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2000 V8 jeep 7.64 seconds 2005 Hemi Jeep 7.00 seconds

don't know, never tested one. i replace them every so often and have never had one go bad.

does this thing have the center bearing support on the rear driveshaft? could the bearings in that support make all that noise? never seen it happen before but they are a big set of bearings and i've heard other bearings makes plenty of noise. does the sound increase with RPM or speed?

you can rotate the input shaft and count how many times one of the outputs (shaft or axle stub) rotates. or backwards, rotate the axle stub or output shaft and see how many times the input shaft rotates. rotate 10 times - a 3.7 will rotate 37 times and a 3.9 will rotate 39.

you said it was checked, did you verify it doesn't have too much refrigerant in the lines? this can cause your problems as well.

they are cheap and easy to replace so you could install a new one. and yes your t-stat could be causing this problem. not an issue now but if it is indeed your tstat then it could eventually end up in the closed position instead of open (causing no heat) and this would overheat your motor. not worth the risk in my oppinion. if you want to test it, pull it out (with the engine cold!). with the engine cold the t-stat should be closed, so all you have to do to test it is look at it. if it's open at all then it is not working properly as it should be closed at room temperature. the tstat remains closed until the engine warms to whatever temperature the t-stat is rated for, then the t-stat opens to cool the motor. if it's constantly open (or you don't have a tstat at all) then the coolant keeps flowing and the engine never really gets hot, neither does the coolant, neither does the heat and neither do you. so if you take it out and it's open, it's causing your no heat problem. you can also plop it in a pot of water on the stove and heat it up to see if it opens all the way up at it's rated temp. but if yours is stuck open then you don't need to do that. if the t-stat appears fine then youll want to pull both heater core hoses and run a garden hose through one side to blow out any trash accumulated in the lines to/through the heater core.

i've run multiple XT6's without O2 sensors and the CEL light does not come on and the car drives very well. gas mileage will dip some, but otherwise they run well without it. i don't see an issue here. if you suspect the water temp sensor (and it can cause an issue without the CEL coming on, though it typically will). it is highly unlikey the water temp sensor itself is the cause. more than likely it's the connection, dirty wires, corroded harness, etc. the sensors rarely go bad. replacing it with a new one will likely fix the connections temporarily as the contacts on the sensor will be clean but those in the harness will still be dirty and the problem usually returns in a couple months. very annoying. check this thread, i came up with a permanent fix for the water temperature sensor problem, one of the best MODs i've done. excellent pain in the rump roast relief to ease of mod ratio. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=27923

(hey john, didn't know you thumbed around here) is it the head or exhaust manifold that is cracked? i guess the head since yo'ure suggesting the head may need replaced. if you could take a picture of it, i would bet it's fixable. even if you had to have a shop (a machine shop for instance) weld the head and retap it for a bolt that would only cost 200 dollars or something. i wouldn't believe someone if they told me it wasn't fixable, i'd have to see it myself to believe that. particularly if the car is running fine right now, no way. look up "machine shop" on yahoo yellow pages in your area and call around. find one willing to look and they'll fix it for cheap (relatively cheap that is). if he suggests you need a new head i'd keep him away from my car, he's probably already tanked something on it. sorry, i've been cheated myself back in the day. i trust few mechanics. if you get a picture of it, email or PM me as i'll probalby miss your replies.

i actually duplicated each gasket after i trimmed them up so i have exact matching gaskets for the future, just in case. i did cut some of my own gsakets for the water coolant passages.

i always do this since i only know one thing really well and not much about others - but in the XT6 FSM - the TPS testing procedures are dead wrong, not even close. no XT6 TPS will ever test within the specs of the factory service manual. if they do, then it's not working right!! so if they share TPS or are similar in that regards you may run into issues trying to match the FSM specs. again, XT6 related so it may not help you at all.

it's also possible that one of your radiator caps is bad, but it sounds like you've tracked the problem down a bit so that's not likely. also - when it starts getting hot, are the fans turning on?

