idosubaru

saw them listed as the same part one place and different somewhere else.

we do care and are trying to help - one of the first replies to your question (from myphalx) told you to do a tune up - spark plugs, wires, cap, rotor. if you don't have spark then following this tip would have solved your problem 3 weeks ago. if it's related to one cylinder then likely you just need to replace the plug and wire to that cylinder (but best to do them all). if by "5 cylinders" you mean compression and not spark then it's an entirely different issue.

http://www.ramengines.com has the pistons i would use.

you can remove the a/c belt and spin the a/c pulley by hand. it should spin freely when the car is off. the bearings can seize. it will feel lumpy, sticky or maybe even impossible to turn if bad enough. you'll have to hear from others about vacuum issues.

check the clutch/bearings in the a/c pulley. if they aren't good they may load the system and cause the a/c to shut off. how is your idle? if the car isn't idling well the a/c may shut off to prevent further strain on the idling. i think there's a sensor that disengages the a/c compressor clutch if the rpm's get too low. and you're sure it's charged properly?

150 is right about spot on, that's very good actually. a cylinder or two that's 10 percent off the rest isn't that odd, yours sound good. didn't mean to deter you from pulling the motor, i do myself sometimes (just did the last one that way). didn't want you to feel you had to pull it. it's nice having it out and easy access to everything. only thing i don't like about pulling it is that it takes longer. for me, if it's one i'm taking my time on i pull the motor. if i need it up and running as soon as possible i do it in the car. having extra heads to install right away is nice, no need to wait for the milling or valve job. if you didn't even get into the red and shut it off you should be golden. no way i can promise anything but if it wasn't driven in the red i would be surprised if there was any engine damage.

a little searching can find transmissions in the 250-500 range (or even much cheaper if you're patient and keep the eyes open). but someone might pipe up here with an easier fix.

get a used hub. these cars are new enough that you can find a good used hub with low miles for 35 dollars easily and just swap hubs and forget about the bearings (that's something anyone can do with regular tools). call around local yards and get a rear hub. $35 or $300, sounds easy to me! lewiston idaho has about a dozen hubs at 35.00 each: 1800 967 5228 more in idaho at $35 each: 1800 331 9630 1208 678 7580 1800 999 9076 i think ABS and non-ABS hubs may be different, you'll have to find that out as im not sure, but whatever it is your hubs should be widely available.

you'll want to check your brake pads first. they can squeak with or without the brakes being depressed. remove wheel and look at the pads/wear indicator. doesn't require anything but removing the wheel, most of the time you can even check them without removing the wheel by turning the steering wheel or manuevering around in the right position. i removed my hubs, bought a set of wheel bearings (can't recall how much), gave the hubs and bearings to a machine shop and they installedl them for 100 bucks (50 bucks per side).

put new pads on. i wouldn't bother turning them unless you feel vibrations. i've had two 200,000 mile XT6's with the same rotors that were on the car when i got them at 75,000 and 105,000 miles. never had them turned and they never warped or vibrated. i replaced my front rotors on my XT6 at 220,000 miles last year eventhough they were fine, didn't vibrate and i never had them turned. one of the new ones i installed was warped!! go figure? be sure you're loosening the brake cylinder cap when pressing the piston in, the fluid pressure needs to bleed off somewhere or the master cylinder could fail. bleeding your brake fluid would be more beneficial than turnign your rotors in my oppinion.

thanks for the feedback all. i like solid pulleys better than harmonic balancers as the rubber ring can fail and i hate failure points. i'll take the minor vibrations. i'm hoping a PRO ECM pulley is well balanced. i know a few others running PRO ECM pulleys on other soobs and never heard them mention vibration issues.

don't buy those tornado or whatever gadgets. waste. do a search on them, others have asked about 'em. BS. they serve one purpose, to make money off of gullible people. you can speed up air flow at localized points, while slowing it down across other areas (do you think the speed is increased where the metal is....no it's stopped actually). by introducing restrictions in the air flow will offer you nothing possibly even losses. the rough finish in the intake ports in the heads induces adequate swirling effect for fuel/air mixture. when porting and polishing a head you don't polish or even try to smooth it out like you would the combustion side of the head and the exhaust. you can gain horsepower by machining your throttle body opening just 2 or 3 mm, RC Engineering does it, so by decreasing intake cross sectional area it's possible to decrease performance and these gadgets placed in mid stream of your intake do just that - decrease your cross sectional area/volume available for fluid transfer.

