note, the 4EAT in an XT6 (simliar to your trans) has a ring seal as well on the torque converter shaft that i replace when pullling the torque converter. not sure if yours has one of these ring seals but keep an eye out for it when you pull the TC.

i wouldnt do it, but a guy i worked with knew some people running the muffler turbo's in camaro's or firebirds. he said they worked okay. oil supply and ATF cooler in the trunk should supply it okay. same with coolant.

tell us exactly what gaskets and seals you have replaced. my first guess is the valve cover gaskets. here's more information to bore you. are you positive there is no sign of oil leaks up front - by the oil pump or crank seal? it can leak and drip on the ground, then blow back at high speeds. how do you know it's not leaking below 70 mph? it's possible that at lower speeds it's just dripping on the ground and not blowing back and on the exhaust. unless you're positive it's not leaking at idle, i'd wipe everything off really good underneath and let it idle for awhile, keeping an eye on the valve cover, cam and head mating surfaces. the valve cover gaskets are the easiest and cheap fixes so i'd at least check if not just replace them while you got the covers off. very common oil leak areas. these are very simple to replace, i particularly like to attach them with a wratcheting 10mm wrench they really shine in this job. a cracked gasket is a sure sign of failure, but they can leak without being cracked. don't over tigthen new gaskets. other possibilities for rear engine oil leaks are cam carrier gasket (a bead of sealant), the head gasket (the head gaskets can definitely leak without mixing with the coolant or any coolant loss), or the rear main seals.

replace your rear pads. just did this a month ago on my friends explorer. brakes squeaking while coasting through parking lot, went away when they applied brake. pads were worn, no more noises.

there are turbo kits available for it. but the idiots that design it (the one i'm referring to anyway, there could be others) still think the XT6 has 8:1 compression pistons after i told them multiple times they do not.

isolate the crack and possible wetness inside the lamp and see if it quits doing it. sometimes cracks will fry the bulb, sometimes not.