fix this now or you won't be driving an XT6 very long. you are currently damaging seals and gaskets by continuing to drive it this way and eventually you'll blow a headgasket. it doesn't take much on 15 year old gaskets. i currently own 8 XT6's and have owned other through the past 10 years, trust me on this one - there are no aftermarket radiators for the XT6. don't bother looking and don't write me back telling me you found one. yes you will find shops and people that tell you they found one, but it's not. some places incorrectly list the XT (4cylinder) radiator as a replacement for the XT6. the only source for an XT6 radiator is Subaru or a used one. the cheapest you will get one for is 300 if you look around or talk them down at the dealer. on a side note - a 4 cylinder XT radiator, while smaller, will work on the XT6 and can be found for less than half that price. i've never used one, but i did install one a long time ago (and then removed it and returned it before i even put antifreeze in it) and i know one person that has been running one for a year or two in Hawaii with no problems even with the a/c on. i wouldn't do it on my XT6, but it's far better than running your car hot with a faulty radiator. go fix this now unless you want to start looking for another motor or XT6. i told someone last year to get an XT radiator because they didn't want to spend the $ for an XT6 radiator and kept driving around overheating. ended up blowing a headgasket and both heads were ruined as well. (actually i now have their heads to practice porting on). it is not a direct fit radiator, takes a little bit of tweaking to work. it was like 8 years ago so i don't recall what it took, but it wasn't that much to get it to work. if you have an automatic just get a manual trans radiator and install an aftermarket trans cooler while you're at it. they are only 30 bucks.

here's a little write up i did to show what i do to my air suspension to keep it living longer...or the struts anyway. i bought my xt6 a little over 4 years ago at 105,000 miles and it now has 220,000. i have never replaced the air struts, just keep them maintained to prevent air bag deterioration. the bag itself appears in good shape, doesn't look to be near the end of service life. http://www.xt6.net/forum/viewtopic.php?t=4173 i highly recommend this and replacing every oring in your air suspension system if you like trouble free operations.

my pictures are too large (659 instead of 640....grrrr....) and i can't edit them on this computer. you can go here to see pictures: http://www.xt6.net/forum/viewtopic.php?t=4169

in case anyone wanted to see some work i'm doing to my XT6 i figured i'd post here. i posted all this and more at xt6.net for those that don't want to sift through this twice. the heads can definitely use some work so i smoothed all the intake ports out. removed casting flash (plenty of that) and made them slightly larger. i have installed plenty of heads in XT6 motors and until now never noticed how much the intake gaskets protruded into the intake ports of the heads. i ported the intake manifold, fuel injector manifold and intake ports to the heads. i also matched the gaskets at each mating surface in these areas as well. delta cams, custom header, high flow converter, larger exhaust, dynomax muffler, custom intake, aluminum crank pulley.

a generic timing belt change won't require any messing with the timing. by "timing set right" you're refering to the distributor timing. changing the timing belts, while timing related refers to the cams and crank being timed, not the distributor firing timing. they are related (timing belt drives the dist) but not the same. i never time cars after installing timing belts, there's no need to. if the timing belt wasn't installed properly it would run very bad, if at all. does he know subaru's? typical mistake is to not rotate the crank after installing the first belt, in order to install the second cam 180 degrees off from the first cam. mechanics will sometimes install both belts at the same time without rotating the crank and that's a no no - car will run horrible.

never worked on anything but XT's and XT6's but replacing a radiator is about as easy of a job as you can get. people probably aren't replying because a radiator is so easy to do that's it's kind of an odd request. typically - remove the electric fans (if equipped?). they are easy, typically 3 or 4 10mm bolts at each corner. remove them. unplug the electrical connections to the fans. if they are rusty they will break off, just use another bolt when you reinstall. no big deal. remove the clamps/hoses. there are two. screwdriver or socket will typically do the trick. probably a good idea to replace the hoses and clamps while you're in there and have them off, partiicularly if it's the stock nasty clamps. the ones i've worked on only had two bolts holding the radiator in. the heads of these bolts are facing straight ahead, like the lights. they are parallel to the ground. remove those two bolts. the radiator pulls out, just sits on pegs on the bottom. sometimes there's a vertical bolt in the top crossmember above the radiator that will prevent the radiator from coming out, it sort of catches. just loosen that bolt enough for the radiator lip to pass by it as you pull it out. like i said i don't know a dl wagon at all, so it could be slightly different. but what i do know is that it's easy and very simple and straight forward to figure out. see what's holding it in place and go to town. be ready to have coolant all over the place. there's drain at the bottom passengers side tyipcallly. turn it and place the hose ina bucket if you'd like to drain before having lots of spillage from the hoses and radiator.