i'd continue to change it at least at recommended intervals, possibly more often. you should be fine. run some fuel injector cleaner through it. i like to run multiple bottles per tank, say two.

how do you know the valve seals are leaking? in general it shouldn't cause problems, depends how bad and why they are leaking.

no way, don't pull the motor. i don't pull the motor when replacing 6 cylinder head gaskets and they are much harder. it's nice to pull the motor if you have time, space, extra cars, etc but the 4 cylinders are really easy to do in the car. i've pulled a couple motors to reseal them but done more in the car as it's faster. it's possible to replace one head gasket, but it's a good idea to do both while you're in there as it's a fairly big job in terms of the timing belts, exhaust manifold, intake manifold, etc so nice to bust the other headgasket while it's all apart. outside of rusted or seized bolts the 4 cylinder head gaskets are really straight forward and not difficult. there are no tricks or special tools needed to do the headgasket with the motor in the car. basic mechanics tools is all you'll need. i find a 10mm wratcheting wrench most helpful on the valve cover bolts, but that's more of a problem on the 6 cylinder motors. if by "left side" you mean facing the motor, passengers side that is the easiest one to do if yo'ure only doing one as it requires only removing one timing belt. so if you just want to replace one and have good compression in the others then that's nice. if you have good compression still in the other then you're probably okay to leave it. 150 is good compression so that sounds good if you'd like to cut down on the time. don't forget to have the head milled (usually around 40-50 dollars) to get it true. and definitely replace your thermostat, radiator caps and make sure your radiator is in excellent shape so overheating isn't an issue down the road.

you won't save any gas. all the internal transmission components and extra weight are still there so installing the fuse won't do anything. i guess theoretically you might save 0.000003 gallons per tank of gas, but you won't realize any benefits. i've driven in FWD mode for a long time with no noticeable difference. (i know what i'm doing, i didn't just stick a fuse in it). get a manual transmission soob with diff lock and you can run in FWD mode if you wanted to.

why did you go from the underdriven pulley to a stock sized one?

faulty fuel injector? ignition coil? compression test? whatever sensors you have (MAF and TPS in particular) - trace the wiring by hand. start at the sensor with the car idling. wiggle the connector first and see if it does anyting with the engine idling. gradually work the wires to that sensor between your fingers and gently bend them around...keep working your way back as far as you can go. if you hit a bad spot in the wires the motor will jump, stall, idle high, or even idle correctly if it's bad....it will show itself. i've found two bad wires this way, one on a TPS and one on a MAF. both were about 4 inches from the sensor. replacing the wiring helped alot. it's an easy quick check for a real PITA problem. and the TPS issue never threw an engine code ever. the car started running bad and eventually wouldn't even start and still no codes. after lots of swapping of sensors i found the TPS wires to be faulty. be sure the throttle plate is opening/closing smoothly and completey. they can get stuck or sticky. gotta go, good luck with this one.

it's a good idea because sound is a terrible indicator of oil pressure. it won't work in the most critical situations. in slowly degrading situations tapping will start eventually and you can add or change oil or fix your seals. but if it's an instant blow out of a seal or oil pump gasket the block can very easily be destroyed (rods, bearings, seized...real bad) due to oil loss before the lifters make enough noise for you to catch it.

if the light is blinking it sounds like that connector should not be plugged in. if it's not plugged in and the CE light is not on, sounds like you don't have any problems. why are you bothering connecting and playing with things? are you troubleshooting some problem? autozone will tell you your codes for free.

the one on your website is underdriven (smaller than stock size). did you experience any low charging, power steering or a/c issues with the smaller pulley? the smaller crank pulley reduces the rpm's of these associated pulleys.

i think it's typically done at operating temperature and remove all the spark plugs (engine will turn easier) and hold the throttle plate open (eases air passage into the combustion chamber. then go to town.

you need a clutch. if you get annoyed at going through clutches, try an automatic. didn't realize until i got an automatic by chance that my clutch problems were really annoying with a manual. i won't go back now and spend much less time messing with trans issues. off roading in mud, snow, towing and myself burns clutches too often. i've saved lots of time and money with my auto.

anyone install an aluminum crank pulley on their 2.2? didn't find anything in a search, surely someone has tried these out. see them all over ebay, but i don't want one that's underdriven.

copy that, daydreamining comment noted on original post.