i've shipped a few and i thought they were around 40, but that was awhile ago.

has anyone ever done this before? i know of one reliabe person that said he used a grease needle from a tractor store to successfully regrease his bearings. i picked one up last week and tried it on mine - no luck. only thing i got was a bent needle trying to figure out how to slide the needle in. it's too tight for the needle to fit.....anyone? i'm diggin through old posts but not getting much from it.

the top hat is small enough that you can locate one nationally for cheap and have it shipped to you from any yard in the US. i would definitely be very careful around that spring and try to compress it before unloading that wheel in anyway. autozone will loan you a spring compressor for free, have to pay a fee and then you get that back when you return their tool.

if you're going to do a rebuild, definitely keep us updated at http://www.xt6.net, i'd like to see how it goes for you.

rear diff = super simple in most soobs that i've seen. a couple bolts and the things come down. axles slide off using a punch for the rear axle pins. knock those two pins out and a couple mounting bolts and a couple driveshaft bolts and put in a new one. i'd price some used ones. the newer roos might be slightly different, but it won't be hard.

can be found very cheap....but typically run 750-1,500 in average condition. i'd look for one with some maintenance records unless you want to mess with water pump, oil pump and timing belts yourself. go to http://www.xt6.net there are typically some for sale there and lots of information.

check out http://www.xt6.net if you have XT6 specific questions. there are many XT6 owners here, but that site is probably a little more active in terms of XT6 feedback. though if you want block specifics here is the place to be as well since the EA82 uses the same internals. ticking is not a big deal, does not require a rebuild. usually requires 20 dollars or less worth of seals. but a rebuild is a nice option if you want to. there is NO aftermarket support for the XT6. no turbo kits, nothing. it can be done, all custom. be ready for alot of work or finding someone else to do it for you. there is currently one known turbo XT6 running in the US right now that i know of. all custom. many turbo's will work since it's custom.

you don't have to pull the engine to pull the oil pan, but it is sligtly annoying and will require unbolting motor mounts and trans mounts and tilting/lifting hte block up off the cross memeber some to get the baffles in the pump to clear the sump inside of it. as far as your TOD. do all the lifters seem to be making noise? if the noise is located at only one cylinder or two, then it's likely just a dirty HLA (lifter) that is causing the noise. enough oil changes and MMO/Seafoam or ATF (i'd recommend ATF/seafoam for quicker results) and it may go away. and that's why resealing the oil pump wouldn't help - because the HLA's were dirty before you changed the oil pump seals and afterwards they were still dirty. but - it could still be oil pump related. did you apply sealant between the oil pump housing and engine block mating surfaces? there are two areas at noon and 6pm on the rotor housing on the engine block that are supposed to receive dabs of anaerobic sealant. i have heard of one instance where someone resealed their pump and didn't do this step. they went back in and did this step and no more ticking. there's a chance that's not what solved their ticking problem, but it did go away after they did it again with the sealant. maybe the oil pump and/or rotor should be replaced. you could mic it or just replace it, though that is expensive. at 140,000 city miles the oil pump could easily be in need of replacement. i would personally try adding 2 quarts of ATF with 3 quarts of oil and drive it for a couple days and drain and refill. then do it again if it doesn't go away. but do that at your own risk, i'm not responsible for anything. i've done this before but don't want anyone telling me it blew their car up. i would also concentrate on narrowing this down to an engine wide problem or just one cylinder, two or three or all of them.....narrowing it down will help narrow down the actual cause.